3dfixer
USA
Asked
— Edited
I have purchased 2 ezb’s and was wondering two things. Where Can I mount them. And how do I connect both at once so the ARCs can move in synchronization.
Hi and Welcome aboard! You have some tutorials to do here and these solutions will soon become self evident but let's get started for now!
You can mount them wherever is convenient. Never mind my messy wiring as I am in the middle of a reconfig but here is mine.
Both EZ's will connect to your home network. You can then access them both in the connect panel. See the top two IP's below.
For now, connect one. Play with it and then integrate the second. I ran my bot for months before I got a second EZB
Perry
Yes welcome to EZB's forum. I too mount mind where Perry_s mounts his EZB's. I however, mounted it without the base so it would have more room when the PC table is mounted on the back cover. The only thing with my setup is it voids the warranty because of how I soldered the power wires. I used hot glue to mount my EZB's.
Hi here is my solution. Simple assembly and disassembly EZBv4.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2498185
Hi @Drupp, Thanks for the mount. It makes things quick and easy for my new project. I will incorporate an audio jack support on the outside for my remote speaker.
Here is the mount I designed for mine.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2501214
hello Everyone my name is Paul From Columbus Ga. First off. I like to say how Happy and excited i am about making the Inmoov this will be the body of our AI Virtual Assistant Denise that's on our computer. I'm wanting to give her a body and hopefully one day get her to walk, but baby steps got to start at building and all first. Its only going to cost us 848.48 dollars for all the hardware and servos needed I dont think thats bad at all .Were going with The EZ Robot builder boards cameras for eyes it can do more and is more cost effective for us. My question is how much or about how many rolls are need to do the entire build? What kind of material ? and what Size. I look forward to hearing from you guys and working along side you all and for any help I might need along the way when building this awesome humanoid. I'm hoping to make her like Sofia the ai humanoid is. yours truly Paul .
Hello Paul , Welcome! I have used about 12 rolls of ABS so far. There is some good printing time ahead of you!
Hi, here is my list of used filament, time and price. I hope it will help. Good luck Drupp Inmoov.zip
Very nice and affordable 3d printer about to be ordered. For the ABS Filament is it 1.75 or 3.00 which one is recommended I'min the us not sure if theres a difference or not thanks Paul
I use a 1.75 mm filament. I have no experience with 3mm filament. I think the result will be the same. What's important is what type of 3D printer you use. Drupp
Also I noticed that some of you are using a tablet in the back. I know Ez Robot has and App and I'm guessing that is used for all the robots files and so he and or she can operate without having to be attached to a Desktop computer or laptop?
I have no experience with it. It would be good if someone described a solution here. The variation is more and it would be interesting to do some sort of common solution. Drupp
Hi @RedDragonManor
Take a look at the information posted in the 3D printing section. A lot of good info and advice about printing is there.
Ron
Ok thanks and its a flsun I3 3d Printer Auto-level Heated Bed 300300420 mm
Hello Again everyone. Got a couple of quick questions for our inmoov. For Hardware connections. First off were two weeks away from ordering our 3D Printer the seller is just waiting for our payment. So I'm trying to go ahead and get and idea for everything thing else. I already know how many and what servos I need already made a list for that. Were going to use two ezb4's with one camera. One is for one side of the robot and the other is for the other side. I already know how to connect them and get them hooked up. I understand that part of things. My questions are for the tablet, the big battery pack and the USB power Strip. Were can I buy and or find the Big black battery pack I see on some of you all's inmoovs and what do I hook it up to and how. for the Tablet I know it will hook up to the USB Power Strip and where does the USB Power strip hook up to for power. I know . I know the robot will have to plug into the wall at some point for charging . I'm just trying to make her as autonomous and mobile as I can. Without having to be wired to a desktop or laptop to run and function. The Hardware I had questions about. I'm assuming that's all I need to get everything going. Any help and pictures would be graciously appreciated Thanks yous truly Paul
Don’t use an ezb for each side. The Auto Position control is what defines animation actions. You can only control one ezb per Auto Position control due to the way the servo control timing works. Split an ezb for head and fingers and another for arms etc
@RedDragonManor, Using 2 EZB's will work but I would suggest that you put the head, neck and arms on one EZB and the remainder on another.This will make creating gestures much easier. What ever computer you use, one on the back or on a desk, it communicates with the EZB's over WiFi so I don't know why you are considering a USB power strip. There's no need for it. If you make a mobile base for your InMoov you can control it with ARC commands and this could also carry the batteries.
Ok It all making sense nowand hooking up the servos to the ezb's also makes better sense. As far as the USB Power Strip is concerned. I know everyone does them different and some setups are kinda of the same, but with that being said. I was just going on pictures nothing that really explained what all hooked up to it and what all it was really used for, but if theres no need for it . Than that's even better. As far as the mobile base I don't even know where to start and what it make it with. I do know I want it to be able to hold the whole robot for I will have her legs attached for her to to be standing . The legs are for now to just be there for looks and to have a complete robot. I seen where Inmoov creator Gail is working on and actuator that's cheap but bigger than a servo to be able to use the legs and to support the top half and bottom half of the robot to be able to start making him walk. With that being said I'm open to any suggestions on how and what to make the mobile base out of. So she can maneuver around the house
What’s the usb hub for?
