hi smiller29

very nice project .  wel explanned topic and great pictures .  thanks for sharing . 

Hi there,

I also have the Creality - Cr 10S pro v2 printer

my settings I use is:

"glass" bed = 87 nozzle = 237 speed = 20 to 60 max fan off Z = -2.29

I also use PETG filament - using the Ultimaker Cura 4.8 for settings, slicing etc...

good luck with your project - looks great so far

EzAng

What fun! It looks great! Please keep sharing. I'd love to see how those eyelids look in a vid when moving when you get it programed.

EzAng,  I have made many upgrades to my CR10s pro V2,  I use the Wham Bam printer bed, Micro Swiss 4.0mm Hot End, Bontech direct extruder.  I use PrusaSlicer nozzle 235c Bed 85c The following are the key settings I use.  I hope these may help others.

Dave,  I will make sure to add videos once I get deeper into the project.  Here is a link to the eye mechanism I used as a baseline for my remix.

https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Compact-3D-Printed-Animatronic-Eye-Mechanism/   Will Cogley has done a great job outlining his project and I would recommend you check it out.

Wow, wonderful design in that video. Looks lifelike.

I wish I were that organized! Right down to the connectors - wow. This is going to be a fun build to watch.

DJ, Trust me if you saw my work bench you would see I am not that organized...  But I hope to improve once I can get some of these parts put together. I just need to get a few more thing to start more of the assembly.

Great going, you are seriously invested in this, all my best to you!

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Trust me if you saw my work bench you would see I am not that organized... But

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LOL! I hear that! I get so excited to move along with the actual work I have a hard time keeping things neat. When I start losing tools that's when I need to stop and clean LOL

Here's my inmoov build. It may be of help.

https://synthiam.com/Community/Robots/Inmoov-Conversion-321

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Here's my inmoov build. It may be of help.

https://synthiam.com/Community/Robots/Inmoov-Conversion-321

Can I ask you what parts you used for your stand? I need to build mine soon.

Update 3/1/2022. I updated the above project supply list with another 800.00 in supplies for my build. Estimated cost for this is going to be about $2100.00 at this point.  But time will tell LOL.

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$2100.00 at this point. But time will tell LOL.

Have fun and enjoy!!

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LOL! Ya, I'm sure you'll find something else to throw in there that will boost your cost. Then there comes the upgrades when you think you're done.

I want to print the butt mod but I can’t find a picture of it on the robot and it will take just over a spool of filament to print it.  That could be pricey test print if I don’t like it or it does not work.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3326429

hi smiller29

is this what you need ?

inmoov parts 

Nomad 6R,  I was looking for a picture of the butt link I had posted mounted on a robot.   But the link you shared was a help it  showed me a few things I was questioning so thank you for posting it.

InMoov Butt Cheeks

Update 3/6/2022 - Well I decided to go for it and I started to print these parts it looks like it is going to take about 4 days if they print with no issues. Will post pictures when done.

Update 3/12/2022 - The butt has been printed and I have to say I think when put together it is going to look really good the and the other good thing is it addresses the poll mount for the stand.  It took 1197 grams of filament to print it and like 4 days.  I now have to find a bolt along enough to bolt it together. I will post a picture when it all together.

Update 5/15/2020 - After working on the legs this part looks like it is going to need a lot of reworking to make it work correctly with the legs using the threaded rod.

Why not take a mold of your own butt and use that?

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Why not take a mold of your own butt and use that?

OK I have another question now that I have started to put MRB1 together and with luck should be able to start working with ARC and Skills.   For those of you that have made the Inmoov robot what are the skills I should be looking at using in my programming?

I haven't built and programed an Inmoov. However I did build a full sized Lost in Space Robot from the 60's tv show.  He has lots of moving parts using DC motors operated through motor controllers. I also use lots of servos, mostly in the arms. I don't use any movement panels. Only one Movement Panel is allowed per project. Most everything my robot does is scripted using ez script (I want to start rewriting them in Javascript).

As far as my arms, they are a mix of large DC Windshield Wiper motors for the elbow movment because of the heavy weight of the arms and HD servos for the wrists and claws. I found the best way for to move these complex arms with the mixed kinds of motors was to set up AutoPosition skills for the servos and have a separate EZ script for the DC motors in the elbows. That DC motor script resides in the AutoPosition skill for the arm's servo movements. Triggering it from there keeps the DC motors of elbow's synced with the servos in the arm. It's a balancing act but with some fiddling with the timing of the DC motor script I get a nice effect.

Your Inmoov is much less compacted then my approach as you have full servo control in your build. Your guy weighs much less. If I remember correctly the DC motors of my elbows are lifting 5 pounds. You should be able to animate everything you need throughout your whole robot by using the AutoPosition Skill.

I hope this somehow helps.

Hey Dave thanks for your comment and BTW your B9 is really cool I loved that robot in the show growing up.

Being new to this hobby and ARC I am not sure where to begin.  I think the Init Script skill is where I need to start.  Is this the skill that help you develop the init script for servo limits and start positions for the Robot?   I need to address the basics first and then link in other skills.

I need to understand how ARC works with relation to event processing with many skills running at the same time and how skills can talk to each other and how sensors are monitored and trigger responses.

Hey, thanks man for the nice complement.

Humm, no, I think I didn't add an INT script until I got my servos installed and set the limits in the servo controls themselves. I started my INT script very small with the servo positions and speeds first. I really started using the  INT script when I was ready to have to robot's EZB's connect to ARC.  Then I added to it as I developed the robot's systems. I didn't learn about setting the min/max limits until later when someone (maybe DJ) suggested that it would be possible to do in the INT Script. The whole thing was a very pleasant learning experience. In the end that is where I set all my variables so they are ready to use, do start up animations and voice clips for the robot, initialize and set up Uart ports, motor controllers, connect to the EZB's, and start up positions and speeds for servos and DC motors. Probable more.

You will have to start setting up your AutoPosition boxes. I developed these images a while back which might be of help to you.

https://synthiam.com/Community/Questions/Inmoov-Autoposition-Background-Images-3951

Perry

Hey Perry,   Thank you so much for hooking me up with these.   I am sure as I get into this more I am going to be asking you for help.

There's an excellent getting started guide: https://synthiam.com/Support/Get-Started/how-to-make-a-robot/make-a-diy-robot

But really, you'd start like Perry said with the Auto Position robot skill. This one here: https://synthiam.com/Support/Skills/Servo/Auto-Position-Gait?id=20314

That gets you moving servos. Once you get servos moving as animations, you can add speech recognition to trigger the animations. Then you can add the camera to start tracking things and recognizing you.

Once you get familiar with those features, you can use the Conversation Menu to interact with the robot. For more complicated tasks, use the Task Script to achieve them.

DJ,  Thanks for the feedback I will check all this out.

So DJ or others,  To do what you are talking about above what are the best skills to use?  There are many to pick from so which ones offer the best results?  Because I am a long way from having arms and hands the focus is going to be getting the head animated and some sort of chatbot or AI I also like to get tracking and such also in place because the camera and other sensors will also be in place in the torso.    I have been reading about many of the skills at this point but because I am still wiring things up I have not been able to really do any programming or experimenting to date.

if you want animation, camera tracking, and chatbot. Then you need the auto position, camera device, and choose what ever chatbot you want to try.

