many thanks jeremie.i am printing a glow in the dark one.

hey jer

is the backside ,the middle pin made chorter?

No Sorry Nomad, it’s just a illusion of the angle I took the screen shot at. The middle pin sticks out and there should be support material that holds up the rest.

hi jeremie

i found the auto ad support in cura.thank you thank you:D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vQQxNHwVn4

sofar i am not able to print the jd front head with the eyes.so i found a solution.i printed a  plate, and two rings.as you can see in the video.the eyes where not smooth,thats why i use the rings. they have two clean sides.

Hello @Nomad, it looks like you are getting some lift on your print. This is likely an adhesion problem, try these things:

1. Print with a raft
2. Level the build plate
3. Clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol to remove any grease that may have come from your hands
4. Scuff up the build plate with sandpaper or whatever you can find

Hope that helps!

hi jeremie

i have level the bed with the blue tape on it.the 4 corners are good but in the middle is not so good. thats why i thought the bed was not good.okay adhesion means ( stycky problem  ). i have isoprofyl alcohol ,

thanks jeremie.

jeremie its much better but another problem is hapening while printing. the connection with cura server falls out and printer stops. are there any good free programs for printing?

thank you jeremie

nomadr6/EDP/ patrick

Nomad, put UHU stick glue on the blue tape for better adhesion. For slicing i use Repetier-Host : https://www.repetier.com/download-now/

the sticky problem is solved.but i notest the bed is bend.also i see a missing page in settings on the printer. i dont see this page as in the pic. do you have an idea ,if you use your android phone as wifi for the cura,will that cost alot? i have a look on your link.and i have UHU sticks. thank you for responding.

You have too much air circulation and the pla is cooling at different rates. We resolved this by placing a box over the printer.

Also, the other main reason for lifting on the edges is due to the plate being too far or too close to the print head.

Take some time to calibrate the print head against the bed as often as possible.

hi dj my printer sits in a closed. i level the bed about 30 min and in all corners and middle. the bed is bend i cant get a good bedleveling. i bouth this on ebay,new in box.i think the seller got me there.

thank you for the respons

I think JD is correct and your print head is two far from the print bed,  try to do your leveling of the bed with NO TAPE on the bed then when you are finished put the tape back on the print bed,  this makes the extruder closer by the thickness of the tape,  another thing I would use is to turn on RAFT in your program this will adjust for the uneven bed. by adding a pad of plastic under your print object that you peal off.  leaving the printed object flat on the bottom.

hi nallycat

i am using the raft and its better not compleet good but better. i level the bed wiht no tape.

thanks

I never use the tape. I’ve never had good experience with tape. Every time I used tape, the part wouldn’t stick and warp.

hi dj

the tape works very good here.but the cura is a bummer.losing serverconnection.printing stops .cura dont open. way too much settings.

I never use tape years ago I switched to using glass on the print bed and some hairspray.  the printed  parts stick with no warping and release easily when the bed is cool.  I never have to enclose the printer even when using ABS,  my filiament of choice though is PET G. no smell, easy to print, very strong, solvent fused, and can be submerged into boiling water.  won't melt if you leave your robot in your car on a sunny day. try that with PLA.

i have the glass reddy .some day i will use it.thats a great tip about the PETG.

thank you

okay i have printed my B9 hehe.tomorrow i will print the transparent parts.

Dave snuffleapagus is gonna love that! If it was a bit bigger, you could add servos and an iotiny

hi dj

i dont have a big printer for the size mini servo's.but i can make it bigger.

i forgot i dont have pla transparent.so made it red.i can scale up to 350 size in cura .

@Nomad 6R    Hi I like your B9, very nice  if you are thinking of printing transparent parts I recommend using PMMA filament it is very clear. print slower and hotter, and you can finish with acetone fuming just like ABS, for a great finish.  How long did it take to print your B9?:D

thank you for the tip.i saw a video about fuming.the printing of the little B9 a few houres cant say excacly howlong.

i forgot what is the recomended speed for PMMA ?i am doing the grippers on scale 350 in cura ,it takes 3.40 houres

@Nomad 6R    For fuming I use a metal paint can and I put paper towels around the insides held on with a couple of magnets. then wet the towels with acetone put your print in the can on a small piece of wood in the bottom and put the lid on.  I do this outside as the acetone is very strong. use a test piece to test for time check every 10 minutes. for printing I print at 60  and the extruder temp is 240 deg. for clear parts do not use any infull if you can/

thats very usefull info many thanks.the grippers takes 4.40 houres to print scale is 350 in cura. printingspeed mine says 1.0 on the printer.how do i understand this?

@Normad 6R   I am not sure what your printing speed means at 1.0   maybe 0,5 may be half speed which would be ok.  I forgot to tell you if you fume parts don't pick up the parts with your fingers as the surface needs to harden so just upen the lid and let it air out.

i know you have to let your parts dry out.thanks for telling.

i made a jd front spider chest.you can print it in red and paint the spider black.the spider lays ontop chest. tel me what you think,any improvement always welkom.

