hi jeremy

i would use PTEG for sure .there are alot of part withs it will make the body very heavy . i started with the waist and build up . i made a stand thats turneble .  the legs are just visual . i think a drive system is better .  here's the bottem part for using a bolt and nut . its more stable .

stand inmoov.stl

stand left.stl

stand right.stl

Hi Jeremie,  I'm very interested in your thread here. You've got some great questions and ideas. I'll be watching to see what is discussed.

I'm not an inMoov builder but they fascinate me and hope to build one or something like it one day. As a builder that has built a full sized robot I've noticed there are lots of similar issues in building and processes that can be adapted between these big robots. The inMoov builders have come up with some wonderful and amazing stuff that I really would love to incorporate into my big guy. I'm currently revamping my robot and most of the thoughts and questions you listed above are similar to my own. For example, I'd love to get into and learn the best ways to 3D print. It would be so nice to design needed parts and brackets instead of making my own out of metals and plastics.

Anyway, I doubt I can offer any better advice then the inMoov builders here will provide or that of your own skills. However I'll keep an eye on this discussion, learn and help if I see a way I'm needed. Have fun!!

OH! Wait!! What is this about a  EZ-Robot prototype high-torque servos any place a HS805BB servo? That opened up my eyes. I'd love to hear more about this new servo. How could it help to improve the current choices that you and other inMoov builders now use in their builds? Can you share a description and the specs? And of course, when will they be available to buy and use? Are you using your new inMoov build to test these prototype servos or to showcase them?

LOL, sorry, you got me excited there. There are so many new and wonderful things to see and touch!

hi jeremie/dave

here's an idea to move the robot .

@Nomad Thanks for the suggestions and the .STL files. I will start trying to use PETG. Any recommendations on brands or common temperature? I'll likely use a wheelchair base similar to what Synthiam has.

@Dave lol I can't say much about the new servos but they are digital, quiet, and have twice the torque of HS805BB servos. It's definitely exciting to have these! It will definitely help the inMoov community have inMoovs that aren't as loud and can allow the arms/shoulders to lift more weight. Yes, this build will be a part of showing what the servos can do, but the real goal is to control a humanoid robot remotely with VR. I hope to show the power of ARC with VR with a full scale humanoid.

I agree that there are a lot of common challenges when build full scale robots. I have definitely learned a bunch through your adventures. Power management is a big one and using multiple EZ-Bs in one design. I'm a novice when it comes to the larger designs. I like to think of you as the master builder so stick around this thread as I would love to learn more. Mechanical design, strength and weight become very important factors in large scale design, these aren't things I've had to worry too much about in the past.

@Anyone I forgot to ask what people use to fuse PETG together, any ideas? I'm hoping for a solvent or glue.

Jeremie,  This is great news I am also building a Inmoov robot (MRB1) currently and have my project posted on the site.  You may want to check it out when you have time.  By the way if you want any of the modes I have made let me know and I will send you the STL files.

1. I have a head printed already, should I continue going from the head down to the stomach?  I started from the head down and now I kinda of wished I started from the bottom up.

2. Should I print the legs or is it a waste of time at this point since they aren't functional yet? I printed mine already but I have not installed them yet.  Based on that I would say they are not needed until you feel you are ready for them.

3. Am I ok using PLA, or should I really get into the PETG game? Or PLA+?  PETG is the best way to go in my opinion.  I use PLA for the outer body plates.

4. I read that 30% infill should be used, is this right or should I go thicker/thinner in some places?  I use PrusaSlicer with 30% infill.

5. Should I use 2 shells when printing or is 3 or 4 better? I use a minimum of 3.

6. What are good methods for propping up the inMoov during the process. I just use my work bench but the STL files Nomad 6R provided look like they would work really well.  I think I may also use them.

7. What type of lubricant is best for the worm gears? White lithium grease?  Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 3 oz Tube, Translucent White url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081JE0OO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8. What are some of the biggest challenges I'll face? Are the hands quite difficult?  Make sure your printers x,y,z axis are calibrated to make fitment of all your parts better.  Also look for things like this:    InMoov Shoulder Piston (PistonClaviV3) no filing or sanding needed InMoov TStoPistonRightV2 + LeftV2 (no sanding or filing required) As far as the hands go I am remixing and designing stuff to make new hands that can do more than the current ones.