DJ,  thanks for your reply. 

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if you want animation, camera tracking, and chatbot. Then you need the auto position, camera device, and choose what ever chatbot you want to try.

What’s the best tool in your shed? The best tool is the one that’s made for the job. There’s no best robot skill.

I think the best way to start for you is to learn the Auto Position and get servos moving. That’ll get you familiar with the ARC program and how it works.

Then add the speech recognition to triggers servo movements by voice. That’ll teach you how ARC robot skills talk to each other

Then add the camera device. Because that’ll teach you how to use the camera.

After that, it’s figuring out what you want the robot to do. Like maybe you want to control it with virtual reality from another room? Or maybe you want it to drive around your house and understand what room it’s in with a lidar?

There’s an infinite number of things you can do with arc. That’s the best part of the adventure

I understand why you don't want to keep paying for subscription to limit the skills you install due to cost. May I make a suggestion to look at this a different way? Why not build your robot using as many skills as you need to get it to work the way you want it to work. A free subscription is very limiting and I really think you will become frustrated and disillusioned. Why not get a year's Pro subscription? This way you have time to explore and learn all the offered skills and build your robot the way you want. Then, after a year or when you are not going to add anything more you can switch over to the free Runtime subscription. This is my plan. However over the years I've learned that the building of my B9 Robot is never complete. LOL. This doesn't mean I can't switch back and forth or even get a monthly subscription to make some changes.

Dave I have a pro subscription now and I will most likely will keep it going forward.  But some of the skills look like you need to also pay to use them over and above the pro subscription if I am reading them correctly.

Out of the 800 robot skills, I think there are only 4 or 5 that the 3rd parties charge for them. I think the only ones are...

• Advanced Bing Speech Recognition (but you can use the regular Bing speech recognition because you have a pro membership)

• Pandora Bot v2 (but you can use the regular pandora bot)

• Google Speech recognition (I've never used it)

• sighthound (But you can use the cognitive vision instead)

There might be a few others, but there are free substitutes. We're not in control of how 3rd party businesses run their business and what they charge - so the few that charge additional is their choice. But there are always free pro versions of the same thing Shrug

OK DJ,  that helps. I am just going to keep my questions on hold until I get to that point in my build and stop trying to plan ahead when it come to programing this thing.

Update: 5/3/2022:

Well had more printer issues with my MicroSwiss hotend getting clogged up printing PLA so I have decide to upgrade it to a Mosquito Magnum Hotend on my BondTech extruder.  I can't seem to locate my cutting guide for the PTFE/Capricorn Cutting Fixture to size the Capricorn to the right length so I am not sure how I am going to get around this, but I am sure I will find a way.

Update: 5/8/2022:  My new hotend came in yesterday and I have installed it and calibrated it.  I needed to have 5mm of Capricorn sticking out of the top end of the hotend. So far it seems to be working well I have printed the bottom battery door and a power supply end cover so I can get that all closed up to make it more safe.  I will be printing the top door for the back torso next and then move on to the last foot so I can complete the legs.  I will add pictures to the project page soon.

Just a note:  I use the Wham Bam build plate with PEX and this works great for PETG and everything else but PLA. To print PLA without issues I needed the PC Build Surface for things to stick to the bed when printing PLA. 

I have also been working on the wiring and so far I am happy with my progress.

I just realized that I'm not getting notifications for this project, probably because I hadn't commented yet

Excellent work @smiller29 I'm glad to see people such as yourself still building and improving on the inMoov design.

Thanks for the update on your hotends, if I move over to PETG I can see myself having to switch to all-metal hotends. I'm still debating about making the switch because all the printers I use are all tailored to PLA.

hi jeremie

i dont get any notification for very long time . i thought synthiam had stopped with sending notifications  ?

smiller29

wow you are going fast whit your inmoov . love the mustache .

@Jeremie/Nomad 6R,   thanks guys I have been getting notifications to anything I post to but that all.   Jeremie what kind of printers do you have?

Yep, I get update email notifications for every thread I’ve ever commented on. I believe it’s a setting in your profile.

I have the access to the following printers:

Makerbot Replicator 2 Makerbot Replicator 5th Gen Makerbot Replicator+ 5th Gen Elegoo Neptune 2S

@Jeremie,  Wow those are some really nice printers!!!  You really must like this 3D printing stuff LOL.  Well I can understand why you don't want to mess with your configuration.  The only thing about PETG is that it is less apt to crack than PLA meaning it gives a little bit more than PLA and because you are fitting so many part together that are designed to fit tight you may have less issues with PETG.   But with that said there are many people that build InMoov's in PLA.

In any case you have some great equipment and maybe some day, I will get one of those bad boys for myself if the wife will let me LOL.

I have to many hobbies that cost a lot of money...  Ham Radio,  RC,  Computers, 3D printing, Precision shooting, Harley's, Jeeps and more....

....lol, it is fun having many hobbies for sure. Mine,,,, robotics, RC precision flying, 3d printing, Nscale trains, photography, model rockets.... just a few

I have been working on deciding if I want to use the Inmoov hand in my build or one of the following hand designs as a baseline.

Parloma Hand v1.0 beta 2

This hand is able to support the most gestures of everything I looked at and is designed to work with Inmoov it adds three more micro servos to each hand.

Or HANDi Hand Project where I have access to all the development files on GitHub https://github.com/blincdev/HANDi-Hand#handi-hand

The biggest issue with this design is the servos (HITEC HS 35-HD) used in this design are no longer made so it needs to be modified to support HITEC HS 40 nano servo's that are slightly bigger. Based on my first test I think they will work. what is cool about this hand is it uses zip ties connected to the servos to open and close the fingers and thumb. The other nice thing is it puts everything in the hand and it is also designed for presser sensors in the fingers tips.

If I use this I will be making the design a lot less complex.  My issue is I am still new to Fusion 360 so making the changes is going to take me some time.

I would love to here your comments.

Having the servos in the hand will make it heavier though. I don't know what servos you are using everywhere. You may not be changing the weight of the finger servos themselves. However, keep in mind that moving weight from a spot closer to the elbow out towards the end of the arm makes a difference. More so when the arm is moving.  Will your shoulder and elbow servos be able to lift the extra weight?

Edit: I did take a look at the finger servos your going to use. They are so tiny that the added weight at the end of the fulcrum probably wont matter. Just something to keep in mind when designing something like this.

Dave Thanks for the feedback the servos I am looking at are Hitec HS-40 nano servos that our 0.17 oz (4.8g) so they are very light and should not be an issue.  But to use them I need to redesign the mount of them in the hand because they are just a little bit different the the HS-35's that got used in the design.  My issue is I am still not proficient using Fusion 360 so making the changes is going to require me to learn how to do it unless a member here can help with that effort.  We have all the STEP files for every part of the hand and I also have the STEP file for the HS-40 servo.   Just need some help making the changes.

The below part is one that needs to be modified

I also talked to the guys working on the Handi-Hand project and they are also working on a new design using other servos they hope to have ready in the fall so depending on how that goes I may pivot again...  

smiller29

are these not good ?

hs-40-nano-nylon-gear-servo

or

hs 35 hitec 

They don't make the HS-35 anymore they replaced them with the HS-40 and the case size is not the same.

