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This project has evolved some , the basic rundown is I'm modding two Omnibots , one a regular the other a larger 2000 model. I will have two ezb kits , rad base idea was thrown out because of so much noise but could go back on the table if the omnibot drivetrain is too weak to pull it.
By jstarne1
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turnigy lithium ion i use alot great batteries,just design a charger for it and one one gel cell rare at up to 50 amp charging and up to 24 volts ,both charging rate and voltage can be set,getting the boards in 2 weeks i like sending my boards out to be made,kinda hard at more and there different ways to do it,but most take time and now good as pcb company does it
you you need the circuit for yours can post it,do need to recheck it with the pcb i will get
jstarne nice job so far
Ok here is the 10th amp motor controller , I put heatsinks on all four chips.from radioshack. This was 6 dollars retail. I just don't want these guys running hot under my boys "heavy" load. When I perform first tests after wiring I will only have one battery in the torso which.will reduce load by 6 pounds and no arms , about 3 less pounds too.
@jstarne mine is much smaller, but still very close to it,running with 20 amp load on mine the mosfets get only warm ,at 40 amp and higher they need a heatsink,looking to get my board in soon to post so far your project looking really good
also noticed they using 2 h-bridge driver ,mine is one full bridge chip and h-bridge are rated up to 180 amp and higher peak using 8 mosfets,mostly made it for very high current wheelchair motors IRF3205 mosfet are rated at 110 amps each and in parallel and quad so looking at 440 amps total each side if using only 4 mosfets looking at 40 amps at 220 amp each side maybe 90 amps peak
Ok today I got a sliver of metal in my eye , oh the sacrifices we make for the robot. I was wearing nice safety glasses too. So I started mounting ultrasonic stair sensors in the base. I want to bring realism to the bot and more than.the toy it was meant to be. The shoulder and neck segments are ment to mimic rubber dust boots on industrial bots. So I found some rubber tooldip to coat the neck and shoulder to make them look new yet still be flexible. More flexible than paint.
Before
First coat of tool dip...
After 4th light coat it is literally starting to look like a genuine rubber boot. I believe I will spray another 2 or 3 coats on inside and outside for durability. Agian this is literally rubber so it remains flexible.I found this while in radioshack getting 5v regular low Mcd blue LEDs for eyes or indicators. I'm still thinking about using a multicolor .) Thanks for planting that idea Brett , lol my budget just went a tiny bit higher lol. It's a passive infrared sensor. Package says its sensativity is adjustable from 15 ft to 30ft+ it was just 9 dollars so I picked it up. Any ideas where I should / could mount it? I saw others use it to trigger thirty bot to "look" in that direction if it sees motion. Ideas for its use are appreciated.
looks good so far,i got a tiny spec in my once once,like the smoothie drink you made,i make one aday very heathly,have 2 special machines for them ,plus i am baker well leaving on my work trip to CHINA ,i got a new handheld digital/analog o-scope given to me by work to keep and use on my trip,cant wait to use it @JSTARNE have you look at my ROVER project on the really good PIR detectors ,very very small for $15,many different types digital and analog output,just drill a small hole
second item whats the name of the developer cleaner and whitener you used (make of it) look on sally's and they have too many and dont wont the wrong one
@jstarne1 - I have the same sensor haha. I am going to use it as part of my intruder alert system. For something like that, a good place might be the top center of his head. I guess it kind of depends what you want to do with it. You could put it on the front chest somewhere so when someone walks by he says something or acts out a script you have written. HMMMM - ideas, ideas.