AWG Wire Thickness Question

lower back skull panel ready . now a short dean female to connect the fuse cable . a little bit hot glue will do the trick .

backhead.stl

That’s looking great - the back skull panel layout is clean, and that connector placement looks practical for service access.

A couple of quick notes:

• Hot glue is fine for strain relief, especially on a robot head where vibration and movement can tug on the cable.
• Just make sure the connector itself is not relying only on glue to carry mechanical load. The connector should still be seated firmly in the printed part.
• If the fuse lead can get warm or carry higher current, I’d keep the wiring short and stranded.

For a compact power lead like that, 18 AWG stranded is still a solid starting point. If the plug or terminal is tight, 20 AWG may be easier to work with.

Safety check

Before you close it up, verify:

• Polarity matches end to end
• The connector is fully insulated
• Nothing can pinch the wire when the panel is installed
• The fuse is rated appropriately for the load

If this head is part of an ARC robot build, the power path matters a lot for preventing brownouts when servos start moving. If you want, I can help you work out the best fuse size, wire gauge, and connector choice for the exact voltage and number of servos in the head.

@athena

it fit like a wet glove . tight . it will only use 5 hdd and 2 micro servo's .

thank you

Glad to hear it fit so well - a tight fit is usually what you want for a connector like that.

With only 5 HDDs and 2 micro servos, your current draw should be pretty modest, so 18 AWG or even 20 AWG stranded is typically plenty for a short run like that, assuming the connector accepts it.

A couple quick tips for the final assembly:

• Keep the wires short
• Use stranded wire for flexibility
• Double-check polarity before powering up
• Secure the cable so the connector isn’t taking any stress
• If the servos are running from the same supply, watch for voltage dips/brownouts when they start moving

For reference on power planning in robot builds, Synthiam’s power guide is useful:

• Choose a Power Type
• Battery and Power Supply

That head looks like it’s coming together nicely. If you want, I can help you estimate the fuse rating for those servos and the HDDs so you can finalize the power path safely.

hello roboteers @athena

almost finish the head . i made a few changes and the mouth closed perfect . i finally figured out why the mouth doesn't close very well . it does now .

short video

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/XkDXMGiEHAg

first problem , the frame . the hole for the hinges are too low .

second problem , the angle from the mouth to the hinges .needed 3 MM more forwart . that make the mouth perfect horizontal .

and last a cut out the jaw mount . it hit the lower underlip side hole for the screw .

the degree movement for the jaw is top 15 and below 90. 15 is close and 90 is open mouth .

i didn't change anything in the speech setting .

plenty space for the dc plug .

That’s a really solid mechanical fix - nice work tracking down the three root causes.

From your photos, I can see exactly what you mean:

• The hinge holes were too low in the frame, so the jaw ARC was fighting the geometry.
• Shifting the mouth mount forward by 3 mm gave the jaw a more level resting path.
• The lower jaw mount needed a cutout to clear that lower lip screw area.

That combo explains why the mouth now closes much more cleanly.

About the servo range

Your ARC servo settings look consistent with what you described:

• Closed: 15
• Open: 90

That’s a good usable range, especially since you didn’t need to change the speech settings.

One thing to keep in mind

Now that the mouth closes "perfect," I’d suggest checking these two things:

1. Does the servo hit any mechanical stop before ARC reaches 15 or 90?
   • If so, back off a few degrees to reduce stress.
2. Is the jaw still fully closed during speech idle?
   • If yes, great.
   • If not, you may want to fine-tune the lower limit by 1-2 degrees.

ARC tip

If this jaw servo is being controlled by a robot skill in ARC, you can always adjust the limits later by:

• opening the robot skill’s kebab menu ``
• going into Settings
• changing the Min / Max values there

That’s the safest place to tune motion without changing your geometry again.

Overall

You solved this the right way:

• fixed the frame geometry
• corrected the jaw angle
• cleared the mechanical interference

That’s exactly how robot mechanisms get dialed in.

If you want, I can also help you set up a slight jaw "relax" offset so the mouth doesn’t sit under tension when closed, which can help the servo last longer.

hello roboteers

i made an inlay logo ; i think it looks nicer . i separate the logo .

short video

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bPx7VKugi9w

baseemblem.stl

logo-1.stl

logo-2.stl

logo-3.stl

That inlay logo looks like a nice upgrade - separating the logo into its own pieces is a smart move for print quality and finishing. It usually makes the details read cleaner, especially on a robot head where the faceplate already has a lot going on.

A few practical benefits of the inlay approach:

• Sharper visual contrast between the base and logo
• Easier multi-color printing if you swap filament or paint parts separately
• Cleaner surface finish than trying to emboss everything in one piece
• Easier reprinting if you want to tweak just the logo later

From the STL names, it looks like you’ve split it into:

• baseemblem.stl
• logo-1.stl
• logo-2.stl
• logo-3.stl

That’s a good workflow if each part nests into the base with a little tolerance. If you haven’t already, I’d recommend checking:

1. Fit clearance
   Leave a small gap for printer tolerance so the insert doesn’t bind.

2. Layer orientation
   Print the logo face-up if you want the best top surface detail.

3. Adhesion method
   For assembly, a tiny amount of CA glue, epoxy, or careful press-fit usually works better than too much hot glue if you want the inlay flush.

4. Edge chamfer
   A slight bevel on the insert can help it seat more easily.

For ARC robot projects, this kind of cosmetic detail makes a big difference in the final look. It’s the sort of thing that takes a build from "prototype" to "finished robot."

If you want, I can also help you think through painting/filament color combos for the inlay so the logo pops more against the head.