HS-35 = 18.6mm x 7.6mm x 15.5mm HS-40 = 20mm x 8.6mm x 17mm

@smiller29 You are making great progress. I will add this bit of wisdom I learned when building my inmoov and it's not really my wisdom, it is Gaels. Putting all the servos in the hand will add a lot of weight to it and when you get your bot moving and the arms swinging you will see that it is really delicate. That is why he had the servos in the forearm. I tried many hand designs but the lack of precision during movement and the fragility of the arms really limit things. Not trying to be a downer, just passing that on.;)

Perry,  always good to get the feedback and I may be going down the wrong path but I really feel this is going to work better in the long run.  Well I hope so.

I am also working on a design to replace the shoulder and arm assembly with planetary gear systems that should make them stronger as a side project.  Going forward right now I will build him out with the standard parts as I have already printed them, and have the servos for them.

Gaels work is great but me being who I am makes me want to tinker and tweak stuff.  It maybe a complete fail or a complete success only time will tell.

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Gaels work is great but me being who I am makes me want to tinker and tweak stuff. It maybe a complete fail or a complete success only time will tell.

The following is in concept what I want to do if I can in the future.  Please check it out if you have time I have attach a few videos.  He also has a new updated version I am going to use.

I love the Teflon tape idea he uses. I'll have to keep that in mind!

Love this post / build! Great list of stuff you have used, tools and electronics. It's really helpful for some one (like me :-)) who is starting out.

Cheers and look forward to more posts!

Jonno.

Well I am happy to report the MRB1 Butt has been printed !!!!  YAY!!!!  After  1 and 1/3 spools of filament and 3 days of printing we have one pricey Inmoov sugar plum LOL.  Don't ever want to print another one of these...  Just need to solder the pot for the waist and mount the butt to it after that we add the legs.

I went to the store and got the threaded rod for the legs just need to paint them and put stuff together....

smiller29

eureka smillers29 but is reddy .xD . congrats .

Congrats! There is a Kardashian.stl file that takes 5 spools of plastic to print.

Good one Perry!!!

Well I have been working on a new shoulder drive and I am getting very close to having something that just may work.  I am still working out the servo pot setup but I think I may be able to make things work...  fingers crossed anyways.   Here is what I have so far...  Doing this stuff in Tinkercad has been challenging to say the least...  I need to really learn a CAD program!

It should have 3 times the torque of the JX servo PDI-HV2060MG 62KG Metal Gear High Torque servo I think the speed of movement should also be an improvement but time will tell.

hi smiller29

that looks very promising . am going to change my inmoov to . using gears in waist and shoulders insteadt of taking the pot out . did you ever use flex filament ?

To answer your question no I have not.

This gear will be the outer most rotating part the teeth on the outside of it I am planning on having a spear gear connected to the pot. I also will be adding 4 holes in the below gear to connect it to the rest of the arm.

If I am understanding your design you are adding a planetary set off a servo. Is it a 4:1 reduction? If so you will increase the torque by 4 and reduce the speed by a factor of 4. That will yield a very slow arm if I am following your design intent correctly.

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If I am understanding your design you are adding a planetary set off a servo. Is it a 4:1 reduction? If so you will increase the torque by 4 and reduce the speed by a factor of 4. That will yield a very slow arm if I am following your design intent correctly.

Do you know what the ratio is on the Inmoov arms by any chance?

I pulled out some old shoulder joint gears I had and spun em up by hand and found the reduction to be 12:1 on the stock inmoov. A little surprised. So now I kinda think it will be undergeared and not have enough torque. We'll see, those servos are monsters but it's still a servo. The motors inside are only so big. Inmoov arms cry out for BLDC motors/encoders with 3:1 reductions like James Bruton uses in his projects. The $$ will build up.

Perry,  I figured it would be at least 3:1 or maybe 4:1 but did not think it would be 12:1.  Well I think this will be the general design below.   I will have to remove the Pistonbase out of the torso because that will not be use anymore. with the new design I am working on.

The last change it needs will be a second mounting bolt or maybe I will just use the one and pin to lock it.  I need to think about that.

Let me know what you think!

Did you calc the gear ratio or are you guessing at it? You I can't quite count the teeth in your rendering so I couldn't calc it out. I still think you will have a ratio problem but let's see. 12:1 should be the target if you want a stock speed. I found it to be a balance between speed and torque in my designs with speed losing out due to torque constraints. Are you planning a different method to raise the arms at the shoulder joint? Your solution looks rather deep and will interfere with the stock screw jack method.

Looks like you are having fun. Reminds me when I was putting tons of time into my inmoov. Was a fun time. There is still tons of innovation left in the platform.

Small gears are 12 teeth the ring gear is 36 teeth.  I will not be using the screw jack in this design the next part in the design will replace that. I am going to use the same concept... more to come!  I need to order some filament so I can print some parts.

I have so much to complete still and I am jumping all over. I printed the new hand and got a few HS-40 servos to test the design so finger crossed on that.   The FUN JUST NEVER ENDS!!!!

Well, I have completed my design updates for the Handi Hand to support the HS-40 servos as seen below my first try was not 100% correct but this one should have all the correct geometry and clearances needed.

I have also designed a new bicep elbow replacement that will connect to the new shoulder.

I can't wait to try some of this stuff I just don't have enough printers and filament LOL...

@smiller29

That looks like a great design.  Great job!   Looking forward to the completed arm and how the placement of the Pots turn out for the shoulder, elbow, arm up/down and arm rotation.

Cheers

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That looks like a great design. Great job! Looking forward to the completed arm and how the placement of the Pots turn out for the shoulder, elbow, arm up/down and arm rotation.

Hey I have question about to all the builders here.

i need to paint the black patch’s on the Inmoov legs but I have had issue with the spray paint bleeding underneath the masking tape in the texture on the 3D printed parts.

My question is how can I stop this from happening?

smiller29

the only way is to spray multiple layers primer before the color . then tape it .

Oh happy I don’t want to have to paint the complete leg just the black patch areas on the top of the legs.

Thought I would try a first layer of clear to seal around the edges of the tape and hit with black after that.

the problem is when printing you see all lines ontop each other . when painting the paint will follow these lines and dont stop . or sand it real smooth then try . any pictures ?

smiller29

Have you tried "Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Spray can's?  Also try painter's blue tape.  That's what I used, but I spray a light cost first then spray it again.

That is actually exactly what I used and had issues with. But I need to move forward and see what happens

For my legs I used brush on acrylic paint that is commonly available at hobby/craft stores. Multiple coats smooth out really well the brush marks disappear. If you screw up you can remove it with Windex. A spray on clear coat is applied after to control the glossyness and for long term protection.

Yep that looks good I think I am going to go that way much better chance of not screwing it up...  Thanks

Just noticed from the first pic in this thread that you have Hatchbox filament. Good choice, I built my whole bot out of Hatchbox.

Yep I really like that brand. I have had very good luck with it. Only issue is it is getting hard to get sometimes on Amazon with the supply chain delays.  I am waiting now on more black PETG to arrive.

Well the rotating forearm design is done just need to add the new wrist and hand design YaY!!!

That looks great!  Looking forward to a full working arm. Very nice design!

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Merne: Have you tried "Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Spray can's? Also try painter's blue tape. That's what I used, but I spray a light cost first then spray it again.

