Roborad

bret.tallent

USA
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I posted this in the wrong section I guess, but here is a link to my newest bot - RoboRAD. I am combining a RAD 2.0 base and a robosapien.
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LINK

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#1  
RoboRAD project list:
MP3 with lots of music and nice speakers
EL wire neon lighting
Plasma Ball brain
Camera head on pan/tilt mount
Mechanised tow hook so he can tow a cooler/trailer around

and open to other ideas for cool functions!


I got the legs removed from Robosapien...he looks kind of sad. I think I am going to use the same 12V battery I used in B9 - it works great in these RAD bases and should give me plenty of power for some of the stuff I want RoboRAD to do.

;)
I removed his legs and just set him in the RAD base for this pic, but it gives you the idea. After creating two bots wherein I had to build everything (arms, claws, etc.) I wanted to try out the EZ-B with one of the supported platforms - less building and more programming. I do want to make RoboRAD a cool bot - new paint, new functionality, cool devices. But I think this will be a fun platform to start with. I will keep you posted as I proceed. I think my next step is to remove the RAD labels and run it through the dishwasher. Then I guess I am going to lose the cupholder (like Josh did on one of his MechWarrior bots). More later.
#2  
Thank goodness for copy and paste
#3  
The Robosapien looks right at home on top of that RAD base. I will be able to use most all of his features. And a camera will replace his little head. Right now I am in the process of cleaning out and setting up my new robot building room. My daughter has just moved out and now I get her room for bot building! YAY! (but I really miss her)
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#4  
Cupholder has to go! Is your kid 18 already?
#5  
My son will be 22 in December and my Daughter will be 19 in May. They both live in Albuquerque now. Yeah, I have plans for that cup holder (shhhhhh - it;s a secret until I get that mod finished - but it is cool)
#6  
Secrets! This is noooo place for secrets lol
#7  
Well.....just for you Josh. I am going to put a 3" plasma ball there. It should look like his power source and be fry reactive to sound and touch.
#8  
You should put a bug zapper around it.. bbbzzzzt! Didn't you need that space for the batt and ezb though?
#9  
I'll figure it out, but that's what I'd like to do.
#10  
So I have been taking a break from bot building to work on setting up my new bot building room. Still a work in progress but here are some pics. The work station:
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A window:
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My bots hanging out:
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Here they all are, watching me work - hey, to the left that looks like "a bot and his dog" - sorry for the early Don Johnson reference but I couldn't resist.
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And finally I decided to add a picture - this is downtown Albuquerque in the 1960's when I was just a lad there.
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#11  
Way more organized than me!
Canada
#12  
Looks very nice Brett. All coordinated and roomy... unlike
my "Bot Cave":)

You have a good collection of robots as well.
#14  
AHHH Im stuck in link loop! hehe

I like your workspace. I hope to have a place like that whenever I get back.
#15  
I like your work space there. Mine is a mess lol...

I think your RAD base would look much better if those stickers can be removed, so it will be white to match the top body, or paint over with black color.
#16  
Oh ya its a pain in the butt to get the stickers off. Only one rad bot I was able to peel the stickers off in large pieces.
#17  
Well, first things first. I removed the cup holder.
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Then cleaned up the opening.
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#18  
While I had the old decals soaking in a cleaner, I decided to work on my camera mount. I am going to use the mounting plate from the original bracket.
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I used a servo horn from the servo I will be using to adapt to the mounting plate.
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After cutting it down I was able to super glue it into the mounting plate.
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Then attach that to the servo.
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And finally attach that to the camera housing.
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That will provide the pan to my camera. Next I will mount a servo to the side of this little servo for up and down movement. This whole thing will replace the head on Robosapien.
#19  
I also started taking Robosapien apart for my modifications. I needed to remove the leg motors and the old head/neck. I am going to use the lights and sensor though to add to my new head/camera.
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#20  
Nice i see you figured out what i did with squegees camera. Nice! Are you going to do a tilt up and down too?
#21  
Yup - did you do that on squeegee? If so, how did you do it? I was going to mount a servo horn on the side of the pan servo and attach it to another servo for up/down movement.
#22  
I have not done tilt on squeggee yet . I need to check for space. If /when i do it i will cut the slot the serve is in a quarter inch longer and cut the mounting tabs off. Then glue a serve horn to the side of the panning servo. Cheap mini pan and tilt sorta like gunner did. The "bracketless pan and tilt"
#23  
That's my plan as well. I think it will be fine.

I think my biggest hurdle is going to be how I drive the RAD section. You can only have one Movement Panel and that has to be the one connected to the Robosapien for communication to it's control board. So I am going to experiment with using the leg motor wires to drive the RAD motors.
#24  
Must you use the robosapien feature? Not sure how you would do that using power from leg motors. Is there a schematic you have for Robosapien to guide you?
#25  
I don't have any schematics. I wanted to use the robosapien features because they are already programmed into it's board so simple voice commands is all I need with a single wire hookup. What I want that for is the control of the arms, claws, sounds and waist. That way I won't have to use up all of my EZ-B hookups to control those. I really need to control the RAD base separate from the EZ-B so that is what I want to do, but I need the one Movement Panel to connect to the Robosapien and I can't add a second Movement Panel to control the base. So I am unsure of what to do.
#26  
::scratches head:: ya i see your problem. This may require some additional hacking in the wowwee control board. To run the tracks off the leg motors the first thing that comes to mind is switching transistors to power the tracks. Once you wire that you have a limitation of either left and right turning or forward and reverse. :/ the best thing i can honestly think of is to run the whole robot from ezb and a h bridge. Maybe you could record the sounds and phrases that he makes and lookup all the voice commands and manually enter them to use through ez board.....
#27  
Robosapien Commands thanks to DJ

