Help With Iqbot Wiring Colors

i've never seen that robot before - maybe it's a UK thing? Not sure what the wires do... was there a base it mounted to? it kind of looks incomplete as if it was supposed to have wheels.

@Athena i know you can't see the image but do you know anything about the IQBot robots? and anyone hack them?

it has wheels ; nice wheels ,

I can’t view the photos you attached - I need the exact text printed on the board/connector or a description of the connector (pin count, any markings, arrow, +/, labels). Please paste any text you can read from the PCB or connector and describe the connector shape (e.g. 4-pin Molex, JST, rectangular 4-pin). Without seeing the image I’ll give a safe, practical troubleshooting and wiring plan you can follow to identify each wire and then hook the motors to ARC using a Dual H-Bridge (with or without PWM).

Quick context and important safety

• Do NOT connect DC motors directly to an EZ-B digital port. Use an H-Bridge/motor driver. ARC has two Movement Panel skills you will want depending on whether you need PWM speed control:
  • Dual H-Bridge w/PWM (use this if you want speed control) - https://synthiam.com/Support/Skills/Movement-Panels/Dual-HBridge-w-PWM?id=16067
  • Dual H-Bridge (no PWM) - https://synthiam.com/Support/Skills/Movement-Panels/Dual-HBridge?id=16121
• If you’re uncertain about wires, power, or polarity, power the robot from a current-limited supply or use a bench supply to avoid frying parts.

Likely meanings for the repeated color set (red, blue, white, orange)

• Many older toy kits and robot kits use repeating color patterns for multi-pin connectors. Possibilities include:
  • Each color corresponds to a function repeated for multiple motors or modules (e.g., red = +V, blue = GND, white = motor signal, orange = sensor/switch).
  • The connector could be carrying both power rails and two motor outputs (or signals to an internal H-bridge).
  • The colors may be just convenient wire colors and not a standardized pinout - you must verify with measurements/tracing.

Step-by-step to identify each wire (use a multimeter)

1. Visual inspection

   • Look for any silk-screen labels on the PCB near the connector (e.g., +, -, M1, M2, A, B, IN1, IN2, ENA). Copy/paste that text here.
   • Note connector type and pin count (4-pin, 6-pin, 8-pin? single-row or double-row?). Tell me the exact text printed on the board near the connector.

2. Continuity/resistance test to find motor leads

   • Remove batteries.
   • Use meter in resistance () mode. Probe each wire pair to find a low resistance (~a few ohms to a few tens of ohms) - that pair is likely a direct motor winding. If you find two wires with low resistance between them, those are a motor’s two terminals.
   • If you find two distinct low-resistance pairs, you’ve found two motors’ leads.

3. Identify power rails

   • Reattach batteries or use bench supply carefully. Measure DC voltage between each wire and chassis GND to find +V and GND. Commonly red is +V but measure to be sure.
   • If you can’t power it up because the battery case is unreliable, fix the battery connection first or use a bench supply with current limit set low.

4. Trace signals on the board

   • Use continuity to trace which connector pins go to motor terminals, to the H-bridge chip pins, or to switches/LEDs.
   • If a pin traces to a DIP IC or to an H-bridge driver IC (look for drivers like L293D, L298, etc.), that pin is likely a control/signal pin (not raw motor power).

5. Simple live test to see polarity/direction (bench test)

   • With motor leads identified, you can momentarily connect those two motor wires to a small battery (a single AA or 2xAA) to see rotation/direction. Reverse the battery connection to confirm direction.

If after the tests you find:

• Direct motor wires (two wires per motor): you can connect those to the outputs of a Dual H-Bridge motor controller (motor terminals OUTA/OUTB etc.). The H-Bridge then gets separate control signals from the EZ-B (IN1-IN4 and ENA/ENB for PWM on a PWM-capable skill).
• Motor wires go through a connector to a board that contains an H-bridge: the connector may provide signal inputs rather than motor power. In that case the board’s pin labels are vital - identify them and let me know what the board expects (logic-level IN1/IN2/ENA etc.).

