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Canada
Asked

I'm Going To Build An Inmoov, Any Advice?

Hello, Synthiam community!

I'm going to need your help. I would like to build an inMoov for the first time. I want to take full advantage of the new Quest VR skill that can control the individual fingers of a robot.

I do have experience with building the head and shoulder servos, and a bit of experience operating it. Oh yes, and I have helped build a base for the upper body. Otherwise, I am a clean slate. 

I'll be using all the EZ-Robot parts that I can. I will power it from a 5V 20A power supply as I've done in the past (with the super cap mod). I may design an external power board. I like the idea of including pins and switches.

I will be using EZ-Robot prototype high-torque servos any place a HS805BB servo is needed. I might replace some with EZ-Robot HDD servos if they can handle the job, as they are pretty torquey themselves (maybe the neck). 

  1. I have a head printed already, should I continue going from the head down to the stomach?

  2. Should I print the legs or is it a waste of time at this point since they aren't functional yet.

  3. Am I ok using PLA, or should I really get into the PETG game? Or PLA+?

  4. I read that 30% infill should be used, is this right or should I go thicker/thinner in some places?

  5. Should I use 2 shells when printing or is 3 or 4 better?

  6. What are good methods for propping up the inMoov during the process.

  7. What type of lubricant is best for the worm gears? White lithium grease?

  8. What are some of the biggest challenges I'll face? Are the hands quite difficult?

  9. Do you recommend a particular Youtuber or inMoov build page?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give!


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PRO
Belgium
#85  
hi jeremie

those looks very nice prints . for sanding and fit the parts , mostly ,
sand the corners . parts are not actully round .

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PRO
Canada
#86  
Thanks @Nomad!!

Unfortunately, it’s not the exterior faces that I’m worried about but rather the connection points between pieces. They are beyond tight.

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PRO
Belgium
#87  
did you try to fit ontop and from below ? 
i hammered mine in .
#88  
Yep the hammer is the only way you are going to get these together
#89  
What servos are you using?  And what are they rated at?
PRO
USA
#90  
You could also try a large pair of channel lock pliers.
PRO
Canada
#91  
I’m looking for less blunt force optionsxD I know sanding will help for sure!

I’m using prototype Digital servos rated at 40 kgcm
PRO
Canada
#92  
I think I may have found a couple of viable options for precision sanding:

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https://www.amazon.ca/WEN-6307-Variable-Detailing-Sander/dp/B072Q2FTLY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2FH8K4D3LZOH2&keywords=Detailing+File+Sander&qid=1655410792&sprefix=detailing+file+sander%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-6

or

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https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Micro-Sander?gclid=CjwKCAjwqauVBhBGEiwAXOepkcFUfXalSdNzLBh-5DpE1Cdj6eSAeAyODdyLwW1LbprHxXBl0oH5NhoCZMEQAvD_BwE

I'm leaning toward the Micromark since it looks like it can really get into those hard-to-reach places......actually saying that reminds me that mechanical toothbrushes could be considered micro-sanders, wonder if there's a conversion kit out there.....
PRO
Canada
#93  
It exists!! Well, a few DIY versions exist on Youtube. There seems to be an oscillating nail file that exists as well.

PRO
Canada
#95  
Oh that's cool I may have to get one of those bad boys...*cool*
PRO
Germany
#96  
the fits were also bad for me, I used this:

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PRO
Canada
#97   — Edited
@UweP Good to know I’m not alone! Actually I’ve heard from several people now that the tight fit is likely by design to keep everything solid.

I lol’d when I saw your picture because I have those tools but they are what I’m trying to avoid at all costs! I know how long manual filing takes, so I am looking for ways to streamline the process. Any time saving ideas are welcome because I place a strong value on efficiency. Funny enough, that is what lead me to working with DJ. His software was so efficient at controlling and programming robots that I abandoned all previously learned architectures to go all-in with ARC (EZ-Build3r back then).
#99  
I had to sand damn near every dovetail on my inmoov. You get a knack for it eventually. Some I could heat with a heat gun and get them to go. Some I used the hammer, some worked, some cracked the female part of the joint. It was a chore.
Turns out that I spent a lot of time calibrating my printer and found that I had printed my inmoov at 1.06 scale. The other issue was that I was getting 'elephant footing' which really interfered with the joints.
Any advise I could give is to calibrate well, troubleshoot any anonymous printing conditions, and combine some of the smaller prints prior to printing if your print bed will take it.
#100  
It is all about your printer being calibrated correctly.  When your printer is setup correctly the joints will be tight as they should be but won’t need to be sanded. That is what I found doing my build.
#101  
Jeremie,  If my new arms workout I have both shoulders and biceps already printed in black if you think you may want them let me know and we can work out shipping.
PRO
Belgium
#102  
hi averyone

i found this tabel for using flex filament . if you ever need to print excample wheels .

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PRO
Canada
#103   — Edited
@smiller29 while I do appreciate the offer, I will be redesigning almost everything in the shoulders to accept a different servo. The biceps I would like to have in white. Actually, I should give you some updates as I am in the process of printing some of the arm pieces while I wait for myself to finish the modifications I need to finishxD

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P.S. I also think I've found a good solution for precision filing, we'll find out tonight! My other solutions have failed mexD
#104  
OK no problem I will just hang on to them...  please post what kind of mods you are making I would to see them.