Quote:

RoboSapien( RoboSapienCommand )
Send a command to a RoboSapien connected on port D1. Find the available RoboSapien commands further down in this document.
. Example: RoboSapien( WalkForward )
. Example: RoboSapien( LeftArmUp )


Quote:

RoboSapien Commands
. TurnRight
. RightArmUp
. RightArmOut
. TiltBodyRight
. RightArmDown
. RightArmIn
. WalkForward
. WalkReverse
. TurnLeft
. LeftArmUp
. LeftArmOut
. TiltBodyLeft
. LeftArmDown
. LeftArmIn
. Stop
. WakeUp
. Burp
. RightHandStrike
. RightHandSweep
. RightHandStrike2
. HighFive
. Fart
. LeftHandStrike
. LeftHandSweep
. Whistle
. Roar
#29  
So it turns out I can use a different Movement Panel and run the RAD base like we have done in the past. I will connect the D1 port to the Robosapien's control board then I can get it to work in EZ-Script - maybe with voice commands.
#30  
I got all of the decals off the RAD base. I peeled off the plastic coating first, then I sprayed them with Pledge and let that set for a couple of hours. Then I was able to scrape them off very easily with another piece of plastic. After that I cleaned off any residue with 70% alcohol.
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Now I am ready to run them thru the dishwasher for a final cleaning then I can continue with my modifications.
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#31  
Came out of the dishwasher looking really good - but he still gets paint. Not sure of the color(s) yet, but I am thinking a candy blue. Suggestions?
#32  
I got a new toy coming for my party bot RoboRad - it is a laser light show for the music.
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I also have some EL wire on the way for mood lighting and a 10X10watt amp for the tunes. Just need to figure out my speakers.
#33  
Here are the new motors for RoboRad base. They are from an omnibot. Small ones are original, larger ones are the new motors. Should give him some more umf.
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And side by side
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#34  
I just ordered a set of speakers for my party bot RoboRad. They are HD television speakers - 8 ohm, 10 watts. Which will work perfect with my 10wX10w dual channel amp. Cool sounds on the way from RoboRad.
#35  
@bret fyi home audio speakers are 8 ohms , twice the resistance of car audio speakers and pc ect. So you will get 5 watts power from your 10 watt amp. Im sure it will work fine im just letting you know incase you felt like you got ripped off by the store you bought them from because 5 watts will not be as high of volume.

Wow dude those motors are way bigger..... ideas ideas. Im wondering if you have enough room for them. If you need you can cut the tip of the shaft shorter.
#36  
Plenty of pics for this mod pleeeeease:D
#37  
My amp is for 8 ohm 10w so I think I will be okay, but thanks for the heads up. Yeah, definitely gonna have to do some serious mods to get those bad boys to fit. Hope I will have some time this weekend and the holiday to work on it. And Gunslinger Bob of course.
#38  
Oh ok . Nice that amp will work great then;)
#39  
so here is my amp
Feature:

Work: D Class
Quiescent Current: 20mA
Efficiency: 90%
Rated output power: 10W+10W(8ohm)
Frequency response: 20Hz to 50KHz
Operating voltage: DC7.5-15V
Recommended supply voltage: 12V, The center PIN of 12V DC is +.
PCB board size: (40 * 40) mm
100% Brand New
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and these are the speakers
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#40  
Yea they look nice , got a link? Only thing that doesn't make sense is "class D" thats usually a mono amp with a range from 18 to 300 hz. "Shrug" might be a typo. How much?
#43  
So between shopping and visiting friends I have managed to get my speakers mounted in my party bot. They are HD TV speakers and fit well in the RAD base.


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First I had to cut and size the hole, then the speakers just popped right in. They actually seem to add to the structural integrity of the base (especially good since I cut 2 big holes in it haha)

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I think they look right at home there and add a touch of cool.
#44  
Those are freagin cool. They sorta remind me of the fender vents on a Cadillac Escalade. Did you epoxy or super glue them in?
#45  
Right now they are just pressed into the opening. But I will epoxy them after paint to maintain structural integrity.
#47  
That's a great find, Bret!
#48  
Well great job cutting the slot that those go in! I can tell you are getting better with a dremel.
#49  
Thanks Guys! Those speakers are all over ebay. Today I am working on fitting some more parts, then hopefully paint and final installation.
#50  
So I enlarged the cup holder to fit my plasma ball and cut out the center drop down where the RAD torso sat. THis was to make room for stuff "under the hood" and prepare for a platform to mount my Robosapien torso to.
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Then I made a mounting platform out of ABS and attached that to the top.
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This is where the Robosapien is going to be mounted to the platform
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Now I have to cut out for the Laser Light Show, then I can do my bondo fill work. Here is a small preview of the laser show.
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On the lamp:

