i changed the wires from the arms,looks much better.
also 2 slots more would be better in the front.
you can use normal arm then whithout the problem choulderservo heating up.
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I like the idea for routing the arm wires. I added additional servos to give the arms more length and capability (and mounted one on the back, instead of the side) and the wire bundles are now so big I can't easily put the cover on without pulling connections loose.
For the front, I used an extension cube to mound a servo with a ping sensor, and I also have an IR sensor pointed down to prevent Roli from driving down the stairs attached to the bottom of hte servo (that is what the zip tie is for. None of the types of glue I have tried so far would hold the sensor to the bottom of the servo. You could use an extension block instead of or along with one or more extension cubes to add more front connectors.
do you also have problems with heating up from the choulders
i try al rotation servo's i had also the new ones but they always heat up,
even with new calibration,thats why i take a chorter arm.
your roli looks very technical,very neat build.
yes there chould be more female connector on the body roli.
If I leave the arms extended and bearing weight then yes, they heat up because the servos are working to hold the position. I set up auto-position "resting" positions that put the "shoulder" pointed up, as well as lower strain positions for the other servos, so all of the weight isn't being held by the motors.
yeach i did desame thing ,i made resting pose upwarts.
the heating starts by the first move they make.
so i move them forwarts and one less.if there where two slots more ,forwart.
that would be great.and some neat holes undernead to pull the wires thru.
That can also work. When I was building my longer arm, I experimented with cubes and extension blocks. I decided for ultimate mobility to just use more servos, but if you are just looking for reach straight ahead, then cubes or blocks will give you that.
I like the idea for routing the arm wires. I added additional servos to give the arms more length and capability (and mounted one on the back, instead of the side) and the wire bundles are now so big I can't easily put the cover on without pulling connections loose.
For the front, I used an extension cube to mound a servo with a ping sensor, and I also have an IR sensor pointed down to prevent Roli from driving down the stairs attached to the bottom of hte servo (that is what the zip tie is for. None of the types of glue I have tried so far would hold the sensor to the bottom of the servo. You could use an extension block instead of or along with one or more extension cubes to add more front connectors.
Alan
do you also have problems with heating up from the choulders i try al rotation servo's i had also the new ones but they always heat up, even with new calibration,thats why i take a chorter arm. your roli looks very technical,very neat build. yes there chould be more female connector on the body roli.
If I leave the arms extended and bearing weight then yes, they heat up because the servos are working to hold the position. I set up auto-position "resting" positions that put the "shoulder" pointed up, as well as lower strain positions for the other servos, so all of the weight isn't being held by the motors.
The photo is in the resting position.
Alan
yeach i did desame thing ,i made resting pose upwarts. the heating starts by the first move they make. so i move them forwarts and one less.if there where two slots more ,forwart. that would be great.and some neat holes undernead to pull the wires thru.
You could use an extension cube and an extension block to push the arms closer to the front.
something like this:
i was thinking cube between the servo's.
That can also work. When I was building my longer arm, I experimented with cubes and extension blocks. I decided for ultimate mobility to just use more servos, but if you are just looking for reach straight ahead, then cubes or blocks will give you that.
Alan
its more the look then actully useble.