I have decided to start my InMoov project. I think I will call him Spock out of respect to Leonard Nimoy who passed away on the day that I started this project.
I am editing this post so as not to confuse people with the current configuration. I continue to update this post with the latest photos. If you are reading this for the first time, don't be confused. There have been a lot of changes to the InMoov over the past couple of years including starting over.
https://synthiam.com/Community/Questions/7398&page=21 Post 203 starts the rebuild of the InMoov.
I have decided to use an onboard computer. I chose the Latte Panda due to it having an onboard arduino Leonardo and also because it uses little power.
I used 2 EZ-B controllers connected via the camera port to Adafruit FTDI friend boards. This allows the Latte Panda to have a non-wifi dependent connection to the EZ-B's. I use a powered USB hub connected to the USB3 port on the Latte Panda to attach other items.
The Omron HVC-P is used to identify people, emotions, human bodies, hands, age and gender. It is attached to the Latte Panda via an FTDI friend which is then connected to the powered USB hub. It is mounted in the chest of the InMoov. I also use a 3 element microphone which is a MXL AC-404 microphone. It is disassembled and the board and microphone elements are mounted in the chest of the InMoov. This mic board is connected to the Latte Panda via a usb cable which is attached to the powered USB hub. There is a USB camera in the eye of the InMoov which is connected to the Latte Panda via the powered USB hub.
I chose to use the Flexy hand with the InMoov. The design is far more rugged than the original hand and works very well. There are 4 EZ-Robot Micro Servos in the palm of each hand which controls the main fingers. The thumb is controlled by an EZ-Robot HD servo. The wrist waves and uses an EZ-Robot HD servo to do this motion. I use the standard Rotational wrist.
I have castle BEC's for power in the following locations set to the following voltages. Forearm's - 6.2 V - Controls fingers, wrist and elbows Custom power distribution board (2) set to 6.2 V controlling head, neck and Shoulder servos. EZ-B's - set to 6.1 V - it is mounted in the controller mounting plate and connects to the EZ-B fused power boards from a power base. Latte Panda - Set to 5.1 V and is mounted to the EZ-B controller mounting plate. Waist - set to 6.2 V and is mounted in the lower right side of the back. This provides power to the lean and pivot waist motors..
There are some custom power and signal distribution boards. These are in the forearms, lower back and in the upper back. The upper back or main board connects to these distribution points via USB cables to provide signal to the other boards for servos. The main board also has servo connector pins that are for the neck, head and shoulders. This allows the power to be distributed between multiple BEC's and also allows the servo signal cables to be shorter and more protected via the USB cables.
For power I use a LiFePo4 battery that is rated at 30 amps. It has the balanced charging circuit built into the battery and also has a low voltage shutoff built into the battery. This protects the battery and allows the battery to be charged with standard car chargers.
I put switches on the back on the InMoov which are rated at 20 amps at 12 volts. These are rocker switches that allow the user to pretty much slap the switch to turn it off. There are two of these switches. The servos for the elbows and fingers are on one switch. The latte panda, neck, shoulders, EZ-B's, waist motors and some lighting is on the other switch.
I also added a fuse block. This allows 20 amp fuses to be put in line to help protect things. The switches above drive the fuses for each of of the motors listed in that section.
Other robots from Synthiam community

Danbachmann's Dandroid 20Xx

Jamerperson's BRAD (My First EZB Robot)

I was running to the store and saw a tall swivel chair on the side of the road. I stopped and picked it up and now Spock has a stand. In putting him on the stand I broke his right arm. Oh well, it is worth it to have a free stand for him. I will fix the arm tomorrow.
Working on a support piece for the wave wrist servo instead of depending on epoxy to join the two servos.
One servo on the right shoulder isn't working Another servo on the right shoulder has limited movement.
This is all that is left to complete Spock from a functional perspective. Still need to wrap wires and get the back all closed up but I don't want to do that until the shoulder servos are working properly. Also need to put on a few covers but that hardly counts.
After all of this is complete, I will do some touch-up paint and call it good for the show. I should have time to do the programming on him. Hopefully I will be able to complete almost all of this today.
I hope he gets his hair? LOL
Ready to start programming him all up I think. Need to go through a test of him before I get too crazy. The back is still open.
very very nice work.love it.
What a great job, I'll be very popular at the show.
Got him closed up. I need to still do something with wires under the arms but have some side work that I have to get finished up pretty quick. Tomorrow I start programming I think. Fingers crossed that closing up everything didn't have any unintended consequences.
Awesome looking robot David. Spock looks great.
Just a thought don't mean to hijack your thread, but I would run all your arm wires like in the picture there is a square groove where the servos fit onto. you can put the wires through Making it look a little cleaner.
The Single servo wire coming from the shoulder servo to the shoulder itself is for the rotation up and down. The servo wires for the shoulder servo the wires come up between the piston in the shoulder itself and the pot as you can see in the picture.
I believe it would look better than what you have and give spot the justice he deserves he really looks great!
Cheers