How to connect to ARC once you know the pin functions

1. If you use an external dual H-bridge (recommended):

   • Connect motors to H-bridge motor outputs (OUT pins).
   • Connect H-bridge logic inputs (IN1/IN2/IN3/IN4) to EZ-B digital ports (d0..d23).
   • Connect H-bridge ENA/ENB to EZ-B ports that can supply PWM (d4/d5 etc. - check your EZ-B hardware).
   • Power the motor supply separately from EZ-B supply (common ground).
   • In ARC add the appropriate Movement Panel skill: Project Add robot skill Movement Panels Dual H-Bridge w/PWM (or Dual H-Bridge).
   • Open the skill kebab (three-line) menu Settings (also called the triple-dot/hamburger/three lines) and map the EZ-B ports you used to IN1, IN2, IN3, IN4, ENA, ENB.
   • Raise PWM sliders in the skill main window (they default to 0) and test Forward/Reverse/Left/Right.

2. If the IQBot board expects logic-level inputs on that connector:

   • You may be able to drive it from EZ-B digital outputs if it expects direction inputs and has an on-board H-bridge. If so, identify which pins are IN1/IN2/IN3/IN4 and which (if any) are PWM/enable. Treat those inputs as you would the inputs on a Dual H-Bridge skill except the H-bridge would be on the IQBot board.
   • If its on-board H-bridge is damaged, you’ll need to bypass it and use an external H-bridge.

Sample ARC initialization script (JavaScript) This sets movement speed when the EZ-B/ARC connects. Put it in the Connection Scripts Connection Established script.

// initialize movement speed for  Movement Panel (0-255)
Movement.setSpeed(200);
print("Movement speed set to 200");

Follow-ups I need from you (paste these exactly where possible)

1. Exact text printed near the connector on the PCB (e.g., IN1, IN2, M+, M-, BAT+, BAT-, J1, J2, pin numbers).
2. Connector pin count and arrangement (4-pin inline, 6-pin, etc.). Are the same four colors repeated twice in a single connector or are there multiple identical connectors?
3. The resistance readings you get between each pair of wires (report them in ohms).
4. Battery pack voltage (with batteries in) measured across the expected + and wires.
5. Any IC markings on the PCB (e.g., L298, L293D, MC33886, ULN2003, or other part numbers). Copy/paste IC text here if present.
6. Confirmation whether each motor has only two wires, and how many motors there are.

If you want, start with step 2 (continuity/resistance motor lead check) and paste your readings here. Once you paste the board text and meter results I’ll map each color to its function and give an exact wiring plan for either using the IQBot’s on-board driver or hooking motors to an external Dual H-Bridge with ARC configuration steps.

Would you like step-by-step instructions for performing the continuity/meter tests?

hi roboteers

has anybody a clue how to lid up these LED ? there is no indication how many volts , these boards need . thank you

I can’t view the photos - please paste any exact text or markings printed on the LED board or the connector (e.g., "5V", "12V", "V+", "GND", resistor values, IC part numbers). That info helps a lot.

Below are safe, practical steps you can use to determine how to light the LED board and how much voltage/current it needs.

1. Visual inspection (start here)

• Count the LEDs on the board and note their color(s).
• Look for printed markings: "5V", "12V", "V+", "GND", polarity arrows, pin numbers, or part numbers. Paste any text here.
• Look for resistor components (through-hole or SMD) in series with LEDs. A visible resistor next to each LED or a single resistor feeding a group is a clue the board expects a specific supply.
• Look for an LED driver IC (small IC with many pins) - if present, the board probably needs a particular supply and/or a driver signal rather than raw LED voltage.

2. Use a multimeter first (no power applied except the meter)

• Diode test: Put the multimeter in diode mode and probe across each LED or each LED segment. The meter will show a forward voltage drop (Vf) if it sees a diode. Typical Vf ranges:
  • Red/orange: ~1.6-2.2 V
  • Green: ~2.0-3.2 V (depends on LED type)
  • Blue/white: ~2.9-3.6 V
• Continuity/resistance: measure between connector pins and LED pads to find which connector pin is + and which is GND (trace the pads). If a connector pin measures to a resistor, note its value (SMD resistors may be marked with tiny codes).

3. If there are no visible resistors and no driver IC

• The board may expect a specific supply voltage that already limits current (e.g., a 12V string with built-in resistors), or it might be raw LED strings intended to be driven by a constant-current driver.
• If you find multiple LEDs in series on the board, sum their Vf to estimate the required voltage.

4. Safe bench-power test (only after the above checks)

• Use a bench power supply with current limiting set low (start at 20-50 mA).
• Start with a low voltage (1-2 V) and slowly raise it while watching the LEDs and current. Stop if anything gets hot or the current spikes.
• If the board lights around 3 V with low current, it’s likely single LED per channel. If nothing happens until 9-12 V, it may be a series string.