9. Do you recommend a particular Youtuber or inMoov build page?  I have watched a bunch and they have helped a lot but at the same time some of them are dated so just keep that in mine when viewing them.

My Robot Buddy (MRB1) in development...

Sorry I didn’t get back to this message until now, got side tracked. Thank you very much for your detailed reply @smiller29 I appreciate the advice!

I was hoping you’d have some advice for me thanks for chiming in! I will definitely take any shortcuts or files you are willing to share.

I’m looking forward to your new hand design, sounds great!

Your MRB1 is looking sharp, excellent work!

@Jeremie, thanks for the very kind words. I think we all are learning from each other. That's what I love about groups like this!

I'm using EZ Robot's current HDD servo exclusively in the full sized B9 robot I just finished rebuilding for a friend. I love how strong and quiet they are. I was considering replacing the analog Hitch servos that I'm using in my personal B9 with the EZ Robot HDD servos, some of which are being used in gearboxes. However, with this new servo coming out I'm going to wait. Need a bata tester? LOL. .

I do have an off topic EZ Robot HDD servo issue I am having with the of servos located in the right wrist of the B9. I'm going to start a new thread about this soon so please don't follow up in this thread. I do not want to hijack your thread. However the issue is that It shakes back and forth when ARC sets it up through the INT script. Seems to be seeking the deadband. Only way to stop it is to release the servo or stop the shaking by hand. This is the second EZ Robot HDD servo I've had in this location as the first one had the same issue. Maybe it's my design. I just wanted to put the bug in your ear sense you are actively prototyping a new but similar servo. A programable deadband width would be great to have.

And @smiller29, Wow! you are a treasure box of useful and much needed info! Thanks for sharing!

@Jeremie, thanks for the very kind words.  I am sure as time goes on we will talk more I can't wait to see your progress.

I only got as far as an arm and I used PLA and a Prusa knock off. it was not very good. I eventually purchased  a genuine prusa i3 MK3S and used prusa PETG and I strongly recommend this path.  It is a little expensive but it doesn’t warp and is pretty strong.

I never got passed the arm as I had a lot of issues with the fingers and I am sure it is a newbie problem with garbage servos and I wasn’t happy with the fact inmoov can’t walk.

we really need an open source walking biped robot. James Bruton did some amazing work with his robot x biped and maybe his ideas could be used to help inmoov walk but inmoov is still a very heavy robot.

I using PETG filament also, works best no smell...

using the Ultimaker Cura for settings, slicing etc...

we figured our for our 3d printer: I am using the Creality - Cr 10S pro v2 printer

"glass" bed = 87 nozzle = 237 speed = 20 to 60 max fan off Z = -2.29

no magigoo printing at a slower speed is so much better

make sure you tighten the printer head (nozzle) so there is no play - tighten everything first

Quote:

@Anyone I forgot to ask what people use to fuse PETG together, any ideas? I'm hoping for a solvent or glue.

SCIGRIP 10319 16 Acrylic Plastic Cement, Low-VOC, Medium Bodied and Fast-Setting, Clear, 1.5 fl oz Tube (Amazon)

About this item High-strength solvent cement for bonding acrylic Fast setting with a working time of 5 - 6 minutes Low VOC content Bonds rigid PVC, ABS, styrene, butyrate, polycarbonate to themselves and each other, as well as other plastics and porous surfaces

@EZAng and @smiller29 Thank you for the advice and information!

From what I've been reading it seems that none of my printers are ideally set up to print PETG. The Replicator 2 would be the closest as it has direct drive but no heated bed. The Replicator 5th Gen printers have a Boden tube inside the smart extruders so I may run into issues running a higher temp, and they don't have heated beds either. The Elegoo Neptune 2S is also a Boden tube (non-direct drive printer), while it does have a heated bed I'm concerned with running it hotter with the PETG filament. I have seen pictures of nasty things happening to Boden tube printers with PETG due to the higher heat.

