Without the manual or data sheet, your guess is as good as mine.... If it's an H-bridge... Rich should be able to help you....

It is a dual h bridge.

Motor forward: DIR = 1 PWM = PWM Motor reversal: DIR = 0 PWM = PWM Parking brake: DIR = X PWM = 0 (X is an arbitrary state) Motor and power connections POWER connected to the positive power supply, GND power supply is negative. Two motors were connected MOTOR1, MOTOR2

Parameter:

Rated voltage: 3v-36v (can be customized according to the user) Rated Current: 10A Peak current: 30A Use: Freescale smart car contest Undergraduate Electronic Design Contest variety of DC motor control circuit Dimensions: length 108mm*58mm width

include:

New Dual Motor Driver Module board H-bridge DC MOSFET IRF3205 3-36V 10A Peak 30A

Quote:

pin 1 ground ..pin 2 pwm2..pin3 dir2..pin4 pwm1...pin 5 dir1.....pin six +5v.

Exactly how it says...

Pin 1 - EZ-B Digital Port Ground Pin 2 - EZ-B Digital Port Signal Pin 3 - EZ-B Digital Port Signal Pin 4 - EZ-B Digital Port Signal Pin 5 - EZ-B Digital Port Signal Pin 6 - Regulated +5V

Assuming you are using D0, D1, D2 and D3

Connect D0 black to Pin 1 Connect D0 red to a 5v regulator Connect D0 White to Pin 2 Connect D1 White to Pin 3 Connect D2 White to Pin 4 Connect D3 White to Pin 5 Connect the output of the 5v regulator to Pin 6

Either script or use PWM and Digital controls to operate.

D0 needs a PWM control, this controls the speed of motor 2 D1 needs a digital on/off control, this controls the direction of motor 2 D2 needs a PWM control, this controls the speed of motor 1 D3 needs a digital on/off control, this controls the direction of motor 1

Or scripting, to move a robot forwards would need the following script

Set(D1, On)
Set(D3, On)
PWM(D0, 100)
PWM(D2, 100)

For reverse

Set(D1, Off)
Set(D3, Off)
PWM(D0, 100)
PWM(D2, 100)

Turn one direction

Set(D1, Off)
Set(D3, On)
PWM(D0, 100)
PWM(D2, 100)

Turn the other direction

Set(D1, On)
Set(D3, Off)
PWM(D0, 100)
PWM(D2, 100)

Stop

Set(D1, On)
Set(D3, On)
PWM(D0, 0)
PWM(D2, 0)

Speed control is done via PWM on D0 and D2 if you need it.

It's the same method used by the Dagu motor controller, as explained in this topic

Thanks .I just wanted to make sure i was it doing right.Thank you for your help..

Two quick questions about this controller as I have just received one.

1. If I supply 12v to this controller via the "power" terminal with one battery, do I still need to connect the EZ-B4's "positive" digital pin to the +5v terminal on the controller, and do I need a regulator as the EZ-B4 is powered via a separate 7.4v battery?

2. What's the correct GND terminal on this controller to connect a common ground from the EZ-B4 to? I ask as this controller has two GND connections.

I'm asking as I am swapping out an L298 controller for this one.

Thanks.

Steve G.

What does the manual say? Is there a manual?

Basically, it will still need +5v from somewhere for the logic circuits, if it doesn't have an onboard regulator (the L298n does) then it will need a +5V from somewhere.

You have a common ground with the EZ-B, connect both grounds to the common ground. You can do this simply by linking the two or by taking two separate grounds back to a ground point.

No. It didn't come with a manual which is why I'm asking. I know the L298 has an onboard regulator as I have been using one (with white button pushed down) but wasn't sure if this controller had a regulator on it (again, no documentation with it). I followed the instructions above, but @rb550of didn't mention what voltage he was using to power his motors so I wanted to be sure before I hooked it up.

@Rich.

Sorry, I forgot to say thanks for replying and clearing that up for me. So just to clarify as I've never installed a regulator, a 5v regulator needs to go between the EZ-B4 ground and possitive pins on say D0, and the +5v and GND pins on the controller? Sounds like a silly question but I just want to be sure. Actually having a little trouble finding an in-line 5v regulator from the UK.

Yes a regulator goes "in line".

A regulator has;

Vin (Voltage In) Vout (Voltage Out) Ground (Some have 2 grounds, they connect to the same thing)

Vin connects to the EZ-B Vcc of any digital port Vout connects to the device which needs +5V Ground to ground

As for finding one in the UK... I've never looked for a 5V one. I have a 6V one in Melvin which is from an RC store online meant so you can use a LiPo with 6V RC Gear. Ebay and get from China is probably your best bet though.

Unless you fancy making one yourself on some protoboard? Farnell, RS, Maplin etc. all sell what you need (Don't use Maplin they are very over priced!) and the schematic is easy to find online...

Cheers Rich. No I won't try to make my own (just yet). Actually I just found and ordered one from a UK hobby shop. Should be with me at the end of the week.

It's a switchable 5v or 6v one with 5.5v to 23v input for use with 2-6S LiPo's as you mentioned. Thanks again for the confirmation.

I had one of those H bridges. You will want to buy heatsink for those transistors. You can get individual heatsink and a screw and nut to hold it on.... or you can buy 2 x 4" long x 1" thick heatsink and drill holes to accommodate connections to each transistor.

Thanks for the heads up Jstarne1.

I used a 5v regulator for the 5v logic.One of those small ones from China.Paid less than $4 us..on Ebay.my motor power is 12vdc sla battery.

I got something similar to what you did @rb550f and just installed it. It's all wired up now and everything is working but I have come across one thing I NEED eek to sort out. I have done an Init script for EZ-B start up setting both motors PWM to "0" just to be on the safe side, but every time I power up the EZ-B, the wheels spin like crazy and have to lift the chassis off the ground until a network connection is established and the init script runs. How do I stop this from happening before any damage is caused?

Thanks.

Put a switch on the motor controller's + power lead... Only turn it on once the ezb and software is up and running... Switch the motor controller on and then run the init script...

@Richard.

Hey dude. I actually have an isolator switch in place already for maintenance use, but this will kill the idea of powering up with the remote control fob I have. Is there no other way to stop this? stress

Maybe you need a 2channel remote control key fob then.... They can be picked up really cheap on eBay....

Well if that's the only way, I better do some shopping then. eyeroll

Cheers Richard.

You can use something like this 5V Relay as an option... Plugs directly into one of the ezb's digital ports.... Using Set(D0, ON) and Set(D0, OFF) will drive the relay... This way you can turn your motor controller on or off using an ARC script or digital control...

That's cool. I went with the 2 ch remote in the end as I already have the set up in place. Thanks again Richard.

Just a comment about the hbridge at the start of this post. I used it to run 2 dc motors and run with arduino. When I send analogwrite value of 255 (motor full on) the supply volts of 13.7v drops to 10.5v on forward and 7.5v on reverse on the motor connections. This is also true if I just feed the PWM pin 5v. I found that I had to use a value of 254 as my full on PWM value and the the motor ran with virtually no voltage drop. Not sure why but seems to be a quirk of this hbridge.