I dont knows thats why I was asking but since its not needed I guess it doesnt matter lol
@RedDragonManor
The battery is just an ubiquitous 12amp 6V SLA battery... I got mine from ebay...I put one ARC in the head and 1 lotiny in each hand for the forearm and hands. Much cleaner wiring
Oh smart using IoTiny’s holy! I didn’t know that, really smart idea
Hello @Holy 1 From what you said and looking over everything else. You have 1 LOtiny in the left arm in the bicep wrist and fingers are connect to it and the same for the right and the one in the head connects to the head aka neck, eyes, mouth both upper and under shoulders . The torso and the waist correct? . Love to hear form you and awesome videos by the way cant wait to get started on mine. yours truly Paul
Hi @RedDragonManor and welcome.
I use one EZB to control all the head and torso function and a second one for the hands and neopixel rings.Makes for an easy and manageable configuration. I have one AutoPosition control for each EZB. Here are what the windows look like.
Hi Thank you Perry_S for your Inmoov Auto Position diagrams this was very helpful as I am just now learing to controll my ezb Inmoov. I also put an IoTiny in the head the audio goes from the convenient speaker pins on the ioTiny to a larger speaker in the ear, more then loud enough .
Thank @ Perry_S if you wouldn't mind sharing could you please email me a zip file of your configuration with the picture. I would love to use this for mine to help me get started and to give me something to go by reddragonmanor@gmail.com thanks yours truly Paul
You can download my project from the app store here. It is public.
I have InMoov's Parloma Neck (Drupp), Jaw, Eyes and all sensors on EZB 1, Arms, Shoulders, Torso on EZB 0, and EZB 2 reserved for legs which I'll publish once my InMoov is ambulating. (Just now adding 20:1 Planetary Gear system for hip and ankle joints to accommodate full weight shifting to single limb support: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2782154)
In all I've spent around $3,000 USD on this project over a year and a half. I started in MyRobotLab and finally came to my senses... so did an overhaul and removed Arduino Mega's, USB strip, audio amplifier, USB M9 Power Pack - have broken parts, burned servos (I expect all of us have...), you learn as you go!
I bought the ARC and still don’t know how to make all the servos reach and any servo mods I need to do for positioning or anything for th ARCs
@3dfixer...
There are lot's of resources on the inMoov web site and inmoov forums to help you as well... If you are new to electronics, servos and servo hacking then unfortunately you will be faced with a somewhat steep learning curve... Check out the inMoov building tutorials on the inMoov web site... It will show you how to hack the appropriate servosWhat I meant was the servo cable (the three cable input for he servo) how should I go by extending them because I have already extended the potentiometers.
@3dfixer Use these Servo cable extender
I repurposed Gael's breakout boards by patching in my own power cables (lower right), used ribbon cable, etc to run the signal wires back to EZB (lower left), and used Amazon extension cables (top) to get to the servos from there: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MIQRN2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3d Printer Finally got ordered Tues. Just waiting for it to get here. So we can start putting it together and start printing. My question is. for the screws. For putting the parts together. the ones that aren't 3d printed. I already it s going to be a lot, but what kind of screws and what size or sizes . Unless I'm missing something. I didn't see anything in the tutorials that show that part for the screws. Thanks in advanced Paul
That is all called out on the inmoov website
http://inmoov.fr/default-hardware-map/
Hello everyone I'm getting ready to do my first print. I was just wondering if anyone has a certain heating preference for the heating temp for the best print if there is one. I'm using PLA 1.75 filament.
HotEnd 225C Bed 70C All Layers
I'm using Repetier-Host where do I go to select all layers
Just set those temps and if your printer wants to alter them for the first layer, no problem.
A few prints will help you dial in the best settings. I use Hatchbox PLA and run at 210C / 65C You can always check the website of your filament manufacturer, The will list the best specs for their particular PLA. Ultimately, you will have to dial it in to best fit your printer/conditions.
Not bad for a first print but how do I correct this
and what should the fill density be
What should the fill density be What should the the fill pattern be and what should the top\bottom fill pattern be
I use 20% density for parts that don't need strenght and 40% for those that do. Hexangonal fill - looks like honeycomb. I'm using 5 perimeters top, bottom and sides for parts that need strength, and three for those that don't. I also moved away from PLA and use Hatchbox ABS. Your print looks like the hot end is running a little hot so you could dial that back and see. #Perry_S gave the best advice. It's going to be unique to your printer within the range, and there can be variations with the size or delicacy of the parts...