I think I'm going to risk it and print the inMoov all in PLA since I don't have the capital to buy upgrades or new printers at this moment in time.

Having 4 printers at my disposal does help with shortening the time frame to finish the project. Another positive is that Makerbot printers can print PLA at 90-150mm/s because of their rigid frames so it should speed things up as well.

@Nink I do hear really great things about Prusa printers on TikTok. They seem to be the holy grail of printers, well in the hobby world at least. I feel like if I was serious about printing in PETG I would definitely need a capable printer and would need to invest in something better than what I currently have.

I do like what James Bruton is doing but I'm not a big fan of his style. It seems that he likes to make things oversized a lot of the time and who has time to print everything at 200% scale, ain't nobody got time for that! I do think he's on the right track with his biped but we'll have to see what Gael releases in the future in terms of legs. For the time being, I'm content with rocking a wheelchair base.

good morn Jeremie,

I also watched some of James Bruton's videos, impressive but out of the reach for most people, (room, expense, items, time to build, Ect.)

He does have many ideas.

However, you said:

Quote:

it seems that he likes to make things oversized a lot of the time and who has time to print everything at 200% scale, ain't nobody got time for that

However, I seem to me as an oversized JD robot.  A JD robot can walk with legs and do many things an InMoov can't for testing servos, sensors and controls with ARC. You know better than me all the function a JD robot can perform at a much lower cost. With modifications to JD robot may things can be accomplished.

After building many robots here, storing them is getting to be a big problem in a home when not using them.  I don't have a workshop.

Anyway, all the best to you with the build, planning and learning curve, you will experience.

take care

EzAng

Quote:

James Bruton's videos, impressive but out of the reach for most people, (room, expense, items, time to build, Ect.)

Quote:

an oversized JD robot. A JD robot can walk with legs and do many things an InMoov can't

Jeremie

If you haven't started building your Inmoov maybe you should look into the smaller version some have built on here. Can't remember who off hand but I'm sure a little searching it will come up. If I was to build one I would consider at least looking into it seriously. Just a thought.

All my best to whomsoever wants to build an InMoov.

Dave

Quote:

Could you imagine how big JD's feet would have to be if he was life sized? Also I wouldn't want him falling on me. Keep the grandkids away!! LOL!

Herr Ball - 

Quote:

If you haven't started building your Inmoov maybe you should look into the smaller version some have built on here.

But again, all my best to you

You want to build a walking robot this is a good one.  This robot will be in my future....

Looks good, like to print those legs

Here are some agile robots the walk and work

https://youtu.be/ZiDgBl35yMY

Here is JD serving M&M's around in the bowl before he scoops them up.

https://synthiam.com/Community/Robots/I-Taught-Jd-To-Serve-Snacks-298

Here are some of the things JD robot can do: https://www.ez-robot.com/learn-robotics-creating-a-scene-using-blockly.html

also he feeds a person here

I have a similiar robot to that I built with synthiam but never really got walking well I guess I need to go back to it.

I am a fan for printing an inmoov at .64 scale. It's the perfect size as normal size servos are .64 the size of the large ones an inmoov primarily uses. You will have to do some design work though to pull it off.

Here's mine although I went a different way on some of the design towards the end.

https://synthiam.com/Community/Robots/Mini-Move-project-20395

Thanks for chiming in Perry! You definitely took the scaled-down inMoov in a different direction than I was expecting!

I think I'm going to stay with the life-size scale as I don't want to do too much redesigning and I like the wow factor of the full-scale version.

There will always be a place in my heart for the 0.64 scale version though

hi jeremie

whiths hand are you gonna use ? the inmoove hand or the flex hand ? i made a connector block to use the flex hand on to the original lower arm from inmoove . i will test print in a few houres . you can print the palm in PLA and fingers in flex .

wrist-con.stl

flex hand 

Hey Jer, excited to see what you come up with on this project! You can trust what ever Nomad says as I am using his Imoov head and neck for my West world gunslinger project! He knows his stuff with 3d printing!

hi roborad

thanks for the compliment . am just an hobby printer guy . .

