
irobot58
Canada
Asked
— Edited
While Bluetooth is the standard for connecting a PC to the EZ Board and V4 is on the way (WiFi) is it possible to hardwire (USB, etc) for those builders who have room for an onboard PC. Perhaps there is a way to emulate the Bluetooth connection thru hardwire/software? I know there is a Type2 with a stronger signal but that is only one part of the connection circuit. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Glen
Yep, you can hard wire the EZB directly to your PC through USB. You need to remove the Bluetooth board and install a USB interface. I don't have the exact board that can be used right now but we were discussing this over a year ago. I think if you do a search you can find a link to the proper one to use.
This is what I used:
www.ebay.com/itm/USB-To-RS232-TTL-PL2303HX-Auto-Converter-Module-Converter-Adapter-5V-3-3V-Output-/180931822407?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
WOW thank you every one! Fast response and.......informative!
Any one else having issues with poor Bluetooth connections will also be grateful to the amazing members of this community! Bookmarked
Yes, two of my three EZB often disconnect the BT connection from the PC. I was going to either upgrade the BT board to a higher class or get one of these USB boards. However the V4 was announced and I decided to wait and go the wifi route.
It appears there are more pins on aameralis photo of USB adapter than the link provided by HERR Ball. Is it just a plug in replacement on the EZB3? Is there any performance increase removing the Bluetooth? One time I strapped my new ASUS laptop on the front of my robot and I got great picture and color recognition using the onboard camera. I would love to someday have a small Acer onboard my current robot, leave in EZB3 so I won,t need voltage regulators, and use my new EZB4 for my new robot build. It would be great to have a case on both robots that I could easily move the Acer or windows tablet to either robot. Steve S
Edit: nevermind.
@SteveS
You only need 3 pins, GD, TX, RX. My Bluetooth was always getting disconnected so the converter was the way to go.
Herr Ball, Thank you for responding. It sounds like an easy conversion. Do you have an onboard PC? If so, what kind? Thanks, Steve S