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I posted this in the wrong section I guess, but here is a link to my newest bot - RoboRAD. I am combining a RAD 2.0 base and a robosapien.
LINK
By bret.tallent
— Last update
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MP3 with lots of music and nice speakers
EL wire neon lighting
Plasma Ball brain
Camera head on pan/tilt mount
Mechanised tow hook so he can tow a cooler/trailer around
and open to other ideas for cool functions!
I got the legs removed from Robosapien...he looks kind of sad. I think I am going to use the same 12V battery I used in B9 - it works great in these RAD bases and should give me plenty of power for some of the stuff I want RoboRAD to do.
I removed his legs and just set him in the RAD base for this pic, but it gives you the idea. After creating two bots wherein I had to build everything (arms, claws, etc.) I wanted to try out the EZ-B with one of the supported platforms - less building and more programming. I do want to make RoboRAD a cool bot - new paint, new functionality, cool devices. But I think this will be a fun platform to start with. I will keep you posted as I proceed. I think my next step is to remove the RAD labels and run it through the dishwasher. Then I guess I am going to lose the cupholder (like Josh did on one of his MechWarrior bots). More later.
A window:
My bots hanging out:
Here they all are, watching me work - hey, to the left that looks like "a bot and his dog" - sorry for the early Don Johnson reference but I couldn't resist.
And finally I decided to add a picture - this is downtown Albuquerque in the 1960's when I was just a lad there.
my "Bot Cave"
You have a good collection of robots as well.
I like your workspace. I hope to have a place like that whenever I get back.
I think your RAD base would look much better if those stickers can be removed, so it will be white to match the top body, or paint over with black color.
Then cleaned up the opening.
I used a servo horn from the servo I will be using to adapt to the mounting plate.
After cutting it down I was able to super glue it into the mounting plate.
Then attach that to the servo.
And finally attach that to the camera housing.
That will provide the pan to my camera. Next I will mount a servo to the side of this little servo for up and down movement. This whole thing will replace the head on Robosapien.
I think my biggest hurdle is going to be how I drive the RAD section. You can only have one Movement Panel and that has to be the one connected to the Robosapien for communication to it's control board. So I am going to experiment with using the leg motor wires to drive the RAD motors.
Quote:
RoboSapien( RoboSapienCommand )
Send a command to a RoboSapien connected on port D1. Find the available RoboSapien commands further down in this document.
. Example: RoboSapien( WalkForward )
. Example: RoboSapien( LeftArmUp )
Quote:
RoboSapien Commands
. TurnRight
. RightArmUp
. RightArmOut
. TiltBodyRight
. RightArmDown
. RightArmIn
. WalkForward
. WalkReverse
. TurnLeft
. LeftArmUp
. LeftArmOut
. TiltBodyLeft
. LeftArmDown
. LeftArmIn
. Stop
. WakeUp
. Burp
. RightHandStrike
. RightHandSweep
. RightHandStrike2
. HighFive
. Fart
. LeftHandStrike
. LeftHandSweep
. Whistle
. Roar
Now I am ready to run them thru the dishwasher for a final cleaning then I can continue with my modifications.
I also have some EL wire on the way for mood lighting and a 10X10watt amp for the tunes. Just need to figure out my speakers.
And side by side
Wow dude those motors are way bigger..... ideas ideas. Im wondering if you have enough room for them. If you need you can cut the tip of the shaft shorter.
Feature:
Work: D Class
Quiescent Current: 20mA
Efficiency: 90%
Rated output power: 10W+10W(8ohm)
Frequency response: 20Hz to 50KHz
Operating voltage: DC7.5-15V
Recommended supply voltage: 12V, The center PIN of 12V DC is +.
PCB board size: (40 * 40) mm
100% Brand New
and these are the speakers
I paid like 7.50 with free shipping
First I had to cut and size the hole, then the speakers just popped right in. They actually seem to add to the structural integrity of the base (especially good since I cut 2 big holes in it haha)
I think they look right at home there and add a touch of cool.
Then I made a mounting platform out of ABS and attached that to the top.
This is where the Robosapien is going to be mounted to the platform
Now I have to cut out for the Laser Light Show, then I can do my bondo fill work. Here is a small preview of the laser show.
On the lamp:
On the window: Once I get it mounted I will post some video - it pulses to the music! Boogie Boogie.
Epoxy like this will fill holes and adhere your speakers in place.
