I know I should finish Melvin before starting a new build but Josh's Jarvis has inspired me to give my JARVIS a physical form.
Some already are aware that I already have a JARVIS like system installed in my whole house which carries out a multitude of tasks from being an automatic PVR (like Tivo but better), controlling the heating and hot water system, controlling lights... too much to list really but one day I will attempt it.
Anyway, since it doesn't currently use ARC or an EZ-B I haven't posted much about it on here, but that's changing for 2 reasons...
- To inspire you guys to open a can of awesomeness and
- Because finally JARVIS will become a real robot rocking an EZ-B.
Basing the design around a RAD V1 robot
So far all I've done to the RAD is stripped it down - why they soldered every connection is beyond me!..
A lot of the choices I make on this project will be chosen by JARVIS. I will be adding some scripting so that I can ask him things like "What colour do you want to be?" and he will choose... this should make it interesting
Like I said, his brain is existing and has been for around 2 years, with new features being added all the time. You know what, let JARVIS tell you himself a little bit about him
For more, check out Jarvis Youtube Channel or www.JARV15.com (under construction)
Other robots from Synthiam community
Ezang's Motion Detector
Cobra71's Beginner Starts With Dickeys Rolling Olli
I think a site called automation pro has a few listed ,will find the link RICH and post it for you.
Yeah, I am aware of the controllers out there but there's more fun making your own
Plus, those are $130...
EZ-B - $69 Servo - $10 max LDR - $0.50 Temp Sensor - $2.00 Misc cables etc. - $10 (being very generous there!) Power Supply - $10 Total $101.50
But thanks for the link
@TECHNOPRO that link for controlling the blinds is same that automation store store has,its control by X10. I have almost every X10 module they made except for that one,might get it. Thanks I am also building a JARVIS like RICH project,started a while back but doesn't have all RICH JARVIS has,but will use some ideas he is using.
Great about eventghost i like so much it has a interface for X10 modules.
WILL need gears and a lot more to get it working RICH,but you are right it is fun building your own and easy.
Blind electronics is easy but using servo's on a long distance drape control will be the problem. Might need a linear screw motor,like they have in the X10 drapery motor.
Since 3D printing is probably going to be a huge thing and I'm patiently waiting for the release I thought I would have a quick brush up on my 3d cad skills. I've been looking for an ARC Reactor for Jarvis for a while but nothing fits or what would fit isn't the right style so I thought screw it, let's make one
It's not perfect, it's not finished but the bones are there. Since I'm not as fluent in 3D cad as I'd like to be I don't think I've done half bad with this. Anyway, this shows how much I know about Inventor, all I can muster up is an exported image (got the sequences all working and playing in Inventor but God knows how to export those to video or whatever).
Anyway, here's the first draft
I want the ring around the outside to glow though which may be an issue, I'm not sure if PLA is at all translucent. And I will be manually wrapping copper wire around the blocks, I could have added 3d printed wires but I don't think that will look as good as actual copper wound around them.
Edit: Figured it out
First draft dimensioned and multiview
Waiting for 3d printing place to start taking orders again then I'll get a prototype made, really cheap at 0.20p per cm cubed, it's like 6 rather than Shapeways wanting 26!..
Pla is not going to let light through. Its similar to a solid white milk jug , small amounts of bright light could come in. You can 3d print the part you want clear then use that to make a mold and cast your clear parts from epoxy resin. Is that a epoxy putty that gets hard or does it stay soft?
I found a 3d printer who use nylon and is dirt cheap so I'll knock up the prototypes in that stuff first, see how it looks and take it from there. There are other ways to get the ring to glow since it's only between the blocks so can always just whack a hole and an LED in those sections if it comes to it. Although I like the resin idea, that should be pretty easy to do (well I have no idea but it sounds it).
Yeah the Milliput goes rock hard in about 6 hours and is then sandable, drillable, tappable, cutable... If you look at the photos of the base I stuck a blob on the side of the base and have cut a small part of it (I had some spare and wanted to see how well it cut etc) it's pretty neat stuff. It's gone nice and solid now, a couple of pieces of card above and below the battery to make it slide in and out easier and it's all ready for fibreglass - when I go out and get some.
I thought I had some spare bullet connectors for the battery connection too, I know I have somewhere but I tidied up and seem to have lost them so can't connect the LiPo up just yet. Running on 4xAA at the moment, it's a damn fast base! Although a bit rattly with no weight in it.
Are you using a service for the 3d printing? Or buying one? Let me know who you are getting it through , I will need to do 3d parts too.