Hi Dave,

The delay in re-posting is mainly due to being really busy with home stuff and I haven't had much time to work on the robot. That and I am fast becoming really frustrated with this issue and I had already exhausted all known avenues over and over, (well, avenues that I, as an electrician can understand. Electronics are a bit of a mystery to me). I found myself having to walk away from it to collect my thoughts, calm down and try and think of something I hadn't already tried 20 times already, .......such as removing the speaker to see if magnetism is causing the issues. Thanks Dave, I'll give that a try. Why didn't I think of that? I've had issues in the past with EMF while working on the waist motor and the 240 volt fluorescent task light I was using to see.

Unfortunately I didn't save the original tune from when I was using the 2x12 Sabertooth, good Idea though.

I going to try removing the speaker right now and I will let you know how it goes

Thanks Dave, for all the help you've given me

Steve

tired Sorry to say Dave, but removing the speaker didn't work. Back to the drawing board I go....... tired

Steve

Okay, let's stay on the EMF path for now. I see you have power cables running in the same conduit as kangaroos feedback wearing. Are the red and white wires the power fed to the radar motor? Try moving the power wires as far away from the feedback circuit as you can. Do this from the kangaroo all the way to the motor.

If you are able to start a tune with the motor out of the robot there's a reason why you can't start one when mounted in the robot. Something is keeping the feedback signal from getting back to the Kangaroo or causing it to be confused. The error message that the kangaroo shows is usually spot on on my experience. Trust me, I've caused most of them to trigger. Lol.

You said you tried to get a tune to start when you disconnected the limit switches and tried a Teach Tune? Did you get the same 6 flashes?

Would twisting the signal pairs help prevent EMF like it does in Ethernet and long telephone line runs?

Alan

Yes Alan, great call. At the very least it couldn't hurt. I'd also twist the power wiring. Another method that could be tried is to wrap each signal wire around its own FERRITE ring.

Are the signal wires free floating? They may require a pull up or pull down resistor - based on the type of sensor. Does the sensor have a pull resistor?

Thanks guys, I've been thinking that I may need to try running the motor power cables separately......all last night...Its keeps me awake at night. I kept putting it out of my mind because of the low current the motor draws and the fact the power and encoder wires are all together as a loom as they leave the motor. That and I'm a neat freak and I wanted everything all contained in one neat lead and plug. I think you are right though Dave, I have no choice but to pull it all apart..... again and try with the motor power wires run separately. I have to head off to work now, so I will keep you posted. Thanks for so much for not giving up on me. Means so much to me and keeps me motivated.

Steve

Sorry DJ, missed you're post while I was typing the last one. There is no pull up or down resistor in the circuit. If required, where and how would that be connected?