jstarne1
Ez Robot community I wanted to introduce my latest application of this system. Some members hear already know I keep two salt water aquariums one coral which unfortunately died off and my predator tank. Sea life needs delicate balance maintained in their little ecosystem. Things like light spectrum , temperature, ph balance , current of water , nitrate and ammonia levels and calcium levels. These things take a practiced hand to maintain. I am building a new system and using ez b to monitor salinity, nitrates and ammonia, temp , water current flow and the ph. The ADC ports are useful for these and EZ board can control the current and switching to a backup power supply ( a apc for computers inside the cabinet to keep ezb and pumps powered). Also the ezb can turn on and off night , morning , day , and evening lighting settings. With a custom injection device im designing ezb can provide nutrients , calcium and even medicine if levels are out of wack. I started the build today and I am very excited!
This is the walmart cabinet assembled and had a fake woodgrain. I tried painting the top but latex paint did not like the laminate. I had to spray primer down to get the black latex paint to stick.
This was only made to hold a 75 pound tv. I went to home depot and had 3/4" plywood cut. The bottom of the cabinet only had 3 sides touching the floor. Front and sides. The plywood was installed and the back and extended all the way down to the floor and is now a 4 side supporting the load of the tank. Also we cut a bottom to support all four sides with 2 inch screws. On the back I predrilled and screwed the 2 inch screws in 5 inches apart.
I too couldn't find a stand I liked so I built an enclosed, hooded one out of oak. The frist problem I had was ventilation. With all the lighting needed in a reef tank the water temperature really shot up. Remember to put lots of fans with lots of ways for the heat and humidity to escape. I'm sure you know heat is a killer. E-B can help you with that also!
One more suggestion, seal the inside with a good marine clear coat.
I'll be watching your progress. What fun!
Dave Schulpius
I will now be content to observe Josh's fish instead... want to set up a fish cam Josh?... Muuhhaahahah
Have fun, Dave
Or go all out and make it a tetherless ROV like was done in on this site:
LEGO ROV without tether
Maybe I could grab one of these tiny little guys and put a ez cam inside... its 16 dollars on amazon if I took the cam out of the case maybe it would fit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FBEShODiAA&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Youtube test video. Its very agile. Honesty I would prob put a resistor on the motor so that it slows down for smoother operation. If I cant put the cam in the sub and it still be operational I will put it inside anyways and use it as a place to hide the ez cam....
I think the cam would look good dead center and I could silicon all the way around the lenses
Ok these guys are just 6 dollars each. I will probably buy 6 or 7 so I have a couple to mess up during the mounting process.
A fitting this short should allow me to easily fit three canisters side by side. I already attached the mounting hardware to the top of the canisters and somehow I managed to loose one of tje brackets! Seriously? Thats soo frustrating.
Since I really only need the mechanism and not the daily timer I can hack it. I will look on ebay for a used on or cheaper model since I am going to hack it anyways.
The goal here is to make connections close together so I could get three canisters in the left half of the stand. Heres a pic showing about 5 inches of play plenty enough to get a 90 degree elbow on the left end
Ok 17 dollars shipped. For this mini explorer submarine. Where the center led is im thinking is great for a camera!
Three color light on the way
Also current generators
Preparing to move the tank onto the new cabinet I remove about 30 gallons of the 55. Even then it still weights 200 pounds or better so it was some serious grunting to get it moved. Then when I sat my end down dan had not moved his fingers and got them seriously squished.
with an awesome idea to get a few white , blue and yellow leds and get ezb to flash them quickly like lighting from a storm. How cool would that be? Oh this is a cool project.
In this system I have a chato algae canister , gfo canister , carbon canister. One is empty at the moment. Once I added the material I got lots of air in the system and now its pushing lots of bubbles.
The chato needs light to live and grow and it will be a few days till equipment gets here so im using a house hold energy saving bulb at the moment. Because the cabinet is tinted even with lights on inside the cabinet it blocks most the light.
This is a pic showing the regular lamp lighting the chato algae
This is the door closed , there are a couple tiny cracks I will cover but mostly it looks good..
Blue submarine (to encase ez cam) arrival usps Nov 9
T5 Marine parts light UPS Nov 8
4 powerhead 350 gph pumps (to make waves) Nov 9
125 snails (aid the automatic system as natural cleaners)
Tip220 switching transistors to control ac power relays as interface between ezb and relays) nov 7
The ez cam inside the sub is a no go. Even outside the case its too small.
