It's just a concept right now but I wanted others to see that the scale doesnt quite match. Right now its just stacked on there and neck is a little too long.
By Troy
— Last update
Discover more robots
Jstarne1's Easy Led Visual Test For Digital Ports Tutorial J...
Test H-bridge ports using a servo connector: cut the red wire, use white as + and the short lead to ground to watch...
Jeremie's Beastly The Drifting Robot
Beastly drifting robot with mecanum wheels for sliding & strafing, built with EZB hardware & controlled via...
Ezang's ARC - A Short Video - My Tank Base Robot - DC...
Synthiam ARC controls a tank chassis with EZB IO Tiny and L298 H-Bridge PWM, with wiring and settings for forward,...
I found the stock motors are 3 volt mabuchi RE-140 dc brushed motors. I bought a couple to repair my left claw because the motors were badly corroded and locked up. On eBay many auctions just call them 3 -6v dc hobby motors.
the RK-370CC has more then double the torque of the SA-260 and same size also only problem it runs at 12 volts
also FC-260SA is shorter the SA-260 with double the TORQUE and 3 volts to 6 volts
12v isnt a problem. I will run 12VDC motors on it anways.
Yea that's the great.thing about own , use 12v for more torque and own to control power / speed
Im still waiting on my fuse block to arrive. I will use mini blade fuses and also use the drawer as the battery/fuse box.
Ash , I'm using round glass fuses , its easier to tell when they blow / and test , I think my block from radioshack is 30 amp per fuse and 6 fuse lanes.
I found the fuse box at a good price and now is on its way. www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=17138
Cool! Mine has 6 as well. There was a version that had a tiny led showing power running through it but I figured it was a waste of power since I could tell right away which was blown by what wasnt working.