My Project Jarvis


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I know I should finish Melvin before starting a new build but Josh's Jarvis has inspired me to give my JARVIS a physical form.

Some already are aware that I already have a JARVIS like system installed in my whole house which carries out a multitude of tasks from being an automatic PVR (like Tivo but better), controlling the heating and hot water system, controlling lights... too much to list really but one day I will attempt it.

Anyway, since it doesn't currently use ARC or an EZ-B I haven't posted much about it on here, but that's changing for 2 reasons...

1. To inspire you guys to open a can of awesomeness and
2. Because finally JARVIS will become a real robot rocking an EZ-B.

Basing the design around a RAD V1 robot

So far all I've done to the RAD is stripped it down - why they soldered every connection is beyond me!..

A lot of the choices I make on this project will be chosen by JARVIS. I will be adding some scripting so that I can ask him things like "What colour do you want to be?" and he will choose... this should make it interesting:D

Like I said, his brain is existing and has been for around 2 years, with new features being added all the time. You know what, let JARVIS tell you himself a little bit about him:D

For more, check out Jarvis Youtube Channel or (under construction)

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Thanks irobot, that's the plan:) Hopefully if I can inspire people to play and build then we will end up with a massive library of robots. Plus this one is really to get me back into 3D cad and brush off my cobwebs. One small problem though is I screwed up with the diameter and it's twice the size it needs to me... nothing a little scaling wont fix though.

He picked white by the way, which is a little bland but never mind. If that's what he wants that's what he will get:)
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@robotmaker You fail to understand the part where I said this is to dust off the cobwebs and get me back in to 3D CAD. Nobody has said they also want to make one, if they do I will be hosting the files on some of my webspace so that they can alter and resize as necessary.

The instructables ones are very poor and not anywhere near what I want. Plus the size of it needs to be pretty much spot on and so far nobody has made one that's the right size.

Time to check that box in settings again;)
Are you going to wrap the sections with solid core magnet wire for "authenticity" ?
@winstn @rich - I heard makibox Was bringing a machine for display. If they do I will see if they don't mind doing a demo for us. I get to go to a pre-show party the night before and hang out with venders without outside spectators there. So if they come I will talk to them.
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They will be wrapped with copper wire stripped out of 6491X pvc covered copper cable. Weather it'll be one continuous wrap per block or a bunch of strips just stuck on is undecided and will come down to what modifications I'll need to make in order to wrap them.

I was tempted to get the finned lower section made from aluminium too, but that's going to be inside the robot and barely seen so spraying a nylon printed part should look OK.

I can't find any palladium to use in it, no hardware stores stock it:D
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Decided to make the project public on the cloud:)

Haven't done anything on it for a few days since I've been away but it may help people out.
White! Dang robots "seem" to have a mind of their own ;) Well, white IS a neutral color which other things/addons will def a bowl of icecream and strawberries on top!
THanks for some of the code ,will use it on my JARVIS design
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What was just going to be a very basic robot has evolved, I don't think I can do simple:)

Although to be honest, Jarvis has turned in to something of a test robot with the TellyMate and MMA (if I can ever get it working) lately. But further to that, he now sports a neat little current monitor.

More precisely an Adafruit INA169 breakout board which took away any complicated circuits, sourcing parts etc. and very easy to fit (fits inline with the power supply, V+ to the battery, V- to whatever you want to monitor - I chose just the H-Bridge, then Vout to ADC signal, VCC to ADC VCC and Ground to ADC ground). 1V = 1A so using the ADC value should be very simple and adding in a script to stop movement on high load current should be a piece of cake.

I'm waiting on more protoboard so I can knock up another voltage monitor circuit then I just need to fix them to the base and the lower portion is completed and ready to be painted.

Also, I have my I2C chip which should, if I have the circuit right, provide independent switching of 16 LEDs through the I2C bus. This is going in the head for the LEDs in there.

And lastly, another small protoboard to house 3 LEDs. One for a power indicator, one for a connection indicator and one for a fault indicator. I'll also be using the same proto board to provide a simple push switch circuit so a push to make switch will latch on with a single push and the same switch will also latch it off for a more professional feel.

It's getting there, while it may be slow it will get there in the end.
I am interested in seeing how this is going to turn out.
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A quick update on Jarvis is due:)

I now have the error checking set up with feedback through two LEDs that automatically turn on or off depending on the fault state. Faults so far are;
Low Battery
Disconnected Battery
Fault on Monitor Circuit
Over Current

This quick little video shows a demonstration of the connection status and the battery monitor since they were the easiest to emulate.

Basically, how it works is the LEDs are wired so that a Set(D8,On) command turns the blue LED on and red LED on, a Set(D8,Off) or disconnection turns the red LED on and blue LED off. This is achieved by connecting the Signal wire to the blue LED's anode and ground to the cathode and on the same port wiring the Signal wire to the red LEDs cathode and the VCC to the anode.

When the Signal goes high (or set to on) it becomes the VCC for the blue LED and current flows through the blue LED.
When the Signal goes low (or set to off) it becomes the ground for the red LED and current flows through the red LED.

When the EZ-B is disconnected all signal pins go low. A simple script sets the signal to high on connection. Additionally the Set(D8, Off) command has been added into the battery monitor script in all error checks and Set(D8, On) added to the portion of code which reports the voltages to the LCD display.
The current monitor works in a similar way.
Excellent job Rich. Thanks for sharing your progress. :)
Rich you are a power house of ideas. I will be using many of them in my build on Questor. Keep up the good work.
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Thanks :)

As always, here's the protoboard layout for the LED circuit. 3 pin header connects to EZ-B with jumpers (you could solder wires direct if you wanted).

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Throw a resistor between Vcc and an empty track (there are 2 there) and then another LED between that and ground and boom, you have a power indicator too.
How simple is that!:) Pure wizard idea! Richezmon itor! ...used by all..thanks for the generosity! .....A mere glance will indicate the power state....I am thinking a small buzzer for those who are not in the same room:)
I read all the way to the end?
What happened to Jarvis?
He has so much potential!
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This one was shelved, at least for the time being. It may make a come back if I get more time but other things have taken priority.

At least the physical robot is shelved. Jarvis still runs my house.