Project Gizmo Underway!

Robotz012248

USA

Thought I'd post some pics of Gizmo. Thanks to a great friend that has been helping me Project Gizmo is under way! I'm going to document the build for any one that may be interested. The infamous "kitty Igloo" is now becoming Gizmo! As shown in the pics the motors are mounted along with the casters. The four threaded rods are going to support the decks. There will be aluminum spacers between each deck. Parts are on the way. I'm still in the design stage of my robotic arm. I may have to settle for mechanical aids to help replace my left hand. It is so frustrating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I've been looking at parts from servo City that look promising for the arm. However budget problems may not allow. Lloyd User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

By — Last update

ARC Pro

Upgrade to ARC Pro

Stay at the forefront of robot programming innovation with ARC Pro, ensuring your robot is always equipped with the latest advancements.

#1  

That's looking great!!!!

how did you make your scooter mounts?

I need to make mine. I dnt have access to welding material or heavy machines. Any suggestions?

#2  

Scooter mounts??????????? I'm guessing you mean the motor mounts. Fortunately my friend has a very well equipd ped workshop. The mounts are 3/32 thick aluminnum simply bent to a right angle an hole drilled for bolts. The casters are from Harbor Frieght. I used alum tube for spachers and bolted through. If you have a vice you might be able to bend some alum.

#4  

Aluminum is a nice way to go, I wish I had access to cut it . I dnt know what else to use for a weight of 120lbs

#5  

I'm guessing you are saying your chassis is 120lbs? A pic is worth a 1000 words.

#6  

@Robotz012248 your bot is really looking good.

@GotRobbed Aluminum, depending on thickness, isn't difficult to cut with basic tools. You can cut it using a hacksaw or an inexpensive jig saw with a metal cutting blade. If you take your time, you can even cut it with woodworking saws (I'd just use older blades) like a circular saw, table saw or even a band saw. I accidentally sawed through a 3/4" aluminum bolt once with my Dewalt circular saw.

#7  

That is really looking great! Looking forward to tracking your work in this....what an original idea!

#8  

Neato! I see a rising Trend in "Larger Robots!",,,,Me-Likey!!!!

#9  

When cutting aluminum the material will get stuck in the teeth of the blade making it hard to proceed.

Here is a tip: before starting take a candle and rub it on the teeth of the blade. Then, every so often, stop cutting and apply more wax to the blade. The wax lubricates the blade and makes cutting a little easier. It also keeps the aluminum from sticking in the teeth.

Remember be careful and take it slow.....

#10  

You can also use a bar of soap to lubricate the blade if you don't have any wax around the house.

#11  

This is the "neck collar". It is a PVC, 2 inch to 3 inch flange adapter that will set on top of the 2 inch diameter, PVC pipe that will support the head. User-inserted image

In the next picture you can see the 3/4 inch L brackets. User-inserted image

Here you can see how I attached the Base Rotate unit from Lynxmotion to the flange.

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

The main part of the head assembly is a 6"x3"x2" project box from Radio Shack. The two flashlights from Harbor Freight will be the "eye housing" User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

I drilled holes in the side of the project box and placed two screws to attach each flashlight. I also drilled a hole for the "Eye" wiring to pass through. The first screw was placed into the flashlights switch, giving me a flat surface to mate the flashlight to. User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

Here you can see the top plate of the Pan/Tilt unit from Lynxmotion. User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

Next came the camera. I just removed the clip on attachment , then made a small mounting plate from plastic sheet from Evergreen. I drilled a hole and finished mounting with a bolt and nut. User-inserted image

User-inserted image

I'm waiting on some LED's for the eyes.When I get them I can proceed with the wiring. More to follow.

#12  

That's going to be awsome! Good looking head you got going there. Neat idea using the flashlights. Whenever I go to stores I'm always looking for ideas for robot body parts. I see the possibilities in all kinds of everyday objects. I think you're doing great!

What is the part number for the pan/tilt you are using?

#13  

@rgordon: I used the servo City DDT500 direct drivetilt mount. I'm very pleased with it. It is a very solid unit and has a nice large mounting plate.

#15  

I reworked the head because it made it to high and a bit unstable. It moves much smoother now. I have the "Eyes" hooked up now. Will be posting some videos sometime in the near future. Also added a pic of the paint job on the body shell. I'm not sure I like it. I may be adding to it. User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

#17  

Thanks bret, I'm trying.........................

#18  

Can't wait to see it all together as a robot. Good Job Lloyd !:) JW

Spain
#19  

Fantastic work, the head seems to come out of a factory in series of robots, and the wheel motors are powerful, who have told the manufacturer of those yellow headlights end up in the heads of our robots! :)

#20  

@ R2D2: They are just $3.00 flashlites from Harbor Freight! Paired with a Radio Shack project box. I like to keep things as simple as possible.

United Kingdom
#21  

Hi Robotz012248

Simple things put together in just the right way to be totaly awsome , Nice work.

Steve_c

#23  

@Robotz012248,

I would like to see more Close Ups of the swivel-tilt assembly. Maybe a brief discription of where you got the parts. That seems to be the area that I have more problems with. It always goes slanted on me instead of square and smooth.

thanks,

P.s. That is a mighty fine job!

Mel

#24  

@ Mel:

Here are some more detailed pics of Gizmos head assembly. User-inserted image

I used one of servo City's "Servo Blocks" , part# SB608SH, with a Hitec servo ($24.99). I began by mounting the servo block frame to a piece of plexiglass cut to the top diameter of a 3 inch to 2 inch PVC flange. User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

I then recessed the plexi / servo frame into the flange and used a straight edge to line up the upper mounts flush with the top of the PVC flange. User-inserted image

I cut another piece of plexi to cover the top of the PVC flange and drilled holes for the top mounting frames and a hole for the servo shaft, then screwed it all in place. User-inserted image

Next I mounted the "bottom" mount of the servo City Pan/Tilt (part# DDT500) and fastened it in place with small bolts and nuts.

User-inserted image

Then I finished the assembly of the pan/tilt. The "upper" pan/tilt mount was then screwed to the bottom of the Radio Shack project box. So, there ya have it. I found that the servo City "Servo Blocks" are great! They make a very stable servo mounting. All of the side loading is placed on the servo block frame and the mounting hub. I broke out mycamcorder yesterday and am going to try to make a video of Giz's head. Hope this helps you out. Lloyd

#25  

Very nice!

#28  

Do you have a drawing of how this all fits together , its really cool. Am I guessing right that the trash can openning will have the head in it with camera?

#29  

@ jstarne1 : Go back into my eariler post and check the pics and description for details.

#30  

I have to say Lloyd, your work looks really professional. Did you do machine work in the past?

#31  

I was just thinking the same thing when I was look at this project of Lloyd's. Nice work Lloyd.