Hi! This is my first post here!
I have built a robot before using the arduino, but now really want to make something useful. As you can see in the video, my last robot didn't really do much, it was just REALLY big!
Video here
So I am going to try an make a DSLR 360 robotic panorama head, controlled by a smartphone.
The robotics part, I am pretty sure is more than possible with ezrobots hardware / software. But would it be possible to trigger a Nikon d750 with the EZ-B v4/2?
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EDIT: The final thing is pretty much done! See the videos of it working below.
And here is the mobile phone app interface.

The EZ-B can't directly do IR, but there are probably solutions for this too (A robot gripper holding an IR remote control aimed at the camera is a down and dirty way to do it. Crude, but effective).
Alan
EZ-Robot's video guy made a pretty neat rig for time lapse, but he used a go-pro
So I could actually make it refocus first too by using two relays. By the looks of it anyway. I found someone made one for a Canon. The jack is a simple stereo jack and the same in the Nikon.
So there are enough pins on the EZ-B v4/2 to do this. Perfect.
Many thanks! I really appreciate the quick responses!
http://www.01mechatronics.com/product/supermodified-v30-rc-servos
Thanks!
http://www.01mechatronics.com/support/gettingstarted/testarduino
Yeah those servos will work. They have serial or i2c connectivity. So you can choose either one or the other. In practice, the serial/uart is much easier to work with. Use the SendSerial() EZ-Script command and voila!
Just have to take a look at the manual to see what the commands are to move the servo.
They say...
So that will be the easiest! Simply get the servo and ask for it to receive standard RC/PWM between 1-360 degrees. Voila
Although you can use the servo that Jamie Young uses with his BB8. It's called a Winch servo and that is easier to find.
And here is another winch servo that is cheaper: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/sail-winch-servo-13kg-0-7sec-360deg-55g.html
That's what you need
Sorry about the double post. I am the new guy haha
Anyway.. I plan on attaching the magnetic sensor (pot replacement) on the turntable itself rather than in the servo.. I can get more of a direct reading then. Not sure it this is a good idea or not.
I will have to add gears for the pitch and yaw mechanisms as the camera and lens are about 1kg. The load will be about 5cm from the fulcrum for the pitch. My RDS3115MG servos I will modify, have 17kg/cm @ 7.2v. I figure, if I gear it by 6x, I should have enough torque and be safe not to overload it.. It will hopefully hold in position nicely too. It will be a lot slower though.
That's even better
Because I am based in South Korea, it can be hard to find decent stuff at a good price, especially imports! But I found a HS-785HB 3.5 for $10 cheaper than USA sites
Thanks dude! Great help!
So I have adapted a servo with gears to run 370 degrees. I wanted a bit of overshoot for the 360 degree pan, just to be safe.
I just moved the pot so it is now geared. I will do a smaller version this weekend.
I printed this one in PLA as hear it is better for gears. Any ideas on printing gears in different materials? What is best in your experience?
The larger one is for my DSLR.
They snap incrementally into place manually - but only for one lens. The DSLR is set up to snap into 16 positions around 360 degrees and 4 positions on 180 degree for the vertical. Only for a 50mm lens.
Both printed in ABS.
So if I want to change the lens, I need a new base for snapping positions.. This is why I am making a robotic one instead..
I thought I would use this thread as a log for my progress if that's okay?
Got to say, that was the easiest setup I have ever had! Thanks!
Looks like I might end up buying the mini one too as I really don't need all the features / outputs on this beast! (At least for this project anyway)
Looks like it is coming along well!
Because of other commitments, I'm giving myself 8 weeks to finish this! Should be fine, as long as I don't need to order any parts from overseas. Will definitely need some advice when it comes to the coding though..
Will post some more progress after the weekend
Busy designing and printing the mechanism for panning.
It has the power due to the gearing. However, in the software I am using to make a 360 vr panorama, I can save a template, so I don't need to stitch the images semi-manually every time. For this to work, I need pretty good accuracy as the software expects each image to be the same incremental angle for the template. Really useful feature.
So my next attempt would probably be using steppers with H-bridges to control them.
http://www.ez-robot.com/Community/Forum/posts.aspx?threadId=5028
http://www.ez-robot.com/Community/Forum/Thread?threadId=6183&page=2
Alan
You will have much better luck with the winch servo. Because you can specify degrees of accuracy and the servo will hold the position.
Thanks for the links to the steppers Thetechguru! It will be really handy if I do go that way..
I do have a few 12v 380kg/cm servos that do 1.5 turns laying around too. (Overkill much?) I really dont want to use them for this as they are 1lb per piece! Also going up to 12v just complicates things. Don't want to risk losing fingers either haha!
Back to the electronic drawing board >__<
My gear system for the pot was a little loose, so redesigned those gears. Much tighter fit now and I can't move / wiggle the pot gear manually with my fingers.
So now that tricky bit is out of the way, I can work on the next axis. This one needs more torque as will be lifting over 1kg at 4cm to 5cm ~ depending on which lens.. These servos are 17kg/cm so if I gear it to a 3:1 ratio, it should have 51kg/cm ~ that comes out at 10.2kg of torque at 5cm.