It makes my spidey senses tingle.

Looks good.

jd front spider lay in hi dave

you can also leave a print of the spider and print spider separt as a lay in.

here's is jd spider chest,just using a black marker.

That’s a good idea!

hi dj

you can use all colors now.

Looks great @Nomad!  ...does whatever a spider can!

he needs to learn some skills hehe.

Looks great!!

feet for galapagosbot

here some new design for the galapagosbot,new feets.

Cool idea @Nomad, thanks for sharing the design!

reinforced backpart jd chest

i notest that when printing the backside jd chest it was not very strong. i am not sure if it comes to my low skills of 3d printing. anyway i desided to reinforce the back part.as you can see , all the yellow is reinforced.also inside where the screws goes in, is reinforced with a little spacer.the yellow round cirkle is the part, that easly break off.not with this config.i hope its usefull. all is free for download.

there are some video's on youtube that says there is no generator to round up corners /edges in tinkercad. well there is .see generators all then page 12 .there it is. i have a quetion also. does anyone made an stl or has one from the main gear micro servo?

I know nothing about 3D printing and very little about the material available to print with. However are you sure the material available would be strong enough for a servo main gear? It would be nice if something would be available and easy to print.

hi dave

i am testing some servo's housing now. i dont think its strong enough cause of the heat servo's make. my goal is something compleet diff.i make dummy servo's.do maybe its possible for very , thik gears on the outside of a motor or servo with 80 or 100 % infill.am just gessing.

Very interesting. I'll be watching to see what you come up with. Thanks.

do you have something in mind?

No, nothing in mind. Just watching talent like your's and learning. Maybe I'll be able to use what you come up with some time in the future.

talent ,lol i just remember my first jader print was at 80 % infill. you could not even sanded.it was really solid. i will test a gear at 80% infill.let you know here.

Hey @Nomad I've made pieces that attach to the micro servo output gear, it's actually exactly the same as the HDD servo output gear.

You just need to grab the U-Bracket (P24) STL file. It's located inside ARC under Project-> My Robot -> Design -> "Bit library" drop down menu -> Servos -> Lever servo (any) and then "Save STL" for P24. Load the STL file up in TinkerCAD then remove/add whatever you need around the servo gear section.

hi thanks jeremie.i have a look now.

i get only a bracket?lol

hi dave.

these are 3 gears with 90 % infill pla.is really solid.when you install a glas bed ,you can use abs witchs is even more stronger. you can ad names or adres or phone number on your gear.so averyone knows from who this robot is. or ad an arrow if you need to line up gears.

Oh sorry Nomad! I thought you wanted an STL for the bracket side of the gear not the gear itself.

I was picturing you designing something like this:

hi jeremie

i need the gear.thats what i want.from the micro servo.

this one i mean. ithink its called the main gear ( chaft ) spline.

stl gear stand darth father

gear stand for darth father head.

Hi Nomad, I just saw the video of your gears with two of my favorite people's name printed on them. Me and my B9. LOL. Thanks for the nod.

Yes, those look very sturdy and would work for most things. I'm still wondering how a print like the brass gear you pictured above would stand up to the wear and tear of the punishment we put servos through. I guess there is only one way to tell, design it, print it, use it. LOL.

As far as Father's head on a gear stand; very cleaver but I think you have Dad issues. LOL!

hi dave

i printed the mini gear, but that didn work.too small not teeth on the print. the names print very well ,and very clear also. as for the dad issue lol .i only knew my dad till i was 13 years old when he passed away. i didn see my dad often cause off ilness.so your thoughts are correct.lol

Man, that sucks. Sorry.

Thats ok dave.thats along time ago.

am doing some testing on a new robot build. the video gifs a little clue. am not sure it will work but its a lot of fun.

hi

i have made a new mod on the gripper jd.am doing this cause when you make a big robot, you have an idea what works.one question i have is when you grip something and have, a servo some distants away,would that burn a servo when its really gripping.

here a pic off the mod

here the stl file stl grippers 1

stl nm 2 stl 2

the video

funny it did grip 1 time haha.but the mod is much better.

hi i never trow away not perfect prints.you can always use them for something. in this case i had a few darth father heads left over.so i made them into, book stands.also improved the word darth.its now in front.

LOL! Outstanding!

stl jd back panel chest

another improvement.i notest when putting jd chest together and you are a little to hard on the print, some can break off like the pins to hold the servo inplace.so i put some support there.

here is old sparky-3

Man your skills keep getting better and better.

hi dave

thanks for your supportive words.:D

Sooooo cool!!!

okay. here is my version jd's turning waist.the link for the servo is in the topic serco less degree. first a few pics.

and offcourse a little video

yep finich.i made a lid to cover up the servo.

you can just pop it on the case without any screws.or you can keep it in place excample with paint the part.

stl servo case and lid

any ideas what i can try out?

here the turning waist on jd.need more testing how strong the servo really is.

