ok so E connects to the C wire. C is the negative. positive is ? seems similar to a motor controllor set up.

that thing with the hole in the end is the transistor which manages the power? or what purpose does it serve?(sorry. not good with electrical)

Quick and easy 7 step guide to wiring it up;

1. Snip off the female end of a servo extension
2. Solder the resistor to the base of the transistor (left hand pin)
3. Solder the white wire of a servo extension to the other side of the resistor
4. Solder the red wire of a servo extension to the positive of the LED or lamp holder
5. Solder the black wire of a servo extension to the Emitter of the transistor (right hand pin)
6. Solder a short piece of wire from the Collector of the transistor (middle pin)
7. Solder the other end of the wire to the negative/ground of the LED or lamp holder

Then just connect the servo extension on to a digital port of the EZB. For instance D0

Now, in ARC add a Set Digital control (add, digital, set digital), assign D0 in the config and click the button to turn on and off.

ok thanks.

found a skimatic to blinkM. seem simpler and offers a bit more but then i have to pay money which i used to buy the wall-e toy and ez-kit.

Do not use a resistor or transistor for an LED with the EZ-B.

If you are powering an LED, connect one wire to a EZ-B Digital port and connect the other to GND.

When you enable the port, the LED will glow. Use a Digital Control to turn ON and OFF the port that you connect the LED to.

LED's require the polarity to be correct. The longer wire of the LED is + and the short wire is -

You can also look inside the LED and notice the electrical connections. You can look and recognize which is - and which is +

not sure on the i2c clock and the i2c data.

ok thanks Dj i thought about that for a sec. For the blinkM though...

The BlinkM would need 4 wires soldered to it, the TIP transistor circuit needs 4 wires soldered.

BlinkM is great as you can change the colour of the LED, fade from one colour to another and a lot more but it costs more and is bigger. If your Wall-E is the same size as the one I have waiting to be hacked then there isn't much room in the eye. You could probably make it fit but it would be easier to make the TIP circuit.

I've been meaning to do a good tutorial for the TIP circuit for a while, if I get chance tomorrow (and if I can manage to de-solder one of the TIP transistors I soldered to a proto board which I never used in the end) I will knock one up.