New Bot, Different From The Old Bot.


Skip to comments

So being the over-planning, over-thinking type that I am, I put off my RAD build until I can have it planned out how I want it.
Meanwhile I've decided to build an intermediate bot to test some ideas on and to hone my skills.
Like Junkbot, it's simple and uses simple materials.

I've started with a nice wooden box set from Ikea. I went with wood because it's easy to work with.
Next I added another great Princess auto find with two gear-motor-wheel's that are perfect.

Because the body is long and narrow, I wanted outrigger style front wheels to add stability. I finally found the perfect combination of hardware store parts to make that work.

I also wanted a front bumper to protect any sensors I put on the front and I found a great stainless steel drawer pull that (IMO) looks awesome too. Plus it makes a convenient carry handle.

Eventually, the bot will have a neck made out of a smaller matching box that came with the Ikea box set. On top of that will be the EZ-Robot camera for a head.

Here's the build so far.
User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

User-inserted image

By — Last update


Upgrade to ARC Pro

Your robot can be more than a simple automated machine with the power of ARC Pro!

where did you get those swivel wheels and how big are they? they look like something i could use for my M2D2 build.
Because I'm using a 12v gel cell for this bot, I'll have plenty of power so I wanted to power the EZ-Robot Camera from the battery as well. To do that I skipped building my own PSU as originally planned and bought a $9 cigarette lighter to USB power adapter capable of 1A output and gutted it. This way I can just plug it in without modding the camera or even cutting a USB cable.

I decided to do this because I felt too lazy to assemble a 7805 based PSU myself, but it ends up this is a much better choice (IMO) anyway. The USB adapter uses an MC34063A DC/DC Buck/Boost converter which is way more efficient, smaller, puts out less heat and has a higher current rating (1.5A). I'll be using this trick a lot in the future.

User-inserted image

User-inserted image
I got them at Home Depot. What's cool is that the mounting holes are spaced perfectly to fit the existing holes in those standard L brackets. No drilling required. I shopped all over until I found that combo.
I'll see if I can dig up the receipt and edit in the SKU's for you.
I'll put together a parts list, mostly for my own reference, and in case anyone is interested in any of the parts.

Chassis: Ikea FÖRHÖJA Box, set of 4, birch

Gear motors, with pressed on wheel and rubber traction ring:
Princess Auto: SKU: 8291700 (Note: these can be found at a LOT of suppliers under the original part number which is chm-2435-1r be careful though, may of them are the 24v version which may not suit your needs. The Princess Auto version is definitely 12v )

1-5/8" swivel casters - Home Depot

2" L brackets - Home Depot

6" Stainless Steel Drawer Pull - Home Depot

12v 5.0AH Gell Cel battery (Hopkins)
Princess Auto SKU: 8224834

3-in-1 USB Sync and Charge Cable With Car Charger
Princess Auto SKU: 8496002

Solarbotics L298 motor driver K_CMD
Sourced from Action Electronics as a kit
Great! Thanks. Be sure to check out the M2D2 build! im making credits when im finished. ill add you into the list.
Will do, thanks!
I think you are doing a great job. Not to knock anything down,but I want to know that I had built a test platform with exactly same motors with wheel. Identical...PROBLEM NO TRACTION. I hope you can overcome that...the rubber rings have no grip.

I've already tested the chassis and not had any traction issues.
However when i bought those gear motors I noticed that some of them had hardened O-rings so I picked through them to find two that were still fresh.