Nomad do you have a link to flex hands build doc.  My inmoov hand was terrible. I found this video is this it ?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n_7N_fpTs0g

hi nick

this is the video . the palm is PLA and fingers are flex . i see here a picture no assemble build doc . some video's . there are 4 diff pose of the thumb .

pictures 

gear mod.stl

here the connect block for the hand to the wrist . you can turn the block 180 if you want . also it has a higher gear . sofar i have only the palm , and block .

Nomad 6R,  I love the plate you created.  I looked at the Flexy-Hand for my build but I don't like the fact fingers don't fully close.  So I have been looking at the following two hands as a starting point of a redesign for my build.

Parloma Hand v1.0 beta 2 

Or HANDi Hand Project where I have access to all the development files on GitHub https://github.com/blincdev/HANDi-Hand#handi-hand

The biggest issue with this design is the servos (HITEC HS 35-HD) used in this design are no longer made so it needs to be modified to support HITEC HS 40 nano servo's that are slightly bigger.  Based on my first test I think they will work.  what is cool about this hand is it uses zip ties connected to the servos to open and close the fingers and thumb.  The other nice thing is it puts everything in the hand and it is also designed for presser sensors in the fingers tips.

Here is the HS-40's in the hand you can see the difference in size the orange servo was the original HS-35HD that they don't make anymore.  All the stand off's need to be changed to support the new servo size.

If I use this I will be making the design a lot less complex.

I would love to here your comments.

smiller29

i see two potentional flaws in the top design . the wires have to very smooth to be able , to let the fingers return to there base pose . 

Yes but in every finger there is a 3mm x 45mm .3 spring that returns the fingers to the home position. The tubing should help in those pinch areas.  But this is in the design phase so anything can happen.  Once I build it I may find it to complex or not.   But the way I look at it is the Inmoov can't walk so I want to try and give it everything I can to allow it to express itself and the hands are a big part of that.

I would also like to get rid of the wrist rotating and make the forearm rotate below the elbow buy moving the servos into the hand it allows me to develop a way to make the forearm rotate.  But this is why the forearms and hands will be the last thing that gets added to my build.

But please continue to point things out because all comments are helpful.

you can see the design from wowwee the robosapien v2 hands . they have little springs on the side  of the fingers  .  you can use tinkercad for pracktise 3d its very simpel to use .

Yes I use TinkerCad now and love it for doing simple stuff but I have been trying to learn FreeCad and Fusion 360.  I am loving this hobby so far because it forces you to learn so many different skills.  My big problem is time LOL.

So if anyone out here know Fusion 360 and wants to help me please reach out!

I'm enjoying the discussion on the hands because that's my biggest worry and the crux of why I'm building a full-scale humanoid.

In terms of 3D design, I've tapped out on what I can do with TInkerCAD so I am graduating over to using higher-level software.

FreeCAD, Meshmixer, and Blender are what I've been dabbling with so far, due to them being free, but I haven't committed to any one 3D-design software yet.

The bonus of FreeCAD is that it is installed with KiCAD to do the 3D ECAD models (3D circuit board view), so because I've started to invest time into KiCAD it's a bit of a no-brainer that I should learn more about FreeCAD.

The bonus of Blender is that it's very popular, cosplayers are using it, animators are using it, sculptors are using it, and support is easy to find.

At this point, I'm ready to invest more time into FreeCAD and Blender. I will likely adopt one of them as my goto 3D design software.

I did download Fusion360 but I didn't feel motivated to go too far with it because of Autodesk's restrictions on files and commercial use.

I've also dabbled with OnShape but didn't like the idea of having to have all my designs made public, especially as a beginner, so I stopped learning how to use it.

