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Now that I have finished B.O.B., my get your feet wet bot, I have begun my next hack. This next robot will bridge the gap between Bob and my ultimate big robot. I am starting with a remote controlled B9 toy from Trendmasters. It was very limited in what it did, and the drive section was pathetic, but it was B9!
Before Pics:
Here is what B9 looks like now:
I have mounted clear LEDs in the appropriate colors in the chest at the bottom of the decal and have a flashing circuit that will blink them in the combination as seen on the series. Where the two large round circles are (white domes on the big guy) I will have my ping sensor. I have mounted pager motors in the antenna housings to turn the "sensors" as seen in the TV version. I have mounted red El Wire to his voice plate to emulate the original as well. I have also mounted a series of blinking LEDs to the "brain" section in the bubble.
Next is to work on the rotation of the bubble and torso, articulate the arms and claws, and make a real functioning tread section. For the tread section I am adapting the base from my RAD robot. I will keep you posted with pics as I proceed.
Thanks,
Bret
Other robots from Synthiam community
Mickey666maus's Cycloidal Reducer 40:1
Jeremie's Fridgebot
I would suggest doing what ww321q said and clear coat it.
Do a test first cause it could cause the paint to look grey instead of silver
Do I need to sand it prior to applying the clear coat?
Depends on the brand of paint but as a general rule yes. Just sand it with 1000 or 2000 grit sand paper after curing for about a week. If it was automotive paint with hardener you wouldn't need it to cure so long.
I actually used Testors model paint as I was going on plastic.
The only reason to sand before clearcoating is to remove orange peel. That is a slight wavy texture in most automotive paint jobs. If you sand before you clear that silver will loose all its luster. If you wants heavy duty protection I've used clear epoxy with excellent success of spray painted surfaces and it added depth to the finish as well. Clear epoxy is the same as used on carbon fiber parts. Epoxy is very hard and scratch resistant more than plastic and can be buffed if you ever do actually manage to scratch it.
. Spray a random object with that silver then give a light even coat if epoxy and that will tell you how nice it would look
Started working on the leg section today. Where the torso attaches it needs to rotate so I purchased a 6" lazy susan bearing but needed to modify it.
First I cut it down to fit the torso base.-634702601116718750.jpg)
Here it is trimmed up to fit the leg section - it will be mounted under rather on top.-634702602252031250.jpg)
Now the torso base fits it well.-634702602851875000.jpg)
And there is a perfect mounting place in the leg section for the servo that rotates the torso.Oh wow! Almost like it was made for it.