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Asked — Edited
Resolved Resolved by CochranRobotics!

Too Hot Or Too Colt

hi hope anyone knows this problem.i got some 3d parts ,but they look useble but,
are not what it supose to be.i think its a problem whit heating or so.

if i can get a solution i can help the person in the shop.

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no gear is in the hole

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very ruff parts

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edges are also very ruff

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I use a 230 for ABS, with a hotbed at 110C, PLA, I run at 200C with the hotbed at 70C. and close the door to the room and close the vents to the room. A lot of the temp also depends on the quality of the filament used. The PLA I had ended up in the trash can and more was ordered.

I was speaking of heating the servo gear to make the gear teeth in the piece.
I tried heating the servo gear and it did not work well for me. It would eventually strip very soon. You can try increasing the resolution to 1.0 or 1.5. Also, you can visit the forums for your particular type of machine.
hi moviemaker

also problably the gear wouldn position good in center.i ask ez if i can order straight from,
the factory or so.
Really fine detail parts, I would try to order injection molded. As mentioned here and everywhere else, 3D printing really fine parts isn't there yet. I have tried on 4 different printers including a Replicator 2 and a Replicator 2X that are both maintained weekly. Its just not possible to get that high of detail with where 3D printers are at this point. If you 3D print these parts, you will have to use some other method to depend on the really small teeth that are used for servo gears.
yes its not really what am looking for.now i think how can i get tree servo next to eachother.
i think they need to be on the byers page sinds they allreddy excist in the chest jd.
cool robot,think very exspencive
I agree. I was talking about how they did shoulders or hip joints. 3 Servos in same area working to make a joint work.
these are very exspencive servo's whit bearings and all
wow.are you gonna build this robot?
I am working to build a school program that will allow students to decide what kind of robot they want to build, and then build it. They will work with teams to build robots and learn how to design, print, build and program a robot over the first 4 years of the program. The 5th year, they will build a robot of their own.

Prior to this program, students will have gone through up to 2 years of introduction to robots using Six, Roli and JD, and 2 years of implementing the things they learned into existing robot designs.

4th and 5th - Introduction to robotics using ARC and Six, Roli and JD
6th and 7th - Implementation of robotics technology
8th thru 11th - Designing and building robots as a team and building a 3D printer
12th - Build your own robot from the ground up.

Because of this, I am experimenting a lot this summer with a lot of things.

Building a Wall-E with the V4
Built a 3D printer
Getting back into CAD
Printed a Rapiro head to demonstrate what can be done with 3D printers
Designing parts for use with various robots.

I am ready for school to start.
you cant have a better school.its very awesome what you teaching them.
I cant wait to start publishing videos. You know, the coolest thing that they will learn is how to teach themselves through research and experimentation. Phase 1 starts September 1st.
wow that just one month from here.i will sure follow your video's.
A little late to the party but, I'm pretty sure the acetone smoothing method only works with ABS parts because they are petroleum based.
Yea, you are right. Acetone is for ABS. I also mix acetone and printed scraps to make a paste that goes inside of open printed parts. This offers a non layered plastic to be joined to the layered plastic, making it much stronger. It also can be used to bond parts together.

It works on abs. I don't like printing pla. It could be the product I was using, but it is very inconsistent compared to abs.
@d.cochran... I've used the "abs glue" mix too and it works great. I also have some clear PLA and haven't been to happy with it either. Also, using unprinted scraps works even better than the printed scraps. I use the little bits that get "chewed" by the extruder when I change filament and it seems a little stronger.
HI ,
My 2 cents on this....

Once I needed to close a gap... Of course the part design allowed me to do the following.

I selected the cleaning of print nozzle mode ...

When the extruder nozzle started to extrude... I put the pat with the gap and managed to close the gap... It made a good bond...

Also you could use a 3d print pen.... Bu this cost at least another 75US...

The ABS glue though is another perfect solution...


I like when see people with your passion and want to make children better for their future... I WISH COULD HAVE YOU FOR TEACHER BUT MOST WISH I COULD HAVE YOU FOR MY KIDS....