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On the window: Once I get it mounted I will post some video - it pulses to the music! Boogie Boogie.
#51  
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Epoxy like this will fill holes and adhere your speakers in place.
#52  
Little bit of progress today. I made the cut out to mount my mini laser light show in the rear of the bot. Here it is in place along with the speakers.
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Got a little fine tuning to do but it sits pretty well in the opening and perfect between the speakers.
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#53  
Very cool dude. I wonder how your gonna fit everything.... robo backpack? Build onto the back of the base? Or make a riser between the bottom and top of the base to fit batteries and ezb?
#54  
The motor controller will fit under the robosapian mounting plate and the battery will fit fine under the hood laying on it's side. As for the EZ-B it will be mounted to the back of the Robosapien (see DJs bot). So it is all gonna fit but very tight.
#55  
@Bret, If its cramped for space, don't forget to keep a bit of airflow over the heat sinks for good measure. Even a little is better than none.
#56  
And plenty is the best.... sounds like fans and vent holes may be in order.
#57  
Yeah you're right, over time temp could really build up. Try to work in a chimney effect to assist in the airflow if possible. Intake lower than outflow.
#58  
Good ideas guys, I was going to fill in the curved opening under the top plate where Robosapien sits, but I will put vents there instead (and that is where the motor controller is mounted too). I do have room to mount a fan in the lower section so I can drill some vent holes for intake there and it can vent out on top. The mini light show has a fan on it so that will dump some heat into the body when that is running. So a fan pulling heat out at the top is in good order.
#59  
So after test fitting everything I am going to have to make a 1" riser. Oh well.
#61  
So I wanted to change out the wimpy motors that came with the RAD base with motors from an omnibot. In order to do that I needed to mod the motor mounts.
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The mod is simple enough, enlarge the hole the drive shaft goes thru to fit the shoulder of the motor housing. And open up the rear of the motor mount so the larger motor can protrude.
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It holds the motor securely and works fine. Just out out the back with nippers and an exacto knife, and enlarged the front hole with a dremel and grinding stone.
#62  
Wow that mod just looks way to easy;)
#63  
I bought a couple more rad robots and I had a "idea". Maybe cut up one base to put two together. That way there are two drive sprockets one on front and one rear. Also since I can cut right behind the front two wheels I could also have the front sprockets driven by their own gearbox and motors. Thats 4 motors and gearboxs total. What do you think of that idea?
#64  
I know huh? The motor just fits inside the box on the sides so it holds it really snug. It's so snug I may need to drill a few holes for ventilation for the motors.
#65  
Oh on your riser just keep it simple. I like to use wood 1/4 ply and superglue (just to tack it together) then epoxy all your seems that touch. Basically just build a box the same width and length of your base and then cut a large hole outto run wires through. Then just screw that bad boy together with wood screws.
#66  
Wow, true 4 wheel drive with tracks. That sounds really cool. How would you make sure both motors on one side turn at the same rate? I think that would be the biggest problem. If you do decide to do that I might be interested in the unused bottom to cut out the sides and use that for my riser haha.

So the shape of the base is not square, it has some funky lines and it is super skinny back by the gear boxes. I'm actually thinking of using a hobby grade 1/8" plywood and adding in thick pieces wherever the screw mounts are. Tack with superglue and epoxy. What do you think?
#67  
The only way I could make sure they turn aprox the same rate is to use two different h bridges fed off the same pwm signals. At that point they should be fairly close together. Im considering running 6 volts though I want to run 12.
#68  
I did the sound deadening mat on the one gear box.
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Then I did a test fit of the other motor - looks pretty good. Now I just need to sound deaden that gearbox and then I can hook up my motor controller.
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So modifying the RAD base to take the omnibot motors was really easy - almost too easy. But it sure gives me a lot stronger motors in the drive section.
United Kingdom
#69  
That looks great (and too easy but let's not complain about easy mods!). I guess I will be using those photos as references soon as I just picked up another Omnibot (for spares for the Hearoid build) and a broken RAD too (ebay is becoming a huge weakness! How to spend a Christmas bonus in 5 minutes...).

I take it the sound proofing is just bog standard Dynamat (or similar) as used in cars? That's something else I'll be taking away from looking at this build.
#70  
Yup, Dynamat. Yes, I am addicted to Ebay as well; much to the chagrin of my wife. lol
#71  
So have you tested this guy yet. I wanna see it perform. Im especially interested if if it proces plenty of torque at 6 volts since the motors are so much larger. I wonder if anyone knows the model of the mabuchi motor that you used here so maybe I could buy a handful. 4 gearboxes with these larger motors should be unstoppable!
#72  
Not yet, maybe this weekend. I was planning on giving it 12 Volts, but I can test it at 6 Volts too. They were right out of my Omnibot, so you could look at yours and see if you can tell. These are from the regular omnibot, not the 2000. The motors from the 2000 were way too big. That would be one strong drive section for sure. Two motors per side.
#73  
I finished lubing up all my gears and installing the Dynamat. So my gearboxes/motors are all set. I tied a power supply to each and they run great at both 6V and 12V.
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#75  
That's a good price. Did you make sure they were reversible? The Mabuchi RS 540 is used in a lot of radio controlled cars and is a great motor. I mean the high end RC cars (not racing quality, but good) you get from a hobby shop.
#76  
Yup they are reversable and should be as strong as the omnibot 2000 motors. I imagine it must be a worlds difference better than the tiny mabuchi rs260 that came in them. What did you use to adhere your pinions on? Im thinking I may pick up lock tite for plastic gears.
#77  
The pinions on the omnibot motors were perfect so no need to change anything. So I didn't have to use any adhesives or anything
#78  
Did a little bondo work today, fitting the lightning/plasma ball in the front and smoothing in the platform where Robosapien is going to sit. I'll sand it tomorrow and put on a finish coat. THen I need to make the riser so I can re-fit the laser light show.
#79  
Got most of my bondo work done and sanded smooth. I wrapped my laser show in wax paper and mounted it in the opening in the rear of the base. Next I will bondo that so it has a nice tight opening to sit in. Then it will be time for paint on the base. I am a little torn on color. I was thinking blue, but I already have a nice bright red (that I used on the claws for Mini-B) so I might use that.