Very cool! Now you should make him dance to the Beatles song "Twist And Shout"!

hi dave

thats an idea.haha.

oops jd has a mallfunction,he thinks he's a bird.xD

here is jd waist turning in HDD.

lid 3d print in gold gives more detail in the emblem.

just incase i forget.jd will not.xD

@Nomad 6R   Merry Christmas and happy New year to you and JD. \

hi nallycat

Merry Christmas and happy New year to you too.

Very nice waist turning module, right 2020 is almost here

i found some cool hands.for jd.

after seeing the zoe hands,i made an ez version.

you can lock the hand on the lever with one screw if you wanted.

here the hand

That's pretty slick

hi dave

working on the thumb now.

thanks:p

Hey, good to see you figured it out already...sorry for the delay!! I just uploaded Zoes hands on Thingiverse now just for you interest. Although I guess, the ones you made are already working great!!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4098540

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4098556

here are some hands with thumbs.i will print these later and post it here on how they look.

hey mickey

no worries.i have tons of fun with your idea of hands.

thanks

made some hands with chort thumbs and high thumbs. male and female .8 pairs are reddy.

thank you mickey for the stl's

here's an idea i have to make it possible to grip a ball with two hands. a spring loaded hand.would this work?all ideas and thoughts are welcome. so the pressure is at the fingers insteadt of the servo.

first print spring hand at 70 % infill.not much bending sofar.looks good. i am printing one at 20 % infill.take about 3 hours to print.

great

I don't have a 3d printer yet, any suggestions?

yes wait till they are reddy.haha if they works i can print a pair for you. and send them to you.send me a mail with an adres you like to use and phone number .

here's a easy way to make a hip. ad two cube's  on the bottem jd chest.see pic.

ad this point it looks  allreddy good. next print a cube cover.you can download stl on my tinkercad.

next slide it over the cube's,then put the legs on.

and here's ez robot DROID. also the hand are reddy.video comes little later.

You're really good at this. Looks like you're having a lot of fun also.

hi dave

its very rewarding inventing parts.soon i need a bigger printer.lol:D

thanks

Yes Nomad 6R   When I saw the printer you decided to purchase, and after seeing all the parts you make, I knew it would not be long before you have to get a larger printer.   I use a delta printer as it takes up much less room, the bed is 185mm X 185mm 370mm height it is a FlSun large delta and I have used flsun model printers for over fifteen years with no problems, the printers come as parts and you have to assemble it, but this is a good thing as you learn alot on how your printer should work.  the only thing I added was the Printer Program Simplify 3D  Which I think is the best.  Delta printer's are faster because the printer head is the only thing that moves and it is light, regular printers have to move the print surface a large heavy plate that has a lot of inertia and has to stop and start quickly making it not as accurate, and slower.  I use a glass bed and hairspray, the printer has a leveling feature .  

hi nallycat

3d printing is very addicted.lol:Di had this printer in mind. consider big bed and low prize.

3d printer

looking at the backside waist cover,i saw this.

lot off space for led's

i found led with flat heat and i have space for 3 led's it will look like this.complete cover.

here's an idea with one led tri color.

very cool lights,

good job

Also I like the way you have the waist move

Ang

this is a dummy waist .not moveble.i am test printing one now.:D

thanks EzAng

okay.there are 3 covers reddy.for one led,for two led,and tree led. waiting for the led to arrive.here some pic.

the front has tree holes for tree led's. the backside one for the wires come thru. and there is space for using spiral wrap.

here the LED flat head.

I need a3d printer, still researching.

Nice printed part with the lights - sound

good job!

Ang

hi EzAng

i started with a cheap 3d printer cause you need to learn alot. also making mod on printers.and learn tinkercad .

thanks

I know there is a lot to learn on 3d printers - doing research

did you see my new Roman with head movements?

yes i saw it on youtube.good work.

thanks, now head moves back, forth  :-)

you becomming a pro in robotics.xD good color skin too.

Thanks, my wife helped with that.

It is good to get the wife involved :-)

i have a question about printing.i have a glas bed now witch works really well. one problem do,the print starts to curl up and split open in the middle.what can cause this?

any one thank you

I sounds like a layer adhesion or bed adhesion issue. Three things you could try:

1. Clean your bed with isopropyl alcohol to remove any oils on it
2. Re-level your bed
3. Modify the print temperature

hi jeremie

is possible the temp is to high? i am using 200 . on the box says 190to 220.

@Nomad that temperature actually seems too low in my opinion.

At the office the filament we use is 190 to 220C rated as well and we print at 220C.