This is a uv/purple looking bulb 18,000k
A 10, 000k white bulb and actinic blue bulb
Here is an example pic with these bulbs lit.
Once I got the baffle in bubbles were reduced significantly and I slowed down flow so it can clear up. Trail and error is part of making a automated system so im taking it step by step.
I have this used server case im thinking I can use to house the relays and other electronics. I could put ezb in but I am mildly concerned about getting the wireless connection to Jarvis. I may do a external antenna mod in this case.... well see.
Your tank pictures are really nice... makes me want to get into salt water fish now... heh, when I am rich maybe
You going to do a fish cam broadcast?
Short diagram
Individual control for purple , blue and white bulbs by relays because they are 110 volts
4 blue leds are night lighting
4 white leds simulate lighting during a storm
1 ultrasonic pointed down to measure level to trigger top off pumps.
Ok back to ezb business.... I really want this setup to be isolated from other projects for reliability and consistancy reasons. I looked on craigslist and bought a computer and also a spare that the guys says needs a hard drive and os... so only one is good at the moment. It was 30 dollars so I certainly wont complain. It is a older system but should be enough for a dedicated ezb brain.
More and more successes !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkRQg-46aDY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
I know this is all about the EZ-B integration, but more videos please
that would be cool. The Bionic Dog~!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KfwVmdVblU&feature=youtube_gdata_player
my next tank getting is 100 gallons for saltwater fish
but my most excited item getting is my new pet RING TAIL LEMUR they go for $1500 plus a special 8 foot by 8 foot cage THAT NEEDS TO BE BOUGHT FIRST cage i got for $500 ,comming in jan 12 and in feb getting in the lemur i put a deposit on him of $700 ,gthey are hard to own in some states since exotic animal,cant wait to get my little lady added to my family,monkey may be next on my list
one i am getting for my big tank is a stingray without the stingers,and others too
i am getting a LONG TAIL LEMUR in a few months after i build a very large outside cage
so the EZB wiill be good for temperature monitor,alarm system, maybe a rain gauge and food monitor
plus have the camera keep a eye on him
EZB not for just robots but everything else too,
also thought about X10 system ,but would be very very costly,for every outlet,lights control.A/C control and SPA controller and more in my house,would need well over 1000 of EZB
Original 10 watt by replacement 40 watt 2700k bulb
I picked up this sea urchin to start cleaning proactively the corners and hard to reach areas. You can see he literally sticks he mouth in the corner to grab algae growth. I may get a couple more of these guys. While at my fish supplier Justins Frags , hes sold me on the idea of using a kessel led light. Using two servos I could gradually raise light as if the sun was coming up and even change the amount of blue and simulate sun going down. I cannot dim a flouresent light. So ezb will be connected straigh to the kessel.
I thought ofr making one with servo's ,but since so cheap i bought them
it is very costly $500 at rated pump is 900 GPH
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=13185456&lmdn=Fish+Filtration+%26amp%3B+Circulation&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo
my sister help me find the best one made
Ok I picked up plexiglass from lowes and began measuring and cutting. In the entry way the tank has a three section bubble trap. The center section is where algae , live rock and the spaghetti (chato algae) the idea is to completly infest this area with bacteria and plant life to pull the nutritional solids like fish poop , decaying food an proteins.
can add another type to add oxygen
also adding a lot of air stones release oxygen and adding plants
but there is a machine if needed to turn salt into oxygen,my dad has one for his pool
but airstones also the best i have the whole back wall line of stones ,like a wall of bubbles
another item i am getting is CO2 REACTOR ,ONE FOR MY FRESHWATER PLANTS and one for my saltwater tank ,petco has all theses types and more
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LQRD5mHN0g&feature=youtube_gdata_player
on mine i am looking at professional setup it cost more but worth it and its a lot better it moves 900 gallons per hour compare to 360 gph on the electronics i might use the EZB, it is little over rated for this type of project ,but might use it because of the camera idea
on adding a camera the EZ camera not ready the best camera the LUX is not great for darkness even with IR lights ,whats needed is .001 lux or so b&w camera to see darkness,i did see a very good ,color and switches to low lux B&W camera that may be better
i guess you wont be able to finish you omnibot project
As always, do it for your enjoyment. No deadlines or pressure from us.
@robotmaker soon as this refugium has water flowing and filtering which will be tommorow I can get back to Jarvis. I must do the body work and send dude to paint.
