Roli Rover H-Bridge Button Issue

Good info from Synthiam_Support - that matches what I suspected. Since S1 selects the H-bridge logic supply between the on-board regulated 5 V or the raw VCC, and you only ever want VCC for the rover, soldering a permanent jumper is a clean, robust fix. Below I’ll give a safe, conservative stepbystep procedure to identify the correct pads and create a permanent jumper, plus testing and cautions.

Important safety first

• Power OFF and remove the battery/motor power before doing any work.
• Work on a non-conductive surface and use basic ESD/antistatic care if available.
• If you’re not comfortable with a soldering iron and multimeter, I can help you describe the exact pads to a local electronics tech.

Quick links

• Roli Rover information: https://synthiam.com/Support/Hardware/Roli-Rover
• Dual H-Bridge w/PWM skill: https://synthiam.com/Support/Skills/Movement-Panels/Dual-HBridge-w-PWM?id=16067
• Dual H-Bridge (no PWM) skill: https://synthiam.com/Support/Skills/Movement-Panels/Dual-HBridge?id=16121

Plan overview

1. Identify which pad(s) on S1 connect to the board’s VCC (battery/motor supply) and which feed the H-bridge logic node.
2. Solder a small jumper so the H-bridge logic node is permanently connected to VCC (bypassing the switch).
3. Insulate and mechanically reinforce the jumper.
4. Test voltages with a multimeter, then test the movement in ARC.

Stepbystep (conservative method - no power while identifying)

1. Inspect the S1 pads: you already noted 4 pads in a rectangular layout. Typical S1 footprints are two diagonal pairs where each pair is one switch position.
2. With the battery removed, use a multimeter continuity/beep mode to find the VCC pad(s):
   • Find the board point that is definitely battery/motor positive (for example, the motor supply terminal, large capacitor positive, or the board’s input VIN pad). Probe that point with one meter lead.
   • Probe each of the four S1 pads with the other lead until you find which pad(s) have continuity to the battery positive test point. That pad is the VCC side of the selector.
3. Use the meter to find the H-bridge logic Vcc input pad:
   • Probe the H-bridge IC VCC pin (or the small decoupling capacitor near the H-bridge IC) and then each S1 pad to see which pad connects to the H-bridge logic node. (If you can’t easily reach the IC pin, locate a small capacitor/resistor marked near the IC Vcc and test that node.)
4. Confirm which S1 pad is the logic node and which is the VCC pad. You should have identified two distinct pads: the pad that was the H-bridge Vcc input, and the pad that connects to battery positive. These are the two points we want permanently connected.

Soldering the permanent jumper

1. Prepare: clean pads with isopropyl alcohol if needed, tin a tiny blob of solder on both identified pads.
2. Solder a short insulated wire (or a solder bridge) between the identified H-bridge Vcc pad and the battery VCC pad.
   • If using a bare solder bridge, be very careful to avoid bridging to neighboring traces. A short insulated wire is usually safer and stronger.
3. Add strain relief: route the wire with a small loop and secure it with hot glue so vibration/motor movement won’t pull the pad off.
4. Insulate: cover the joints with heatshrink tubing or hot glue to prevent shorts.

Verify before powering motors

1. Reconnect battery. Do NOT attach motors yet.
2. Measure the logic supply voltage at the H-bridge Vcc node and confirm it’s what you expect after the jumper (with support’s note, this should be VCC). If it looks abnormal (very high or very low), power off immediately and re-check connections.
3. Confirm no smoke/heat/odd smells from the board.

Test with ARC and Movement Panel

1. Start ARC and connect to the EZB.
2. Open the Movement Panel skill you use (Dual H-Bridge w/PWM or Dual H-Bridge). Click the kebab menu (three lines) Settings and verify the ports match your wiring.
3. For Dual H-Bridge w/PWM: raise PWM sliders from 0 (they default to 0).
4. Test Forward/Stop/Left/Right gently. If motors draw a lot of current, keep tests brief and watch for overheating.

Cautions & notes

• On many PCBs the regulated 5 V path is intended for logic when VCC is not suitable. Synthiam_Support advised always using VCC - that’s usually fine for Roli (they designed it that way). Still, verify the voltage you’re feeding the logic node is within expected range for the LM298 logic. If your battery voltage is much higher than expected logic rating, tell me the battery voltage and I’ll confirm.
• If S1 also controlled regulator selection or other safety functions (unlikely but possible), note that permanently selecting VCC bypasses the switch function - fine for most rover builds but be aware of that change.
• If the S1 pads or traces look torn/lifted, don’t solder directly to damaged copper. Tell me the damage and I’ll provide pad repair options (wire bridges to nearby test points, etc.).
• If you prefer a removable fix, you can solder wires from the two pads to an external panel toggle mounted on the rover chassis instead of a permanent jumper.

If you want, I can:

• Walk you through the multimeter checks live (tell me the continuity results and I’ll point which two pads to join).
• Provide a diagram of which pair to bridge if you can list what each pad continuity tested to (e.g., pad A battery +, pad B decoupling cap near IC, pad C nothing, pad D ground).
• Give a recommended small wire/gauge and show how to neatly hotglue the joint for longterm vibration resistance.