If you start seeing little burnt bits in your print or the plastic looks like it's bubbling as it's printed the temperature is too high, you can then dial the temp back a bit.

oh.many thanks for the info.

jeremie

indeed printing at 220 is much better.

found it,deleted post

all is bin changed

here a little update.shoulders and hip are reddy.for the shoulders i use ez robot HDD. arms MG995.

they say trouble never comes alone . i just renewed the heatbed and complete headblock. al go's wel for 1 day and then i hear this sound.i can see the gear is not loose. can this gear worn out?

Hi Nomad,

That gear in particular doesn't "wear out".

You see the inner diameter gets locked onto a motor shaft with a set screw, so it doesn't wear down. The set screw can become loose, so you may need to tighten it.

The outer diameter which grabs onto the filament can get full of filament and start slipping. They teeth are only rubbing on plastic so they won't wear down. You can clean these teeth with a toothbrush or equivalent brush.

hi jer

i did clean them out and indeed there is some flinters off filament in there. ok the gear is good.and i put in a new spring in and handle . its still do tok tok tok .i also notest i could not get the filament to retrack for excample to use another color

@Nomad6R  if you are hearing a noise, like a knocking noise the print head hot end is to close to the table there is not enough space for the filament to exit if it does this for to long it will burnout the stepper motor, it weakens before it eventually dies.  make sure your first layer is not to close to the build table, those stepper motors are around 25.00 u.s. on amazon.  I keep a spare as I had one burn out when I wasn't watching. that ticking is a vibration and can loosen the feed gear, like yours did.

hi nallycat

i hear indeed knocking sound as in the video.at this moment the nozzle is on the print.not on the table. and am printing on a glas bed. learn something .thanks for the info.

@Normad6R   When you start printing the first layer is when you can damage your stepper motor if the print nozzle is to close to the glass bed the heated filament has no room to leave the nozzle. the stepper cannot push the filament so it makes a clicking noise.  the stress on just doing the first layer can damage the extruder stepper.  when you setup the alignment and bed leveling use 2 thicknesses of paper to raise the nozzle a bit more.  if the knocking is while the print head is several layers up, then you have a partially blocked nozzle. to test this before you print raise the print head extrude about 50 mm of filament, it should drop straight down if it coils the nozzel is partially blocked, so clean it.

hi nallycat

your right there's a problem with the new heatblock.filament goes not thru the block.

hi nallycat

you are spot on.thank you for saving my printer.it was a new complete heatblock with a faulty throat.

@Normad6R you are welcome  if the stepper keeps clicking after you fix the blockage then it is damaged. you will have to replace it, I hope not,  but it has happened to me, we learn by our mistakes.

Lucky.it works,doesn click,xD back to printing.

the real problem that started the tok tok sound is this. i negleted to check the new nozzle.i was assuming it was good. it was loose and cause a cloth in the nozzle.

does this picture look normal?

@Normad6R    No it does not look normal.  You need to check your extruder it is not putting out enough filament.  print a test cube and check your settings.  did you tighten the grub nut on the feed gear.  and it is tight.  and check the filament leaving the hot end if you extrude 20 mm is 20 mm coming out.

hi nallycat

lot of filament is comming out,but not line next to line .more like a V chape. also the lines off the raft do not stick together.i use 220 heat.no heat on the bed. i just checked the grub nut is ok. it feels like the sync off the bed and nozzel is off.

@Normad6R  download and print a test cube   no raft.    reset the bed level to make sure you are the correct distance to the glass. and see how it prints.

i took the glas off the bed.cause the back screws off the bed is slitly grazing the block where the rods are for the bed. also i see alot of sparkelings from the rods on the belt.i think the machien is worn out. i will test the cube in about 6 houres.i can make a video.

here is a video with some grinding sound.

back into printing.i can fix the printer for a few dollars.so i am going to fix the printer. i can learn alot from this repairment.here's what i found yesterday. some times i hear a chort crack sound.this seems to be a happen alot. printing the cube.later i post some pics.here a pic off part of the problem.

here's the start from the cube .

now i have a leak to fix.but i am able to print.

some interesting details about leveling the bed. first thing i saw is a faulty speed for the first layer .you need to set the speed half for the first layer. second is the way you level the bed ,see picture.numbers are the screws on the bed, except for number 5 .

here's a part printed half speed.its awesome.

i finally maneged to get the bed leveling right. here's a paper that comes when bying a printer. its a little thicker then a A4 paper.

what i learn is this.slight this under the nozzel when bed temp is atleast 30 heat or the temp that you use. loosen the screw untill the paper gets stuck under the nozzel.then gently tighten the screws and at same time pull the paper from underneed, the nozzel.here you will find two things .eather the paper chift in small amount from underneed the nozzel, or all the way.these two are your messurment,your setting chould be between these two . when printing a raft it chould look like this. see pic.no curls,no thin lines.no pullin back filament.

you can also see the color is very clear.no warping or lifting from the print. i use the UHU stick ones.on a clean bed.110 heat extruder.30 heat bed. half speed.

och its allreddy christmas here.new printer arrived, creality ender-3 here's a first print.woef.

the ender-3 feels like a porche if you comming from a mini printer, its getting better & better the more you print. waitng for spare parts for the monoprize mini v2.

a smal but useble print.the backpart without the corner.

just found it.i had to ad the printer.