10 gallon refugium with 3 bubble traps and large pump section
Custom overflow style drain to refugium good for 580 gallons per hour. The mag 7 pump we are estimating will exchange 390 gallons per hour which is nearly 8 times the volume of my tank. This is 4 times what I had before so im excited. All the plumbing and hoses and pumps are in the right side of the stand and left side will have electronics and will be the "dry" side.
i am lot like you ,i have about 4 robot projects going on,plus working for my job at home
i dont watch TV much or go out,plus have house repairs,but soon i will be retiring in a few months,1 trip left to go to china,and then next month done ,need more time for my ROBOT building
i have well over 20 robots to build,i just got in 5 more EZB
and my machine shop almost done,lathe machine next month and christmas my scroll saw comming it
great tool to but called BLADE RUNNER,NEED TO MAKE MY ROBOT FINGERS
so far plumbing looks good,i am looking to use EZB for my large fish tank,just not having anything on the outside of the cabinet or almost inside
except for special filter cansister and special filter buying new from petshop,i ordered my canister filter for $425 and rest after christmas
i spoke to some experts and the told i got the right equipment
i might use your injector system since i have many large syringes i got from work
and i have over 200 different types of relays i,need any can have some
the safterwater tank is not really my main project,first need to see up the camera's and lighting and incubator setup for my GECKO,getting ready to mate on FEB14 and have incubator made alreay,except for controlling the temperature.looking at all females (can select male or females or both by temperature)
This is the overflow drain down to the refugium and filters.
,no cheap wood i hate compressed board,i love only real wood in my house
i make some of my own furniture using only real wood
my bed furniture so so very well made had offers from other to make one for them,,next making my cabinet to match,its a very old style renniassance type to go with my large sword collection,my whole bedroom has so much in dragons swords and rennaissance stuff including very special dragon stain glass lamps
this aquarium table supports 900 lbs
aquarium table
your idea getting good so far JOSH ,gave a couple ideas for mine
wont use the pvc pipes idea,dont care to have it on the side of my table,wont look great in my house,but other ideas you going to use
with EZB going to use to talk to other robots using EZB to let me know if my tank has any problem,i dont know if DJ added this feature
100 gallon tanks going to let me see his setup
can very easy make one out of birch or walnut,but dont have the time,just want well made to hold more then 500 lbs and has to be look very nice in my house also
thats why i have very good stuff in my house,cost more but worth it,one side will fit my 3 canisters setup and other side my fish supplies,its going in my kitchen near my dining table facing a mirror
do have my geck's there i know they wont be happy about the moving ,female gecko loves to look at her self on it ,or maybe he thinks it a male on the full wall glass mirror ,40 gallon tank i have for her and soon her mate jake,2 months to go cant wait for mating dance he does for her (feb 14) hope to get a video camera to tape it
also shipping 2 day air is free for me
Filling the refugium for the first time
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Htylx0O3DtQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Water in the refugium with pump running , first try. The bubble traps in the refugium seem to be working properly.
2 tanks of waters i see
Looks really nice not to have a hang on the back filter.
You can see the refugium working right through the 2 percent tinted glass.
with all the weight it cant
must weigh a couple hundred pounds of weight with both tanks full of water
Now with 4 times the flow the sand and debris was being blown up from the bottom and making a mess. To remedy this I used silicon to attach plexi to the bottom and used a larger drill bit to waffle it up and now there's no bubbles and no sand being kicked up.
for the saltwater tank i only need a power head and canister type filer is the best,and dont need any other type of filter system aslong asi have living coral rocks and plants
it save much money,he is in charge of the saltwater fish tanks for all the stores and show the big setup in the back with many many tanks of saltwater fish living for years using only that system,so he told those other 2 filters is a overkill,onlly is to check the levels once a month for a ny problems with a very good water tester,for oxygen only need some air stones hook to a air pump as the bubbles rises it releases oxygen
my back wall of the fish tank has it the full length and the fish go crazy at it ,the love to swim into it alot and play with it
bubbles cant really kill ,it depends on the pressure of it if very tiny they dont hurt the fish or coral
you may have the wrong ones or too strong of a pump you need a regulator
and there is other ways to place a piece of pexiglass in front if too strong with tiny holes
they even sell dividers that has it done already
already got that info from my saltwater expert ,he says too many people buy extra filters that are not needed,his tanks going for many years without any problems with same setup
when you see it with your own eyes like i did ,its better then any internet advice
go to a pet shop ask if you can see thier setup.but not all saltwater pet shops are the same also
acrylic tanks is 17 times stronger then glass aquarium tanks and alot lighter. and there is others like 8 foot high i think 1000 gallons for $5000,wish i had the room for that,well someday soon
also will order next month a nice 3 ft wall tank from amazon it holds 6 gallons for my living room
i do have another port hole size wall tank 2.6 gallons in my bathroom for my gold fish
First i made and designed a dirty oil detector for a pump,so i think the design might work for a dirty water filter.