Which would you prefer: I guide you through the pad identification now (you can report continuity results), or do you want the straightforward solderjumper steps and a parts/tools checklist?

newer ones use a jumper .. and they cost $1.59 from ali. i think it's not worth soldering

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006089504572.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.4.3c512381BrhLNv&aem_p4p_detail=202603021658162259866329392100000342889&algo_pvid=5f150770-0f88-4054-9f6f-ec150de4462d&algo_exp_id=5f150770-0f88-4054-9f6f-ec150de4462d-3&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22860%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21CAD%216.11%211.59%21%21%2130.05%217.83%21%402101ee6617724994962602309e8f77%2112000046008730615%21sea%21CA%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3Af3f3b746%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000197831975&curPageLogUid=Pv1sWqUjkwxb&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005006089504572%7C_p_origin_prod%3A&search_p4p_id=202603021658162259866329392100000342889_1

Perfect - DJ_Sures’ note is a good, practical option: many newer Roli / H-bridge boards use a simple jumper you can buy cheaply. You have three realistic routes now:

• Fast + cheap: buy the inline jumper module (AliExpress / Amazon) and use it.
• Clean permanent: solder a short insulated jumper wire between VCC and the H-bridge logic pad (recommended if you want "set-and-forget").
• Removable + robust: solder thin wires to the two S1 pads, route them to a 2pin PCB header on the chassis, and use a jumper shunt (gives the best serviceability).

Below I’ve summarized each option, tools/parts, stepbystep, and safety checks. I’ll also include a short ARC startup script snippet to initialize movement PWM after repair.

Important safety check before any permanent jumper:

• Measure the voltage that will be fed to the H-bridge logic node (the pad you will connect). Confirm it’s within the H-bridge IC logic supply rating. If you aren’t sure what the measured voltage is, tell me the battery voltage and I’ll confirm the safe range. (Synthiam support said "you’d only ever want VCC" for Roli - that’s usually fine, but always verify.)

Links

• AliExpress DJ_Sures referenced (cheap jumper option): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006089504572.html
• Roli Rover info: https://synthiam.com/Support/Hardware/Roli-Rover
• Dual H-Bridge w/PWM skill: https://synthiam.com/Support/Skills/Movement-Panels/Dual-HBridge-w-PWM?id=16067

Option A - buy + use a tiny jumper module (fastest)

• What: small 2-pin header + jumper shunt (the AliExpress link).
• How: solder two thin wires from the two S1 pads to the 2-pin header (mounted on chassis or a small protoboard), place the jumper shunt to close the circuit.
• Pros: no SMD rework, removable, cheap.
• Cons: requires routing wires to a header (small mechanical work).

Option B - permanent solder jumper (cleanest & simplest) Tools/parts:

• Fine soldering iron (20-35W) with fine tip, flux, thin solder (0.5mm), fine insulated wire (26-30 AWG), multimeter, isopropyl alcohol, hot glue. Steps:

1. Power OFF and remove the battery and any external power. Work on a non-conductive surface.
2. Identify the two S1 pads to join (recommended conservative method below if you haven’t already identified them).
3. Clean pads with isopropyl alcohol. Tin each pad with a little solder.
4. Cut a short insulated jumper (5-10 mm bare ends) or use a small insulated wire. Solder between the two identified pads (or lay a small solder bridge if you are confident there’s clearance).
5. Add hot glue strain relief so wires/joint won’t flex under vibration.
6. Reconnect battery (no motors yet) and measure H-bridge logic voltage to verify expected voltage. If OK, add motors and test in ARC.

Option C - removable header + jumper shunt (recommended if you want serviceability) Tools/parts:

• Same as Option B + a small right-angle or straight 2pin header (male) and a jumper shunt.
  Steps:

1. Solder two thin, insulated wires to the two S1 pads. Route them to a 2pin header you mount on the chassis or small PCB. Secure wires with hot glue.
2. Use the jumper shunt to close the connection when you want the board powered. Remove Jumper to open.
3. Test voltages and ARC as below.

Conservative pad-identification (no guesswork)

1. With battery removed and board OFF, use continuity/beep mode on the DVM: find the board’s motor battery positive point (large + terminal or big electrolytic cap + lead). Probe each S1 pad - the VCC side will show continuity to battery +.
2. Probe the H-bridge’s logic Vcc node (small decoupling cap near the H-bridge IC or the IC’s Vcc pin) and each S1 pad - the pad showing continuity to the IC Vcc node is the H-bridge logic pad.
3. Those two identified points are the ones to join.

Soldering tips

• Use flux; tin pads first. Heat pad+wire briefly; apply solder to create a solid fillet.
• Keep solder time short to avoid lifting pads. Use small gauge wire and secure with hot glue.
• If a pad or trace is lifted/ruined, stop and tell me - I’ll give pad-repair options (wire to a nearby test point, or braid repair).

Post-repair verification (do these steps before connecting motors)

1. With battery connected (but motors not attached), measure the H-bridge logic supply voltage and confirm it’s expected.
2. Watch for any abnormal heating or smells - power off immediately if anything odd.
3. Connect EZB/ARC and test movement controls.

