Asked — Edited

Need Help Testing The Elechouse Tlg10ua03 Uart-Wifi ?

After Midnight Thursday, 14 March 2013

Good Morning EZ-Robot.com Hardware Team !

 Last week I received my ElecHouse UART-WiFi Kit, and got it Connecting to my Home Router with help from Robot-Doc, who  led me to the TLG10UA03, 

ElecHouse UART-WiFi

 I have attached my Screenshots and Test Procedure, "13-Mar-2013 ElecHouse WiFi UART Serial Terminal Loop-Back Test.doc", and my ARC File of the same name.

 I am using DJ's New Serial Terminal within ARC; seems to WORK GREAT, but I need to LEARN MORE on its proper use ?

 My Question is, Exactly Where Do I Loop-Back the WiFi Module; I tried Tx-to-Rx with No Success ?

Thank You All & Best Wishes,

[email protected], 602-246-1246(H)

13-Mar-2013ElecHouseWiFiUARTSerialTerminalLoop-BackTest.zip

13-Mar-2013WiFiUARTSerialTerminalLoop-BackTest.EZB


ARC Pro

Upgrade to ARC Pro

Unleash your creativity with the power of easy robot programming using Synthiam ARC Pro

#89  

About rookie mistakes, don't worry Rich... I even had forgotten on how to cross the RXD and TXD wires the other day, remember ?:) I still feel stupid about this one!

Thank you Alan for your full description. I knew about all this already, beside for the fact that lithium batteries can catch on fire ! I have a tenergy lion/lipo charger on one robot with batteries that have built-in fail-safe circuit that shuts them down when it reaches a voltage below 2.xx V. However on my other project I use a built-in Anker charging circuit connected to its original batteries that I've however stripped out in order to access the 8v current directly and I don't know if they have a built-in fail-safe circuit independant from the Anker's charging circuit (since I'm taking power from batteries directly instead of taking it from the built-in 9v output because), I'll check on that.

Tank you again Elfege

#90  

Lol @Rich, that WiFi router is my test environment and connected to a slow 2-wire DSL. My fast WiFi is using a cable modem and set up a bit different.

United Kingdom
#91  

@thetechguru I just did the same as you and connected VCC & Gnd around backwards so don't feel bad about that one...

OK so it's connected to the board but it wont connect to the WiFi while powered by the board. I assume there isn't enough current for the board.

Now I'm about to read all the datasheets, manuals etc. to see what the board needs and what the EZ-B gives. I'm guessing that using a 3v3 supply with more juice will solve the issue. I did connect the power to the USB and plug that in but since it doesn't share a common ground I expect that is the reason for the "firmware 8.5" error.

Slow progress but it's still only Friday night, I got two whole days to get it sussed out yet:)

#92  

The board requires 300 ma and I think the EZ-B provide 240 (the thread I linked to above had the specifics).

Alan

#93  

Be careful I just found out what probably made my first module to fry : according to the doc provided by elechouse you cannot send more 300mA into the module and if you use Arduino board and wifishield they simply say that you have to use an external low amperage source... but if you send a little bit less it won't start therefore any other device attached will make it fail in a way or the other, either by pumping out too much current or by not pumping enough!

http://www.elechouse.com/elechouse/images/product/UART%20WiFi%20Transparent%20Module/UART%20Serial%20Wifi_test.pdf

see the last page.

Clearly it seems that this module is just BS... any power variation might make it fry or just not kick in... it is not really compatible with arduino and not compatible with EZB either. For now it works on my EZB but I'm sure it's gonna fry sooner or later since my USB power supply is arround 2amps and the constant disconnections might be due to its complete intolerance to the slightest power variation.

I think DJ should read our posts and try to advise his customers on another device from now on. This one really sucks.

Elfege

United Kingdom
#94  

The module should only pull the current it needs, if there are 300A there for it it should only pull 300mA if memory serves me correctly (it's been 15 years since I did DC theory). Please correct me if I am wrong.

#95  

@Rich, you're correct. The WiFi PCB requires 300 mAH to fireup and run correctly. I'm using 3200 mAH LI-ion packs for power and have not had any problems with the board working. One thing that must be done however is that the WiFi PCB and the EZ-B must share a common ground.

United Kingdom
#96  

Yeah my testbot is on 6xAA batteries that probably need changing. I've been tempted to swap out the board in Melvin and test on him but can't be bothered yet if I'm honest, it's already 9:30pm here and I've not eaten yet!.. I'll try that tomorrow.

I'm tempted to throw a voltage divider on my 6V circuit to drop it down to 3.3v and provide an external constant 5A 3.3v supply, that will eliminate any power issues associated with the speed of transmission. But that's plan B, plan A is to give it enough juice so it connects.

There are reports of this working and it is also on the tutorials page under hardware compatibility (I think) so it must work. We will make it work:)