Any thoughts?
#81  
Yeah, Bondo haha. I use it to smooth out my mods and blend them into the body. I figure if its good enough for a car its good enough for me haha. I think it's easier to build up, mold and sand than epoxy.

But you like the red huh? It is going to have black accents so I thought the red would look cool. But I am going to have some blue underlighting so I thought maybe blue would look better. I am just not sure.
#82  
Here are the pics of my first round of bondo blending in changes to RAD base.
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The hole in the front is to hold my plasma lightning ball and there is the riser that will hold my robosapien.
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now I need to blend in the laser light show, yet still be able to remove it
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PRO
New Zealand
#84  
Love the plasma globe.... just did the same through the top of the system unit that I am using to run EZ-B... a perspex case up against a red brick wall in the corner of my workshop....

A friend came over and saw what I had done and said, "Are you trying to make Jarvis like in Ironman".... and my EZ-B system heard the word 'Jarvis' and told him off saying "Excuse me! You are mistaken... I'm not Jarvis... I'm Lawrence!"

His mouth just dropped open and stayed there!

Loving it!
#86  
So doesthe laser shine through the plasma ball ok?.
#87  
The laser goes out the back and does not go thru the ball.
#88  
Okay, got my bondo and sanding finished.
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THen I hit it all with a self etching primer for plastic and then water sanded it all.

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Now I have sprayed the black that will be the accent color and once that dries I can apply the red. It will be a little while before I have pics of that 'cause it needs to dry pretty well before I can tape off, etc.
#89  
Okay, I got some painting done. I still need to do some silver accent but this is it.
Rear

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Front
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Front again

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Now I can install my lightning ball, laser light show and speakers. Then I will make the riser and paint the lower half.
#91  
Thanks Josh! Just plain red, not as fancy as the red you are using on Jarvis. But I like it.
#92  
I am also going to ad EZ-ROBOT:) to the fenders. I am thinking silver letters with black shadowing. Gonna buy some contact vinyl to make the decals out of. Maybe they will say RoboRAD powered by EZ-ROBOT. Something like that. What do you think?
#93  
It sounds cool brett. Im really wondering where your battery and ez b are going to go. Have you started the riser yet?
#94  
not yet. The EZ-B will actually be mounted to the back of the robosapien like a backpack. That's how DJ did his and I like the easy access. Plus it shows of the product.
#95  
Hey All,

Happy New Year. ...checking back in..I did get some time to work on robots over the break..but not much....I need to get back on the forum!

Bret, that is just SICK SICK SICK I tell you! Awesome Work!

Kevin
#96  
roborad looks real good
And your robot kinda close to mine,mostly i have 3 robot rooms,one is where i have many cabinets of parts and my network of computers and some of my test equipment

Second is mini work shop with some robots in boxes or on shelves and some machines for sanding about 8 ft by 6 ft room

3rd is my main machine shop with my big machines 10ft by 12 feet with alot of shelves

plus a extra storage room 12 feet by 30 feet ,where i have more robots and parts

Plus 2 more closets with shelves with more robots

On your ROBORAD idea since i have 2 robosapien and 5 rads ,going to latter make your project since it does look good,might change a few things
#97  
hey KEVIN welcome back,I guess we all thought you left the forum :(
#98  
Thanks Kevin! Good to hear from you again! Can't wait to see what you have been working on. @robotmaker - thanks for the compliment and I hope you do make one like him. It has been a lot of fun. Just for entertainment (music and lights) but a fun one to build.
#99  
Just did a little today. put some pin striping on RoboRAD and masked off and painted the front and back chest pieces.


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PRO
New Zealand
#100  
Very nice.... and shiny too !
#101  
Red looks good,it is a women color,but i am going to use a different color
United Kingdom
#102  
That's a nice finish on it, looks lovely and smooth
#103  
thinking about silver or gold,since i do buy it
OR blue or chrome
#104  
:D *blush* ha ha ha Fred you crack me up "red is a women color" lol. Well at least his bot is not watermelon pink like I did my sisters little rad robot.
#105  
Bret I like the red , its the new blue
#106  
ASK any lady whats her favorate color is RED,like red roses and RED lingeries,RED is whats called sexy or love in colors,thats why ladies love pink too it a shade of red

Blue is mostly a mans color,forgot what it meens (i think sky or happy)
yellow is a scared color

there is mostly a name for each color,and male and female colors,was on the internet while back
mine is orange or GOLD or SILVER,but i like blue too
#107  
Racing red use to be a popular color for cars. I don't think they were looking for a girly look. What about Iron Man? Not everyone has that opinion. It could be either depending on context. Muscle car painted red or sensual red lipstick on a woman. Of course, in my opinion.