Shawn: That is actually exactly what I used and had issues with. But I need to move forward and see what happens

Sorry about the lighting in the pictures.  I have very bright LED lights in the garage that causes glare and shadows that can make things look worse then they really are...

Nice job. Gael really did a good color combination with black and white. Just seems to work.

Yep Perry I agree...  I also like the white and grey version of it.

Well I have come up with the final version of the shoulder joint seen below.  90 degree rotation looks to be about 4 seconds and 120 degrees in about 7.5 seconds based on videos I have seen of the standard Inmoov joint this looks like it is running faster.  I have ordered a 180 to 270 converter to increase the range.  It sucks when to buy a servo they say moves 180 and it only really travels 120 degrees.

Had to order a new Raspberry PI 4 today because my 3b+ died that I use for my OctoPrint system. I guess it just could not handle the heat in the garage down here in Florida... It's always something... sooner or later my wife is going to disown me if I don't stop buying stuff

I know the feeling. I'm in Florida also (Cape Coral) and everything I own seems effected by the heat, humidity and salt in the air. Unless it's made of plastic of some kind, a good powder coat or fiberglass it will rust away or burn up. Wood even rots away. Ugh. Where in FL are you if you don't mind me asking?

I've thought about stopping telling my wife when I buy stuff. She really doesn't mind the expense but sees it as an opportunity to justify buying things she wants (shoes, clothing). LOL. I guess it's her way of keeping my spending under control.

Good morn smiller29,

Besides my wife doesn't enjoy all the parts I have purchased in the last 3 years, (she really doesn't say much) one room in my house is totally unusable for everyday use.

I have pieces and parts for years to come  :-)

So, I slowed down my robot inventions. I can always rework some of them.

oh well, rolls back and forward, Jd does all his tricks, with audio

Dave I live about 25miles north of Orlando in Seminole country.

Hehe, EzAng, JD has a nice ride there !

Do you have any pics of your printed gearboxes? Inquiring minds want to know

Here are some drawings of the Joint #2 box and what the guts look like in both Joint#1 and Joint #2. I will post a picture of the print once it comes off the printer today.  Fingers crossed that I will be able to get the servo in it...

It should be noted I am also working on a NEMA-17 version of actuator.

I had a layer shift in my print of the J2 joint so I have to reprint it but the good thing is the servo fits now so that is a good thing...  Picture will follow once I get a good print in about 13 hours from now...xD

OK here are some pictures of the new arm design post printing.  With them being black it is hard to make them out unless you zoom in on them.   I will be putting together the J2 (ADDUCTION/ABDUCTION) joint and the bicep J3 (INTERNAL/EXTERNAL ROTATION) joint as I have the servos for them.  I am still waiting for the elbow J4 (FLEXION/EXTENSION), J5 (PRONATION/SUPINATION) forearm and wrist J6 (FLEXION/EXTENSION) servos to come in.

So far I think this is going to work out....  To install it I will need to cut out the piston base for the shoulders that I had installed in the frame of the torso for the normal arms, so before doing that I want to make sure this new arm is going to work as expected.

NOTE: PLEASE EXCUSE THE MESS!

Now that I have seen the new hand for inmoov I may use that rather than the Handi Hand like I was planning.  I would need to design a new servo bed for the arm using the smaller servos seen below and also rework the new wrist joint I have been working on.   Now I need to order more servo's. $$$

Here is a pictures of the Bicep Joint 3 done with the elbow Joint 4 getting ready to start being put together.

This is the planned J5 joint for the rotating forearm and J6 the wrist for the new arm.   Looks more and more that I am going with the new Inmoov V2 hand. using the above servo bed for the smaller servos.

Well today was a productive day working on the robot.  I was able to assemble the J1, J3, J4, J5 joints with the J2 joint for tomorrows schedule fun...   I need to figure out how I want to run all the wires from the hands all the way back to the EZB4's

Below are some pictures of the completed work. J1 main shoulder join.

From left to right J5, J4, J3

Once I get J2 put together I will add another picture and video of it working.

This J2 Joint is going to be the death of me. I have had to reprint parts because I need to learn to measure twice and print once LOL. So I have another part I need to print as soon as the printer is free You would think I would also learn to lock the embed nuts so they can't fall out like they did to me last night in the J2 joint. So I need to take the hole thing apart again to address that That's what happens when you take short cuts.

On a good note the J2 drive seemed to work ok... The only thing I wish is I could do is get all the backlash out of everything. This is why I really want to make a better gearbox using stepper motors.  I am working on a new box now to try with servos and see if I can improve things.

I just really would like to get the current redesign done and see how it works...  and then move forward from there.

We call this prototyping. LOL. You are doing amazing work.

Dave, Thank you I just hope all this work and money I am putting into this design works.   I have got a new design I am working on using a new zero backlash gear box to replace the J1 and J2 joints if I can make it work fast enough.  Just busy work while the printer is making parts so I can complete testing of the first design version.

I did not realize how heavy the Inmoov arm is until now the J1 and J2 joints really need to be strong and powerful.

LOL. I understand the anxiety that goes along with trying something new. When I was designing my B9 robot arms I had no idea if I could make them work the way I wanted. No one had ever been able to make a robotic B9 arm move like the movie robot's arm did. 3D printing was still an experment and all I had to work with was metal. I had no idea how to make it happen but I wanted to try. I think I went through 5 designs with several different motors before I found one design that worked close enough to what I wanted. Lots of money spent and lots of left over parts but it was a blast learning and somewhat frustrating at the same time. Afterword's I lined up all the failed designs and took some pictures. I called it my "Hall Of Shame". LOL!!

Dave,  the "Hall Of Shame" that's a good one I have a box of shame that's full of bad prints and mistakes in my designs.   What's killing me right now is I have the new parts printed but I can't bring myself to go sit in my hot garage right now and put stuff together.  It's like working in a sunna.  The other bad thing I find myself dreaming about this stupid arm design...  I need to bite the bullet and get-er done!!  But not today.

Again, I understand. LOL. I'm right there with you . Living here in Florida makes it hard to do anything outside in the summer other then float in the pool with a cold adult beverage.

Agreed!!!  you are so right about that.

smiller29/dave

respons to post #106

it good to use your brain when its to hot .  have some water and some rest is golden .

Nomad 6R,  I love Willie LOL.  Maybe today I will try to get down there again and make an attempt at putting it all together.

Well here is my new InMoov arm design almost done with 5 of the six joints done and put together. I have to wait for my servos for the new InMoov V2 hand to come in so I can add the rest of the forearm, wrist and hand to it. I have the J6 wrist joint done just not added to the arm yet. I wanted to make a video but until I can’t until I get the arm mounted because I can’t hold the arm, camera and work the arm to demo it so your stuck with pictures at this point.  I can tell you it seems to work very well and seems to be less noisy the the standard arm. I still need to work out the cable management but I need to get it mounted on the on the torso to complete figuring that part out.  Spent time tonight working on the hand because I needed to make changes to that to support the new wrist joint.

smiller29

that arm looks very robotic . very nice indeed . cant wait to see it in action .

thanks for sharing .

I'm looking forward to seeing this work.

Stop having so much fun!

Would be cool to see some vids of the arm moving.

Perry,  as soon as the servos for the hand come in and I can get it all together and make sure it is all working I will I promise.  This issue is I can’t hold it the camera and control the arm.

