Hey @fxrtst have you played with those 60kg servo yet?  I see a lot on eBay for really cheap but I haven’t purchased one yet. $30 versus $300 for a dynamixal seems like a good deal.  I wonder if you can do a potentiometer hack on these as well?

Wow, I downloaded and Tried DaVinci Resolve 17. Wow, it's great. I picked up on how to use it right away (with the help of a youtube how to video). 

Thanks!!!!!!!!

are you guys using a paid or free version of fusion 360?

Free!! Just renewed my free plan...best software ever!! Except for ARC of course!!

While building my little inmoov I have been working with gearboxes a lot. This isn't really appropriate for a walker actuator but I wanted to share a technique I am working with. Now that I have a SLA resin printer I have been printing the gears with that. The resolution is crazy so you do not get any of the layer lines that come with my regular printer and they mesh silky smooth. These early tries just used simple cosmetic resin and have lasted quite a while through testing although they are starting to show some wear (whiter areas). I have since ordered some high strength engineering resin to reprint these. We'll see how it goes. 
The rest of the gearbox is PLA, Bearings added to fix some of the original design wear zones. The worm support is really bad out of the box. 

Nice worm gear. I am curious to hear about the high strength engineering  resin works out.  I used to use ABS and acetone to smooth out prints but you lose a lot of detail and it is not very strong. The PETG seems to have a fairly good finish although I am not sure I am up for dichloromethane smoothing.

Nice...good to know that resin works for stuff like that!!

@perry, all my resins are brittle out of curing box. Are you using something like TUFF mixed in with the regular resin to toughen the cured print? How do you tap it for the screw that holds onto the servo? I couldn't imaging using it for functional parts.

@fxrtst (man I'm still trying to figure out how to pronounce that and what it means)

We all know resin printing from the awesome miniatures with incredible high detail. They were $2000 one Christmas and $220 the next. They were almost all made for the miniatures markets. Some time has passed and there is a growing movement to develop higher strength resins and processes. You are completely right about the brittleness in parts printed with regular resin. Mine are too, compounded by the fact I am usually printing thin parts at the time. But these thick heave parts printed non-hollow have held up well. I am noticing they do not have the same lubricity from the material I get with PLA gears so we will see how this new resin will perform. It is a ceramic no-fire resin with high surface hardness which I believe will help with galling and a much higher modulus of elasticity which will yield a better stress/strain profile. As I said, all words until I run it rough for a while.

Resins are coming along. Here's an example

Follow up post....I just got it.... FX Artist

I'm so slow some time

wow they are approaching PETG.  I ignored the resin market as I thought it was for creating shiny bobbles but @Jeramie brought it up last week in his car mod.  So I was looking at the Anycubic photon model X as a medium size resin printer but was  put off by the low tensile strength.  Maybe time to reconsider for quick high resolution prints for smaller parts.

Reading https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/sla-3d-printing-materials-compared/#standard

Nice link Nink.
Man I can can make flexible tires!

I got a Mars Pro for Christmas. Really happy with it and a lot of online support.

I have a review video on my channel for the anycubic mono X. It’s a great printer. But I’m getting very interested in some of these new resins. Most standard resins are urethane. I’m slowly stocking up on various mix ins like Tuff which adds a small flex to the parts making them less brittle. 

Yes FX Artist.  You got it!

I just repaired my damaged BLDC, so I thought the clip fits perfect into the thread...

Nice: if I didn’t know better I would think you are learning in preparation to design your own BLDC.

I actually learned a lot by doing this...and I am a lot less afraid now in case I will have to do it again! 

Its amazing how simple and elegant the whole concept of BLDCs is!!

As I stated earlier in this thread I grew up in my grandfathers motor rewind shop and every motor on the planet works the same way. Some differences: single phase and three phase windings, ac and dc. We had a cool machine that would create the windings then each coil was placed by hand in the stator, then the stator was dipped in resin and baked. The resin vat was built into the floor and held 100 gallons of resin. It had a steal door on top but I always envisioned as a kid falling in it and being preserved like mammoths in the tar pits! Lol.

Anyways, You did an awesome job rewinding it.

Awesome 3 in hand rewiring. We have a resin tank in the factory just like Will's dad but it holds 10,000 gallons!

Here's a pic from my day job, installing a 2.1MW BLDC used as a generator on a wind turbine. The team I work on did the design and prototype testing.

Awwww I love that! The biggest motor I remember, I was about 10 years old we had a stator that was big enough for me stand up in arms out stretched...but this one is waaaaayyyyy bigger. I've never seen a wind turbine apart like that before..so neat! Thanks for sharing!

OMG that is some huge a** generator!!! You always forget industry builds when working on the small scale hobby projects...amazing!!!

anyone working with PolyCarbonate. I am printing the MJBot components and the lower legs are PC Blend. Reading the docs on PC Blend looks like you need a hood (I guess I can make a makeshift one using clear plastic and dowel) but wondering what peoples experiences are.  Also looks like the PC Blend is quite strong (although prone to warp on large prints) wondering if suitable for gears.