Asked — Edited

For Those Of You With 3D Printers

what settings do you like for:

number of shells: resolution: infill density:

Thanks, Just curious.

Mel


ARC Pro

Upgrade to ARC Pro

Your robot can be more than a simple automated machine with the power of ARC Pro!

PRO
USA
#2  

All depends on your machine, and what you are printing.

#3  

FlashForge, ABS and PLA. I figure most printers would be about the same. I would like to hear what works for you guys. I am thinking anywhere from statues to robot brackets, even EZ-Bits.

PRO
USA
#4  

Unfortunately all open source 3d printers on the market today are all different. Different sized nozzles, speed of motors, heated bed vs none. You really have to dial in the numbers on each machine. If you buy a kit you can be messing for months before you get one print that works. I suggest a machine that has been built prebuilt and the bed leveled. And profiles for that machine in what ever the software you use to slice and generate the gcode. A lot of options at the moment.

#5  

1.75mm filament for a .4mm nozzle. I have a FlashForge Create Dual.

PRO
USA
#6  

Are you using replicator g or makerware? Have you tried cura?

PRO
USA
#7  

Page 17 of the pdf has a very good starting point for the profile to get one print off and running. Other user experiences will most likely be on a forum somewhere, that will help you dial in your profile.

Replicator G profile

United Kingdom
#8  

Hey moviemaker,

You may find the reprap channel on IRC would be a really great resource for you if your getting into printing and need help with settings - plus it's a real time chatroom usually with dozens of people at a time in it. The people that hang out there include many of the people that have designed the various main models of printers so it would be good guidance. As fxrtst says each machine (even of the same type) can have differences and require slightly unique settings.

I just hope that the files actually become available to print the EZ bits as they are once again quiet on that front. It would be actually nice to be able to print something given the main order won't be here for a long time still. It's actually going to still be longer even from this point than they promised at the start of the year when it was all ordered.

Happy printing,

Jay:)

#9  

Thanks Guys, I am using MakerWare. I have put already 650 Hours on my machine. I am just curious what settings work for you guys. I also use ProfTweak.

I tried printing the EZ-Bits several times. None of them came out acceptable on my machine. I even passed them through netfabb.

#10  

Thanks, that was what I was looking for.

#12  

Anthony, 2996Hrs, Wow! That sort of makes you the local Expert on the subject. I have only 650 Hrs on mine.

#13  

On parts I like to really have strength I use 6 to 10 walls and 20 percent infill. The less infill and less walls the lighter the item but it is also more brittle as well. Sometimes you may print something and descide it is a little too frail and beef it up. It's whatever works for the individual application. Also if you plan on having more infill I notice raising the number of outside shells is smart so that the part doesn't curl up off the bed. Both my machines are makerbot.

#15  

I just installed Cura. It seems to load a variety of formats, ie; stl,gcode, and one other. That is nice.

It seem to only save the Gcode. and the Gcode does not print on my printer unless I change it to .xg3. I could do that in makerware or RepG, but the format of gcode is not readable by my slicers.