
robotmaker
does anyone know how to remove the yellowing on my plastic on my robot
i know about using bleach or white spray paint
but here is the problem.like on a R2-D2 robot it has silver paint,blue paint ,plus other colors,plus in very small detail.but yet on sme pieces have yellowing of the plastic
so can paint or bleach
so is bleach or painting it and then repaint the details with the right colors after it dries the only way or just leave it alone
i did see info on a thread after i wrote this about retrobright ,will try it and post results
i will have to borrow my lepard gecko lizard UV lamp
I would think that this bottle of Concentrated Green Cleaner made from Orange Peels would do the trick. It is a product of your own state. It has made things Super White for me.
Mel
retrobright idea i am using is tezza's recipe,there are a few recipes
1/2 pint (200 ml) Hydrogen Peroxide, 6% strength (available from most Pharmacies as a hair bleach or antiseptic)
2 heaped tablespoonfuls of "White Crest" Arrowroot
1/5 teaspoonful of "Oxi-Magic" laundry booster (to be added to the gel just before use, like the original recipe)
do need to remove any decals,but main question is does your remove the other paint
look at the photos on the site of the commodore 64 it looks like decals didnt touch ,but the plastic is white
i know on your site photos look good too
Then we took the idea to other forums, where the idea received a sceptical response at first. Lorne (from Arizona) and Tezza (from New Zealand), from the Vintage Computer Forums (http://www.vintage-computer.com) really took on the idea, worked with us and helped us perfect the process between VCF and EAB. We have now proved on several forums that plastics yellowing can be completely reversed in hours without damage using our mixture."
here is info on hair bleach products
. Use of Hair Bleach products on dark coloured parts.
Lorne found a hair bleach product that originally looked promising on beige parts, however, when this was tried on dark blue coloured parts that had turned almost black, it was noticed that the surface had changed as shown below.
The best guess as to the chemical in the hair bleach that caused this is called Terpene; this has chemically etched and denatured the surface slightly. If you wish to try a hair bleach product, please stay away from any that appear to contain solvents or chemicals such as terpenes.
will go out this week to get all supplies and try both and most my results
what is the name the 40 volume developer you used
cant say if your will work or not
or Tezza recipe will work or not till i try them both
did a search at sally beauty supply and they have many brands
can pick up at sally beauty 1 mile from my house
@jstarne let me know the names of the developer and whitener
some stuff like arrowroot can get at publix and walgreens near my place
The retrobrite wiki recommends using hydrogen peroxide in a 10% to 15% concentration. The stuff in pharmacies and drug stores that is labeled "hydrogen peroxide" is typically only a 3% concentration, which is why it may not have worked well. "40 volume developer" is just the name hairstylists use for 12% hydrogen peroxide. Here is a good reference I found:
http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.com/hairdressing-peroxide.html
So I'm not sure it's accurate to say retrobrite does not work well. It does, but you have to use a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide than is commonly available under that name. One place to get it is from a hairstylist, but in hairstylist lingo it is called "40 volume liquid developer", presumably because women would freak out if they thought they were getting "hydrogen peroxide" on their hair
What was your experience in disassembling the Omnibot? I'm a bit wary in doing so; I don't want to end up with a bright and shiny, but non-functional robot
hair salon i need to add more then a few times and other little less
only problem is making it or buying all ready made,but making will save you money
Mel
I have used it for over 20 years.
My boss had a man that came door to door and sold it. it was $65 a gal. But, my boss hassled him down to only $8 a gal. It lasted for years using it every day on the workbench. That was a while back, so it might be more now.
Mel
it cleans it great,but not the yellowing
http://www.amazon.com/Bio-Green-Clean-Ready-Use/dp/B0032JUMUO/ref=pd_sim_lg_1
thats the one i got while back,use alot trying to get the yellow out,it does a little but still can see it
i seperate my parts in boxes ,plastic bags and 35 mm canisters or pill boxes and label them
mostly dont use a camera ,it takes time to set it up plus have no problem putting it back together without it
i guess from, many many years of building and taking robots apart,it gets super easy for me