Quote:

This issue is I can’t hold it the camera and control the arm.

Dave, I don't have one of those but I hear you.   I hope the hand servos come this week so I can work to get more done on the arm.  While I have been waiting for the servos I have been working on other things for this new head design and new J1-J2 gear box designs and testing.

If you do not have a tripod or other means of holding the camera perhaps we can think outside the box. Maybe a second human being could hold it. There must be one or two laying around until your bot is up and running.

Ok this weekend I will have my wife come down into the playroom and hold the camera. Maybe I will be able to get kind of video I can share with you all.

OK I tried to attach the arm and get some type of video with some help from some kids in the neighborhood so I hope this is ok.

I need to move the J2 joint back to improve the profile from the side.

Now that I see it on the robot I want to make some more changes to the J1 & J2 joints using the new gear box with reduced backlash I am happy with all the other joints.   So let's see what Version 2.0 will be like.   

smiller29

that arm looks awesome . very solid and strong .

Yha! It works! So sweet! So Elegant! I'm so impressed. Nice work.

I like your drive to make it better. My motto is "Good enough isn't". Sounds like you feel the same.

I added his new Junk cup the other day.

smiller29

haha . hopefully it dont itches . or he will have not pla enough .

Vid looks great and +1 for the camera assistant. That's how I started out moving mine, one axis at a time. Now it is time for you to start learning the AutoPosition control so all axis move at once. It really makes the movement beautiful as it expands into 3D. It is an easy control to learn.

I was using a servo tester to drive the servos for a video.  I did not like the look of it once it was on so I have been redesigning the two shoulder joints with a new gearbox.  I just completed printing the J1 joint new gearbox need to build it and test it.

I have completed my new version 2 J1, J2 and J3 joints design and should be testing it soon.  I have changed the gearbox on the J1-2 joints to allow me to make the smaller and to remove the backlash in them.  If I did the math right they should be a little faster than the V1's.  The goal was to lighten the arm if I could and also make it easier to print the parts.  So I also redesigned the J3 joint.   The below is some pictures of the new designs I am working on.

J1 Shoulder

J3 Bicep

Looks like it all is coming together, great work EzAng

Thanks!  I am working on a stepper motor version of the gearbox as another option.  I posted a comment/question in the Stepper servo Skill post but have not been provided an answer yet.  If you have used that skill maybe you could help answer the question @EzAng.

A great site to understand steppers is https://dronebotworkshop.com/stepper-motors-with-arduino/

you said:

Quote:

My goal is to develop a generic gearbox with a ARDUINO, Stepper Driver and Hall Effect sensor in one package that can be set to find home and then use the skill to set the range of motion the stepper motor can move.

https://dronebotworkshop.com/stepper-motor-hall-effect/

there is other stepper motors info there on the site

The step sequences were my problems, but I resolved it

I did get them moving forward and reverse

both the Bipolar Stepper, NEMA 17 with L298N H-Bridge and the 28BYJ-48 Unipolar Stepper with ULN2003 motor driver

the wiring - "step sequence" in the code was the problem at first

My 28BYJ-48 Unipolar stepper motor has a "step sequence" as: 1-3-2-4 or In the code I used 2-4-3-5

in the code it was #define STEPPER1_WIRE1 2 #define STEPPER1_WIRE2 4 #define STEPPER1_WIRE3 3 #define STEPPER1_WIRE4 5 AccelStepper stepper1(AccelStepper::FULL4WIRE, STEPPER1_WIRE1, STEPPER1_WIRE2, STEPPER1_WIRE3, STEPPER1_WIRE4);

Here is my connection, it works both directions

I n1 = 2 pin I n2 = 3 pin I n3 = 4 pin I n4 = 5 pin

*Note: The step sequence for a Bipolar Stepper, NEMA 17 with L298N H-Bridge is 1-2-3-4, a step instance with this in mind.

I have completed the modified V2 hand new wrist and lower forearm of the new arm and it works great using the JX PDI-1109MG micro servos in the lower section of the forearm I am very happy with it. You can view the video here https://youtube.com/shorts/vA_lxd-Cfow

Congrats! Creepy cool! Nice design.

It does look great. I always had problems with my inmoov hands. I would fine tune everything so the fingers would work perfectly then I would rotate the wrist a couple of times and it would be a mess afterwards. Have you actuated the wrist yet to see how that works? I recall you saying you were going to try to put the servos directly in the hand. Still considering that?

Perry,  I did work with Gael on adding the servos in the hand and after a change to his adapter to support the JX PDI-1109MG servos I did confirm that they do work and you get a full range of motion with them.  But with feedback from you and others putting the added weight in the hands was not a good idea.  So with that in mind I wanted to move them as far up the arm as I could.   To answer your question yes I can work the wrist and the hand works ok afterward.  But keep in mind my wrist does not rotate it bends up and down in my new arm the forearm rotates.  I have looked at another wrist that would require two servo's and more strings but it would provide up and down and side to side movement which would cover all the movement of a human forearm and wrist.  I just did not know if I could get everything in the lower arm.

Who knows I may come back and do that at some point.   My real goal is to make sure I come up with a stronger and faster shoulder.

I have been working on the shoulder 30:1 gearbox using a nema 17 the below is a picture of the planed design.  It will be using: 1-DRV8825/A4988 Stable 42 Stepper Motor Driver Expansion Board.  1-DRV8825 driver. 1-Seeed Studio XIAO SAMD21The Smallest Arduino Microcontroller Based on SAMD21,with Rich Interfaces, 100% Arduino IDE Compatible. 1-Mini MP1584EN DC-DC Buck Converter 1-Nema 17 Stepper Motor 1PC/3PCS/5PCS, 2 Phase Step Motor Bipolar 1.5A 59.5oz.in(42Ncm) 42x42x38mm 4-Wire 1-Hall Effect Magnetic Sensor Module 3144E A3144 Hall Effect Sensor DC 5V for Arduino. 1-3x1.5mm disk Magnet

The goal will be to provide 12V DC and USB connection from my LattePanda for to the first gear box on the BUS. Then for all other gearbox's the connection will be 12V sharing the same GND for motors on the serial BUS and the serial BUS wire from the TX on motor #1 to the RX on all other steppers on the BUS.

here is a picture of it mounted on the stepper motor.

Great job so far,

question, what string or cord did you use on the fingers?

EzAng

This is the stuff I used.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P9DNVB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

Thanks for the info

I ordered it

EzAng

Amazing work you have done so far. May I ask where you got the .stl files for the stomach area. I do not want to use an Xbox Kinect so I would like for something to cover that area.

monterdur

here you can find all files .

inmoove

I did not know they had posted the new .stl with no Kinect on this site. Last I looked they only had the stomach with the X Box Kinect. Thank you Nomad I will go look for it.

monterdur

am not sure the files your looking are on that site . but that is the site for inmoove . you can also find files on thingeverse.com

Yeah the files I'm looking for are not on this site. These are the original files mostly. The updated ones are usually on thingivers or other sites. I just found them on thin thingiverse.

Thanks

Castle Link V3 USB Programming KitSmaller29, You've been busy. You must be studying all the time for this stuff. Very impressive list of materials.

