
PRO
Herr Ball
USA
Asked
— Edited
Less then $200.00. I'm sure it's not that great but do you think it can print a good table top Inmoov head?
Thoughts?
Less then $200.00. I'm sure it's not that great but do you think it can print a good table top Inmoov head?
Thoughts?
I didn't mention explicite that the Anet is a Prusa clone (and so are many others). To me it seems obvious that by now everybody is aware of that. The CR10 was also one of my favourites, especially for the larger print volume. However, I don't really exceed the dimensions of the Anet A6.
my 3d printer knowledge is very limited...
The original Prusa ($600): https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html
1) If all the other prusa I3 are clones, are all the same quality or there is a recommended clone (cheaper but good quality) ?
2) If you have $600 to spend is the original prusa the best option ? the Robo 3d R1 (https://www.amazon.com/ROBO-3D-10x9x8-Inch-Printer-A1-0002-000/dp/B0142PHFVU) (fxrtst has one) same price interval.
Hello @ptp, Having a clone, I am unaware of the quality issue of components in a true Prusa vs clone. I do know electrical connections on clones are poor and when I built my kit the first thing I did was to re-crimp all connections and inspect all soldered wires. I found many bad connections which would have caused many issues.
Some clones use printed parts in the extruder area. If you run abs, the printed components degrade due the higher temperatures. I purchased an aluminum extruder assembly which eliminated the extruder problems.
Open frame printers allow air circulation around the part which causes warping issues when using abs material. I assume even a Prusa would have this issue. I resolved the problem by building an enclosure.
General replacement parts are hit or miss. I have had good luck buying generic parts. I perform preventative maintenance regularly which includes lubricating rods, tightening electrical connections and mechanical assembly.
I hope this helps answer some questions.
There are many clones, some of them are very good and print excellent. One very decent brand/model is the 'Black Widow':
3D-Printer Black Widow
It's up to you to decide if you want to spend 600$. I bought the Anet A6 rather cheap, from my expirience now, I would buy something different, a little more expensive. Not necessary 600$. It all depends on how much printing you're going to do, the dimensions and what kind of material you want to use.
@ PTP when it comes to 3d printers you really do get what you pay for. The Chinese knock offs are ok for wannabees and do the Job, maybe OK, but an original Prusa will do it right everytime(almost).
I went with my own design for my two, 1 large and 1 small, but went with high quality parts (I'm very fussy) so maybe about $600 in parts for each. 1 has over 1500 hours on and the other about 1200 hours with little issue.
Andy has it right about an enclosure for ABS,
Things like threaded rod vs acme screws for the z axis , undersize power supplies, cheap shaft couplings, threaded rod frames, weak construction, are things to watch out for. Check out videos of reviews on printers that interest you. I looked at many and checked reviews before I bought mine.
Buying a decent quality printer with the idea of upgrades keeps the cost reasonable. I don't know if the Prusa has a aluminum extruder, but it's a $30 upgrade I was happy to make. Adding a piece of window glass helped a lot.
Very important is the build area. 250 x 200 x 200 is a nice workable size,. Most are 200 x 200 x 180 which are tight but do most jobs.
I enjoy drawing up a part, in tinkercad, putting it in Cura, to an SD card , in the printer and in a while there is my part. I don't want to have to play with the printer settings and adjustments to get it to work. I just want my part.
I do want to be able to fix it if it breaks too. Yes I have a couple extra nozzles, heater and thermal for the extruder. Also a limit switch and some belting.
That's about it.
Since the MK3 is out the price of the original Prusa i3 MK2 dropped significantly, go for the real deal...auto meshbed leveling, skewed axxis correction, heated bed, no abs juice or gluestick needed and all the parts are high quality, so you will not have to rip the printer apart to replace parts all the time.
I know an enclosure is best ABS, but I get good results if I print a bit of brim...
Oh and btw, Prusa mad their own slicer edition fine tuned for their printer! I like the idea to support a nice small company, rather than buying chinese stuff...