This is a picture of a part I am making for my inmoov, it is the ball joint from Bob Houston's Articulating Stomach for InMoov. The part has not been cleaned up yet and usually it does not need sanding, it was made on a cheap $250.00 printer using PETG by MG Chemicals, on a glass build bed with aussie hairspray, bed temp 80 and ejector temp 230. 2 or 3 perimeters top and sides 20 infill on most large parts 50 on parts for strength. PETG has no smell, can be put into boiling water to join the dovetail joints they need no sanding and join perfectly with taps from a hammer. PETG parts are joined together using weldon 3 or 4 solvent just like ABS with acetone. the parts are fused not glued. make sure you use the retract setting on printer and you will have zero stringing. PETG is much stronger then ABS and I have no wasted parts that break.
Thanks for the advice we have a 300 × 300 d 420 I3 Flusun printer. It was a DIY only cost us 242.00. My only questioni Now is . I seen it somewhere but cant remember where how do u know what infills to use on what parts. I seen it somewhere just cant find it now. I just want to make sure i have the right infill on the right parts
I use Repetier Host V2.0.5 and the slicer Cura Engine latest version I leave the infil pattern to automatic, solid top and solid bottom 15% infil overlap shell thickness if you are using PETG is 2 and top and Bottom 2 . thicker is not necessary. parts like the gears and screws make the sides thicker maybe 4 with 50% infil
@ nallycat. Where do get your "weldon 3 or 4 solvent "? I'm in Canada too.
Thanks.
@3dPrinterGuy. I use Weldon 3 and I get from PlasticWorld.ca around 15.00 a pint, but it goes a long way I also get the applicarion bottles with needle points. you use it the same as acetone on ABS. it fuses the plastic,. stronger then glue
Perfect, thanks Nallycat!
Good evening all. I just have a couple of Really quick quick questions. Since i havent really been able to Start printing yet. I know everyone doesnt have the same Printers but asumming the settings See the same or at least similar. But i was wondering what should i have my Z settings at to be at the right height from the bed for printing. We have a 300x300x420 I3 Flusun 3D Printer. Also i Seen it on here but Cant find it where someone had built a Female Version of the inmoov ans since Wege making a Female Version to was wondering if we could get a Copy of the Female Parts Please and Thank u ist för our Home Automation Project Yours truly Paul
The distance from the print bed to the print nozzel is the thickness of a sheet of writing paper, but you have to make test runs as this thickness has more to do with the parts sticking to the print bed. does your printer have an auto leveling device or not? if not then read the instructions that come with the printer, this will give you a starting point for Z settings. I use a glass plate on the print bed and use hairspray on the glass. the printed parts easily remove after the glass cools. to test your part adhesion and to see if the print bed is level. print a brim on your part if the brim is thin in one area then adjust the print bed springs down to make that area print thicker. as for making a female version of Inmoov ,my advice to you is go to the Inmoov site and print inmoov as is, it is a complex build, and you should stick to the design until you gain experiance.
It came with an Auto Level Sensor but ir didnt Seem to Let it go down Far enough so we Took it Off and put the z Sensor Switch back in Place to do it Manually
The Z sensor switch is for homing the Z axis you use it with the auto level sensor, which you should reinstall, you auto level the bed after which you home the machine and put a piece of writing paper between the nozzel and the print bed, if there is a large gap then loosen the screw on the Z axis micro switch and move it up a very small amount. then home the machine again and test with a piece of writing paper again until you feel drag on the paper when you put it between the print nozzel and the print bed.
Good evening to all. I just wanted to say thanks to everyones help thus far. I'm excited and happy to announce. Since late Sunday morning around 8 am yes we were both all night and finally was able to get all the settings and the height just right and was able to do our real first print and we even reprintd that screw bolt and it turned out really nice. I wanted to share with you a side project of mine. I have always wanted to own my own on audio animatronic band since I and we can't afford our own. I decided to make my very own. With two singing cats and a dog. Here is the front, lower jaw and nose of one of the cats. The back is currently printing. Tell me what u guys think Paul
Hello all its been awhile on here. My husband and I were wondering if someone who has built a female version of inmoov and wouldn't mind sharing the files with us. I seen a pic awhile back where someone had, thanks in advanced
I believe that design was done by Anthony Ameralis. Due to some unfortunate circumstances Anthony ended up pulling all his content from everywhere he ever posted. There may still be some files that people here hung onto but other than talking to him directly (lives in New Jersey I believe) it may be difficult to get ahold of those files.
If I could get just the files for the arms and shoulders. We we have this old Halloween animatronic, called the beheaded bride. That we done stripped down her head is if not exactly the same size is about the same size head as the original inmoov file and we already have the top back half and top half of the torso with the plastic breast plate. If we can just get a copy of the female version of the shoulders and arms we can work around the rest
There are still the Thingiverse files, if those are helpful to you: https://www.thingiverse.com/xlrobots/designs
If your referring to the xl remale robot the files are for the head. We might just have to stick with the original version for now. Were getting ready to start printing here in just a moment got to start somewhere
Good find @JustinRatliff I had no idea those files were still up.
@RedDragonManor sorry those weren't the files you were looking for, I'm likely mistaken, there must be another female inMoov style project out there that I'm not familiar with.
All I'm looking for is a female head but have not been able to find one, and I have looked and looked. If anyone ever runs into one please post.