I'm currently trying to add limit switches to the rails and carriages that move my B9 arms in and out out of his torso.  I have a couple questions if you can break away from your studies and building. LOL. A couple weeks ago I also ordered the Hall Effect Magnetic Sensor Module 3144E A3144 after a bunch of searching and learning about these sensors. However I hadn't figured out what kind of magnet I need. I see you have ordered the 3x1.5mm disk Magnet to activate your sensor.  *Where did you order it from?  *How do you plan on attaching it to it's surface?   *Do you know how far away the magnet can be from this sensor before it can trip it? I had planned on setting all this on a breadboard to do real life tests to answer some of the needed questions before mounting. I still intend to do this but your input would be very welcomed.

Also, I see you are going to use a Mini MP1584EN DC-DC Buck Converter. What are you going to feed with this? I see it only has ability to supply 3 amps. This may all you really need but if you need a really tough little converter for anything else I have a suggestion for you. A while ago I found sweet little adjustagle converter that will handle up to 10 amps at 12 volts. It's a Castle Creations CC BEC 10A Switching Regulator and can be found on Amazon. It's kinda pricey at about 26 USD but it's a little beast. I use one on each of my B9 arms to power a servo that pulls about 8 amps when it lifts. The nice thing about this converter is it's a switching regulator. It switches on and off at an ultrasonic speed and is very efficient. Unlike other converters it produces very little heat and will last longer.

The other downside is you need to also buy a seperate device called Castle Link V3 USB Programming Kit to adjust the output voltage. Another 26 UDS. It's very easy to program through your computer. Anyway, here are the links if interested: Castle Creations CC BEC 10A Switching Regulator

This forum seems to not let me post two links in the same post for some reason. Here's the Castle programing Kit link: Castle Link V3 USB Programming Kit

Dave, you did post both links. You just accidentally posted the second link at the top of the response

@Monterdur I made these. Here are the two versions I have attached the Left side to make the right just mirror it.

Sensor L_Plate.stl

Solid L_Plate.stl

@Dave Schulpius you can use larger magnets if you need to.  The sensors below are simple to use you supply 5v and one pin is signal they also have an LED that shows when triggered.  Using these small magnets have the sensor and the magnets about 5mm apart with thin layers of plastic between them and they work with no issues.   You just need to make sure the correct poll of the magnet is facing the sensor for it to trigger.

The Buck converter does not require much current at all to operate this circuit.  I not sure if I am going to stay with 12V for the motors or go with 24V so I can get max speed and torque out of the NEMA 17's I am going to see if 12V gives me what I want but this change should not change anything else.

It should noted that you can drive like 5 NEMA 17 motors at once at max speed and load on less than 2.5 amps at 24volts.

Hall effects 3x1.5mm disk Magnets

Amazing 3D design work smiller thank you very much. I am a newbie and I have a silly question . If I am planning on building my InMoov with an EZ-B V4 do I still have to hack the shoulder and elbow servos? Not hacking them would only limit the rotation of the arm and forearm correct? I notice when I hacked a few servos they all move according to the potentiometer. I'm having a bit of a hard time understanding how when I move the potentiometer slightly to the right the servo turns to the right without stopping. It only stops when I bring the potentiometer back to the center (neutral) position. So when the shoulder potentiometer moves the arm up what is stopping it from turning once the arm reaches it's full arm extension? The servo is no longer programable you are at the mercy of the potentiometer if I am understanding it correctly.

@Monterdur,  I understand where you are at I was in the same place when I started my project.  This is what helped me get a much better understanding of how to make things work.  I found some really good video sites that can really help you on this project and if you have not seen these them I would recommend you check them out.

Steve Rayner Cyber_One Kyle Campbell To answer your question yes you are going to need to remove the pot and the stops in the servos so they can rotate 360 degrees.

When you relocate the pot and set it position it will control the starting and stopping point of the servo. Think of it this way if you say urn the pot all the way counter clockwise the servo would be stopped at zero degrees if you turn the pot half way the servo would stop at 90 degrees if you turn it all the way clockwise it would stop at 180 degrees note most servos that say they turn 180 degrees don't really have that range of motion.  If you put a servo horn on a servo you can see how this works if you have a servo tester.

This is very good information smiller. Thank you so much. I have not seen any of these videos. I have a lot of very interesting homework ahead of me. Your description is very clear and makes sense. I now have a good approaching point thanks to you. Many thanks smiller.

Just sitting here watching TV with the wife and thought of another new shoulder design that would be really cool but I would have to make a completely new torso and neck for my inmoov build.

Maybe at some point I will build a new remixed Inmoov highbred with some of these concepts that pop into my head.

I had my first experience using ARC working on the development of the gearbox for my new arm design.  With the help of DJ and many others I was able to get the Stepper working correctly.  Unfortunately the gearbox being a 38:1 ratio was not fast enough to meet my expectations for the arm.  I am now printing a 16:1 two stage gearbox to try with the stepper motor I just hope the stepper motor will be able to provide the torque I need.  This is when I wish I was and engineer that knew all the correct math to figure this out without having to guess at it because it sure would save me a lot of time and filament LOL.

Smiller you have mad 3D design skills. I doubt you have to guess much before you get it right. It would not surprise me if you come up with your own robot down the road.

I just did the first test using the 16:1 two stage gearbox and was able to get the speed I was looking for it seems to have the power and torque to move the arm.  The next test will be make a joiner to the V1 arm and see if it will actually works as expected.  So now I am designing and printing the what is going to be the shoulder mount for the gearbox to complete that test.    More to come soon!

Tested the new 16:1 gearbox and it was a fail.  The PETG gears just could not take the weight of the Inmoov arm.  So at this point I just need to walk away from trying to improve this arm. It will require metal gearboxes not 3d printed ones.

Valiant efforts @smiller29 such is life when you are doing R&D and pushing the envelope! I applaud you!

@Jeremie,  Thanks but it is very hard for me to except defeat...   I have ordered a Super servo that is really high torque and I will test J1 using that and see if can handle the weight of the arm.  But at this point with so many fails my confidence is not high if this does not work I will be officially done working on a new arm design.

Agree, a valiant effort my friend

I am sure you visited https://www.thingiverse.com/gael_langevin/collections/inmoov-parts-and-derivatives

https://www.thingiverse.com/gael_langevin/designs

Like the others, I'm impressed with your design and effort. I know the feeling of a prototype fail. I feel your pain. I worked for a year on designing my full sized B9 robot arms. I had many fails as I learned where the edge was and what I needed to make the arms work as I wanted. Many times I had to upgrade my motors and the material and parts I was using to stand the stresses the heavy, swinging arms applied. I hope you don't give up if there is any way to make your dream work. I think our designs are too good to walk away from.

Please excuse this long post and my ramblings but I'd like to share a few thoughts and some experiences I've had that are similar to your project.

I know virtually nothing about 3D printing or the filaments that can be printed. However I have a friend that 3D prints in Carbon Fiber and I have used his geared claws in one of my robots (there was little stress on the gears). I've read: Carbon Fiber is a stiff and strong fiber that behaves like 6061 Aluminum, so it can be used for lightweight components that support heavy loads. This 3D printed carbon fiber can match the strength of aluminum when continuous. Another option for a super strong filament would be Polycarbonate. I read that it's considered the strongest consumer filament out there. I'm sure you probably need a certain 3D printer to use these filaments and don't want to invest in that cost. However there are companies that take your design and print in these medias for you.