Second i saw a low cost fish feeder and looks easy to make it run from EZB and can easy add a circuit for when the feeder is empty too.
The tank looked like one big jello shot. All it was missing was the vodka! One of the gizmos at the EZ B disposal is a UV light. Fortunately once activated and two days later i is on the road do clearing up thanks to some electronic stimulation.
@24 hours with uv saturation
48 hours after UV saturation. This is running the max 9 watts I can energize the compressed gas tube to. (Similar to a halogen or xenon)
Because of the obvious dangers of direct UV Radon I had to shield this in a light tight canister. The tube is inside and water passes through a tube right in front of the uv bulb and back into the tank.
looks like you are making a bomb
i guess your is a strange setup to have water not clear
i think she paid only about $90 to $100 ,and had the right balance of fish with plants and coral
the expert at the saltwater fish store told me the same thing
all that hundereds of dollars is a waste of money others buy for marine sterilization setups
i am getting a PH sensor in soon to build my circuit,first making one for my fresh water tank using EZB
But there is good news retiring very early from my work,in march so much more time for robots
also hope to win the bid on a house too
PH not just for me ,but JOSH may need it ,plus a few other special sensors for freshwater and saltwater tank,one item well needed is when a filter goes bad,another is water level and many more
You need a right balance of fish,coral and plants and not too much of each
It look super super bad,never seen water look that bad
DOES look nice and clear like it should look
Can't wait to see the EZ-B integration into the mix.
looking at a idea,might be hard to use EZB to control all my tanks .mostly becacaue i have a lot of them and some are seperate in each room
And use a lot of EZB'S might be to hard because its hard to watch and control them
since the max is 5 EZB
will post photos of it
Woops after reading that agian I saw you mean 60 pounds not gallons. Lol mistakes make me laugh somtimes
they make the best wall mounted aquariums,they look like a flat screen tv,some bubble types
i am mounting it on 2x4 studs in the wall,it has strong brackets
it comes with everything needed pump ,,filters,lights ,syphon tube and more
and when i got it,found out they made a bamboo type one (dam)
my living is all in bamboo,black frame will still look good
they make black,silver or $100 more bamboo
FLOAT switches for great for water level,i get tired of adding water to my tank
one i found is about $5 from china,can easy make one using a magnet and a reedswitch and ball going up and down on a pole,but for $5 ,you cant match the cost to make and seal it
float switch
First step is ezb needs a powerful and reliable 12v and 5v power supply. A 1u 200w server psu is perfect!
The green wire in the atx and ground must be connected to trigger a psu on. I will use a rocker switch for this.
Round switch is psu power. This reboots ezb and powers down relays and leds. Main power to control. Two blue switches are main actinic lights and secondary lights. Green is the lower chaeto and refugium light. Red is uv sanitation switch.
-low profile blue rocker- main ezb and system power , only used to reboot
Position 1 blue toggle- actinic blue 55 watt bulbs
Position 2 blue toggle- purple dawn and twilight bulb
-green toggle- Refugium and Chaeto light source
Red toggle- Ultraviolet Sanitation light source
Its nice to be able to turn off the uv to administer medicine. The uv light and carbon reactor pull most everything out of the water including medicine. A perfect example is the Gold and Maroon clown had developed an infection during the algae outbreak. . The antibiotic will be destroyed by uv and then absorbed by the carbon reactor.
You can see where scales are distressed and shedding. This is being treated now and the data is being used to build a injection system.
There are high dollar systems out there that do these things on very large industrial sized systems.
Places like this piece together other products to get things to work but are way pricey and over complicated to perform their tasks. Draquarium.com
This is one of the cheapest and well know units but it must be manually programmed. Its basically a fancy alarm clock that also turns one main light on and off. Anything else is additional and this alone is 350 dollars.
http://www.marinedepot.com/Digital_Aquatics_ReefKeeper_Elite_(Plus)_Controller_Multi_Item_Monitors_Controllers_for_Saltwater_Aquariums-Digital_Aquatics-DA1115-FITEMOMI-vi.html
With ezb ,a few switching transistors, handful of leds , and relays for 110v equipment we can do everything they do and much much more.