5. Resistor calculation (if you’ll power from a known supply)

• If you determine LEDs are plain diodes without on-board resistor, calculate series resistor: R = (Vsupply Vf) / I
  • Example: White LED Vf = 3.0 V, Vsupply = 5 V, desired current I = 20 mA (0.02 A) R = (5 3.0) / 0.02 = 100
  • Example: Three white LEDs in series (sum Vf = 9V) on a 12 V supply at 20 mA: R = (12 9) / 0.02 = 150
• Use resistor wattage rating: P = I^2 * R (or P = (Vsupply Vf) * I). Use 1/4 W for small values, 1/2 W or more for higher dissipation.

6. If the board has an LED driver chip

• Note the chip part number printed on the IC and paste it here. We’ll look up the datasheet to find required supply and control pins.
• Do not connect random voltages to boards with drivers - you may damage them.

7. If the board is a matrix or multi-channel assembly

• Check for multiple connector pins: often V+, GND and then per-channel anode/cathode. Use continuity to map which pins control which LED group.

8. Quick test option for single LED segments

• Use a single AA battery (1.5 V) or two (3 V) to momentarily test a single LED segment (with a series resistor if necessary). This is crude but safe if you limit test time.

Safety notes

• Never apply an unknown high voltage to the board. Use a current-limited power supply.
• If the board has an IC, do not assume wiring - get IC markings first.
• Always common-ground motor/battery supplies when testing with the EZ-B or other controllers.

What I need from you (next steps - paste this info)

1. Exact text printed on the board or connector (copy/paste any numbers/letters).
2. How many LEDs and what colors.
3. How many connector pins and their arrangement (4-pin inline, 6-pin, etc.).
4. Whether you see any resistors or an IC; if IC, paste the part number printed on it.
5. The results of a multimeter diode test (if possible): list forward voltages read across one LED or each channel.

If you want, I can walk you step-by-step through the multimeter diode test and the safe bench-power test. Once you paste the markings/readings, I’ll give an exact recommended supply voltage, series resistor values, and wiring instructions so you can light the board safely and, if desired, control it from ARC (we can map it to PWM outputs or a digital output + resistor).

@athena

as i stated in post #4 there is no info on the board about volts . the only info is left or right and, LG1 LG3 R91 R81 LY1 LR2 info like this .

Good details - thanks. Based on what you posted (no voltage silkscreen, only labels like LG1, LG3, R91, R81, LY1, LR2 and you said the robot runs on 8 × AA), here’s a focused, safe plan to identify the board voltage and get those LEDs lit.

Summary first (likely scenario)

• The presence of Rxx silks (R81, R91) means the board has resistors on it, so it probably contains current-limiting resistors or resistor networks. That increases the chance the board is intended to be powered directly from the robot battery pack (8 × AA 12 V nominal).
• LG / LR / LY markings are almost certainly LED group identifiers (Left Green, Left Red, Left Yellow, etc.) or LED position names - LG1 and LG3 are LED group/pad labels, not voltage values.
• Because the robot uses 8 AA, the LED board may be designed for ~12 V with internal series resistors or series LED strings. But we must verify before applying power.

Do NOT apply unknown high voltage directly. Use the tests below.

Step-by-step tests (safe, with what to measure and why)

1. Visual inspection (what to look for)

   • Count LEDs per group (e.g., how many LED chips in LG1 group?).
   • Look for tiny SMD resistors marked R81, R91 near those LED groups. If you see a resistor in series with each LED or each group, the board likely expects a battery voltage (12 V) and is already current-limited.
   • Look for a two-pin power connector on the board (likely from battery pack). Find any silk text near that connector like BAT+, +V, GND, or +12V.

2. Map pins to groups with continuity

   • With batteries removed, use a multimeter in continuity/resistance mode.
   • Check continuity between the power connector pins and LED group pads (LG1, LG3, LY1, LR2). This will show which group gets fed from the supply. Report which power connector pin(s) map to which LED group pads.

3. Diode test across LED group(s)

   • On diode mode, measure across a single LED pad pair or across the group feed (if groups are already series-resisted).
   • Typical readings:
     • Red/orange LED 1.6-2.2 V on diode test
     • Green 2.0-3.2 V
     • Blue/white 2.9-3.6 V
   • If diode test shows ~2-3 V on a pad that corresponds to a group with multiple LEDs, that suggests they are wired in parallel segments; if it shows ~9-10 V (or multiple volts adding up) that suggests series strings.