So I spent the weekend printing and assembling. Got a first prototype working. The only problem I am having is my wobbly tripod head! The actual panoramic robot is really rigid. I have printed a new tripod head that is much stronger, but the weekend is over and have no time to fit it tonight.
To add extra stability to the two axis, I used some massive thrust bearings. Seems to do the trick.
At the moment, it is all printed in PLA, just 1.2mm walls and 20% infill. Not sure if this will be up to the task for long-term use, so when I have everything right, I will print it again in ABS, 100% infill.
All that is left to do now is to design and print a detachable electronics housing / battery holder. It should balance it out nicely too. Then print the adjustable camera mount. Should have the camera on there by the end of next weekend!
So here is a video of the prototype in action. I used a cardboard box in place of the camera.
Your design looks very solid and the servo movement is so smooth. Sweet! However what are you going to do about the wobble your tripod is adding to the mix? I would imagine if your software is expecting a smooth transition from shot to shot and your shooting quickly you would want the pan to be exact. Is there a new quality tripod in your future?
The tripod head is crap though. You spotted it in one.. So wobbly. This tripod cost $20 haha! A quality tripod might be a good idea yes!
You're dead right about the software expecting the same degrees of movement. The servos are ok. It all depends on how they hold up under the weight of a dslr.
The next step, if they start juddering under the strain, will be to replace them with steppers.. Hope I don't need to go down that route though..
I am going to need two relays to trigger the focus and shutter control.
Incoming newb questions!
1) What kind of relays would you recommend?
2) Where do I plug them into the main board?
3) What kind of code would I use to trigger them?
Many thanks in advance to anyone willing to help!
I believe I just need to use a NO (Normally Open) relay.
To make the connections for focus and shutter I will use two relays.
So d0 to d23 have the ability to send a pulse right? Do they work with commands like "High" and "Low"?
If so, all I need to do is set it to High, with a sleep for timing, and then back to low. Not sure what the code would be exactly, but along the lines of
#focus for 3 seconds
Set(D0,on)
Sleep(3000)
Set(D0,off)
#Shutter 1 second
Set(D1,on)
Sleep(1000)
Set(D1,off)
Here is what I need to control with the relay..
No emf feedback either. I was thinking a 4N35 or similar..
Anyone have any experience with these?
I saw some people are using a opto isolator in conjunction with a relay - to make sure that there is no EM feedback from the relay. Does anyone know if a solid state relay can damage the pin / board if used directly? Or is that a mechanical relay only?
Luck wasn't my friend yesterday. The cable I ordered for the Nikon shutter release didn't work. So drove to the centre of Seoul the get a new one.
Anyway, the road was hell because of the millions of protesters outside the bluehouse! Loooong journey for a cable!
Will solder this morning. Love the smell of flux in the morning!
One observation. The 4n35 works with the ez @ 7.2v. But 6 isn't enough. Using the signal wire with the set(d1,on) commands.
I added an extra cable and plug to the camera trigger I got for the Nikon in Seoul yesterday. Now if I want, I can unplug it and still use the trigger button on its own.. I hate waste!
Now to put it all together with the panorama robot. Just got a couple of minor things to print first. Should have it ready to test by the end of the day!
Got options for normal, HDR and quick capture so far. A reset button to go home / abort capture.
Printing the final parts now. The camera mounting parts are being printed in ABS. I am printing with 100% infill and think I might give them an acetone vapour treatment to make sure they are as strong as they can be. I hate that part! I will carefully test it all first though.. Down to the last minutes of printing
Note the new tripod mount too. It now screws directly onto the tripod.
The ones that came with the servo are quite flimsy. Will try and find something metal / stronger design.
Will try both later and see if I can get better results with higher quality / stronger built pots!
Some batteries have problems with international travel at the airports. However 6 rechargeable 1.2v aa batteries should make up the voltage, and never had a problem with them at airports.
Have to do more research this week about this.
The plan is to take the final one around Europe this New Year for three weeks, and the UK for two weeks for a proper field test. Not long left!
I will take a few spare parts and as many batteries as the airline will permit.
It's really nice now! Busy for a couple of days but will put a video up before the weekend with any luck.
I may had damaged the old pot too. I had the shaft of the pot inside a 10mm shaft, supported by a bearing, but I think it still had a bit of strain on it.. I am just not good with the fiddly little things >__< damn sausage fingers! haha
My code is so simple compared to most projects here! No ai for a start.
Looking at what people have achieved here is really inspirational! There really are some clever people around.
I would love to build another robot. I was working with air muscles a while back. Trying to figure out a decent control system using valves controlled by servos.
Might have to come back to that when i'm done with this!
Sunday I can do my first field test if weather permits! Then back home for processing the photos!
So I'm on my backup now while I wait for a new motherboard. Damn!
Anyway!
The battery is working great and seems to last a long time too.
Now I have to print a few final parts for housing the electronics and battery.. Tidy the cables etc..
The releaseall() command was a stroke of genius.. Thank you for making it so easy!
Added a time exposure button too. Might add a slider for changing the timed exposure setting..
Bit noisy during morning prayer at the local temple! They were lovely and brought me some coffee out
Thanks so much to the community / management for all the help. Your help was just the right amount to guide me in the right direction.
The ezrobot is a great piece of hardware. The software helps make it so easy to turn your ideas into something real!
Thanks!