Have you gotten any coworkers interested in the EZ-Robot robolution?
This is a fun project to follow.
Im thinking I will mount ezb close to the front where the open vents are to get a tad bit better reception. Also cooling will be installed. I will probably do one 120mm and a couple 40mm near ezb heatsinks.
Heres the blue lights lit and the one green switch. The blue is incredibly bright.
Im thinking I will line the relays up over on the right side. I csn easily get 5 mounted and maybe 7 relays if they are side by side with no space. Ofcourse if I really needed theres no harm in having another row. I believe 7 is plenty because the leds and other devices can be controlled by one of the switching trsnsistors.
I might do the same for my rackmount i have,it looks same as yours.
cases like make great place to place EZB and more
i used some PH probes and underwater temperature probes for my tanks and for my GECKO cage
LOOKING at networking all the cages and tanks together
I found A WIFI board that can take a network connector with just a few parts
I drilled out holes for machine screws in a straight line for relay mounts.
I put machine screws in the holes and superglue them in place. This way as I am working to wire each relay the machine screws will stay in place.
#10 washers and wingnuts tighten into place to secure the relays.
Now that we have a nice row of relays the next step is mounting EZ Board in the location best for reception and cooling. Ezb will not be powering anything directly only enough to operate switching transistors to trip relays. The only equipment it will power are the night time leds, twinkle leds and storm leds.
Second on using mosfets you dont need a kickback doide on the relay,few other item about using mosfets instead of transisors less heat ,easy to use then transistors,and lower current drive
MOSTLY nobody uses transistors any more
best way instead of relays if switching AC lines is SSR or reed switch,relays are bad because of RFI across the contacts,
Switching DC no RFI problems but higher current
SIMPLE SSR is a traic,cap and optocoupler with a led control ,also its well isolated
here is a simple SSR using a very common MOC3011 optocoupler and can drive straight from digital output
moc3011 circuits
I guess its too late for this project,so best idea is use a mosfet
Make shore you add a diode across the coil contacts or the transistor will be fried from inductive kickbacks IN4002 0R IN4007 TYPE
with my saltwater stuff,plus filters and cleaning stuff.
i look at making my setup real nice looking ,notthing on the outside ,like a piece of furniture
IF you work out the power dispatching ,where is very little or no heat is produce
look at TV'S they dont need it and other electronics pulling high current and wattage
way i work it out is get a good temperature probe and measure the temperature,most transistors will take high heat without thermal breakdown and mosfets are even more,most can easy handle 85 deg OR MORE ,,check the data sheet on them ,plus with a heatsink even more ,like almost 100deg without going bad (thermal runaway)
I have been trimming back wires and tommorow this will be even cleaner..
This is the switching transistor board. Tommorow I will pick up 1k resistors and diodes to complete the circuits. These are for triggering the relays.
Here is the circuit for triggering the coil on the relays
To divide up the 12v pos and ground and the 5v pos and ground im using a barrier strip. This makes changing and adding additional 12v or 5v connections easy.
After 5 days without the uv light you can see the red algae on the rocks. Im glad that the maroon clows treatment is over so I could turn things back on.
I cant wait for my first thunderstorm....
reason is that its a inductive type ,and when you apply power and then remove power the energy builds up and cause a spike called INDUCTIVE KICKBACK ,and then transistor get fried
What the diod does it clamps the voltage so no KICKBACK
CATHODE IS V+ on the coil and anode is the transistor emitter
Inductive is not a lamp,its resistance load
Inductive is motors,coils and solenoids and transfomers
couple of other points on using power transistors you should have a 100k to gound just incase for false triggering,what is does it keeps it low till you get a high signal to turn it on
microprocessor like used on EZB can false triggered
can set it up in a script code to stay low until it needed,but can still false trigger
also lower the base turn resistor to 470 ohms can help too (2 1 k in parallel) will work
FISH LOOKS REAL GOOD ALSO
I love to have a stingray like my friend thats a actor has in his 6 foot tank
I picked up colored set of tape to mark and identify each type of connection. I will probably use white for 110v AC , yellow for 12v , and red for 5v. It would have cost me 40 dollars or more to get multicolor crimp connects.
