You are filling a predictable path. I did the same. Exploring the capabilities of your machine and changing the parts to accommodate. I did it for a long while. I modified many of the parts. Thing is, the end goal is to not have to do that. So you are kinda shooting yourself in the foot. Take the time to figure out your printer (the one I have) and work on the end goal. IT will be easy with a bit of patience.

A nice experiment might be to propose a part to print and a few of us can slice it for you and show you how we would do it.

Perry

Hi @Perry_S yes perhaps my "Printer Optimized" parts may not be required if I had mastered my printer. I have not had many problems with my inmoove prints, it is primarily JD that I am having challenges with. Auto creation of supports is not working well so ABS can't bridge with my software. I have annealed the pieces in acetone to reinforce and remove printing imperfections but still they crack when doing headstands etc. Example very small but important pieces like the neck on JD break when doing a somersault with the 3D printed parts but not the real parts.

Perhaps others who have 3D printed JD humanoid's can share experiences.

@Nink I also have an i3, its the MK2 by Josef Prusa...I bought the kit and it took me about 15h to assemble! I must agree that it is worth the time, it is just so rewarding in the end!

@fxrtst I also just started to print in ABS, had to realize that warping is much heavier than PLA, and I noticed the smell of it is quiet heavy! I will try PETG next! I switched to ABS because I noticed that PLA bends after some time, so I figured it is no use for robotics, but one thing that occurred to me was that ABS cracks really easy when I got the slots for my screws just a bit to tight...PLA was more forgiving on that part! stress

Nice you guys mentioned your favorite brands...I am always having a hard time deciding what to buy, availability is a factor too I guess.

@nink ABS is your problem. You can't print ABS very well with an open frame printer. You need to enclose your printer to keep the heat in. ABS also has to be printed at a relatively high temperature. I use 240C for basic run of the mill abs. If not you will get weak parts, layer separation and warping,,. I have an UP Box+ and an UP Mini 2.... Both print abs like a boss due to their all metal hot end and enclosed printing platform...

As Richard R says and I mentioned earlier an enclosure will make a huge difference. Printing slow will also help, say 30mm/s. If it is a smaller part, print 2 so that part 1 can cool for a moment while part 2 prints a layer.

I will add that for really strong parts adjust your infill to 80-100%

Here is an example of a simple enclosure I made up a while ago . It's just 1/2" dowels and a large plastic bag. Keeps the inside temp about 31C. I'll enclose the .stl for the dowels.

Dowel3wayv3.stl

Cool thanks for the tips. I really don’t want to switch to PLC as it always clogs on me and I hate finishing it. I.like abs as post process is so easy and any mistakes can be fixed with some acetone and a paint brush. I will try making an enclosure.