Here's a really great video about this whole 3D design software dilemma from a maker's perspective by Maker's Muse:

hi jeremie

i notest that the wrist servo gear ratio is not very good . the hand doesn turn 180 aldo the servo does . is there a another servo for this ?

higher gear if you use the wrist block .

gear mod.stl

hi jeremie

i have an idea . test tomorow for the gears . i just swiths them . if a big gear turns a small gear , the small gear will turn more rotatations . so am gessing the hand will also turn more and have the full 180 . there are holes in the small gear for the wires to go thru . if it works i need to find a way to make a cover for the big gear .

hi jeremie and all .

some major improments . i use the original horns that comes with the HDD servo . cause they are the strongest one . i made an inprint in the gear so you can easly , center the horn on to the gear . second i made the cover for the gear that comes outside , the body . i have made two gears for the wires ( rope ) go's thru . one hole for all wires , or 5 holes for each wire ( rope )  . few test prints to go .almost done . here some pics . cover for gear and inprint horn .

remember the line is a little curved . this hand is original . the curve is on the outside .

her's how it looks the gear outside .

i cant wait to test this .to see how far the hand will turn . earlier it has some 100 degree freedom . i hope for 180 . any idea's are always welcome .  when all is bin tested i will post a zip folder here .

EUREKA.

the hand turns almost 360 with a servo from 1 to 180 HDD .

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/zcX-uIxoHD0

@Nomad, Nice work!

hey dave

thanks . i was surprized that it was possible .

Wow that really looks great nice work!!!

hi smiller29

thanks , glad you like it . a few adjustments to make .

hi all

here some links for tiny screws and a picture how the horn is fitted. first sand the backside of the horn and put the servo screw allreddy in place . use super glue and press the horn in place . when its  dry put some screws in . that prevent  the horn turning loose in the gear .  if you really want to get the horn for never come out .you can use weldon3 .that horn comes never out. you can by weldon 3 on ebay . it comes with a tiny bottles. fill the bottle only a small amount like excample , 3 mm hight .because it evaporates very quickly .after a day or 3 its vaporized . the weldon3 is very thin and , glues averything together . its very liquid . cheap and easy in use .fast drying about 10 minutes . keep the weldon2 in the metal container if you dont use it .

link https://www.ebay.com/itm/400431137312?hash=item5d3b8e4220:g:0p8AAOxy9eVROh9O

first picture .

links for the screws

very tiny screws

https://www.amazon.nl/gp/product/B098NYKZH5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

still one adjustment  to make then i post the zip file .

hi jeremie and all

some last mods are bin made . first the gear cover is alot smaller .

the wrist house is modfied for using the HDD from ez robot or the MG995 servo's .

the green arrows was the problem .

and last the horn house had a dimpel in it for the head of the screw. this make the assemble alot easier . also to have a start gripping the axel from the servo . a tiny hole is there for your screw driver to be able tighten the horn on the main gear . after this the wristblock get screw on the wirst ( calibrate first servo ) then the hand gets glued on , wit weldon3 . its dry in 5 minutes .

here the foto . one window controls the two servo's .as you see in the picture , one servo is checked box . so not need to get the pot out and always perfect position , for bolt servo's . 

here's the video . remember the servo's laying flat with the main gear towarts each other. thats why you check ( box ) one servo so bolt worm gear  turns same direction .

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/GlXBSbqXm9s

hi jeremie and all.

wrist for small cover is reddy .tomorow print first palm in skin color .

here's the zip file .

new folder is comming.

Awesome work @Nomad! Once I get to the arms and wrists I’ll definitely try your new modifications. I just started printing the lower stomach. I don’t think I’ll print the waist portion with the two servos because I don’t see myself needing to turn the upper body much. Nice thing is if I change my mind it’s not a big deal to just print more pieces later.

In other news, I did a deep dive into FreeCAD versus Blender. Turns out that they are quite different in their design philosophies.

FreeCAD uses parametric modelling, which means that you set all the parameters and everything has a dimension and constraint associated with it. It is very structured and all your pieces and features have to link together in a logical hierarchy. It’s quite technical and has a steep learning curve.

Blender uses direct (mesh) modelling, which means you can just start sketching free form. You can edit STLs easily by moving their vertices around with the mouse. Blender has so many features available but if you just zero in on the ones you need for 3D printing, it becomes a whole lot easier.

I have decided to adopt Blender as my new go to 3D modelling program. This video pushed me over the edge

hi jeremie

i tinkering with the gears inside the wrist .i think it can a little better . i post the new zip in 2 houres .