Bret, it looks great how you have it. Love the pin stripe too!
#108  
Iron man looks good in red,and cars also,still a woman favorate ,ask any lady
i like RED TOO ,but not my favorate color
my girlfriend really loves red,lipstick,nails and sexy lingerie
i have a red shirt with a dragon on it and its my favorate

I also said from my past comment his red look good
#109  
So I painted his front and back torso with the red and it is really hard to tape off those curves and small features. I am looking at the arms now and thinking I am in over my head trying to tape and paint those. Could I leave them white and black like they are? I don't have white anywhere else on the bot. I suppose I could paint the arms solid flat black to go with the other black on the bot? Hmmmmm - suggestions?
#110  
BLACK will make it stand out,and goes with red pretty good
#111  
Torso
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The abdomen sections are being painted even now. And I have decided what I am doing on the arms. I am just going to use model paint and paint brush to paint the whites of the arms. I think I am going with silver on those parts rather than trying to match the black or the red. And that should give me some good contrast.
#112  
now thats good really good
Even the red looks good with the black like said
#113  
Yea dude thats hot I love it
#114  
While some paint is drying I mounted my speakers and a cooling fan.
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The speakers look pretty good with the flat black accent.
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Then I mounted my vent grille covers. It works well with the silver pin striping.
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So these vents are where the fan is going to pull the heat from the drive section. I will drill vent holes in the riser for incoming air. The flow should be good enough to cool down the battery, motors and motor controller.
#115  
I may have missed it. What kind of paint are you using. Did you use a primer first. If so what brand. It's looking really good.
#116  
It's Krylon spray paint for plastic. And I did use a self etching primer first.
#117  
Here are the abdomen pieces.
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THen I painted parts of the arms with silver model paint. I'm glad to see my model building from when I was a kid finally came to some good use. haha
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I really like the silver on there, and leaving some white was my wife's decision. I like that too.
#118  
Thats same paint i use,great on all types of plastics,i bought a few colors and few on hand just have them ready for my project.
I like the silver too ,it looks great so far,yours might be better then JOSH'S omnibot project.
United Kingdom
#119  
That's looking great.

Are you going to put any pinstriping around the black? That would look pretty cool with the pinstripe top and bottom of the black, turning to go around the speakers. Just a thought:)
#120  
When i am ready to build mine ,calling it ROBORAD V2 because i have robosapien v2 version and i like the hands better then the claw
#121  
Also BRET i guess you are going to wire the motors to the EZB instead of the robosapien script in ARC
#122  
That's looking AWSOME Bret! You and your wife make a good team. She's got good taste. The white really brings it together.
#123  
BRET my girlfriend wants red on my robot,so i guess will get red,but also using BLUE too
WE both worked the colors together
#124  
Thanks Guys! I do like the way it is looking. @robotmaker - I am going to use the EZ-Script to control the robosapien and tie all my other stuff into the EZ-B, the drive section, lights, sounds, whatever other goodies I put on it. I also like the idea of RoboRAD V2 - it sorta makes mine the original.
#125  
Been busy this week,mostly a lot of baking,since i use to do that and i sell a cheescake i make special
had to make 20 cheescakes,it uses homemade yogurt,thats 20 gallons of milk

BUT hope next week to start on my projects,need to get krylon blue and red paint ,and mabe a few other colors just to have them ready,had part is to get paint like johnny 5 color
maybe make my robot help in the baking mmm
#126  
I couldn't wait, I had to see what robosapien was going to look like.
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And on the RAD base
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Then I mounted the laser light show.
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Finally I mounted the plasma ball. I used black RTV to hold it in place to hide the innards and give some amount of vibration dampening.
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And here is a profile pic. I like the way it looks - maybe a little bulky, but okay. Next I have to mount robosapien to the top.
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#127  
That is so cool! That Plasma Bubble is over the top! You gotta give us a video of this thing in operation when you get it running!
#128  
I have the same plasma bubble i think,need to check on it and be good to add it to my roborad v2
Your project looks very cool
#129  
Is it ok I say I think it would look better to paint the white arms a matching red?
#130  
Actually the arms are silver. I just left the claws white. They just look kinda white in the pic because of the light.
#131  
it looks good the way it is

Also i see the poor guy is headless
#132  
Hey Bret, get a cover on the outlet before you electrocute yourself! :D
#133  
Bret what size is your plasma ball,one i have looks like it wont fit its 8 inches
or if you have a link to it
#134  
It's a 3" plasma ball for the desk top and plugs into a usb port. I got it off ebay.

Yeah, my wife painted the room and lost the cover plate haha

His head is a camera - still got wiring to do there.
#137  
Cooool , its tempting to get one for dusty. .. but maybe a bigger one. Very cool bret very very cool.
#138  
I ordered 2 of them just to have a extra one on hand
I also pick up a few cans of KRYLON FUSION for plastics ,RED and BLUE
Was looking for colrs to match johnny five 2 different blues and only one is testers paints and use a AIR BRUSH tool to mix the colors to match him
Could use my friend that owns a car body shop,but would take longer and cost higher
#139  
Thanks Josh. Since this is USB I can power it right off the EZ-B. It only needs 5 - 5.5 volts. I don't know about the larger ones.

So to mount robosapien onto the RAD base platform I made, I modified a couple of cable hold downs to accept a screw.