@Nomad6R  Great Job.  I am sure you will be creating great things with that 3D Printer.

hi nallycat

question.if your settings in cura uncheck platform heat,chould there be readings off temp on the printer? my monoprize always say 22 heat aldo its unchecked. thanks

hello @Nomad 6R i never success printing with ABS

hi EricEZ

indeed starting with 3d printing can be tricky. the  most importend thing is the bed leveling. what do you use now? pla.

@EricEZ  What Problems did you have printing with ABS   You have to have an enclosure for the printer as ABS warps and lifts from the print bed, I have a large delta printer I use a clear Garbage bag over the Printer, I use a glass Bed with Aussie Hair spray, also the bed has to be hot and the extruder has to be hot, I use an all metal extruder because of the heat used.  it just takes practice.  for most of my printing I use PET-G filament, as it is stronger then ABS but is much easier to print with.  you don't need an enclosure.  but you have to use retraction as it is stringy if you don't.

okay eureka.the ender-3 is printing well.

i finally found the error,you can believe it.after seeing a lot off video's, i found the problem.its the original paper that you get with the monoprize mini v2. this one

it make your setting to far away from the nozzle.now i use orig A4 paper, and glas bed.all problems gone.

second part anthony robot,the lower back leg.

and a little video.

@Normad6R  Can you show Jeremie your foot and leg design, that is how he should do Astro boy's  foot and knee.   great design I hope you are using PETG or ABS

hi nallycat

i am still using pla cause i have lots off them.the parts still needs some tinkering.

i use this model design robot

this is the link lower back leg.lower back leg

right foot only two holes for the horn.i couldn get the other in line yet.right foot

right ankle colum.ankle colum

servo back cap,this fits in the colum.servo back cap

the servo cap slide in the colum,it fits like a glove.

i have a upper arm also reddy for testprint. the reason behind this robot;i making as cheap possible fight robot. all other parts needs to be adjusted and test print. thats why these are set prived.not test print them yet.

220 nozzle heat/ first layer 50% speed /heat 50 heat / 50 % infill/using raft. parts are 5MM thik.

thank you

oh oke, thank for help i wan to try print with ABS,

hi EricEZ

keep posting here.and ask questions.some will help. what i know is .use 220 nozzle heat,60 heatbed .print first layer half speed. you can print a cube for testing.or a plate test abs

@Nomad 6R          yea,    I'm tired doing nothing..lol, .. I will start working on robot projects again,  like before

EricEZ

what kind of printer do you have?

i have anycubic delta and anet e12

nice twi printers.with glas bed?

yes i use glas bad, with paper glue i work in 3d printing ordered in my country i have the website www.ngeprint3d.com i just print my new full size robot

same here works best.and isopropyl 90% to clean the bed. have you printed abs yet?

oh thats very cool robot.

for little part i can use ABS, but i always fail in a big size with abs

what you mean by fail ?does the print warping? lift off the bed?

i think 3d printing kill my skil...lol...., maybe I will use PVC again in the future

yes is warping and lift on the bed

i had same problem.warping when printing big things. 1 clean the glas using isopropyl 90 % 2 heat the nozzle 220 and the bed 60 temp 3level the bed use A4 paper check it atleast two times. 4print with a raft. 5print at a lower speed.raft half speed.

The correct bed tempature for ABS is 110 Celcius  for  Fahrenheit people that is 220  Fahrenheit.  but it is very hot.  if PETG is used the BED temp is 60 Celcius. if the day is humid I use 65 Celcius bed temp with PETG .  if you are printing ABS you need to put a box over the printer if your printer does not have an enclosure. do not DO NOT use the fan with ABS or PETG.  With these filaments including nylon filament using a fan causes warping and seperation. because I do not use that junk PLA I have removed the Fan from my printer.

hi nallycat

i didn know you could raise the temp so high? i am uploading a video . i post it here .maybe you can see if the raft is good and the video is useble.

yes with ABS i turn of the Fan, 100degre celcius for bad, and 240 nozzle but still promleb in big size object

ericez

there is your diff in temp.maybe try it like nallycat.

here is the video.i think its a perfect raft.

if the glass is clean lightly sand the glass with sandpaper to make a few fine scratches don't  overdue this as the part will be hard to remove, use hairspray on the glass. use the tempatures I use and put a box over the printer if you do not have a printer that has an enclosure.  some print beds can only go to 100 degree celcius it should still be fine, if it can go higher use the higher temp.because heating the bed so hot can take a long time. that is why people do not like to print with ABS     EricEZ  is your printer enclosed. you can't print large without an enclosure.

i ordered some wood to make an enclosure.i can print 3 parts in a row without cleaning the glas. then i scrape the glue off and clean with isopropyl.90%.good am using junk pla. for me abs will be for much later.

