The exact same UART wifi TLG that you just fried is available on Amazon. If you're ready to spend 50$ for shipping you can have a new one in less than a week. I ordered my new one on sunday and it arrived today. This one comes with a wifi shield for Arduino which I find cool since it's just 31$ for the whole kit. I do not intend to use it with my EZB any longer but with my Arduino which is linked to a relay that allows me to restart my other robot when it gets disconnected from its built-in wifi. Actually I already have this relay available through Ethernet shield with Arduino and the ethernet is connected to a Netgear ethernet/wifi adapter. It's less of a smart assembling (beside for the arduino's programming part) and it consumes more power than using an actual wifi shield (since it uses 5v instead of low 3.3v) but with a 10000mah lithium battery pack it seems to hold pretty well.

Anyone could explain me why most people in robotics seem to prefer nimh batteries rather than lithium ? I really can't figure this out. I know some stuffs about the difference between these two kind of batteries but I don't seem to know THE detail that seems to make people prefer the old and heavy slow charging nimh technology.

Best, Elfege

I'm thinking... to save power you may be able to set it on 802.11b... just a suggestion.

That's unlucky Alan, how did you fry it? I don't want to make the same mistake.

Still couldn't connect to the wifi earlier this morning which is odd. All settings are correct, security is all OK, Filtering set up correctly (and have even tried turning it off with no luck).

I'll post some screen grabs later when I'm home as I may have missed a step or two although I can't see what.

Thanks, @elfage. I am also looking at a device from Roving Networks that use the chip that Sparkfun sells but on a developer board so I can plug into pins rather than soldering on an IC. A bit pricey, and command line interface only, but very good documentation and very low power requirements but with a wider range of optios too.

@rich. I am not sure how i cooked it. I was really too tired to be messing around. I probably gave it too much voltage.

For getting Wifi working, in the config gui, don't set the auto workmode at first. Get your settings for Wifi right, then go to the test page and hit the connect button to see if you can get on Wifi. Once you can, then go back and set work mode to server, set your port and timeout, reboot and it should auto connect to WiFi.

I'll give it another go when I'm home from work. Lucky it's Friday, I get all week to wrestle with it.

Just remembered I have team viewer so here's how my config looks...

[Wireless Set]
Ssid=KissMyAss
Encry=5
KeyType=1
KeyId=0
Key=REMOVED
[Net Set]
NetworkType=0
PPP UserName=
PPP Password=
IpAddr=192.168.0.222
Mask=255.255.255.0
NetGate=192.168.0.1
Dns=194.168.4.100
[Auto Mode]
ModeEn=1
Protocol=0
CsMode=0
Host=
PassTime=0
Port=0
[Uart Set]
BaudRate=115200
DataBit=0
StopBit=0
Parity=0
[Advance Wireless Set]
ChList=3fff
ChSet=0
NetType=0
AdhocAutoBuild=0
BgMode=0
MaxRate=9
Bssid=0
ReConNum=255
RoamEn=0
[Advance System Set]
Escape=2b
EscapeTime=2000
EscapePeriod=500
EscapeLength=512
WebsEn=1
WebsPort=80
Gpio1Mode=0
ComMode=0
Key=000000

Looks like AutoMode is enabled, I guess that need disabling.

At least for testing, Auto-mode should be disabled. Once you can test in the GUI, then it should be enabled, but you will need to define it as server, tcp, a port to connect to for TTL, and passtime (120 seems good). I don't have my configuration with me, and the computer it is on is turned off, but I'll post it when I get home. (note: if you set auto-mode to client, and it doesn't have an actual address and port to connect to, it will reboot every couple of minutes, and it is very hard to connect to via TTL, although you should be able top connect via the web interface.

It seems all of the text I wrote for my tutorial so far as I was going along is getting written in these posts. Maybe I should clean it up and post what I have so far since it looks like it is going to be a couple of weeks while I wait for a new one, and I may even decide to go with a different model.

I am liking the looks of this: www.rovingnetworks.com/products/RN_131_EK

or this www.rovingnetworks.com/products/RN_171_EK

or maybe one of these so I get a choice of antennae and no soldering for the TTL connectoin. www.rovingnetworks.com/products/RN174

although not the prices.. Documentation is excellent and clearly written by someone whose primary language is English not one of the Chinese dialects. Looks like it can easily be powered by the EZ-B, and has a 3-12v input range, so less likely for me to fry it by accident. Costs more than an EZ-B though

Alan

Indeed Rich you just need to have it connected while still connected to USB adapter and then activate the auto mode under the web page. Just in case, don't forget to set a different port for web server and for the auto mode server. You can actually leave the port 80 for the web server since you can still define an external port from your port forwarding in your router.

Let me know if you get a proper connection through IP directly without using virtual port because everything I tried so far was not good. Port forwarding works fine though. However I get disconnected pretty often which might indicate a power issue so I put the wifi module on the side for now until I can figure out what coudl do that because I don't want to fry another one.

Good luck Elfege.

Btw, anyone knows something about the difference between lithium and nimh? I mean, any idea on why people seem to chose nimh batteries rather than lithium for their projects ?