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Asked — Edited

Inmoov Heavy Head And How Do Other Inmoovers Cable Their Robots?

Hi everyone
Very interested in how you all approach the InMoov arm wiring and hiding the cables between arms and torso. Very interesting how you wired it Merne.

Also I have the speaker in the mouth and find that head settles forward on power down and tends to pull the neck out of the neck socket [bob houston style neck]. have a great weekend
lorn

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Synthiam
United Kingdom
#8  
Hi everyone
thanks for all your comments and pictures. I will mod the neck and that looks like it will sort out the problem. Plus my new printer should arrive this week so I can get 3D printing again.
Lorn
#9  
Hi there, I know it's been awhile... I also went through all the iterations of neck on the InMoov starting with the original Flex/Extend/Rotate then moved to Bob Houston's neck, then made mods, then built Drupp's Parloma neck. I've designed a two servo lead screw driven neck that provides precise control over head position and fits into the parloma neck footprint: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3781132

Enjoy!
United Kingdom
#10  
This is very interesting, I have built the Drupp Parloma neck design on my InMoov a few years back.

What advantages does this new design have over the parloma neck design?
#11  
Control over the head is more precise and certain.
There is too much play in the parloma neck, and mine developed slippage in one of the gears.
Tracking is more easily facilitated.
Active range of motion is increased.
See initial video: https://youtu.be/R95s6OxsMGg
United Kingdom
#12  
Thanks, I might have a closer look at your design and give it ago.
Although I hadn’t experienced play and slippage, there is a lack of range of motion as you have highlighted on the parloma neck design, which has bugged me for a while!

I like your YouTube clip.
#13  
I use Gael's neck design it is like Bob Houston's design but I like it better, I use  ez-robot HD servos and I have no issues with movement or  head dropping.  I  print the neck gears with nylon and the other parts with PET G.  I use an IO-tiny in each wrist to control fingers elbow and shoulder servo's so no wires leave the arms. no long wire runs just a pos and neg power wire. to the torso. *cool*
#14  
@nallycat - What a great idea! Got any photos of mounting and routing cables to the ioTinys? ARC supports five boards - I have 3 right now.

None of the past necks really performed to my expectations, hence the new design. Plus, I love a project. The linear drive mechanism provides excellent fine tuned control over head position.

Thanks!
#15  
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@mayaway   I took these pictures to show you the Io-Tiny locations   one in each Wrist.  you can see no wires going to the torso.  except the power, also you can see the elbow is Aerius design and it uses only a EZ_ROBOT HD servo to raise the arm, I advise if anyone is going to make this, make all the gears out of nylon filament as I had PLA break, ABS and Pet -g flexed to much and the gears slipped under load .   
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United Kingdom
#16  
Hi all
Great idea with the IoTiny in the arms.
#17   — Edited
@nallycat Thank you! Any pointers for:
Printing in nylon. I have some filament but never had luck with it. I have an 8" Maker Farm Pegasus. Any tips for what works for you?
Hmm, Aerius Design? What, where is that? If the servo is "outside" the arm, I might consider building a linear lead screw drive for that!
Anything to look out for routing the 2 shoulder, 1 elbow cables down to the ioTiny? Esp up where the movement is?
Oh yeah, any hurdles getting motions in sync with all the boards? Do you just call the MovementPanels from script? 1.D0, 2.D0
#18  
@Iomcampbell  Thanks you,  if you look at the pictures I posted you will see only one tendon on each servo for the fingers, it is a design of mine that I tested for about a year.  works great and very easy to adjust, I will post a video when I can find the time.
@mayaway  The elbow is a planitary gear and works very well if it is printed correctly.   here is the site to build one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2778760  do this as a test as it took a few tries to get it working correct.  to print nylon you must make sure it is very dry, nylon filament is very hydroscopic and picks up water like a sponge.  I use a food dehydrator to keep it dry. without one you will need to dry in your oven for 6 hours or longer around 150 deg. it will not print with any water present  extruder 250 to 270 bed 80 print the gears no infill.  I print on glass with hairspray.  As far as using two Io-Tiny all the inmoov owners that I know use at least two ez-robot controllers as there are so many servos.  the difference is I use one ez-robot controller and 2 Io-tiny's not a big deal.  the other advantage of this elbow is the forarm cover does not have to be on and that makes working on the fingers very easy.  also the hand can touch the head try that with Gaels elbow you can,t do it.   also the forarm stays put even with power off.    the elbow is very well designed but is a pain in the behind to get it correct and you must use ez-robot hd servos no other servos will work.
#19  
@nallycat - Are those nylon temps in *C or *F
Canada
#20  
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I have used the ioTiny in each arm from the beginning, much easier wiring.   Nallycat  is correct about drying nylon although I use elmers white glue for the bed. Nylon print temps
#22  
@3dGuy  Do you dilute the Elmers glue with water and how much, I have been using aussie hair spray as that was one of the recommend hairspray's and it does work very well I never have lifting or warping, but it has perfume and when I print it smells like a Hair salon.  I cannot remember if I got the IoTiny  idea from your design. but thanks if I did, I love your designs.  just one last thing if you look at the Aerius elbow you can see he places the ioTiny on a support on the elbow made for it.  I had mine in the wrist before I made the new elbows but I would think the location is easier to work on the ioTiny in the aerius  elbow. I am to lazy to change locations though.
#23  
@nallycat - Thank you! Yes. The whole construction is quite impressive. Will the arm fully extend? I can see that it goes to 130* flexion which is a great improvement. How do you manage only one braided line to each finger? Do you have return springs tucked away somewhere?
Canada
#24  
@nallycat,   I  don't dilute it. Just spead it evenly with a paint brush. Let it dry for a couple minutes once the bed come to temperature.
#25  
Thanks 3dGuy;  I will definately give the elmers glue idea a try, is it easy to clean up afterwards. the hairspray is easy,  just clean with hot water.
@mayaway  Yes the arm fully extends.  I will have to make a video about the hands.  hard to describe you will have to see. you don't have to reprint the original hands.
#26  
Thanks 3dGuy; I've been using CubeStick for $9 USD a bottle but it lasts a long time. I print mostly ABS on a 60*C Bed - I've wondered about good alternatives. 
@nallycat oh do! on vid of the hands - their action could certainly be improved upon. The original setup is just fussy. I've thought about a lead screw linear drive solution for there too. It sounds like you do have a powered flexion against a spring loaded extension in the fingers?