
robo rad
Canada
Asked
— Edited
Wheeler Chair Robot
I saw that last year somebody had built a wheel chair robot?. My idea for the new Robot will be as a stage mascot that can also pretend to play the drums on stage. My brother has a live Metal band every Saturday night and most of the time we have trouble with no drummer showing up. We end up using a Drum machine instead with the 2 other guys on real guitars and singing. So Terminator will be able to move around and substitute behind the drum kit with the Live drum machine signal activating terminator arms at the drums. Also need him to move around in a wheel chair , so is anyone out there that has done this wheel chair hack, looking for suggestions on power/motor controller connections etc...should not be too hard just larger than I'm used to building. This is a youtuber that bought what I just bought,takes a month to get from China and we are building the rest of the Endoskeleton to integrate in wheel chair....
Related Hardware EZ-B v4
Cylon Kit So now I have a second robot on the way ,got the kit to build the original Cylon Helmet ,not sure if he is sending me the rough chrome kit or the un-finished vinyl kit either way it should be fun to put together and stick an EZ-B in there! Now T-800 has a friend on the way! If you need any other props like a Predator or anything he builds all types of Starwars,Horror anything Sci-Fi these for TV and movies....https://www.facebook.com/Kropserkel/photos/a.389055574322/10156883260729323/?type=3&theater
;)Now if you can just think of problems outside the box there are always simple sollutions. Instead of expensive Actuator Servos I have an idea from being a car guy...The old scissor jack that you can lift a car really high could be used with this method to make Terminator skeleton double it's height. Only need a heavy duty motor to turn a modified scissor jack up or down or whatever design is used in a power window even! A scissor jack could be used if it is made with less resistance to turn, I have 3 of them in my car but a motor would need too much torque right now but could possibly made to work with another window Lift motor.
I am not really liking the old rad body in the middle, I think I will go out to home hardware and see about getting a thick plumbing pipe or an aluminum tube to be strong enough to go from the bottom all the way up to the neck part, The rad body just looks to old and "Plastic" A bit too flimsy for a Terminator,LOL! The PVC pipe I have now is also not strong enough in the center ,it will be okay going to the skull part only. It needs to be made really tough and sturdy. I also want to make the pipe look like the spine from the Terminator movies so I will need to get creative and shape out some hexagon spine connectors to go all the way up and have them looking like chrome after.Many nuts and bolts I will need to buy.More smaller tubes as well to imitate what is in the movie then the chest and back plate I will use some type of light weight plastic and chrome paint them.
EDIT....... On more testing ,the Rad body in the middle really seems to help as a shock absorber when moving forward or backwards, The body has a motor and a spring that controls the waist movement for lean forwards/Lean backwards and this gives the whole robot a nice cushion effect as the head is heavy at 5 pounds and will slightly move backwards if it is taking off suddenly and slightly forward when stopping suddenly, a shock absorbing effect, Possibly good to have. It will be hidden anyway with the front chest plate bars and arm /shoulder linkages. I will likely paint that inner body black but have all the tubes and chest in chrome as well. Trying to replicate what side show does on their whole 1000.00 bust piece.....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAj3D6O-yjA
Edit------So I have been just studying all the sideshow models of the T-800/600 life size statues and I can see what I am doing wrong with my Model. It is directly where the bottom of his neck is, that is where the Shock absorber shoulders and arms are supposed to go and on my model the Rad body arms connections are way too Low. I am going to need to raise the body up to the neck bone part and from there buy the 4 small shock absorbers (or just make look a like shocks) The chest plate is easy to make and just add on to the Rad body with self tap screws(Or hot glue LOL!)Similar the back plating. Some of my creative artistic painting skills to get the battle damaged chrome look and I just love it when a plan comes together! I will grab my scissor jack and add that to the bottom inside the vacuum battery can. I found out any old cordless drill can crank the scissor jack up and down. So did I mention I want this T-800 thing to look like a real monster at these out door festivals in summer, Take it out for a night walk and just watch the old people collapse from heart attacks LOL! I am worried about getting the mouth jaw part to move as it talks since, the Chrome process has glued it all shut I have not tried to pry it open yet,a bit too scared to crack any other chrome around it.
Edit---Testing the 2 motors on a bench with my 5 Amp 7.4 Lipo battery went really well! even with half speed the motors are very powerful and not too fast just perfect for a robot . They have internal worm gears which means they will not move not even budge until power is applied and then the torque is so high you can't stop them with your hand. Very quiet too, I am so impressed,exactly what I wanted!

Here is a cool idea for a stage performing Robot! I attached the front chest piece higher up and now it looks proper where the shoulders and arms can fit but I will need to cut the bottom a bit to make it look right and connect to a back plate with custom made shock absorbers as rod links. It is starting to come together the way I planned it in my head and I can make it rigid as tall as me!