@nallycat no encloser, but i has been try printing inside the box, but  is fail

EricEZ

do you have a picture of a failled print? that can be very helpfull.

@EricEZ  A failed print usually means that object did not stick to the bed, it will release if it warps. if the bed is not prepared properly, the first layer is made to far from the bed and if the speed is  to fast, and in the case of ABS cooling is to fast.   check your print nozzle to bed spacing the bottom of the print should be as smooth as the glass it is printed on  you should not see individual print lines.  Make sure you print on glass use hairspray, check your nozzle height from bed   one sheet of printing paper. in the slicing program slow down the first 2 layers. do not use a fan, cover the printer so it is warm inside the box or enclosure before printing.   IF all of this fails I suggest you use PET G instead of ABS, PET G is stronger then ABS but is much easier to print you do not  need an enclosure. bed only needs to be 60-65 deg C  hot end temp is the hottest suggested temp listed on the filament roll.  maybe 220c you must use retraction.  as PET G is stringy and you will get lots of strings if you don't, but to much retraction  will result in nozzle clogs.  I use 3mm with my all metal hotend, you may need more retraction if you use a regular hotend.    run a test print  2 test cubes on the build plate.  there should be no strings between the cubes if there is then increase  the retraction 1mm, test again until there are no strings.     I have built two Inmoov robots using PET-G and never have a Print failure or strings.    use weldon 3 to join PET G prints it is a solvent weld and is stronger then the print itself.

new colum .servo is less viseble.

@Nomad6R   very nice, and neat, I can see that servo is further in.   good Job.

hey nallycat

the printer is awesome.i could use 10 off these.xD.and 50 rolls yellow.

next to come is the front supports and knee.

Did you build that one, its really cool!! Awesome robot design, you should make a seperate thread for this build!!

hi mickey

its not my design.i love the walkin gait.i got the stl's from a guy in thinkverse. i need to scale up and test print all.i think its a great play robot for fight.

i have a new symptome with the printer.hope someone can tell me how to chut off this setting. the printer start to chake to fill up spaces.he does this so hard that the glas bed moves, even with 6 big clips on.how can i chut this off?

Hey, I had this too once...check your pulleys, and make sure there is no dirt anywhere on your printer! This should be fixable!!!

hi mickey

its a new printer.i cant feel any movement there or see dirt.i think its a setting. the printer goes round and make a sorta pit,then he fills it with lot off filament, by doing ,the printer chakes alot.and thats when it happens.the glas bed chift a few MM. even with 6 clips one.

@Nomad 6R  The printe head is making a lot of small movements in a small area,   you need to check your print job and slice it again and look to see if there is something wrong iwith the .stl file. open that print job in another program like 3D Builder that can detect errors and repair them.

hi nallycat

ah ok i have a look.

thanks guys&girls

here's some new pics and video.lower arm connected to ( hand ).

am using the MG995 servo's.the (hand have a lay in ,looks cooler.

Nice!! Good progress!!

EUREKA i finally got the chest correct.it has stabelizers ,so there is no unwanted movements there. it protects the spline from the servo.you can use the HDD/MG995 or any big servo you want.

here's some picture's

i changed the colors for the brackets in yellow.the name will be red color. and as you can see i got a tooth more haha .now he's got 3 tooth.lol also made the brackets little shorter. a little video.

hi nallycat

i downloaded the 3d builder to inspect my parts.i am not sure what to look for? so i made a little video. the pic is superman when he was young.lol.

So nice to see your modeling skills to improve with every post!!

hi mickey

thanks.its amazing how time goes by.i can do this day&night.

@normad 6R  your video of the part looks good if you select all in ARC it sometimes artomatically detects part errors and does a repair, send me the part I will run it through ez bulder here  and report back to you  the results.

hey nallycat

great tips you giving me.many thanks.here is the chest.

chest anthony robot

left arm reddy.waist reddy and head movement. to do tomorow right arm. finally i have four teeth .still printing.1 day and 1 night.lol.

and a little video

what the heck????

@Normad 6R   Hi I just completed the file repair and did not find anything except a few duplicate triangles.  I suggest that you Print this with the way repositioned it that is from the small side down, it will take less time and should eliminate any print errors and have less support material.  here is the repaired file. chest big +head servo.stl  if you have any questions you know how to find me.

hi nallycat

thanks for cheking.got it.here's the head complete.4 teeth.

a little video

two (hands ) reddy.two feets reddy.

some update on anthony robot.and a riddle for you all. aldo the 3d part is level in anyway you hold it as seen in the video. so question is ? what cause the 3d part is not level on the servo.

some changes on the ankle colum.