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WIth the leg motors removed, I had a nice base to use as my mounting surface and secured the robasapien to the RAD.
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I still have some tightening up to do and a little epoxy to apply, but here is where it really starts to become RoboRAD
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AFter that I can install the camera and put his body on him. Yay!
#140  
Looks great

ON the plasma ball i see they come in different colors

Bret on the RED paint i guess you used chilli pepper red

What i found out the testers makes plastic paint in many many colors more the krylon fusion
and for polycarbonate type of plastics its TAMIYA paints ( PS line)
#141  
He is really turning out well! Kinda looks like a tough battle bot, like on a ED-209 level.:)
#142  
i remember the ED-209 when it first came out in ROBOCOP and then again in TERMINATOR judgement day
BE cool to make that design of robot
#143  
Yeah, ED-209 is really cool. That is a bot someone needs to build for the Mechwars that Josh and I are doing.
#144  
Oh yea I want a ed209 so stinking bad. I mean it doesn't need to look perfectly like him just the general concept. Intermediate and professional classes for mechwarrior competition indicates the robots must walk and have individual servos for each leg no csm systems or multiple links to one motor allowed.
#145  
can easy add a servo to each leg,i think i saw some one made like that for mechwars

To make a good mechwars robot or any robot from scratch all you need is a lathe and milling machine
and may be a casting setup and vacuum former for big parts

Think about making ED-209 robot using a model kit ,saw a few on ebay not painted all apart 10 inch high
But first need to mill a few plastic parts for my johnny five project,just getting a parts order for my pieces,eye iris most likely highest cost $47 each
#146  
looking at the cable clamps and i see they are plastic ,think they will hold the weight of the robosapien
i have also same size but in aluminium taking 2 screws,that would hold it better
I have many of them if you need them for free
#148  
@Brett yeah I agree ED-209 is freaking cool..imagine that thing guarding your house...oh oh oh inspiration has struck again ...how about a Hanson like Jules sitting in the passenger seat guarding your vehicle while your in a mall or at the movies or whatever!....anyways..upscaling ED-209 would be a big challenge..perhaps using mdf wood as the main material?
#150  
Also with all these robots i bought i need to open a ROBOT MUSEUM

I bought 3 more types of ROBOSAPIEN another robosapien v2 ,since the one i have works very good and dont want to tear him down,and 2 more robosapiens one broken to repair a cable on the arm.

And the last robosapien works so good ,dont what i am going to do with him
#151  
BRET another question,what robosapien did you use on you ROBORAD 15 inch or 24 inch

Robosapien v2 i am using is 24 inches high ,and has a camera on top of his head

I dont know if i can interface it,or just replace it with EZB camera

And i just one 2 more robosapiens , i have army of them now,mostly just wanted the RED MARK TILDEN version in RED chrome ,it looks so very cool

Other one i might sell with remote working perfect,it white and black version
Glad you put up this project it gave me many ideas
#152  
Thanks! Mine is the V1 robosapien - the 15 inch one.
#153  
OK ,i might make a second roborad using the red chrome version,besides the roborad using robosapien v2
HE needs a younger brother
#154  
i posted the other one in the wrong place
BRET i bought another robosapien (yep another robot to my growing list)
this one is very cool
its a rare blue robosapien V2 ,going to look very cool on a RED RAD frame

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hope to get him in less then a week

I MAY make 2 roborad using robosapien V2 ,one called ROBORAD V2 and the other ROBORAD V3
#156  
got it on ebay for $38 ,no remote but not needed
it has a camera in the top of his head,so i will see if i can hack it,or change it for the bluetooth camera
#157  
Mostly worked on Bob this weekend so not much progress on RoboRAD - I did get him epoxied to the base and wired up the TIP 120 switching transistor to control the plasma globe. Now to drill a couple of holes to feed wires to the EZ-B that will be mounted to his back.

Oh, I also designed the decal for his name that will go on the fenders.
#158  
Instead of ising a switching transistor witch is old school,i would use a mosfet,less current ,less heat easy to use,no power (wattage) wasted ,plus if the globe is running at less say 5 volts .,using a transistor would give .6 volts less ,mosfet 0 volts less

so it meens plasma globe power is 4.4 volts
#159  
BRET also you know whats also cool if you have another working robosapien is have the ROBORAD control it,since EZB has a interface for it (robosapien movement panel)
United Kingdom
#160  
How about a schematic or wiring diagram for the mosfets and part numbers if it's the way to go?

@Bret, what are you using for the decals? I have a new name badge for my Hearoid to get sorted, was just going to print it myself on some sticky backed paper (like the mailing label paper but bigger) but if there are other ways I'm open to suggestion.
#161  
Dont really need a schematic ,hook is the same ,they have 3 connections source is relay or light to v+
like the collector on transistor,drain goes to ground like the emitter on transistor and gate is the control pin like base is used on transistor,and gate resistor is 1k or they have logic mosfets
on the type its n-channel,on one want depends on the wattage needed ,mostly you want to go double or more to have less heat or no heat ,and has low RDS ,rds is when the mosfet is turn on and resistance from source to drain

have to look up the most common used mosfet

BRET are you using the servos on robosapien or using the robosapien board with IR port connection,like in DJ video
#162  
For my decals I am using the self adhesive vinyl they use for cars and stuff. You can get it in sheets and in colors. THen i will just cut my design out with an xacto knife.

I am going to hook up the robosapien like DJ did.
#163  
DECALS not good at never good at ART :(

OK thanks on the info BRET i will use the same idea too,hopping it will work with ROBOSAPIEN V2 waiting on DJ answer to my question

Also BRET about the feet you removed are you hooking up the wire to a servo board or using h-bridge to control the RAD and i guess you are using only scripts instead of movement panel
HOPPING soon to get femisapien so robosapien wont be loney and have a dance partner
#164  
JOSH said that stickers are hard to remove,here is a trick i learn from work ,when production needs to remove bad lapels and put on new ones

USE hairdryer on heat mode (ask you wife or girlfriend if its ok too) or by a heat gun like me
and heat up the sticker and use exacto knife to pry it off as more heat is apply.

