Very interested in how you all approach the InMoov arm wiring and hiding the cables between arms and torso. Very interesting how you wired it Merne.
Also I have the speaker in the mouth and find that head settles forward on power down and tends to pull the neck out of the neck socket [bob houston style neck]. have a great weekend
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@Lorn, Second try, lol
I used 14 pin flat cable and servo cables both work fine. I ran all my cables out of the forarm then up thought the biceps out the back top of the biceps where the back bicep covers attach. Then were the servo for the rotcenter(arm rotates) attaches to that part there is a square hole is were I run all my cables thought.
Then I run all the wires, though the slots on the back side of the pivconnector(s) the runs/lays between the top torso part except the rotcenter wire that the servo attaches to outside that will run though the square hole on the servo pivmit( the part that rotates the arm up and down. This wire then goes on the back side of the torso to my EZB controller.
The pot that controls the shoulder Pot runs outside up into the other wires then though a slot on the torso to my EZB controller too. Make sure to leave a little slack and all the cables for movement of the parts.
For the shoulder servo wires I run them up in between the shoulder holder back on on top of the torso with the other wires going though the slot on the toros to the controller too.
As for the neck moving down when the servo power is released, we need to as bhouston and anyone else who uses Bob's design. I use Mr. Drupp's neck design, I find it look more like a neck. I think Bob has done a great job of several modifications to the Inmoov for our community but I like Drupp's neck, personal preference
You might have the neck position part to loose or not a strong enough serval to hold his position when there's no power to it hope all this helps.
Ohgreat, now Bob's gonna be mad at me for not following his tutorial on uploading pictures sorry Bob. *stress*
Forgot to mention, all Inmoov builders wires their's a little different so you might want to see if others share their wiring experiences.
Great pictures and very nice InMoov. And thanks for taking the time to write it [twice!]
I am going to rewire same routes as you have done, to keep it all tidy.
I think the problem I am having with the neck [which has only just started to happen since I finally got around to fitting his skull top/side plates and ears in place] is both weight and the round cup over the ball joint wearing out a bit. So its not properly gripping the ball joint. Tried tightening up the servo linkages, and even thought about adding weights at the back of the head to hold it in place.
I am planning to print the Drupp neck when my new printer arrives. Everyone keeps saying I should try it. My Wanhoa i3 control board failed again so I have ordered a new original Prussa Mk-2S printer so just waiting on that to arrive.
I had almost finished printing a new arm to fit the flexi-hand modification to, so thats yet to be completed totally. Also am planning on printing another head, so lots to keep me busy.
Also must get a voice BOT working! Oh and a new stand for him...
Have a great Sunday
I have seen somewhere somebody had a spring that fit around the piston that raises the head. It was about 2 cm dia and 5 cm or so long.
Look at post # 100 under my Inmoov project,
It show the spring i use to hold the head straight when the servo is release.
thanks for all your comments and pictures. I will mod the neck and that looks like it will sort out the problem. Plus my new printer should arrive this week so I can get 3D printing again.
What advantages does this new design have over the parloma neck design?
There is too much play in the parloma neck, and mine developed slippage in one of the gears.
Tracking is more easily facilitated.
Active range of motion is increased.
See initial video: https://youtu.be/R95s6OxsMGg
Although I hadn’t experienced play and slippage, there is a lack of range of motion as you have highlighted on the parloma neck design, which has bugged me for a while!
I like your YouTube clip.
None of the past necks really performed to my expectations, hence the new design. Plus, I love a project. The linear drive mechanism provides excellent fine tuned control over head position.
@mayaway I took these pictures to show you the Io-Tiny locations one in each Wrist. you can see no wires going to the torso. except the power, also you can see the elbow is Aerius design and it uses only a EZ_ROBOT HD servo to raise the arm, I advise if anyone is going to make this, make all the gears out of nylon filament as I had PLA break, ABS and Pet -g flexed to much and the gears slipped under load .
Great idea with the IoTiny in the arms.
Printing in nylon. I have some filament but never had luck with it. I have an 8" Maker Farm Pegasus. Any tips for what works for you?
Hmm, Aerius Design? What, where is that? If the servo is "outside" the arm, I might consider building a linear lead screw drive for that!
Anything to look out for routing the 2 shoulder, 1 elbow cables down to the ioTiny? Esp up where the movement is?
Oh yeah, any hurdles getting motions in sync with all the boards? Do you just call the MovementPanels from script? 1.D0, 2.D0
@mayaway The elbow is a planitary gear and works very well if it is printed correctly. here is the site to build one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2778760 do this as a test as it took a few tries to get it working correct. to print nylon you must make sure it is very dry, nylon filament is very hydroscopic and picks up water like a sponge. I use a food dehydrator to keep it dry. without one you will need to dry in your oven for 6 hours or longer around 150 deg. it will not print with any water present extruder 250 to 270 bed 80 print the gears no infill. I print on glass with hairspray. As far as using two Io-Tiny all the inmoov owners that I know use at least two ez-robot controllers as there are so many servos. the difference is I use one ez-robot controller and 2 Io-tiny's not a big deal. the other advantage of this elbow is the forarm cover does not have to be on and that makes working on the fingers very easy. also the hand can touch the head try that with Gaels elbow you can,t do it. also the forarm stays put even with power off. the elbow is very well designed but is a pain in the behind to get it correct and you must use ez-robot hd servos no other servos will work.
I have used the ioTiny in each arm from the beginning, much easier wiring. Nallycat is correct about drying nylon although I use elmers white glue for the bed. Nylon print temps
@mayaway Yes the arm fully extends. I will have to make a video about the hands. hard to describe you will have to see. you don't have to reprint the original hands.
@nallycat oh do! on vid of the hands - their action could certainly be improved upon. The original setup is just fussy. I've thought about a lead screw linear drive solution for there too. It sounds like you do have a powered flexion against a spring loaded extension in the fingers?