@Normad 6R  is your desk top level?

hi nallycat

yes as you can see in the pic.

something is 2% procent off center.thats why you dont see it.i stumble on it just by accident.

doing some test with the front chin.i never don this before so any tips ideas are very welkom. sofar it looks i need to chorten the front chin with 4MM .

new design front chin.i found the older design little big.

here's a little video about the new chin.fourth design is printing now.

final chin is reddy.3 more to go.

the one on the left is the correct one.

little video .the front chin is nice vertikel now.

a new error with 3d printing.layer chift.anyone knows what to do?

@Normad 6R The print head collided with something. Maybe something got in the way of the printer, or maybe plastic has been piling up on part of the print and then the print head hit that spot. Your printer is trying to move too fast and the motors cannot keep up.

hi nallycat

too fast , i will try slower then. thanks for fast respons.

okay i tested it.lower speed is inddeed much better.but stil i have layer chift.in the begin and last part of the print.

here is a pic with error message.

seems pic below is not correct.

try the print without the raft.  there is an error and I am not familiar with your printer screen,  not sure what I am seeing.  reset the Printer to DEFAULT SETTING you may  have entered a setting that is not correct for your printer.  I print from my Computer using a USB cable using a very good Program called Simplify3d.    If the data flow to the printer is interrupted for even a second it can lose  it's  position and start printing in the wrong position.  if you are using a Mem card in the printer to print from   format that card and reinstall the .stl file.  if you are using a usb cable remove from computer and printer  cable and switch the ends.  check to see if you have the cable near a high voltage source like it's power supply and move the cable away from this. even shielded cable can loose the data flow with an  electrical pulse. remove all the stepper motor cables one at a time and reseat on the controller card. check your ground connection.

hi nallycat

i found this video with all settings for ender-3 and with your tip off setting speed lower.it works. i cant paste video's here? but as seen in pic above ,the numbers 500 chould be 2500x2500x100x25. now the robot is assembled and now comes the flaws in the design.lol:( few things to adjust.

hello nallycat:D

question ,how can i reduce some support on my 3d prints? if thats a good idea ? i al using cura 4.5.0

@Nomad 6R   I do not use cura with the program simplify3d I can put the supports where I want, or reduce the amount  of support material I don't know if  cura has this capability. but usually I just reposition the part on the build plate, as long as the object does not have an overhang of more then 45 degree it can be printed without support, the change I made to your part that I checked for you. I sent it back to you on it's short side. there was an angle to the rest  of the part but it was under 45 degree.  and could have been printed without support  one overhang at the top may have been rough at the bottom.  another way of saying you don't have to print flat.  sometimes printing from a corner for example only puts support to hold the part in that position. that may reduce the support material.

new actuader,is that a servo

did you print this? EzAng

no no i think they are newest servo's.

great stuff, where do you get these servos?

i dont have these servo's.they are not yet for sale i gess.

That is a great moving robot

EzAng

XR-1 is really cool...but also I like this one, it is Open Source. So maybe we can build our own remix?

hey mickey

thats a nice one too and printable.

here's zoe blue head

Great going Nomad - looks good

did you use Pla or abs?

I just purchased my 3d printer, it will arrive soon. yeah!

EzAng

hi EzAng

this is pla dark blue .abs will be for much later.

witch printer did you ordered? and glas bed?

I only going to buy one, I believe, so I bought the:

Creality CR-10S Pro FDM 3D Printer Creative, Auto Leveling Capricorn PTFE Dual Extruder Gears, 300x300x400mm, PLA ABS, for Hobbyists, Designers and Home Users

I got dizzy watching so many videos - pros and cons on every 3d printer

I will try my best! EzAng

you will soon be building an inmoove then.lol. you will like it.

Yeah!  this is exciting

inmoves have been done, I want something better lol

I also purchased a glass bed

EzAng

oh what are you going to build then? are you familiar with tinkercad?

Yes I am aware of tinkercad

One thing at a time is my seed, lol

I am an old Linux, Debian guy, so I am also re-doing my Linux with , ROS (Robot Operating System) programs, python learning

For today, leaving my home going to our farm, country land to do some physical work :-(  but it has to be done. bush hogging  and all the rest etc...

At our farm, country land - no internet, to far out, only a hot spot on my phone, talk later my friend.

be well

EzAng

More for you to print, lol

Here are some, I believe reachy the robot files , check this please https://github.com/pollen-robotics/reachy

EzAng

Heeeeey!!!! You did it!!! You are amazing @Nomad6R, the print came out great!! Zoe is happy to meet you!!!

hi mickey

great picture off zoe.question.how does the head frame fits in the head? i dont see it.

thanks

Oh sorry, you wanted to know how the frame is fitting into the head...wait one second!!

@Mickey666Maus

I'm very curious to how you made that diagram, it looks awesome!

Nomad, Now that I purchased a 3d printer, I want to build a robot with one of the robot talking heads I made, seems like fun.

We'll see,

EzAng

ezang

designing heads is not easy.and you need to learn your printer. do it slow and practise with small things first. howmany heads do you have?