it shows for motors and induction loard like relays that the diode is across the motor or relay coil
also shows that is controlling light it doest need the diode
how to use a TIP120
DIODE IS FOR COIL SURGE KICKBACKS or way to call is is BACK EMF
can place accross he transistor but does do as good as across the coil
the diode works like a voltage clamp
little info about a darlington is is 2 npn transistors connected together to get double the power
PNP darlington is a little better but needs a inverter circuit using another transistors
You can see that in 2 of the 3 illustrations, there is a diode parallel to the device we are powering. Any time you are powering a device with a coil, such as a relay, solenoid, or motor, you need this guy, and don't leave home without it. What happens is when you stop powering the coil, a reverse voltage, up to several hundred volts, spikes back. This only lasts a few microseconds, but it is enough to kill our transistor. So this diode (only allows current to pass one way) is normally facing the wrong direction and does nothing. But when that voltage spikes comes flowing the opposite direction, the diode allows it to flow back to the coil and not the transistor. We will need a diode fast enough to react to the kickback, and strong enough to take the load. A rectifier diode like the 1N4001 or SB560 should do the job. If you are looking for extra protection you could use an optoisolator between the Arduino and the transistor. An optoisolator optically isolates both sides (high and low power) of the circuit so the high-voltage can not possibly can not come back to the microcontroller
also says about on using optoisolator witch is much better
This is the Smart Aquarium controller with 5 relays setup for all the lights right now. Next will be the wave generator which is already wired.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RreB8RKv3Oc&feature=youtube_gdata_player
wiring thats neat thats care of many problems ,makes it easyto fix,also high voltage wire (ac 120) should not be near low voltage ,ac produces some noise or hum
idea you should use is on the base wire going to each TIP120 you should place it away from the AC lines.like under the board or between the TIP120
Ok here is a short manual demonstration of the control unit using the manual override switches. Three sets of lights are controlled here. We will add an 18000k purple light for dawn and dusk and two wave generators next. Now I get to see if I can manage a good connection directly above on the second floor to the computer.
plus special circuits when board is tested there is no pwer and then switched on
JOSH you are near water you should have GFI built in to your box,,another item having that computer cabinet is next to water,if there is a leak or something else you will have a big big problem
On the wiring of AC YOU HAVE THE COLORS WRONG green is ground,dark is HOT (BLACK) and neutral is always WHITE
i got shock a few times ,mostly fixing TV'S LONG TIME AGO ,800 volts boost voltage,gives you a burn mark and build circuits up to 4000 volts to check a special sensor at work,that was a hard tester to make is safety for production and pass the ISO 9001 standards
Is it a good idea to twist cables? I was always taught it was bad practice and not to twist, not only because you can break the wires but either eddy currents or harmonics (or something along those lines, I forget what exactly)
AT work i made a machine to twist wires,and programable for production
another reason why network cable uses shield cable to block AC sinewave hum
AC is a pulsating sinewave voltage and thats where you get noise or (hum)
but ebay has them low cost $1.50 to $3 it what i paid for mine for a set of 2,i bought 5 sets from different bids
only need a 10k resistor and analog port ,they are waterproof,and will need more,since i have 6 tanks so far and 3 gecko cages that needs 2 of them ,plus incubator setup
arduino thermistor probe
10k resistor should have a pot ,makes it easy to calibrate it,like 9.1 k and 2 k pot ,this way you have a range of 9.1 k at the lowest and 11.1 k at the highest adjustment
IF you want it super stable,i have ideas for it,but for EZB its not needed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-ld3Ukcz5k&feature=youtube_gdata_player
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgyu7k97C4M&feature=youtube_gdata_player
After I did the firmware update I had a issue with my pc. After reboot it said "chassis intruded fatal error". The best I can understand is its a jumper that a switch can be attached to to indicate the case is open. I can pull the cmos battery and it starts fine with default cmos settings but once I power it down and back up it says chassis intruded fatal error and u get pretty upset. Any help , my board is M4A88T-I Deluxe Asus , its been working perfect for a while till I i put the motherboard in a case and now it did this.
[
It looks to be in the bottom right of the mobo, next to the clear RTC.
I had a problem with my dad's computer i set the time latter it changes ,battery was good,so i update the CMOS (BIOS) by flashing it and worked ok after that
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NN8rDjpq7Ts&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Here im explaining what has been setup and tested so far.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4l_cP2WTxyk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Demonstration with ezb running the three lights so far..
I trust you are clearing the RTC RAM correctly?
1. Turn off and unplug
2. Move jumper from 1 & 2 to 2 & 3
3. Wait 5 to 10 seconds
4. Move jumper back to 1 & 2
5. Plug in and turn on
I just read that they advise removal of the battery to clear the CMOS RTC RAM, which surprised me that they didn't fit a jumper for that but they must have their reasons I guess.