ALSO works great on removng labels on boxes or packages
#165  
The RAD base is going to be controlled with an H-Bridge separate from the robosapien. I am going to use scripts and voice commands to control robosapien.
#166  
RICH mosfet part # is IRFZ44 55 VOLTS 39 AMPS never gets hot and super simple to use,remember to use a blocking diode on relays and motors for EMF kickbacks or mosfet get fried
on lamps not needed,not a inductor type,leds are the same also no diodes
#168  
what about the pwer source in robosapien,is it the same as robosapien v2
it has 4.5 volts in each leg using D batteries and another 2 aa batteries at 3 volts,seems like 9 volts for motors and 6 volts for main pcb
#169  
I plan on just providing 6 volts to the pcb on Robosapien initially and see how well he works. Since I am not using the legs/motors at all, all of that wiring has been removed. I made a little progress last night. I used my bone cement to fill in around the base of robosapien where he attaches to the RAD (with his abdomen pieces on) and did some dremel work to smooth things out. Tonight I can apply a finish coat of bone cement to give hime a nice surface for painting. Then I will just do some touch up paint to make him blend into the RAD. I also drilled a hole where I can fish my wiring from the base up to the EZ-B that will be on his back.

I also have a volt meter coming in, so then it is onto making the riser.
#170  
6 volts will be ok for PCB, i will think you need about 9 volts for the motors still,
I took off my legs on one off and wiring
#171  
My Robosapien only has the 4 D cell batteries providing 6 volts total.
#172  
I guess only robosapien V2 has 6 D cells total 9 volts
#174  
its a much bigger robot,i found a great hack site on it with pins location and lot more info
but not much on ROBOSAPIEN ,only ROBOSAPIEN V2
#175  
I guess ROBORAD wont be able to dance like robosapien HUH
#177  
Rad and robosapien are 2 of my favorate robots,And the 2 together make a great pair
#178  
BRET i have a broken black and white robosapien for parts if you need any parts i have them or any one else too

I bought it mostly to restore a robosapien and only need the outside cable connected to his arm
#179  
I just got my 2 other robosapiens ,wow the the red chrome mark tilden edition look to good to place on a RAD base,he is in perfect shape,so the other black and white robotsapien that came with it ,will paint it red,so far havent seen red chrome paint for plastics
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he look so good,cant hack him
will post photos of my army of robosapiens i have
#180  
Wow! That is cool looking. I don't blame you for not wanting to hack him.
#181  
Looking at ideas to control him using EZB ,but without using direct connection like in the video DJ made or hacking it for connections
#182  
here is my army of robosapiens,only 2 missing my blue robosapien v2 i havent received it yet, and my black and white robosapien v2 i took apart
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#183  
Nice army - RoboRADs to rule the world mua ha ha
#184  
YEA and EZB
cant wait for my blue robosapien v2 to come in,does have a problem,so i hope i can fix it,she says it works sometimes.
#185  
MY laser show like your came in,looking to make changes like a mirror to have it on the wall
Where you have it is a good place.

Still havent got my plasma ball in yet,and so a very cool one for my bathroom ,one with a dolphin inside,since my bathroom has everything in of dolphins ,very long list and a wall fish tank,everyone loves that idea.even a chrome plated dolphin cup holder and a dolphin stainglass lamp ,both was high cost
#187  
check my info on the post about the greedy hand control ,i have links to robosapien hacks and tear down,a lot of info
#188  
Also about the laser light show you have,and same one i got too

Right now i am hacking it,one i am doing is motor speed control by EZB

Second a little harder,instead of the microphone that will pick up stray sounds,looking to remove the microphone and tap into the circuit to control by audio input from EZB

THE chip they remove the part #,so i guess reverse engineering it
#189  
BRET i took apart the hand and found a way to add a design to open and close his hand better
PLUS add a IR detector that DJ is using for his greedy hand design

I think it will work for the claw and its not to hard on robosapein hand (claw design it has a wire cable to pull the fingers in so all you need to do it take apart the mechanical device on the robosapien and remove the springs and cable from is and add a servo to it ,another item is a actuator can be used too

THIS one here is perfect fit on robosapien v2 with very little changes


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and the stoke is perfect too ,it needs .75 inch and stroke is .784 inch ,220 oz per pound pull
#190  
That is really cool. Maybe a mod for a later date when I want something to do. For now I am just gonna keep what he has.

I got my decals made tonight and applied them to the fenders.
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Not store quality but I'm happy with it.
#192  
BRET can you make me a set of them they look great ,only add V2 if you can
need money i can do
#193  
Thats cool bret! Where did you get your stickers?
#194  
Pretty cool Bret!
#195  
Thanks guys. I just got some self adhesive vinyl sheet off ebay and cut the letters out with an xacto knife. Stuck those onto the silver sheet and cut around that with scissors.
#196  
not great in ART ,BRET are you able to make me a set

Second i took apart the robosapien with the claws to replace a cable on one of mine,and another i found out that arm motor gear was bad,it was a broken robosapien off ebay

WHEN i took the claw apart i found out not same as robosapien v2,so no mods can be done
Also if you or anyone else needs parts like main pcb still good ,and other motors and stuff ,i can sell the parts cheap
#197  
Bret i tore down robosapien model like your's and found out there is a another modify you can do easy

