Um... No jumpers. No where in the instructions did it say jumpers. Will go grab some today.

As far as terminals, this is how they came. The one moves a smidgen. The one on left by in4 in pic.

Ahh, we found The problem & another. Instead of jumpers, lets run 2 more wires to EZ-B, which will give you speed control aswell. The outer 2 pins on the 2nd row (ignore the center 2 pins) are the Enable Pins, EnA & EnB, run each to a digital port on EZ-B. In ARC, add 2 PWM Sliders (Add Control > PWM > PWM Slider) and configure them to the ports you connected EnA & EnB to. Put the 2 PWM Sliders to 75% and test your motors from the H-Bridge Movement Panel!

That terminal block that moves a smidge, most likely has a broken solder joint which will need repaired. Do you have a soldering iron by chance?

EnA & EnB: OK I will try that when I get home.

I did look at the solder and it seemed to be fine. But will double check.

I do have a solder iron. (one time I made an elven crown out of solder for halloween. It was a B%$&h to work with. The end result wasn't bad though, light weight and easily forms to the wearers head.)

Thank you... Thank you! You guys are so awesome :o)

I am bringing my Minion to Maker Faire and am hoping he'll actually be functioning.

I think that just might work. Thanks guys!

just in case..this schematic of my H bridge hookup might help.... (go to page 2 of the thread)

...This looks like the same H bridge I have in Legion...(my RAD 2.0 bot)

I have a schematic posted on how I wired my H bridge.....you do need to write a custom Movement Panel script to make this work....I can provide mine if you think that might help.

v/r

kevin

LEGION thread

@Kevin - What do you mean you need to write a customer movement panel?

After putting the two wires on EnA & EnB, the left motor works. He now goes in a circle....

sounds like you are getting it working......great! you gotta love the one legged duck syndrome!

You will need to write individual scripts for each movement.... the H bridge you have is not one of the ones DJ has as part of the drop down menu....correct?......so you will need to write a short script for each movement.....then point to those scripts inside what DJ calls a movement script (panel).

You are controlling 4 things with 4 Digital Signals (your digital ports of course may be different) -motor fwd polarity -motor reverse polarity -turn on right motor -turn on left motor

here is how it works don't freak out if this does not make sense to start

Create Custom EZB script: Add Control/Scripting/EZ Script

Turn Right set(d18,off) ;Comment...Set left motor to Reverse set(d8,on) ;Comment....Set Right motor to forward set(d19,on);Comment....Turn on Left motor set(d9,on); Comment...Turn on Right motor sleep(1000) ;Comment....this turns the bot to the right for 1 second (you can make it longer) set(d19,off) ;Comment...Stop Left Motor set(d9,off) ; Comment....Stop Right Motor

Turn Left set(d18,on) set(d8,off) set(d19,on) set(d9,on) sleep(1000) ;Comment...this turns the bot to the left for 1 second set(d19,off) set(d9,off)

Move Forward set(d18,off) ;Comment...turn right motor to forward set(d8,off) ; Comment...turn left motor to forward set(d19,on); Comment....turn on left motor set(d9,on); Comment turn on right motor

sleep(2000) ; comment...optional....depending on how you want to control your bot.......

set(d19,off)

set(d9,off)

Move Backward set(d18,on) set(d8,on) set(d19,on) set(d9,on) sleep(1000) set(d19,off) set(d9,off)

Now you need to create a Movement Script that will launch the Forward/Backward/Left/Right scripts

Movement Script (from the pull down...Add Control/Scripting/Movement Script) ControlCommand("Stop",scriptstart) ControlCommand("Forward",scriptstart) ControlCommand("Turn Right,scriptstart) ControlCommand("Turn Left,scriptstart)

We will help you with this........it is not too bad once you get the hang of it... as they say in Horton Hears a Who......we are here!

v/r

kevin

Progress, Yay! The 2 connections on the lose screw terminals prolly just needs reflowed... That means touching a hot soldering iron to the joints on the bottom of the board, briefly reliquifing the solder already there.