
Sudo the Banned
USA
Asked
— Edited
How many volts can a v4 handle? I'm planning to use a v12 battery for my v12 servos.
How many volts can a v4 handle? I'm planning to use a v12 battery for my v12 servos.
Do you mind asking that question publicly on our community forum? We'd love to give the response there so people looking for that info in the future can easily find it.
Thanks!
Alan"
i have no idea why this was done but they asked so i just moved my email question here
The tracings on the board are limited to the power they can provide. It's best if your going to go with a direct power source to skip the board. You would run a power wire to a distribution block and all the red positive servo connections would be connected to this. This bypasses the microcontroller board direct to your 12 volt battery. In most cases a servo is not rated for 12 volts unless it is a large very heavy duty servo. The servo specs will say if it can handle 12 volts. Most take either 5 , 6 or 7-7.4 volts. The only 12 volt I know of are dynamixel that I can think of.
- Josh S
(P.S., where could i get 4 way battery splitter? I need to get 4 6-port 12v distribution blocks. *eyeroll*)
These little 5A guys come in handy for distribution (as do their bigger brothers who are rated at 20A)
http://m.radioshack.com/radioshack/product/detail.do?itemId=2103982&categoryId=&cust_categoryId=&path=
4 position splitter 2.49
The little ends are JST connections. You can buy a crimper and the ends however the crimpers are quite expensive (at least over here they are) and they are fiddly. I tent to cut jumper wires and servo extensions and solder them up as I require them. Or you could just use servo extensions, cut the red and black off close to the plug and leave the white for the signal. Just be careful not to short red to black.
http://www.trossenrobotics.com/squid-sensor-cables.aspx
They are what I use. Cut the wires and solder on jumper wires, cover with heat shrink (or tape if you're on a budget) and viola, you have the cable you need.
@Josh, are these the crimps you use?
I prefer to use these terminal blocks;
They do them in 3A, 5A, 15A and 30A they are also totally enclosed so no chance of something dropping on them and shorting anything.
For the common ground I like to use these;
I just use stuff like these silver plated and insulated connectors.
I don't have a camera yet, but when (if) this robot is finished, i'll find some way to take a picture.'
EDIT: He also has a changed leg frame. Instead of having the bend part for the knee joint, he has another long straight piece.
EDIT EDIT: So at the middle joint of the knee, this frame piece: http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store/p/6179-Bioloid-Frame-F1.aspx is replaced with this: http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store/p/6182-Bioloid-Frame-F4.aspx
EDIT: Also, could i just use these as a servo cable, and use the signal cable to connect to the EZB?
http://www.trossenrobotics.com/squid-sensor-cables.aspx
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=21757496
4 x 35mA = 140mA
Check the stall current though, I struggled to find it and only found it in one place which required a calculation (subtracting the controller's current draw from the total draw to leave only the servo's current draw) so it's possibly not too accurate.
- We do feel that operating the board from 12V batteries is important
- The board will be able to operate 24 servos but as @Robot-Doc mentioned, you will need to consider current draw/battery life when operating that many
- Specs (Voltage min and max, and Current max) will be shared with you soon
I hope you guys are as pumped for Revolution as I am!