I reached this point in my B9 arm prototyping. I needed more strength and more precision then I could provide in my little basement shop using my bandsaw and drill press. I hired a machinist to take my design and build a motor bracket for the elbow that brought my design all together into a working arm. He also helped me source some parts to get the bracket working with the motor. I mention this just to let you know there is always a way. I think you have a great working design but just need a little help moving forward in your prototype building. After I finally had a working arm I had about 5 failed prototyped arms lined up. I called it my "Hall Of Shame". LOL.

You mention that you have ordered a Super servo with high torque. Could you share what you have ordered? I went that route with another part of my robot. I needed to lift a part vertically that was over 10 lbs at different speeds and stop at different positions. Using a super servo like you are going to try worked well for me but it had it's issues.  *It was very expensive *It was noisy *It would leek off and not hold position when power was turned off *It had no feedback for position or speed *It didn't last very long. After a couple years of infrequent use it lost strength and eventually stopped working.  I rebuilt, got rid of the servo and used a car's power window DC worm geared motor. However Unlike you I had lots of room so I wasn't really restricted in this area.

I'd like to validate your mention of another building option. You said you may use a metal gearbox. This is a wonderful way to move a joint that needs to lift heavy weight. With the proper gear ratio it can take most of the weight off of the motor or servo. However the more torque you choose the slower the movement. I have these in my B9 robot's arm. I use high end high power Hitech servos mounted in them. They work amazing and have stood up to a lot of abuse over a long period of time. servo City has amazing servo gearboxes and you can pick any gear ratio you need. One of the great features of using these gearboxes from SC is you can pick one that has a pot mounted on it for position and speed feedback. This made controlling this servo very easy through ARC.

SerovCity Gearboxes

Happy building my friend! Good luck. I'm looking forward to seeing what pops out of your mind next! LOL.

Dave I have ordered these two items 380kg 24 volt servo.  https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256803940067706.html?spm=a2g0n.detail.1000014.7.6a91GSasGSasoe&gps-id=platformRecommendH5&scm=1007.18499.280016.0&scm_id=1007.18499.280016.0&scm-url=1007.18499.280016.0&pvid=bceb03cc-dc34-4663-bebc-6f95f5ff2b99&_t=gps-id:platformRecommendH5,scm-url:1007.18499.280016.0,pvid:bceb03cc-dc34-4663-bebc-6f95f5ff2b99,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238112%231997&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%2146.84%2146.84%21%21%21%21%21%402101f6b516662383789808592ea533%2112000028121741621%21rec

and this super servo 300. It also come come in a 500  https://m.aliexpress.us/item/3256802208243932.html?spm=a2g0n.shopcart.0.0.14aa38daqt699h&gps-id=shoppingCartRecommend&scm=1007.13440.311564.0&scm_id=1007.13440.311564.0&scm-url=1007.13440.311564.0&pvid=3350a3a3-e204-4606-a0c5-199f447b5d09&_t=gps-id:shoppingCartRecommend,scm-url:1007.13440.311564.0,pvid:3350a3a3-e204-4606-a0c5-199f447b5d09,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%2168.0%2168.0%21%21%21%21%21%402101f6b716669678532437726ea7a5%2112000020502823804%21rec&_universallink=1&m_page_id=iymkddfinicaumiy1841f06d5e415c896fdf1da662

the following is a video lifting 23+ pounds at the end of a 38cm arm.  

These two servos will work for me for the J1, J2 and J3 joints the big issue is the elbow I need a linear actuator with position feed back and I have not found one yet that I think will work.

Thanks for the info and links. Wow, that little servo gearbox is a monster. I had considered using one like that a while ago in my robot. I can't remember why I decided not to. It looks like a wonderful solution. Have you figured out where and how to add feedback for position and speed control?

One more question; I see you're ordering the servos through AliExpress. I have often thought about buying through them. Have you had any experience before with them? If so how was your experience and shipping speed? It seems like everything they offer comes from China. They must be the Amazon of the Far East. LOL

The problem I've found with liner actuator's is that they are heavy and slow. There are high speed LA's out there but they are expensive and really heavy. When you find one please share it. I'd love to check it out.

Just another thought and I'm sure you have already thought about this; placing a heavy liner actuator in the arm will add a lot of weight that would have to be lifted. However with the monster motors you linked to that may not be an issue. Have fun!

Dave,  These servo's work like standard RC servo's but include many adjustments in terms of rotation up to 300 degrees. You can find more details if you follow the links to the product page.

As far as AliExpress I have ordered many things from them and had very good luck.  Sometimes you have to search to find the best price and shipping rates but overall I have save a lot of money ordering from them.  Yes it takes some time to get the products about a month normally but I have not found that to be a real problem for me as I have had many other things to do in my project trying different stuff.   Example: I needed to order 20 JX PDI-1109MG Digital Mini Servo's they were 118.00 from AliExpress and would have cost more than 200.00 from Amazon.   The 380kg servo with free shipping is 56.00 from AliExpress and 82.00 on Amazon.

I looked at the 6V servo based liner actuator's on servo City and one of those could maybe work for the elbow and also fit in the bicep.  If I can keep most of the weight around the centers of rotation I think I can make this work.

So for me to try this next design I am looking at about 270.00 in servos for 4 joints.  Then if you add all the hardware and filament purchased for the other failed attempts well lets just say these arms are getting costly to say the least.  But I am kind of like a dog with a bone when I want to make something work.

So when the Super servo gets here this coming week I hope my goal will be to make a J1 joint with it and connect the arm to it and see if it can deal with the weight.  If that works I will order a 380kg to make the J2 joint and test again and just keep moving down the arm until I get to the finger tips.

Thanks for all that useful information. Sounds like you have an excellent plan. I'm looking forward to your posts on this.

Hey Dave put this together tonight while I was watching TV again.  The first three joints using 24V high torque servos.   Just need to figure out the elbow joint.  I think I will have to use a liner actuator for that.  Need to research more on servo City and see if they have something that will work.

Hey, that's pretty impressive. Is that U bracket attached to the servo horn 3D printed or metal? If 3d printed and If you find you need more strength for that part and need to change to metal, perhaps you can print a cover to make the metal u bracket look more substantial. You know, just for looks.

I have decided for right now to just build the stock arms.  I just can't find a solution for the elbow joint there is just no room left in the bicep.  the forearm and hand including servos comes in at about 1.1kg I would need an liner actuator with a 50mm stroke that is strong enough to pull the arm up.  Servo City make some micro actuators I think may work but without knowing the math to figure it out for sure I am not going to spend the money.

I will at some point be starting a new post on another project I will be doing.  The Youbionic X1 build.  The goal with this one is to get it walking.

smiller29

your design are stunning . like it alot .

Thanks but this is not my design it belongs to Federico Ciccarese, Youbionic CEO from Italy.  This is a blank slate so to speak that will come in at about 1000.00 in materials to build.  In this project they use a new control board that I posted a question about on this site because rather than using that software I would like to use ARC in the development because it brings more to the project.  Because this guy is only 40 inches tall there is not a lot of space to mount things.  Using ARC I would be able to add many more sensors to aid in controlling his ability to walk and sense his 3D space around him.

In my opinion this build could really showcase the ARC product.   But more to come on all this later on I need to complete my Inmoov build now that I have decided to use the stock arms for now anyway LOL.