Got a little fine tuning to do but it sits pretty well in the opening and perfect between the speakers.
The mod is simple enough, enlarge the hole the drive shaft goes thru to fit the shoulder of the motor housing. And open up the rear of the motor mount so the larger motor can protrude.
It holds the motor securely and works fine. Just out out the back with nippers and an exacto knife, and enlarged the front hole with a dremel and grinding stone.
So the shape of the base is not square, it has some funky lines and it is super skinny back by the gear boxes. I'm actually thinking of using a hobby grade 1/8" plywood and adding in thick pieces wherever the screw mounts are. Tack with superglue and epoxy. What do you think?
Then I did a test fit of the other motor - looks pretty good. Now I just need to sound deaden that gearbox and then I can hook up my motor controller.
So modifying the RAD base to take the omnibot motors was really easy - almost too easy. But it sure gives me a lot stronger motors in the drive section.
I take it the sound proofing is just bog standard Dynamat (or similar) as used in cars? That's something else I'll be taking away from looking at this build.
They were 6 bucks and I bought 8 of them .... ::crosses fingers that they are perfect size::
Any thoughts?
But you like the red huh? It is going to have black accents so I thought the red would look cool. But I am going to have some blue underlighting so I thought maybe blue would look better. I am just not sure.
The hole in the front is to hold my plasma lightning ball and there is the riser that will hold my robosapien.
now I need to blend in the laser light show, yet still be able to remove it
A friend came over and saw what I had done and said, "Are you trying to make Jarvis like in Ironman".... and my EZ-B system heard the word 'Jarvis' and told him off saying "Excuse me! You are mistaken... I'm not Jarvis... I'm Lawrence!"
His mouth just dropped open and stayed there!
Loving it!
THen I hit it all with a self etching primer for plastic and then water sanded it all.
Now I have sprayed the black that will be the accent color and once that dries I can apply the red. It will be a little while before I have pics of that 'cause it needs to dry pretty well before I can tape off, etc.
Rear
Front
Front again
Now I can install my lightning ball, laser light show and speakers. Then I will make the riser and paint the lower half.
Happy New Year. ...checking back in..I did get some time to work on robots over the break..but not much....I need to get back on the forum!
Bret, that is just SICK SICK SICK I tell you! Awesome Work!
Kevin
And your robot kinda close to mine,mostly i have 3 robot rooms,one is where i have many cabinets of parts and my network of computers and some of my test equipment
Second is mini work shop with some robots in boxes or on shelves and some machines for sanding about 8 ft by 6 ft room
3rd is my main machine shop with my big machines 10ft by 12 feet with alot of shelves
plus a extra storage room 12 feet by 30 feet ,where i have more robots and parts
Plus 2 more closets with shelves with more robots
On your ROBORAD idea since i have 2 robosapien and 5 rads ,going to latter make your project since it does look good,might change a few things
OR blue or chrome
Blue is mostly a mans color,forgot what it meens (i think sky or happy)
yellow is a scared color
there is mostly a name for each color,and male and female colors,was on the internet while back
mine is orange or GOLD or SILVER,but i like blue too
Bret, it looks great how you have it. Love the pin stripe too!
i like RED TOO ,but not my favorate color
my girlfriend really loves red,lipstick,nails and sexy lingerie
i have a red shirt with a dragon on it and its my favorate
I also said from my past comment his red look good
The abdomen sections are being painted even now. And I have decided what I am doing on the arms. I am just going to use model paint and paint brush to paint the whites of the arms. I think I am going with silver on those parts rather than trying to match the black or the red. And that should give me some good contrast.
Even the red looks good with the black like said
The speakers look pretty good with the flat black accent.
Then I mounted my vent grille covers. It works well with the silver pin striping.
So these vents are where the fan is going to pull the heat from the drive section. I will drill vent holes in the riser for incoming air. The flow should be good enough to cool down the battery, motors and motor controller.
THen I painted parts of the arms with silver model paint. I'm glad to see my model building from when I was a kid finally came to some good use. haha
I really like the silver on there, and leaving some white was my wife's decision. I like that too.
I like the silver too ,it looks great so far,yours might be better then JOSH'S omnibot project.
Are you going to put any pinstriping around the black? That would look pretty cool with the pinstripe top and bottom of the black, turning to go around the speakers. Just a thought
WE both worked the colors together
had to make 20 cheescakes,it uses homemade yogurt,thats 20 gallons of milk
BUT hope next week to start on my projects,need to get krylon blue and red paint ,and mabe a few other colors just to have them ready,had part is to get paint like johnny 5 color
maybe make my robot help in the baking mmm
And on the RAD base
Then I mounted the laser light show.