IF you look at the motors gear box they are using its a POLOLU GM-2 gear box,and the motor can be change for a higher torque motor very easy its a RM-2,but you will need to upgrade the H-BRIDGE
#198  
BRET my friend i finally got my plasma ball came in today,wow over 3 weeks from china,i bought a lot of stuff from china from same area and after i ordered this one and all came in fast,and was the china holiday time

not shore if i will ever buy from his store any more
#199  
BRET another question on your plasma ball ,before i leave for a big party i am going too
is your's also sound activated also

THIS week looking to cut out the holes in the rad base,for speakerand plasma ball and laser light show
#200  
BRET another question since i building something close to your on the plasma ball hole you made .did you make it the same size as the plasma ball or did you just made a little smaller and put the ball from the bottom.
hope to see a photo of the bottom of the rad base on how you did it

Since w hen i took mine apart to work on the circuit board it is bigger then the ball and the plasma ball could not be removed.

one i have uses also sound and i made 2 simple mods ,one i took the microphone out and added a audio jack to it,second on the switch i made a small mod to switch from audio to manual using EZB
Canada
#201  
More is coming for this guy right? Pretty cool looking bot.
#202  
Since I am waiting on parts for Gunslinger Bob I had some time to get back to RoboRAD. Here are some pics of the plasma ball install. I cut the hole the same size as the ball. I taped it into place the way I wanted it and used bondo to fill in the front area where the cup holder dipped so low. Then I could use this as a good mounting point for the ball.
I painted part of the ball with blat black paint so you couldn't see through to the insides, and used black RTV silicone to seal around the opening.
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I had cut down the base of the light to maximize space.

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I also got the camera wired up and ready to go. Just got to do some touch up paint on the base of the robosapien where it attaches to the RAD base, then I can start on some upper body assembly.
#203  
OK thanks BRET i will do the about the same too on mine,need to place so the laser show will go through the ball,plus can dance or move to sound

Also on mine i have blue light ring around the bottom of the plasma ball,hope to show that part.

its a blue fluorescent light using the high voltage from the plasma ball.

that pole i made one like in school,for got the correct name i think its called graff,its been awhile

only remember name after the guy who first design it
Canada
#204  
Painting it black sure made it look just that more natural on the over all scheme.
#205  
So I painted the dental cement that connects the robosapien to the rad a nice flat black.
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Then I mounted a servo horn to my camera servo with some tiny screws.
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THen I strengthened that with dental cement - it is not going anywhere.
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Then that attaches to the tilt servo.
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And I attached my tilt servo with more dental cement. NOw my camera pan/tilt is ready to go. I notched out the chest piece and back piece to go around this servo.
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#206  
Okay, I mounted the EZ-B to his back and added a step down transformer to go from the 12V to the 6V the Robosapien needs.
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Then I mounted the camera and put the torso back together.
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#207  
LOOKING cool BRET,mine i found out my camera fits inside it
#208  
Wow Bret, all that work is really paying off. I love the camera sitting where it is. Kinda looks like a Cyclops robot.
#209  
I started on mine BRET i cut some of the plastic for my plasma ball and my laser show like your

one item i like about my plasma ball would be easy to mount with any filler

I guess monday will start on the speakers i got the same as yours since the fit well

SOUND circut mod for plasma ball i have was simple change ,it uses a microphone so changing it over to audio input was easy for me.

i GUESS one you have doesnt have sound,i think only one company on ebay has it
Canada
#210  
That thing looks pretty damn awesome. Get the wires all permed and she's gona look like a prom queen, haha. Now I don't know if there is any sort of camera present in the stock head, I'm assuming not as DJ also took off the head, but that camera looks like it was made to be where his head is.
#211  
DJ has the camera mounted on one side of the robot,i like inside the head,on robosapien v1 you cant ,but on robosapien V2 you can

But on BRETS design is also look cool
#212  
He needs to get red pipe cleaners and make a Mohawk for it;)
#214  
sparkfun is selling pipe tubes and all you need is a led RED ,so it will look like a mohawk

I use the pipe tubes alot
Canada
#215  
Sounds like something off a Tony Hawk game. Make a skateboard chassis for him, haha.
#217  
Soon I will be able to get back to RoboRAD. He too had a little damage in the move (cosmetic), the hardest thing will be to find all my parts haha.
#218  
Hope to see some cool stuff done to it,looks like everyone is buying a house and moving.
Looking to buy a big house near the lake for $200k this weekend
#220  
BRET my friend i did some more work on my roborad project i bought some press fit screws to hold the same speaker you are using,just drill a hole and tighten the nut and it blends in to the plastic.

Also cut the hole for the laser and plasma ball,next is to make both be controlled by audio input (not voice) so it doesn't pick other sounds thats not needed.
#221  
RoboRad looks cool!
Hope you get back to building soon!
I will be back once I get my 3d printer working the way I want.
#222  
Hopefully things will settle down around the house now so I can get back to my robots. I hope to finish up Gunslinger Bob and Robo Rad pretty soon. Then I will start my new bot and do some much needed repair work to Mini-B.
#223  
RoboRAD is now for Sale. He needs to be completed but everything is there and included except a battery. He has the plasma ball, laser light show, cool speakers, and is nearly ready for your next party. If you are interested in him, please email me at bret.tallent@gmail.com
#224  
Very Cool!;

What motors did you use to update the motors?
thanx:)
#226  
Ah....Thanx Bret. I'm working on my RAD base and trying to learn from all you PRO ROBOs:)