Great work. You have come to the same conclusions I did during my development. Standard servos and actuators are not adequate for an inmoov. Always consider the size of the motor in that tiny servo or any of the ones tested. If you continued I believe you will end up with my conclusion, the only workable option is the low RPM, high torque BLDC motors driven with something like the O Drive. For anything walking, your problems will be magnified. I highly recommend that you watch all of James Brutons videos. I consider him the gold standard of home made robotics.

With your skills you could design a ground up that was informed by James' designs that would be better than trying to retrofit someone elses design they have not been able to get to walk yet.

Thanks Perry,  the problem I am having is really related to trying to make a stronger Inmoov arm that still looks like an Inmoov arm on the most part which I just have not been able to solve.

Gael really did an amazing job coming up with his design using the servos he picked.  I could use another 380kg or 270kg 24volt servo for the elbow but then the arm would not continue to look like an Inmoov arm.  But at some point I will learn the math needed to know 100% what is needed to get the motion I want in the forearm.

On the X1 build I agree I could have probably attempted to design my own but the X1 design is a pretty good starting point.  Also I have seen it walk moving the joints manually though the software so I know it can walk but fine tuning it by adding other sensors to help automate the movement is needed.  There are also others all over the world also working on this task.    But like the Inmoov project it is a work in progress so time will tell.   My first task is to decide if I am going to move away from the groups Software and go with ARC and change the how  we control the bot.

I am having fun learning everything needed to improve my knowledge and skills needed to be successful in this hobby.  It keeps this old man’s mind busy.  LOL

Finally got his stand done!!! I thought I was never going to get this done Now I have to mount the power supply to it and once I get the new head completed and on the torso then I will mount the torso to the legs.

Wow! That is clever Smiller29. You took the base of an office chair; 3D designed and printed a connection to fit the cylinder of the chair base. Then you continued the design and print to the base of the robot. Brilliant, work! I am nowhere near that far but I have often wondered what I am going to use to mount and move the robot with. This is awesome! Your 3D design skills are impeccable.

Ya, that's impressive. Truly functional and nicely integrated.

Am I the only one that thinks that looks like it hurts.

I see the last post was Nov. 2022

It is 2023 now, did I miss your finish of your robot, smiller29?

In my last update above I put this project on hold until I can come up with a new stronger arm.  Currently I am focusing on another project that I also have in the works to build a 4ft tall walking robot using EZB’s and ARC.

I will be creating another post here for that project I just want to get more done on it first.

Thanks for response.

Best wishes

In the past I had a 4-foot metal robot

Hi Smiller29. sorry to bring up an old post. But could you let me know how you modified the chest camera mounting?

I have the same camera as you list in your BOM and have printed your chest camera stl file, but not sure how you mounted the camera.

Cheers.

Jonno.

I used hot glue gun to mount it in the chest part.  I hope that help you.

@smiller29 Where have you been, I was following all your stuff and you ghosted us!

@Perry,  I have been around I have just put my Inmoov build on hold because I am still wanting to develop new stronger arms.

So in the mean time I have been working with a friend in the AU to develop a new bipedal robot that is about 4 foot tall called the XR-1.

i will be creating a new post here soon about this project and also sharing the project files with others.  We are currently creating doc’s and putting together the GitHub for the project.  We are working to create a 44DOF biped robot that has a full range of motion and the ability to walk.   I am using ARC as my control system for my build and my partner Chris is actually developing his own software for a second option.

l would love DJ’s Team to work with us to develop a ARC project and skills to build a plug and play solution for the XR-1

Thanks for the update, I am also viewing your progress.

Here is a site you might be interested in - https://agilityrobotics.com/

I wanted to share our new open source XR-1 projects with everyone.  You can find out more at http://www.robotsbuilder.com please stop by and check it out.  We should be posting the files and documentation in the new year for those of you that would like to make another robot.

That's super awesome! I'd like to see how we can help you with it in the new year. What you're building will be a naturally good fit for the upcoming ARC specifically since it's about 1,000 times faster and can handle tighter loops for PID controllers and stuff onboard - which is crazy to imagine. Plus, custom UIs hide the desktop workspace. Well, no spoilers, but I think it'll be a great fit! And it runs on mac, android, ios, windows, and linux (x86 and arm raspberry pi, etc)

Wow DJ that would be great we are looking for a standard control system currently we have many in the works with one of them being based on the ARC application.   The goal is to provide the robot building community a solid foundation for the hobby of robotics.  We want the robot to provide building options from different heads, hands, armor, to include the ability to be bipedal or a two wheel balance base or other as time goes on.

as soon as we release everything we have to date I will let you know and I hope you can build one at your location and become part of the project.

DJ, without giving too much information up.  What would you recommend for the new ARC SBC.  Currently I have a LattePanda V1 should I upgrade this?

I'm sure it'll be fine - it's fast because there's no graphic UI to render as it's browser-based. You could put Linux on it so that it is very lightweight. And because there is no localized UI display, the web browser is used instead. That means you don't need a display on the SBC. Just connect to it from another computer.

Wow that will be a big help!!!

Quote:

there's no graphic UI to render as it's browser-based

LOL @Dave, now that's funny! I brought my laptop to show the guys at EZ-Robot's office today... I think they pee'd a little as well.

Maybe one spoiler...

Wow!!!  this will be a great improvement DJ...  Do we have a timeline on the release yet?

Also one other question why is all the formatting gone in the top of this post?  When I go into edit mode it is all there.

Nice site Smiller29

https://www.robotsbuilder.com/

Very cool site. Look forward to see where it goes. I see it revolves around alot of 3D printing of a bot. Just wondered, what about the design of a bot made of metal ?  Im still a fan of the Actobotics and GoBuilda designs. I do like the idea on incorporating plastic and metal  and big.

@RoboHappy,   At some point we may get to a version that can be CNC out of aluminum for the core but we are not there yet we need to do a lot more testing first.

The first major goal is to it walking and balance control.  The AutoPosition skill with its inverse kinematics will be a big part of getting to this goal.  The other skills within ARC will also provide a rich set of features in the XR-1 build.

Thanks for the screenshot @DJ. It only opens up tons of new questions. LOL. Out of respect I'll try to wait to ask them until you are ready to shire more info on this new interface.

Beta testers needed?

Haha I’m sure there will be no shortage of beta testers so the first release will be community beta for that reason. The existing ARC and this will be able to operate simultaneously.

As for timing, there’s still serveral tweaks that it’s inheriting from its grandad. Existing ARC has 10+ years of user feedback so that logic is being ported in + collection of feedback that couldn’t fit in current arc. There’s currently only a handful of robot skills ported to it for testing. Once the framework is concrete then the job of porting all robot skills over. So we’re planning on community beta in first quarter of 2024

Just being curious,  Is a Bipedal version going to be the only model to be introduced? What about a wheeled version also ?

The goal is to have many options for builders.  From legs to tracks to wheeled. This is open source so we hope members will help develop options for the platform going forward.

smiller29

maybe i asked before and forgot . can you share the stl for the junk cup ?

The attached is the plain junk cup you will have to add a means to mount it.  On my build it is attached to the Butt.

InMoov Junk Cup.stl

If you want the butt and the cup for it I can provide that.

smiller29

thank you .