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Asked — Edited

Voltage Regulation Question

Looking for help!

I have a Drok regulator and an 11.2v 5200mah LiPo battery to power my EZB. My EZB keeps telling me my battery is low when I have the battery passing through the Drok at 7v. The problem is that the amps are not pulling through the Drok enough to juice the EZB. The EZB is only receiving .18ah. When I plug my smaller 7.4v LiPo at 1300mah directly into the EZB I am not having any issues. I'm trying to avoid multiple power sources in my project.

Is there something I am missing?

This is the Drok I'm running...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQH4M82/ref=as_li_tl?tag=proeng-20&keywords=voltage+regulator

http://www.droking.com/the-modification-for-the-latest-lcd-cc-cv-regulator-by-customer-feedback/

Thank you so much for any help!

Douglas

AI Support Bot
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#1  
Hi Douglas,

I think your thinking process is a little off on how the power gets to the EZB. The Amps don't pull the "juice" through to the EZB. The load you're trying to power pulls whatever amps it needs regardless. The only things that will stop enough amperage needed by the loading device is system failure or restriction. If your conductors are too small or too long of a distance, if your equipment is underrated for the amount of amperage the loading device is drawing, bad connections or a current limiting device (either in line or installed in a device). If any of these except / including the current limiting device is underrated or bad you'll get heat, melting, exploding or even no current draw. In the case of the current limiting device these are sometimes adjustable. I took a quick look at your second link and it mentions Current calibration. I'd start here. ;)

Code:


Current calibration: this function is suitable for the case that there is current displayed when without load or the displayed value is much larger. In the state of power off, press ENT button and do not release, power up the module, then it will enter current calibration mode. The LCD screen will flash. At this time, release ENT button, SET button is for adding value, ENT button is for reducing value, adjust the current to right value. E.g.: in state without load, if the current displays 0.02A, adjust the value to 0.00A, the value will be saved automatically in 2 seconds, switch off the power then the calibration is completed.


EDIT:
What kind of motor or servo are you trying to power? How many amps will it pull at peak power?

Also there is a section on the EZB's web page that will disable this low battery warning. In ARC's connection tool there is a section where you can lower or raise the voltage where you will get this warning. Although I don't recommend it you can adjust the voltage up a touch on your DORK and overvolt the servo above 7 vdc (if that's the top recommended voltage of your motor or servo). ;)
#2  
Thank you so much Dave! I'll try that.

Do you have any suggestions for a better set up? Ultimately, I am powering two EZBs with a full load of servos and actuators. I would like to wire two of the 11,2v 5200mah LiPos in parallel. I can't tell you how much I appreciate your reply.

:)
#3  
I'd bypass the EZB altogether with a dedicated power circuit directly to the motors. You can use one power supply for both as long as it rated high enough in amps for all your needs and the voltage matches everything. I hate using the EZB as a power conduit. Others will argue this point but I've seen start up load on HD servos cause my EZB's to brown out even though I had amperage capacity. Bypassing the EZB to the motor from the same power supply kept this from happening.

Others have been able to avoid EZB brownouts caused by amperage draw of the loading device by placing super caps on the EZB. There's a couple threads on this if you do a search.;)

Did you see my Edit above?
#4  
Yes Sir! I just went through the calibration process and cranked up the volts to 7.5. Everything came to life. I think the I'll use your dedicated power circuit suggestion!

Thanks again!

Most sincerely,

Doug
#5  
Yep, ezb will shut down if it thinks your battery is low. Glad it helped. Still I'd find a way to bring down the voltage to within the motor specs. Cheers!
#8  
That's a nice converter PTP. I wonder if it's a linear or switching converter? Doesn't say but with those specs I would say it switching.
PRO
USA
#9  
SMAKN does not manufacture, and i can't find their website.

my guess is switching, specs: efficiency>85%, Non-isolated

I have one in my wish list, if i get one i'll open to check the inside.
#10  
No worries. My original question was around power draw browning out my EZB. I ended up powering the servos independently as Dave suggested.
#12  
Hi Dave,

If you would ever like to chat more in depth, I can be reached at dbickert@wideopenwest.com or through my site www.motusindustries.com

I’ve had R2 running around for over a year now and have been increasing my EZ Script knowledge with every mistake. lol

Anyway, thank you for all your support specifically around the kangaroox2. I was able to get it working because of your generosity with sharing code.

Thank you

Douglas
#13  
Hi Douglas. It's always a thrill when you learn or wright some new EZ code and watch something come to life. Always glad to be of help to the process. ;) Also thanks for the invite. Don't be surprised when you see my mane in your inbox. *eek*:P

EDIT: Cool site! I'm going to spend some time looking it over. Thanks for sharing!
#14  
Thanks Dave! I’ll look forward to it. :)