Ok the baseplate has both track side connected. Now I need to drill holes, put in a nut spacer and bolt it to the body. I got glued the plate in place just to sit still while I drill out the four holes and I also need to drill a hole for the power wires to pass through
the rear sprocket seems to mech with the tracks well. They each have a metal pin about the same thickness as a rod on a watch band. They can be pushed out with a tool then hammered back in to add or remove links. I had to remove 5 to get these as snug as you see them here.
I have 10 3mmx5mm neodymium magnets superglued into the edges of the body and in matching locations on the locking lid too. It holds even it you flip it upside down. That should be good enough.
Getting the EZB and a classic L298N mounted up with 3mm self tapping screws. The leads on the batteries are super long until I test the movement of the motors at 6 volts and 12 volts.
Power switch installed in the center rear bottom side of the robot. I got everything wired to test, but I intend on shortening the motor power/ drive wires after I know which configuration is correct. I tidy up and tin the tips with solder.
Woops, after charging the battery I dropped the full sized usb male end in the robot aaaaaaand sizzle. The IO Tiny Unalived itself from the created short on the pins. I hooked up the L298n and the joystick worked to control things in the exact opposite I wanted. I usually use a sabertooth. Anyone have a quick tip to arrange wiring l298n correctly so that forward is forward, left and right corrected?
The next prints GCODE preview
little hints little hints
only 4 hours and 23 minutes , UGH , I can’t stand waiting.
Ok the baseplate has both track side connected. Now I need to drill holes, put in a nut spacer and bolt it to the body. I got glued the plate in place just to sit still while I drill out the four holes and I also need to drill a hole for the power wires to pass through
the rear sprocket seems to mech with the tracks well. They each have a metal pin about the same thickness as a rod on a watch band. They can be pushed out with a tool then hammered back in to add or remove links. I had to remove 5 to get these as snug as you see them here.
The EZ Robot machine vision Cam to standard T25 spindle servo adapter is about to be done. I’m printing it next..
I have 10 3mmx5mm neodymium magnets superglued into the edges of the body and in matching locations on the locking lid too. It holds even it you flip it upside down. That should be good enough.
Getting the EZB and a classic L298N mounted up with 3mm self tapping screws. The leads on the batteries are super long until I test the movement of the motors at 6 volts and 12 volts.
Power switch installed in the center rear bottom side of the robot. I got everything wired to test, but I intend on shortening the motor power/ drive wires after I know which configuration is correct. I tidy up and tin the tips with solder.
A beer home delivery bot. When can I expect my delivery?
Woops, after charging the battery I dropped the full sized usb male end in the robot aaaaaaand sizzle. The IO Tiny Unalived itself from the created short on the pins. I hooked up the L298n and the joystick worked to control things in the exact opposite I wanted. I usually use a sabertooth. Anyone have a quick tip to arrange wiring l298n correctly so that forward is forward, left and right corrected?