EZ Flash 2, which is put the bios on USB and boot (see Asus' guide, it's more comprehensive than mine)
or
Windows, ASUS Update (start, programs, asus, asus update, asus update)
Select from drop down list whichever you want (I had problems with some options with not being able to connect so try them all if you have problems).
Click next
Follow the on screen instructions
havent yet done it on ASUS board,
But i always check all my motherboards to see if my CMOS needs a new update
Update adds a lot of extra features to the motherboard
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Note : Also as an update to the 1st ezb not connecting that I swapped in the video, I used a small screw driver to peel off the tape. , removed tape and pressed Bluetooth module down into the socket and this fixed both ezb with Bluetooth red light not activating. The two affected units were solarbotics pcb early models so maybe they just used double sided tape that was too thick and it was not connecting well to the main board.
There is a global variable $time, I would look at using that and some IFs and ELSEIFs
I'd also use :labels for say
:0800
SET(D1, On)
SET(D3, On)
Return()
:1000
SET (D2, On)
Return()
etc.. and call those up with GOTOs, but it's not necessary.
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Note that where Cheato is on overnight and passes over from 24 to 0 the AND and OR are around the other way to Daylight and Antinic which don't.
This will just loop over and over again, you could add a SLEEP() in there if it uses too much resources on a constant loop, there is no need to check constantly, waiting for a minute or two, or even more wouldn't be the end of the world.
I've not tested it, I didn't even write it with ARC in front of me so check it. You can easily test it by replacing $hour with $test, running the script and then open the script console, enter
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See what happens, do the same again and change $test to 2, 3, 4 etc.
I've assumed Antinic is the daytime light (8am until 8pm) and Cheato is the night time light (8pm until 8am).
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right now it gets dark about 5pm to 6pm
Im thinking I will add this project to radioshackdiy.com , the great create
The second WaitUntilTime(20,00) (for turning D3 on) is a pointless line as it will already be 20:00 before it gets there (after turning off D2). You can remove it so that the Set(D3,On) is directly below Set(D2,Off) and the last WaitUntilTime(08,00) too, with Set(D3, Off) moved up to the top with the Set(D1,On). The script still works with both WaitForTimes though.
The major concern is if you don't start the script between 20:00 and 08:00 it will wait until 08:00 to pass line 1, so for the rest of the day it wont function.
My script will avoid that but will check the time every minute (or however often you decide by changing the Sleep(60000) at the end.
Or, you could use an IF statement at the start of the script, add labels in down the script and read the time when you start the script and goto the correct point...
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Me i use to like radio shack from long time ago,but the prices are so very high
So now i use digikey or mouser or newark to buy parts and some discounted surlpus store like electronic goldmine and others,prices so cheap with shipping and get my parts in fast about 3-4 days
my post i might added to much also,but just wanted others to know including JOSH how you can save money,radio shack is close by most ,but with tax and high prices its a lot ,plus driving
i do like the radio shack small breadboard or protoboards
that was the setup i had plan for my lights for my tank
IF asked my sister who has a saltwater tank for years if you want me to make one for her,she said no
wants just like they have in fish stores
Im looking at having two higher power wave makers , maybe 700 gpg and a smaller 400 gph on continously. I set up one of the ports to alternate the larger pumps side to side. Ill post the options ive seen so far.
So i bought a water tank sensor for 2 reasons one is that you do need to add water now and then,since water does evaporates over time ,and second if the water goes low too fast it meens there is a leak,it can be set up in EZB easy and on mine looking to add a water pump with a small container to fill it up by EZB
second i bought 6 auto fish feeders ,one for each of my tanks so far and using 6 EZB one for each tank ,using network RJ45
Since the tanks in different rooms and every room alread as a network setup and want a very stable connection,WIFI not really stable as bluetooth,only straight wire
I lucked out and a kind individual sold me two new ones for 20 dollars each which is less than half regular price even on ebay. They will be here mid next week.
WONT that hurt the coral and plants ,like you said awhile back on the bubble maker i suggested
Are you worried the fish will be sucked into or up to it?
Fish wont get sucked into it ,because it pushers water out.
there is a way to protect it,screen in front of it may not work to well,but current sense on power wire or power monitor,but if the motor sticks and then starts again wont help much.
So best fix is fan blade monitor,using IR or magnetic switch ,like magnet on the blade with hall effect or reed switch,,like used in alarms ,like a magnetic encoder,both easy to make.
