
robohobo
hello all, im in the process of building my first ez robot and ive realized how much i truly have to learn at once. anyway when i ordered my rover 5 chassis (4 motor w/ encoders model) i opted to go with the dagu 4ch motor driver since it supported the encoders. i now realize that as a beginner wanting to jump in head first this wasnt the best idea. im fairly certain ive figured out how to correctly connect the driver to ez-b and both to my 6v sla power source, but if anyone has a diagram of how to do this properly i would feel more comfortable. my major problem is scripting a custom control panel to drive this thing. i have no clue what im doing and a push in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
maybe DJ will add this motor controller in a future update? as i understand it ez-robot works very closely with dagu and carrys the rover 5 in store so it seems likely. ill cross my fingers.
Did the speed control work? (i.e. the bit at the end of the code "when this baby hits 88mph..." part)? Or did it just go full speed for the 10 seconds at the end?
I just found the board for pretty cheap, I'm tempted to grab one because I can't see what's wrong. Checking the Armadillo code for it shows pretty much the same as what I first thought (PWM for speed, Set on or off for direction).
Are you 100% sure the signal connections from the EZB to the board are right?
Makes no difference if I order it today, tomorrow, Sunday or Monday due to Easter but if we have hit a wall I'll get one on order (I need something for a rover project anyway, this is as good as anything else I guess)
I'm not sure what to do, but I'd hate to have you base your purchase off of me needing help. I'm starting to think I should have just went with 2 l298s.
I need to get a H-Bridge for my next project which is to be 4wd so it's a good choice anyway. And since the next one will probably have a lot on show and exposed it needs to look good too. Plus it's cheaper than 2 of the other H-Bridges I was considering (but currently have issues with in my hearoid). So not totally basing it off you needing help (although the fact I've not beaten it yet is part of it).
Well in that case I'm glad to have someone so steadfast on the task. Id really rather not admit defeat either and buying another motor driver or 2 would postpone me getting other parts. As far as aesthetics goes, with some clean wireing it does look awesome, just wish I knew what it wanted from me lol
still havent got this figured out.
i was wondering if its possible that it wont funtion properly without the cur pin connected. i had them connected but i took them off since @rich indicated them as optional and i ran out of jumpers just short of having jumpers for the grounds on the CUR channels.
what else could it possibly be? a faulty controller? not enough power? (everything connected to single 6v. 4.5ah SLA battery)
any thoughts are appreciated.
I haven't forgotten this I just never got around to ordering the controller for one reason or another.
The CUR connections go to ADC ports so it shouldn't make a difference.
I've looked over the manual too many times now, it should be simple. PWM is easy (did the speed control at the end of the script I wrote give speed control? It should have slowly ramped up to top speed) Ground is easy DIR says it's either on or off for forwards or reverse. A set digital gives that on or off.
All I can think of trying now is to confirm the set digital does what I assume it does...
You could try pulling the jumper from DIR while it's spinning forwards to see if that changes direction. No signal is a digital low, which according to the manual sends it the other direction.
You could also, at your own risk - I do not suggest this, I shouldn't even post it but I will because we are hitting a wall... You could remove the jumper from the DIR pin and connect DIR to ground to see if that spins it the other way.
I have this setup working. I wired all four PWM channel inputs to a single PWM output on the EZ B board. Think of it as the gas pedal of a tank. Remember you need a ground wire to go with the PWM output.
Then wired two on the DIR pins together (i.e. CH 1 and 2 DIR inputs.) These are left side motors for me. I ran a ground for each of these as well.
Same thing with the other two DIR pins. (.i.e. CH 3 and 4 DIR inputs.) These are right side motors for me. I ran a ground for each of these as well.
Now you have your left and right levers controls of the tank.
A custom Movement Panel used to work nicely with this setup. There appears to be a bug in the latest code that prohibits the speed control of the custom Movement Panel from working correctly for me.
I initially controlled it with a Vertical servo (gas pedal) and two digital output controls (left and right tank levers). Push both levers forward (i.e. digital outputs on) and step on the gas (i.e. set the PWM to anything but 0). Away she goes.
To turn one lever forward (i.e. Digital output on) and the other lever backward (i.e. other Digital port off). To stop set PWM to 0 digital outputs won't matter. Easy to test operation. Enjoy.
I ignored the current outputs so far and I do not believe EZ B supports the encoders yet. I am hoping that will happen in a future release.
Is there any reason that it would work with the dir and Pwm tied together but not seperated? Controls sound like exactly what we tried except tied together as well. I hate giving up, but Im finding that I hate looking at my unborn robot more. My next step is to diagram my entire wireing scheme to confirm its all good and if it is, then I'm getting 2 l298s because I'm out of ideas. The money was supposed to go to servos but I'd rather be missing an arm than my legs and I bet my bot feels the same.