ARC Test & startup script

• Open your Movement Panel skill (Dual HBridge or Dual HBridge w/PWM). Ensure ports match the EZB wiring and, if using the PWM skill, raise the PWM sliders from zero.
• Use this quick Connection Established script to initialize movement speed (JavaScript):

// Initialize  Movement Panel speed on connection
Movement.setSpeed(255);
print("Movement speed initialized to 255");

Follow-up choices I can help with now

• I can pick a higherquality jumper/header part on Digi-Key or Mouser and give the exact part number.
• I can give you the exact stepbystep soldering procedure tailored to your tools (soldering iron only vs hot air).
• Walk you through the continuity checks live (you tell me continuity results and I’ll identify the two pads to join).
• Provide a simple wiring diagram for routing wires to a chassis-mounted 2pin header and shunt.

Which do you want next? If you want me to pick a specific Digi-Key/Mouser header or jumper part for you, tell me if you prefer fast shipping (Amazon/AliExpress) or quality/brand parts (DigiKey/Mouser) and I’ll post direct links and datasheets.

@DJ

thank you for the link .

You’re welcome - glad that link helped!

Do you want me to do any of the following next? Pick one or more:

• Pick an exact jumper/header part from Digi-Key or Mouser (brand/fast-shipping preference), and post a direct link + datasheet.
• Give a step-by-step soldered-permanent-jumper guide (conservative continuity checks first) tailored to whether you have only a soldering iron or a hot-air station.
• Walk you through the safe pad-identification with a multimeter (you report continuity results and I’ll tell you exactly which two pads to join).
• Show how to wire a removable 2pin header + shunt (best serviceability).
• Provide the ARC test/startup script and movement checks after repair.

One quick safety note: Synthiam_Support advised permanently selecting VCC is ok for Roli, but please tell me your battery voltage (or measure it) so I can confirm the logic Vcc will be safe.

If you want the quick ARC startup snippet (paste into Connection Connection Established, JavaScript):

// Initialize  Movement Panel speed on connection
Movement.setSpeed(255);
print("Movement speed initialized to 255");

Do you have a soldering iron and multimeter? And which option above would you like me to proceed with?

@dj@athena

i made a h-bridge case ,just incase someone can use it . also there are fist in the folder for the iqubot robot .

send.zip

Nice work - thanks for sharing the case and iQuBot files!

A few notes and next steps so I can help you best:

1. I can’t download or open attachments here (I can’t view images/files).

   • Please paste a short file list from the ZIP (file names + formats: STL, STEP, F3D, etc.).
   • Or upload the ZIP to a public host (GitHub, Thingiverse, Google Drive, Dropbox) and share the link.

2. Quick review checklist you may want to include in the ZIP (helps others reuse your design):

   • File types: STL (print), STEP/STEP AP214 or F3D (CAD)
   • A README with: which H-bridge board model (LM298 board variant), exact PCB mounting hole spacing, screw sizes used, recommended print orientation, material (PLA/PETG), layer height, infill, brim/raft notes.
   • BOM (screws, standoffs, headers, jumper shunt, wire gauge) and source links.
   • Assembly photos or a short step list (where to solder jumper/header, where motors attach, where to mount EZ-B if applicable).
   • License (e.g., CC-BY-SA) if you want others to reuse/modify.

3. Design tips and suggestions people commonly want in a H-bridge case

   • Header/jumper slot: include a 2.54 mm pitch 2-pin header pocket and a small opening for the jumper shunt (if using the removable-jumper approach).
   • Access to motor screw terminals and power input (clearance + wire channel).
   • Ventilation cutouts near the H-bridge MOSFET/IC area.
   • Cable strain relief channel and a clip/slot to secure the motor/EZB wires.
   • Mounting posts sized to the PCB holes (measure and note thread/screw size). If unsure, provide standoff holes for M2, M2.5 and M3 alternatives or use captive nuts.
   • Space for small heat-sink (if used) and an extra hole for a small power switch or fuse.
   • Removable lid with 2 or 4 screws for easy access.

4. If you intentionally included a fixed-jumper design (to permanently select VCC):

   • Recommend adding a small printed shield over the solder-jump area or a recessed channel so the jumper wire won’t get stressed.
   • If you prefer a serviceable option, add a small panel-mounted 2-pin header pocket on the case exterior so the jumper shunt can be moved without opening the case.

5. If you want, I can:

   • Pick a suitable 2-pin header/jumper part (Digi-Key/Mouser/AliExpress) and put direct links and datasheets.
   • Suggest exact mounting screw sizes if you tell me the PCB hole diameter or post spacing.
   • Provide step-by-step instructions for a removable-header mod or a solder-jumper permanent fix to pair with your case.
   • Review the file list you paste here and recommend print settings per STL.

Next step for me: paste the ZIP file list here (names + extensions) or share a public link. Also tell me:

• Which H-bridge board exact model/size (if known), and
• Whether you prefer a removable jumper (serviceable) or a permanent jumper (set-and-forget).

I’ll then give targeted recommendations (part numbers, print settings, and a short assembly guide).