Also JOSH you said the natural rivers and oceans have water flowing and if not too strong it wont hurt the plants or coral,that not really correct.
Reason is the plants and coral are way at the bottom and the flowing stream is near the top of the water.
If making it too small of screen holes it will cut down on water current flowing ,if too big of holes small fish will get in to it.
Also that type doesnt suck water it pushes water,and intake on it does have a plastic screen if you look at the design.
on the model JOSH got amazon has it for $18.18 including shipping
The EZ board for this one is on the way so im going to start its setup , im considering making a custom setup for this one too but with many surprises involved
my brother about 6 months ago,went in to his horse stable room to clear it out for horses he was getting and found the last owner had 9 10 gallons in there some with lights ,he gave them all to me ,pretty cool HUH
:Start
WaitUntilTime(06:00)Set(D4,on)
WaitUntilTime(08:00)Set(D1,on)
WaitUntilTime(08:01)Set(D4,off)
WaitUntilTime(10:00)Set(D2,on)
WaitUntilTime(18:00)Set(D2,off)
WaitUntilTime(20:00)Set(D1,off)
WaitUntilTime(20:00)Set(D4,on)
WaitUntilTime(22:00)Set(D4,off)
WaitUntilTime(22:01)Set(D3,on)
WaitUntilTime(05:59)Set(D3,off)
Goto(Start)
JOSH you going to make a temperature monitor and PH monitor for your tanks
And what about a auto fish feeder
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Although I would advise using the If ElseIf loop over WaitUntilTime or at the very least an If ElseIf before :begin to point ARC to the right place in the script to start just in case you need to reboot outside of the 20:00 to 08:00 window for any reason therefore avoiding having to wait until 8am of the following day for the script to move past line 2.
i just uploaded it to EZ-Cloud as lightscript under incomplete robots at the bottom of page ,try it, it works
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It was just before 8am here so I started it and watched it run then stop.
If the script is working and you aren't too fussed by how it's working then leave it and iron out any bugs later on if you want to. I'm just all for nice neat optimised code labelled up, commented etc. (it really helps when future modifications are required).
i bought already most of my sensors i need ,plus HUMIDITY sensors for my gecko tanks
Need to buy a PH monitor tester to calibrate my PH sensor about $20 on ebay
i do have part # and where i got each sensor including water level sensor if you need them to help you out in your project
water level switch
waterproof temperature sensor
humidity and temperature sensor
ph electrode sensor for fish tanks
all other sensors easy to interface
But second idea is to buy a digital PH monitor and may be tap in the circuit with 0-5 volts out for ADC on EZB i will need to buy t of them ,its about $30,since might need for for calibration
PH monitor for fish tanks
all ther sensors under $4 except for humidity sensor and board
But i think on the humidity output you may be able to use a digital port .like on sonar when is reads a frequency (pwm output) on the echo pin
I have made a few frequency circiuts .one using a 55 timer and others using a frequency to voltage chip
ph sensor board
also with this board can measure oxidation or ORP levels it has a analog output
I started to test out a zero water filter. The purpose is to remove chlorine , heavy metals and floride from water added to the tank. The eventual idea is to have a primo style water dispenser next to the fish tank. As ezb reads the water level has dropped it would simply pull prefiltered water from the dispenser into the tank by a small pump. It could take a couple months to evaporare enough water from the dispenser that I would need to fill it. At that point all I would need to do is swap out the water container for a full one. Super simple!
072 ppm tap water before filtration
000 ppm heavy metal and chlorine content after zero water filtration.
Ok so now you see the current placement , I understand that mounting them on the ends may make them more effective but I don't want the flow so strong it keeps sand kicked up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH49rjTS420&feature=youtube_gdata_player
I am looking to move to a bigger house,but so far house i want near a lake and large land they want about $450k and max i want to pay is $300k
so need to keep looking
CHECK this out JOSH ,cant wait for the show on animal planet
Trying to make it like chuck norris tank thats more then 6 feet long maybe 500 gallons or more.
He has a house in west palm beach near my brother and very good friends with him .
SUPER NICE GUY CHUCK is.only he loves to drink a lot like my big brother.
I have that one only not glass ,ACYRLIC is the best to get,more clearer and stronger then glass ,plus lighter
Can do that,need try college and be engineer or also like me design a circuit and sell it for very big money to a company.
75 gallon acrylic aquarium tank
Video demonstration of predatory live feed fish trained to eat flake as a primary diet.
Thanks for sharing.
Mel
http://www.instructables.com/contest/ageofaquariums/