The sensor does not allow changing the i2c address. Its not possible to have two of those sensors on the same ezb.

Thanks DJ, Note the answer I was hoping for but an answer. I guess I will try using the DC-SS503 in the body and the 4in1 in the dome. would like to do it the other way around but with the wire length limitations on the 503, I don't have many options.

Thanks again RichardZ

Is it possible to fit two EZB's into your R2 in the location you need? This should give you the flexibility you need.

I don't know how your running your control and feedback wiring but with an EZB in both the dome and the body this will eliminate a lot of wires running between the two sections.

To add onto Dave's suggestion, there is an EZ-B Tiny in the works which will be perfect for adding additional EZ-B's when space constrained.

Alan

Yes Alan. I'm on the edge of my seat waiting for that little wonder. I plan to install it into the upper brain pan that sits up in my B9's head bubble. This will eliminate 4 wires I have threaded up through the neck support pipe that control Transistor switches that run lighting functions. This bubble bobs up and down and turns back and forth. Then all I'll need are two wires for power; a positive and a negative wire. It will be much easier to assemble and disassemble the head section and there will be much less of a chance that I'll suffer broken wires or an open connection. A few years ago in the EZB V3 era I had a V3 installed up there. When I retrofitted all my EZB's over to the V4 I had to do away with having a EZB in the brain and regretfully had to thread the extra wires up into the bubble. The new V4 was to tall to fit in the brain and didn't let me close the top lid and screw it down in place. stress

I highly recommend mutable EZB's when practical in multi leveled robots who's levels move independent of each other or just to simply eliminate the extra wires running between sections of the robot. In my B9 I have two EZB's in the torso (I need the extra Uart and digital ports) and one in the lower leg section. When the Tiny comes out I'll have an additional one in the brain again giving me 4 EZB's.

One added note; if you add an extra EZB you should try to keep them apart from each other by a few inches. People have had problems with the WIFI signals interfering with other giving connection issues. The two I have in my torso are about 5 inches apart and I have no issues.

There is also a new version of the big EZB coming out soon (hopefully) with a better WIFI board. I understand it will have better connectivity among other new features. If it has a stronger WIFI signal then the orignal V4 then I fear the issue of two EZB's sitting to close and interfering with each other may be worse. Any comments on this thought? confused

Thank you Dave & Alan for your replies. I too am eagerly waiting both new products. I believe the new faster communications board will solve some problems I have trying to read encoders and the new smaller EZB will be perfect for my RAD robot project that is currently using an Arduino. I think I have the room in the dome for a second EZB, but boy what a waste of resources. for the full sized product.

Waist of resource? Ya, I understand that feeling. It's odd seeing an EZB with only a few digital ports and the UART port connected. However it's comforting to know that I've simplified my wiring loom, decreased the change of a failure, and taken advantage of advanced technology and features offered by EZB. Furthermore, the way I look at it is it gives me lots of headroom for expansion or additional improvement through new devices for only under $80 USD.

Good looking little droid you have there.

I agree, better to have to many ports then not enough.

Burnt another servo last night, this time the eyeball servo. I assume tracking is to much for the servo. The eyeball servo only has 40 degrees of travel and the rapid movement when tracking must have cooked the chips on the board. Might have to rethink the design. I like the look though, and it works great until it doesn't. The eyeball is made from a cap from the top of a bed post. it is a little smaller then a ping pong ball. I have thought of using a continuous rotation servo with a worm gear setup but can not come up with a way to get position information. Same problem I had initially with the dome causing me to go from a continuous rotation servo turning a ring gear to a standard servo in the center. Every bot has its own design problems.