Right I will take it very slow, lol

I have the Roman head to start I put on yesterday  the Richard head, did you see it?

EzAng

yes i saw it on youtube.love the mouchstache&beard.lol you can use the body from jd and modified that in TC for excample

Last Image was too big!!

lol, it is a regular size head, JD would look like an alien lol

EzAng

I can't wait to see your robot you are printing

Ezang

mickey

thank you for the picture.very helpfull.

Ezang

you mean the yellow robot?if yes all parts are reddy. soon i start testing walk gait.

Nomad, nallycat  does not like PLA?  Why?

Is ABS better?  What mm?

EzAng

abs is much stronger but you need some experiants . also your printer need to be in a sorta case . thats why start with pla .you also need isopropyl to clean the bed.also UHU sticks, there a lot off stuff to learn,one of the most is bed leveling.aldo yours is automatic,stil needs to check by hand. on a roll filament you can read the temperature use the highest reading.each color is diff. i use esun cause there rolls are transparent.so you can see howmuch filament you have left.

is the PETG  1.75mm?

EzAng

i forgot.see the instruction off your printer.i gess the nozzle is 0.4 mm and filament 1.75 mm   printer c10

ok I will check when it gets here, thanks

you have petg in 1.75 .

petg 1.75

great news, thanks again

petg is kinda rubber.here a pic see label temp,nozzle,bed,color and size. this sticker is also on the roll.

Thanks Nomad,

I ordered all 3 to see how they print for myself: PLA, ABS and PET G

Just got cleaned up from bush hogging some of my property

Did I miss anything?  lol

EzAng

@Normad 6R   PETG is the same plastic they use to make soft drink bottles out of,   it is not rubber but printed thin it has some flexibility.  use the highest temp list on the box for extruder the bed temp use 65 deg and make sure you use retraction if you don't you will have lots of strings.  to join 2 pieces together use Weldon 3 it is a solvent bond.  use acetone to bond ABS.  I do not use PLA as it deforms at 75 deg no good for robots.   PETG is very resistant to damage.  if you think differently try to rip a coke bottle good luck with that.

hi nallycat

oh is flex then maybe the rubber one?thanks  for correcting me.

nallycat, you seem to know a lot about 3d printers, the dos and don'ts.

Can you make a list or your findings? I know it will help me and others.

Also let's see some of your prints,

thanks,

EzAng

hi EzAng

1 first see that you have all item's,filament,UHU sticks,isopropyl 90% 2learn your printer ,buttons how to use it. 3learn your slicer and tinkercad 4learn leveling off the bed very important to even get a print done. 5 test print learn how to get a print to stick on the bed,and how to clean your bed after. you can make a testprint with raft .that gifs you time to see if your bed is level.

uhu sticks

@EzAng  I am just finishing the head od ZOE that Mickey was so nice to give us.  it will be just a little longer, you can see one of my two Inmoov robots and they were printed on my flsun large delta printer.  I always use a glass bed with hairspray "AUSSIE" and never have parts warping and coming off the build table.  as you know I don't put much of my work on this site as I am sure you know the reason.  Here is Brucee a few years ago when I made his new elbows. have a look.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfD0saECb0A  I will make a  list for printing when I find the time for you.  all my prints are in PETG with some nylon carbon fiber infused filament  for gears. Thanks for your comment.    glad you will be joining the 3D printing group.

thanks for the response

I am not sure about what you mean, " as you know I don't put much of my work on this site as I am sure you know the reason. Not here long enough, Not sure what reason, can you explain?

I will watch the video when I get out of the farm , country land I have, I am on a phone hot stop, no internet out here :-)

Anyway I will wait for the 3d printer tutorial list, thanks

EzAng

@nallycat Super stoked that you printed the head already!! Let me know once you have hooked him up to some servos for testing!! Where can we find more of your work, do you have a website?

@Mickey666Maus    I have added a mouth to ZOE and I am still working on the mechanism to make it work.  Mickey when you make 2 large inmoov robots you become very good at 3d printing and you get fast at printing.  I am not at my best when designing parts but I am getting better.   I don't have a website, I always had the desire to have one but never got around to it.  I should say I admire your presentations of ZOE on synthiam, they are very professional.  Thanks again for the .stl files for ZOE.

Guys, I am really happy you are having fun...its cool to see that things are picking up some pace!! Isn't it the best thing when robot fever hits you hard!!

That's what I love most about our little DIY Family here!!

Hi Nomad, how is the printing going?

I am back at my house with internet, yeah!

EzAng

tomorrow is printing time.head assembly and body.

Hi nomad, can.t wait for my 3d printer to appear, what are you into now?

EzAng

waiting for parts like a batterie.:( is your printer a building kit?

4 or 5 screws and it is together, I believe

EzAng

Want me to test your robot, I am back home from our farm, country land?

EzAng