Finally I mounted the plasma ball. I used black RTV to hold it in place to hide the innards and give some amount of vibration dampening.
And here is a profile pic. I like the way it looks - maybe a little bulky, but okay. Next I have to mount robosapien to the top.
Your project looks very cool
Also i see the poor guy is headless
or if you have a link to it
Yeah, my wife painted the room and lost the cover plate haha
His head is a camera - still got wiring to do there.
I also pick up a few cans of KRYLON FUSION for plastics ,RED and BLUE
Was looking for colrs to match johnny five 2 different blues and only one is testers paints and use a AIR BRUSH tool to mix the colors to match him
Could use my friend that owns a car body shop,but would take longer and cost higher
So to mount robosapien onto the RAD base platform I made, I modified a couple of cable hold downs to accept a screw.
WIth the leg motors removed, I had a nice base to use as my mounting surface and secured the robasapien to the RAD.
I still have some tightening up to do and a little epoxy to apply, but here is where it really starts to become RoboRAD
AFter that I can install the camera and put his body on him. Yay!
ON the plasma ball i see they come in different colors
Bret on the RED paint i guess you used chilli pepper red
What i found out the testers makes plastic paint in many many colors more the krylon fusion
and for polycarbonate type of plastics its TAMIYA paints ( PS line)
BE cool to make that design of robot
To make a good mechwars robot or any robot from scratch all you need is a lathe and milling machine
and may be a casting setup and vacuum former for big parts
Think about making ED-209 robot using a model kit ,saw a few on ebay not painted all apart 10 inch high
But first need to mill a few plastic parts for my johnny five project,just getting a parts order for my pieces,eye iris most likely highest cost $47 each
i have also same size but in aluminium taking 2 screws,that would hold it better
I have many of them if you need them for free
I bought 3 more types of ROBOSAPIEN another robosapien v2 ,since the one i have works very good and dont want to tear him down,and 2 more robosapiens one broken to repair a cable on the arm.
And the last robosapien works so good ,dont what i am going to do with him
Robosapien v2 i am using is 24 inches high ,and has a camera on top of his head
I dont know if i can interface it,or just replace it with EZB camera
And i just one 2 more robosapiens , i have army of them now,mostly just wanted the RED MARK TILDEN version in RED chrome ,it looks so very cool
Other one i might sell with remote working perfect,it white and black version
Glad you put up this project it gave me many ideas
HE needs a younger brother
BRET i bought another robosapien (yep another robot to my growing list)
this one is very cool
its a rare blue robosapien V2 ,going to look very cool on a RED RAD frame
hope to get him in less then a week
I MAY make 2 roborad using robosapien V2 ,one called ROBORAD V2 and the other ROBORAD V3
it has a camera in the top of his head,so i will see if i can hack it,or change it for the bluetooth camera
Oh, I also designed the decal for his name that will go on the fenders.
so it meens plasma globe power is 4.4 volts
@Bret, what are you using for the decals? I have a new name badge for my Hearoid to get sorted, was just going to print it myself on some sticky backed paper (like the mailing label paper but bigger) but if there are other ways I'm open to suggestion.
like the collector on transistor,drain goes to ground like the emitter on transistor and gate is the control pin like base is used on transistor,and gate resistor is 1k or they have logic mosfets
on the type its n-channel,on one want depends on the wattage needed ,mostly you want to go double or more to have less heat or no heat ,and has low RDS ,rds is when the mosfet is turn on and resistance from source to drain
have to look up the most common used mosfet
BRET are you using the servos on robosapien or using the robosapien board with IR port connection,like in DJ video
I am going to hook up the robosapien like DJ did.
OK thanks on the info BRET i will use the same idea too,hopping it will work with ROBOSAPIEN V2 waiting on DJ answer to my question
Also BRET about the feet you removed are you hooking up the wire to a servo board or using h-bridge to control the RAD and i guess you are using only scripts instead of movement panel
HOPPING soon to get femisapien so robosapien wont be loney and have a dance partner
USE hairdryer on heat mode (ask you wife or girlfriend if its ok too) or by a heat gun like me
and heat up the sticker and use exacto knife to pry it off as more heat is apply.
