Darathian
Resolved by Dunning-Kruger!
Since I know some of you have used the Sabertooth and Kangaroo I figured I would ask opinions.
I have decided on the Parralax Arlo base for my next robot chassis. I will use the caster's from parralax.
I will most likely be using the Sabertooth and kangaroo combination for motor controller/PID but I am not decided on this and open to suggestions.
I also find myself in a heated mental debate between the wheel/motor combination from parralax or the Zagros Rex motors and wheels combined with the Sabertooth/Kangaroo.
Item 1:
One of the key items for me is how well the encoders between the two different motor/wheel sets works with the Sabertooth and kangaroo.
Item 2:
The other item floating in my mind is the ground clearance between the two motor/wheel sets. It seems at least to me that the Zagros wheels would provide more ground clearing but since the base plate of the chassis provides stability to the base platform I am not really sure if using the Zagros motors are feasible.
Item 3:
Since I am going to build a body, arms and head on top of the base the torque and weight carrying ability is important.
Item 4:
I need to be able to control both the position and speed of the motors at the same time. For example example I should be able to have to robot move lets say 1 feet at a certain speed.
I know this is kind of an open ended questions but if anyone have used any of these wheel/motor combinations please provide your 2 cents as it relates to the items listed above.
I appreciate any comments or insights you guys can provide.
the reason why i asked you to make a draw of what you have, is to help debug the issue, i think something (small detail) is missing or wrong, probably when you finish the draw, it will surface (hopefully
)
I found the issue. with flip flop, now reporting 19200 - 19225 /s range
Without flip flop reporting 38109 to 38250/s range.
It seems that one of my ground leads wasnt there which was tripping the reset pin on one side of the 4013.
Okay, happy and can proceed. I wasted all of about $7.43 buying the other chips but, I may use those anyway. I like overkill and the difference in the cost of the chips is very negligible. Also, these will function from 2v to 6v instead of 5v to 14v. This will make them more arduino compatible.
So, a 4013 works, with the wiring shown in the post on the previous page, with the capacitor and with the resisters as shown on the previous page. I will slap another one of these together and then have the boards made.
Thank you all for all of your help. I will post after these are back in the robot and I auto tune the Kangaroo.
Also, the issue with the roo is based on clicks per revolution and not clicks per second so I am now convinced it is a software issue and not an issue with the speed of the controller.
good, next !
one quick question where are you sourcing the components, i really miss a brick & mortar store for the emergencies. Every time i go to digikey, i need to make "business plan" to include all the components for stock, and next ideas... is not only money (shipping) you waste but also the opportunity (time) waiting...
I just ordered parts where I could find them for the prototype. I will have to find someone to get all of the parts from. I dont know how many would be ordered and may just go with a company that will manufacture the boards so I am not soldering each one.
I will do some research and let you know. Synergy is local here so I might go through them. Will just have to see.
This is where I bought the parts for this from 4013's from Jameco along with the dip sockets. resistors I used some that I had but ordered some from Mouser Caps I used some that I had but ordered some multi layer ones from Mouser The 74HS chip I ordered through DigiKey
I will find one place to get all of these from if I am going to have to hand solder them.
my has synergy changed since I was last in there LOL... At least what they sell on their website has changed a lot.
Okay, more research
I am seriously thinking about making these boards without the headers attached. This allows the person buying to then solder whatever type of headers they are using to this device. Because these boards could be used for many things, I wouldn't want to put on a header that would just need to be removed to match someones implementation of this board.
Do you see an issue with me not supplying headers?
it also cuts the cost of the board down by about 71%...
The first order will be 9600 of these. The sad thing is that this is the smallest quantity that I could make. 4 60"x 60" boards with these at 1x1.5" in size makes 2400 per board, with a 4 board minimum order... This is from a board manufacturer who has the highest ratings so they should be very high quality.
[edit] I misunderstood what they said. 60 Square inches not 60x60. This changes things up a lot.
The first order will be for 160 of these. That changes the pricing model a lot. [/edit]
I could also sell 2 boards attached together for use in differential type robots, or sell 2 boards together so that a 4x divider would be as simple as connecting a few holes...
Mouser looks like the place to go to get the quantity I would need for all of the components. That would sure leave a huge stock of these for Rafiki.
Those dang anti-static bags sure are not cheap...