Richard R, Thanks, I have so much to learn! You have experience that I appreciate! So many great people that I can relate to, like you, Dave, and many others.! EZ is the best! Steve S

I like the right angled molex connector idea a lot, I may have to use that myself.

Another method I used on the I2C was protoboard and header pins to make a kind of Z type connector which converted the plug to pins (it even allowed for pull up resistors to be easily added and an LED to indicate connection (at least on the power) was OK.

By the way, I2C is pronounced a few different ways, I pronounce it as Dave did but I've heard it pronounced I Squared C also. And it's 3.3V just to clarify it, not that it matters

Thanks all. Glad you guys enjoyed the video. I did it if for no other reason then to show a few different options I've tried.

@Richard is right that you can use a couple of the Digital ports to send and receive serial commands. However if you start filling them up with other things that UART 0 port is mighty handy.

@Rich, thanks for adding to this thread with the useful information. Can you post a pic of that homemade Z connector you mention? Also thanks for clarifying the 3.3v v issue. I had a mind fart while filming and couldn't remember. However what's a few fractions of a volt among friends anyhow?

I've been thinking about better ways to connect to the UART port. Although my Molex 0.1 plug is a solid way to attach to an inserted 0.1 straight or 0.1 right angle header, It's hard and expensive for the average person to buy all the parts and learn the technique of crimping the pins. Lucky most of us robot builders do have servo cables. After playing around with all this the past couple days I learned that the female end of common servo cable is an exact fit when plugged on to 0.1 header pins. So no need to gather all the parts I listed above and buy expensive tools. You can just plug your regular servo cables into the UART port.

Of course if you use a common servo cable it only has 3 wires and you wont be able to utilize the 3.3v port. To do so you'd have to run an extra jumper wire, supply 3.3v power to your device externally or build a Molex connector plug like I did above.

Hello I think I found some breakaway header connectors that would help here is a link to a page of different ones

Breakaway headers

Nice find @Wolfie. Among the ones listed on that page the Extra Long Headers and the Right Angle Headers will work. The important thing is that both sides have to have long enough male pins to both fit fully down into EZB's female port and also be able to fully accept either a Molex plug housing or a servo cable on the other end.

Lacking any definite guidance from EZ Robot on the proper manufactured type of plug to mate with either the i2C port on EZ robot's V3 or the UART port on their V4 EZB, this connection method is the best I can come up with. Yes, jumpers like the ones sold in EZ Robot's store work OK but they seem loose and are easily mixed up and plugged into the wrong hole. If you have the room in your robot using headers and plugs keep your wires in the proper spot, make it much harder to attach them incorrectly and make a superior connection. In my couple years of experience building my B9 robot and over a decade of experience rebuilding and restoring solid state pinball machines I've found most electrical and electronic problems come from poor or mis-wired connections.

Keep that site in mind as they have ALOT of great deals and GREAT products I will be getting a lot of stuff from them They also ship stuff out FAST