ALSO works great on removng labels on boxes or packages
on lamps not needed,not a inductor type,leds are the same also no diodes
it has 4.5 volts in each leg using D batteries and another 2 aa batteries at 3 volts,seems like 9 volts for motors and 6 volts for main pcb
I also have a volt meter coming in, so then it is onto making the riser.
I took off my legs on one off and wiring
but not much on ROBOSAPIEN ,only ROBOSAPIEN V2
I bought it mostly to restore a robosapien and only need the outside cable connected to his arm
he look so good,cant hack him
will post photos of my army of robosapiens i have
cant wait for my blue robosapien v2 to come in,does have a problem,so i hope i can fix it,she says it works sometimes.
Where you have it is a good place.
Still havent got my plasma ball in yet,and so a very cool one for my bathroom ,one with a dolphin inside,since my bathroom has everything in of dolphins ,very long list and a wall fish tank,everyone loves that idea.even a chrome plated dolphin cup holder and a dolphin stainglass lamp ,both was high cost
Right now i am hacking it,one i am doing is motor speed control by EZB
Second a little harder,instead of the microphone that will pick up stray sounds,looking to remove the microphone and tap into the circuit to control by audio input from EZB
THE chip they remove the part #,so i guess reverse engineering it
PLUS add a IR detector that DJ is using for his greedy hand design
I think it will work for the claw and its not to hard on robosapein hand (claw design it has a wire cable to pull the fingers in so all you need to do it take apart the mechanical device on the robosapien and remove the springs and cable from is and add a servo to it ,another item is a actuator can be used too
THIS one here is perfect fit on robosapien v2 with very little changes
6 volt actuator
and the stoke is perfect too ,it needs .75 inch and stroke is .784 inch ,220 oz per pound pull
I got my decals made tonight and applied them to the fenders.
Not store quality but I'm happy with it.
need money i can do
Second i took apart the robosapien with the claws to replace a cable on one of mine,and another i found out that arm motor gear was bad,it was a broken robosapien off ebay
WHEN i took the claw apart i found out not same as robosapien v2,so no mods can be done
Also if you or anyone else needs parts like main pcb still good ,and other motors and stuff ,i can sell the parts cheap
IF you look at the motors gear box they are using its a POLOLU GM-2 gear box,and the motor can be change for a higher torque motor very easy its a RM-2,but you will need to upgrade the H-BRIDGE
not shore if i will ever buy from his store any more
is your's also sound activated also
THIS week looking to cut out the holes in the rad base,for speakerand plasma ball and laser light show
hope to see a photo of the bottom of the rad base on how you did it
Since w hen i took mine apart to work on the circuit board it is bigger then the ball and the plasma ball could not be removed.
one i have uses also sound and i made 2 simple mods ,one i took the microphone out and added a audio jack to it,second on the switch i made a small mod to switch from audio to manual using EZB
I painted part of the ball with blat black paint so you couldn't see through to the insides, and used black RTV silicone to seal around the opening.
I had cut down the base of the light to maximize space.
I also got the camera wired up and ready to go. Just got to do some touch up paint on the base of the robosapien where it attaches to the RAD base, then I can start on some upper body assembly.
Also on mine i have blue light ring around the bottom of the plasma ball,hope to show that part.
its a blue fluorescent light using the high voltage from the plasma ball.
that pole i made one like in school,for got the correct name i think its called graff,its been awhile
only remember name after the guy who first design it
Then I mounted a servo horn to my camera servo with some tiny screws.
THen I strengthened that with dental cement - it is not going anywhere.
Then that attaches to the tilt servo.
And I attached my tilt servo with more dental cement. NOw my camera pan/tilt is ready to go. I notched out the chest piece and back piece to go around this servo.
Then I mounted the camera and put the torso back together.
one item i like about my plasma ball would be easy to mount with any filler
I guess monday will start on the speakers i got the same as yours since the fit well
SOUND circut mod for plasma ball i have was simple change ,it uses a microphone so changing it over to audio input was easy for me.
i GUESS one you have doesnt have sound,i think only one company on ebay has it
But on BRETS design is also look cool
I use the pipe tubes alot
Looking to buy a big house near the lake for $200k this weekend
Also cut the hole for the laser and plasma ball,next is to make both be controlled by audio input (not voice) so it doesn't pick other sounds thats not needed.
Hope you get back to building soon!
I will be back once I get my 3d printer working the way I want.
What motors did you use to update the motors?
thanx:)