@Glickclik

Was it difficult to get the boards out of the S3003 servos? Could you give us a run down on how you did this and a wiring schematic showing how it all hooks up?

Rex

Ok I will try. Oh! In fact I will do one better. Here is a good instruction from a website and it is exactly what I did to remove the servo board:

1. "For the Futaba S3003 servo there are five connections that must be desoldered before the existing control board can removed. These connections include three small pads that attach to the potentiometer and two larger pads that attach to the motor. The use of a desoldering braid or wick is typically the best way to desolder the connections. Servos vary in how their control boards can be removed. For instance, some control boards will be attached to the motor and potentiometer using wires. In such cases, the control board can be partially removed away from the case and the wires clipped or desoldered where they attach to the board. Other servos, such as the Futaba S3003, will require that certain pads be desoldered before the control board can be removed." A solder sucker will work as well as the braid. Whatever you feel works best for you.

2. Next all you need to do is solder your new (low amp) motor where the previous one was soldered.

3. Then solder the new potentiometer where the other was attached.

4. Leave the control cable attached as it will not need any modification. NOTE: If your motor is running in reverse of what you want it to, you may either invert it in EZ-B control or just desolder the motor and reverse the attachment to it.

The only reason I did it was because mechanically it was the best option to re-animate Pinhead.

--Troy

Here is my first try at a generic robot arm design.

EDIT Update the drawing listed here has been updated on a later post.See below. Arm.zip

The drawing is a pdf file.

I am open to all suggestions, ideas, criticisms, and comments from everyone.

Thanks,

Rex

Just scored a 1998 Toymax RAD ROBOT 1.0 + Rechargeable Battery on Ebay for $18.00

Cool Beans!

@rgordon Cool arm! But its not as simple as just using a Y-cable in that design, in both instances the twin servos need to turn in opposite directions.

wow only $18?

I'm doing life-size robots. I"m interested.

--Thomas

@ndavid79

Dough! My bad. Wasn't thinking. Well I guess I'll have to separate them and use extra ports. Bummer. Do you think the double servo setup for extra torque will work if I do this? Or should I maybe settle on using one servo with better torque? Maybe that would be better and also save on weight and port usage.

Here is the corrected drawing without the Y-harness

Arm.zip

Thanks,

Rex