Hi Jeremie,

I have a question for you if I send you a STL file could you try to edit out a bolt hole using Blender for me?   I just downloaded Blender but I need to wrap my head around this tool.  It looks really powerful so I would like to understand it better but I need to make this change fast, so any help can provide would be great.

I want this hole removed and blended in with the rest of it.

I have my email address in my profile so if you are willing to try this drop me and email and I will reply with the STL file.

hi jeremie&all

i finally got the perfect gear for in the wrist . in previous pics above you could see a gap from 2 mm . that gap is gone . i recoment using two component glue to glue the horn in the gear .  remember to put the screw in the horn allreddy before glueing .

here you see the brown gear all the way to the top .

here you see perfect close case . this red case is a test case . 

the hand gets glue on with weldon3 . remenber you cant take it appart no more then . when glueing the hand on , you cover up the hole were the screw sits from the servo . any ideas are welcome .

new zip folder send-folder.zip

hi smiller29

i think you can do that in TC also . is it one hole ? i wanna try that if you want .

@smiller29 I can give it a shot but I would encourage you to try to edit it at the same time. It should be as simple as switching to "Edit mode" selecting the vertices that are assigned to the bolt hole pattern and deleting those vertices. Email on the way.

Nomad 6R I can email it to you and yes it just one hole that goes all the way through. Drop me an email to smiller29@mac.com and I will send it to you.

Your butt file looks pretty tesselated in the first place given the way it was originally exported to stl. Can you post the file? It is a simple edit for Solidworks.

smiller29

i had another try . see next post .

hey smiller29

i got this . looks very promising .

stl

smiller-but.stl

Nomad,  That will work I tried last night night in TinkerCad but did not get it this nice so I thank you.  Can I ask how you are able to link files in your post?

To Perry and Jeremie,  Do you think you may be able to get a better result?  If so I will wait for your attempt before I hit the print button...  This part take over a spool of filament and 3+ days to print.  So I only want to attempt this one more time LOL.

hey smiller29

if you ever have time i can show you a trick in TC . see button says {file} klik on that . then you can ad files or folder in your topic .

Thank you I thought I have to upload it somewhere and then link it...  this is much easier for sure.

Perry there is the base file you asked for:  NEW BUTT.stl

smiller29

always check your messurement if you download a file from TC to your pc . sometimes the messurement are diff with some 0.10 to 0.30 MM.

Nomad 6R,  Yes I have noticed that with some parts I have created in TC I wonder why that is?

This Butt part looks good on the Inmoov but you can't use the rods in the legs with it.  The rod can only be used below the knee to the foot if you go with this part in your build.

BTW I decided to go with the Handi-Hands in my build I was able to convert the parts for the HS-40 servos and I will also be adding the touch sensors but I need to figure out how they can be connected to the EZB4's I need to see if DJ or Jeremie has any input related to this.  The other thing I am doing will be to design a rotating forearm to go with this new set of hands.  Then the only other part will be the wrist so I can make him wave so if you have any thoughts on that please let me know.

Once I get things together I will share with anyone who want this stuff.

smiller29

looking forwart to see your hand . it looks sofisticated . consider all the finger servo's are in the hand , you have plenty of room in the forarm for another servo . i think excample a think plate shape arm inmoove , were you can put a servo in . i always use the HDD from ez robot . and a long gear . most problems are wires , thats turns in the arms from all the tiny servo's so you have to guide the wires away from the turning servo .  do you have any drawings or idea ? i think its not so diff and you can use similar like original wrist inmoove . i can help tinkering . i need the stl from frame from your hand .

@smiller29 Worked on the design last night, should be in your inbox!

Quote:

@smiller29 Worked on the design last night, should be in your inbox!

Thank you guys for all your efforts!!!  It is on the printer now printing for the next 2d23h11m....

smiller29

no worries . its all about learning . and it looks indeed perfect .   it would be nice to see how the master did it .

thank you jeremie&smiller29 for the stl .

@smiller29 & Nomad 6R No prob!