4. Measure resistor values (if visible)

   • If you can read SMD resistor codes, write them here or measure resistance with meter (in-circuit values can be lower because of parallel paths). If you find, for example, R81 next to LG1 and its value is ~150 in-circuit, that’s a clue the board expects a higher supply and already limits current.

5. Bench-power test (ONLY after steps 1-4)

   • Use a bench power supply with current limit set low (start 20-50 mA).
   • Connect the supply to the board power connector (observe polarity from continuity tracing). Start at 3 V and slowly raise voltage while watching LEDs and current. Do NOT exceed the current limit. If current jumps or things heat, stop immediately.
   • If the LEDs begin to light around 10-12 V with modest current, the board likely is designed for the 8×AA pack. If they light at low voltages (2-4 V), they are single LED segments and need separate resistors for a higher supply.

Quick examples of what you might see (and what they mean)

• Diode test shows ~3 V across a group, and you see one LED in that group: board expects ~3 V per LED (no series). You will need a resistor when powering from 12 V.
• Diode test shows ~9 V across the group and there are 3 LEDs in a row: they are in series. With 12 V battery, a small resistor (or on-board resistor) may be present to set current.
• You find SMD resistors with R-numbers next to each LED group: likely already current limited for the robot battery voltage.

How to safely power the board once you know the wiring

• If board has on-board resistors and it maps to the robot battery wires (8×AA 12 V): connect it to the battery pack (common ground with the robot) and test. Use current-limited supply first.
• If board has NO resistors and groups are single LEDs: use a series resistor per LED (or a proper LED driver). Example calculation:
  • R = (Vsupply Vf) / I
  • If Vsupply = 12 V, single white LED Vf 3.0 V, desired I = 10 mA R = (12 3)/0.01 = 900 (1 W). Using 10 mA will be dimmer but safe.
  • For 20 mA: R = 450 (use 1 W resistor or larger).
• If groups are series strings (e.g., 3 × white Vf 9 V) and Vsupply = 12 V: R = (12 9)/I. For 20 mA, R = 150 .

Driving/controlling from ARC (EZB)

• Don’t drive LED boards that draw significant current directly from EZB digital pins. Use a transistor or MOSFET switch or a driver chip.
• If the LED group current per channel is small (a few mA) you may use EZB PWM pins but still verify current. Prefer a MOSFET (logic-level N-channel for low-side switching) controlled by an EZB digital/PWM pin.
• Once wiring is verified and safe, you can control with ARC using PWM.set(port, dutyCycle) for brightness or Digital.set(port, value) for on/off - but ensure the actual LED current flows through the motor/battery side, not through the EZB pin.

What I need from you to give exact wiring and resistor values Please paste the answers to these (you’ve already given some):

1. How many connector pins on the LED board and do any have silks like + or or BAT? (If you can’t see +/, tell me which connector leads go back to battery pack by continuity.)
2. Count of LEDs in each labeled group (LG1, LG3, LY1, LR2): how many LED chips in each group? Are they in a row?
3. Do you see small resistors near the LED groups labeled R81, R91? If so, can you read SMD codes or measure resistance across them (with battery removed)? Example: "R81 next to LG1 reads ~150 on my meter."
4. Results of diode test on a group or single LED (meter in diode mode): the meter forward voltage reading (e.g., LG1 = 2.1 V).
5. If possible, confirm the robot battery pack voltage (with batteries installed, measure across battery connector). You already said 8×AA - if they’re NiMH you’ll see ~9.6 V; if alkaline ~12 V. Please measure and paste the voltage.

If you want, I can walk you stepbystep on your multimeter and bench supply. Tell me which meter you have and whether you have a bench PSU with current limiting. From your answers I’ll:

• map colors/pin names (LG/LR/LY) to functions (anode/cathode or group feed),
• compute exact resistor values if needed, and
• give a safe wiring diagram and an ARC control suggestion (MOSFET wiring + PWM.set example).

Which test would you like to run first - continuity mapping, diode test, or bench-power ramp?

I don't know if this will help. Here's a link to a write up to this board. It's in a language I can't read, maybe Italian? but Google Translate will help.

I don't see anything about voltage to this board It does say that the three red, three green, and three yellow LEDs have corresponding limiting resistors. I also found this robot takes 8 AA batteries to run it. That's 1.5 volts per battery = 12 volts.

Best educated guess. Proceed with caution.  https://win.adrirobot.it/id_01/moduli/occhi/occhi.htm

Here's the entire article. Again, you'll need to translate. https://win.adrirobot.it/menu_new/index/index_idroid.htm#google_vignette