just a quick update while I have time:
I've redone shogun's knee design, and i have to say, this is probably my best design i've ever done with a humanoid knee joint. The new joints make it so his knees have to bend less, which means he can basically support a lot more weight (much more than he weighs himself, in fact) I've repainted my EZ-B and camera (sorry if i hurt your feelings, DJ) overall I think i may just leave him like this and finally get to work on walking and gestures for him.
By Sudo
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sudo
very cool,i like it.
Very nice! I realise how big it is when I compare the size with the "tiny" EZ-B backpack. How many servos are there? Is there one on the waist?
Yeah, I thought he needed some sort of movement so he could actually track objects.
Using two servos on top of his body actually made him fall a lot, so this was the best solution I could find. He has 23 servos overall, but I've done as much weight saving as possible to make this guy still stand strong.
Very cool little guy Sudo. I need to give building one o these a try some day soon.
I'm particularity interested in your statement that your going to Radio Shack for some polymorph to make a shell for him. Have you worked with this stuff to make flat sheets in different size and shapes? It's seems like the perfect material for someone wanting to make custom and light weight parts. I've been watching some youtube vids on people working with it and it looks amazing. However I can see some drawbacks trying to shape it into larger flat parts like a shell or shields. Mostly the fact that it cools rather fast and becomes hard to mold as it does. Seems like it gets hard to form within a couple minutes. Then there's the issue of getting it flat and thin enough to use as a skin or shield. It would seem the bugger the part your molding the more difficult this would be.
Have you or anybody been able to do make thin and smooth parts with this stuff? I'm thinking you would need some type of press on a very hard and smooth surface. Something like a peace of Formica countertop as base and a peace of aluminum with a handle to press it down. Then a guy could use washers on the edges as spacers to get the thickness right. Just rambling some thoughts here on how I could do it. I'd love to hear your method.
If Radio Shack doesn't have the Polymorph I've found it being made under other brands. Amazon has it for sale through Amazon Prime as Theromorph. Prime free 2 day delivery for 18.59 at this time for a little over a pound of the stuff.
Amazon - ThermoMorph
If you use a big pot if very hot water, you can just dip it in when it starts getting cold and it'll be moldable again
Also, I have a wagner heat gun which I use to keep parts moldable for longer periods, but you'll have to repaint the polynorph sibce it burns it
dave
yeach build one bioloid.
I updated Shogun again, as you can see by the new first post
sudo
is there a reason to use the new chest insteadt the old chest. in the old chest you can make the camera moveble left -right. the old chest is big enough for a servo inside.
nice paint job love it.
The two piece chest that comes with the premium (the one I'm using) is less shatter prone and lighter. I and a bunch of other people's comprehensive chest pieces have shattered right down the middle when the bioloid fell over. I would suggest using the two piece if your planning on the robot falling to the ground fairly hard often.
sudo
i use them all the time.cause you can put in extra servo excample head or waist.
Its not like I'm telling you that the bioloid comp. chest is unusable, but if your making a comptetiton bot its best to use the two piece
sudo you doing competition? i did break some heads