While I don't have the time to make a video and show you, I can certainly share the process with you here:

1. It's handy to have the 3D printing plug-in for Blender installed. Search Youtube for guidance, it's easy to install from within the program

2. Import your model and switch to "Edit mode" in the top left

3. Start by selecting and deleting the elements around the hole (delete vertices is best I find but you can also use delete Edges & Faces)

4. You can look inside the object to make it easier to select and delete elements by using 'Alt+B' to split the view (won't affect your model) press 'Alt+B' again to return to the full model view

5. To rebuild the elements that you removed select 2 edges (remember to click the edge selection in the upper left) and press 'F' to add a face (forms a triangle) you can also add edges by selecting 2 vertices (remember to click vertices selection in the upper left) and press 'J' to join the vertices. The join feature doesn't always work but when it does, it's great!

6. Finally use the 'Move' tool on the left side to move vertices outward to make the object more round again

7. I'm not sure if this is required but I used the 3D printing plugin 'Make Manifold' button to ensure that the whole model was watertight so that it is considered a solid part. Go back to 'Object Mode' and export your STL model

I forgot to mention that I’ve started printing the inMoov from the stomach upward. I’m ~25hrs in and I have the section I consider the base printed. I’ll likely have to modify the servo brackets to accept the different style servo but that’s not a big deal, it gives me more practice with Blender. The sad part is that I didn’t anticipate the parts not fitting together well so I’ll have to do some dremelling to get it all to fit correctly.

Progress photo:

jeremie

that looks nice . i believe the dove tails are weid ontop and smaller below . it not much . try to fit the part from above and then from underneed . you have a chance to feel the diff .

OK Jeremie thanks! It sounds like I was kind of on the right path when I tried Blender but must of been doing something wrong because I was not even close to getting the same result. Anyway thank you again. I made the floor stand for it and added the links for both STL files in my MRB1 Post.

Hey I guess you are all in now LOL!!!  FYI when I did the Torso I used the following and it worked good for me...  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2175499. Also make sure you print the no sand pistons for this section https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4837521

Yep, I'm definitely committed at this point

Thanks for the heads up on those files, I'll definitely try them out! Anything that saves me time is quite valuable!

hi jeremie&all

here a great video for assemblt the hand .

delete double post .

website issue,website issue,website issue,website issue,website issue,website issue

website issue,website issue website issue,website issue website issue,website issue

website issue,website issue website issue,website issue website issue,website issue website issue,website issue

website issue,website issue,website issue,website issue

website issue,website issue

website issues needs to be solved.

LOL! This is kinda funny. I'm sure it's a PITA for the web person though.

I was on this site yesterday when it went down. For me things just stopped working. I'm sure they are on top of this.

Things are working now but there still seems to be a few issues though. I keep getting an "Undefined" error message when I post.

hi dave

same here . i found that very annoing . but these things happens .

hi jeremy&all

i notest that having many files can be triky . for the hand i marked the left and right on the print . here a picture from the left hand . i also use 50% infil cause the edges are fragiel .

new gear update .the above folder has the new gear in . i saw some movement up and down .now it turns perfect.

Nomad 6R,  That works really nice!!!  Very nice work guy.

hey smiller29

it was a diff from 1 MM . amazing .

thanks

Well it’s been a little while so I figured I’d post an update on how things are going with my build. I now have most of the parts for the Stomach and lower Torso printed.

The next step will be to modify the servo brackets and worm gears to accept the high torque servos I’m using.

I am also looking into ways to make precision sanding easier for myself. I am thinking about using a palm sander and modifying a reciprocating saw blade to interface with a needle file.

I am definitely open to hear about other precision sanding solutions as I will have a lot of sanding in my future!! The inMoov parts fit waaaaay to tightly.

hi jeremie

those looks very nice prints . for sanding and fit the parts , mostly , sand the corners . parts are not actully round .

Thanks @Nomad!!

Unfortunately, it’s not the exterior faces that I’m worried about but rather the connection points between pieces. They are beyond tight.

did you try to fit ontop and from below ?  i hammered mine in .

Yep the hammer is the only way you are going to get these together

What servos are you using?  And what are they rated at?

You could also try a large pair of channel lock pliers.

I’m looking for less blunt force options I know sanding will help for sure!

I’m using prototype Digital servos rated at 40 kgcm

I think I may have found a couple of viable options for precision sanding:

https://www.amazon.ca/WEN-6307-Variable-Detailing-Sander/dp/B072Q2FTLY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2FH8K4D3LZOH2&keywords=Detailing+File+Sander&qid=1655410792&sprefix=detailing+file+sander%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-6

or

https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Micro-Sander?gclid=CjwKCAjwqauVBhBGEiwAXOepkcFUfXalSdNzLBh-5DpE1Cdj6eSAeAyODdyLwW1LbprHxXBl0oH5NhoCZMEQAvD_BwE

I'm leaning toward the Micromark since it looks like it can really get into those hard-to-reach places......actually saying that reminds me that mechanical toothbrushes could be considered micro-sanders, wonder if there's a conversion kit out there.....

It exists!! Well, a few DIY versions exist on Youtube. There seems to be an oscillating nail file that exists as well.

Oooooh, I found a cheaper and more available version of the MicroMark device, it seems they call them "Sanding pens"

https://www.amazon.ca/8000rpm-100%E2%80%91240V-Polishing-Grinding-Surfaces/dp/B09TQTC64V/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2LMNQ2MNYC3LZ&keywords=pen+sander&qid=1655412290&sprefix=pen+sander%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&smid=A505H0U4TGVUQ&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUDVZRE5JMjRQMEZMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTk2NzM3MlhCQUtFRDJKQTRXQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDQ3ODMxMjZEODNXOEtUNjJTTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Oh that's cool I may have to get one of those bad boys... cool

the fits were also bad for me, I used this:

@UweP Good to know I’m not alone! Actually I’ve heard from several people now that the tight fit is likely by design to keep everything solid.

I lol’d when I saw your picture because I have those tools but they are what I’m trying to avoid at all costs! I know how long manual filing takes, so I am looking for ways to streamline the process. Any time saving ideas are welcome because I place a strong value on efficiency. Funny enough, that is what lead me to working with DJ. His software was so efficient at controlling and programming robots that I abandoned all previously learned architectures to go all-in with ARC (EZ-Build3r back then).

I tried a lot, following the instructions (http://inmoov.fr/finger-starter/ -> calibrator.stl), but it didn't do much. I filed my fingers sore...

I had to sand damn near every dovetail on my inmoov. You get a knack for it eventually. Some I could heat with a heat gun and get them to go. Some I used the hammer, some worked, some cracked the female part of the joint. It was a chore. Turns out that I spent a lot of time calibrating my printer and found that I had printed my inmoov at 1.06 scale. The other issue was that I was getting 'elephant footing' which really interfered with the joints. Any advise I could give is to calibrate well, troubleshoot any anonymous printing conditions, and combine some of the smaller prints prior to printing if your print bed will take it.

It is all about your printer being calibrated correctly.  When your printer is setup correctly the joints will be tight as they should be but won’t need to be sanded. That is what I found doing my build.

Jeremie,  If my new arms workout I have both shoulders and biceps already printed in black if you think you may want them let me know and we can work out shipping.

hi averyone

i found this tabel for using flex filament . if you ever need to print excample wheels .

@smiller29 while I do appreciate the offer, I will be redesigning almost everything in the shoulders to accept a different servo. The biceps I would like to have in white. Actually, I should give you some updates as I am in the process of printing some of the arm pieces while I wait for myself to finish the modifications I need to finish

P.S. I also think I've found a good solution for precision filing, we'll find out tonight! My other solutions have failed me

OK no problem I will just hang on to them...  please post what kind of mods you are making I would like to see them.

I saw on the fb group that some people created their own pcb control board instead of using the nervo board made by Gael. Looking forward to get some AI in the software of inmoov. I even saw a few videos about this you can watch Good luck!

I saw on the fb group that some people created their own pcb control board instead of using the nervo board made by Gael. Looking forward to get some AI in the software of inmoov. I even saw a few videos about this you can watch Good luck!

hey jeremie

here another robot hand idea .:)