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Asked — Edited

Inmoov With Ezb

I have purchased 2 ezb’s and was wondering two things. Where Can I mount them. And how do I connect both at once so the EZ-Builders can move in synchronization.

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I use 20% density for parts that don't need strenght and 40% for those that do.
Hexangonal fill - looks like honeycomb.
I'm using 5 perimeters top, bottom and sides for parts that need strength, and three for those that don't. I also moved away from PLA and use Hatchbox ABS.
Your print looks like the hot end is running a little hot so you could dial that back and see. #Perry_S gave the best advice. It's going to be unique to your printer within the range, and there can be variations with the size or delicacy of the parts...
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This is a picture of a part I am making for my inmoov, it is the ball joint from Bob Houston's Articulating Stomach for InMoov. The part has not been cleaned up yet and usually it does not need sanding, it was made on a cheap $250.00 printer using PETG by MG Chemicals, on a glass build bed with aussie hairspray, bed temp 80 and ejector temp 230. 2 or 3 perimeters top and sides 20 infill on most large parts 50 on parts for strength. PETG has no smell, can be put into boiling water to join the dovetail joints they need no sanding and join perfectly with taps from a hammer. PETG parts are joined together using weldon 3 or 4 solvent just like ABS with acetone. the parts are fused not glued. make sure you use the retract setting on printer and you will have zero stringing. PETG is much stronger then ABS and I have no wasted parts that break.
Thanks for the advice we have a 300 × 300 d 420 I3 Flusun printer. It was a DIY only cost us 242.00. My only questioni Now is . I seen it somewhere but cant remember where how do u know what infills to use on what parts. I seen it somewhere just cant find it now. I just want to make sure i have the right infill on the right parts
I use Repetier Host V2.0.5 and the slicer Cura Engine latest version I leave the infil pattern to automatic, solid top and solid bottom 15% infil overlap shell thickness if you are using PETG is 2 and top and Bottom 2 . thicker is not necessary. parts like the gears and screws make the sides thicker maybe 4 with 50% infil
@ nallycat. Where do get your "weldon 3 or 4 solvent "? I'm in Canada too.

@3dPrinterGuy. I use Weldon 3 and I get from PlasticWorld.ca around 15.00 a pint, but it goes a long way I also get the applicarion bottles with needle points. you use it the same as acetone on ABS. it fuses the plastic,. stronger then glue
Perfect, thanks Nallycat!
Good evening all. I just have a couple of Really quick quick questions. Since i havent really been able to Start printing yet. I know everyone doesnt have the same Printers but asumming the settings See the same or at least similar. But i was wondering what should i have my Z settings at to be at the right height from the bed for printing. We have a 300x300x420 I3 Flusun 3D Printer. Also i Seen it on here but Cant find it where someone had built a Female Version of the inmoov ans since Wege making a Female Version to was wondering if we could get a Copy of the Female Parts Please and Thank u ist för our Home Automation Project Yours truly Paul
The distance from the print bed to the print nozzel is the thickness of a sheet of writing paper, but you have to make test runs as this thickness has more to do with the parts sticking to the print bed. does your printer have an auto leveling device or not? if not then read the instructions that come with the printer, this will give you a starting point for Z settings. I use a glass plate on the print bed and use hairspray on the glass. the printed parts easily remove after the glass cools. to test your part adhesion and to see if the print bed is level. print a brim on your part if the brim is thin in one area then adjust the print bed springs down to make that area print thicker. as for making a female version of Inmoov ,my advice to you is go to the Inmoov site and print inmoov as is, it is a complex build, and you should stick to the design until you gain experiance.:D
It came with an Auto Level Sensor but ir didnt Seem to Let it go down Far enough so we Took it Off and put the z Sensor Switch back in Place to do it Manually
The Z sensor switch is for homing the Z axis you use it with the auto level sensor, which you should reinstall, you auto level the bed after which you home the machine and put a piece of writing paper between the nozzel and the print bed, if there is a large gap then loosen the screw on the Z axis micro switch and move it up a very small amount. then home the machine again and test with a piece of writing paper again until you feel drag on the paper when you put it between the print nozzel and the print bed.
Good evening to all. I just wanted to say thanks to everyones help thus far. I'm excited and happy to announce. Since late Sunday morning around 8 am yes we were both all night and finally was able to get all the settings and the height just right and was able to do our real first print and we even reprintd that screw bolt and it turned out really nice. I wanted to share with you a side project of mine. I have always wanted to own my own on audio animatronic band since I and we can't afford our own. I decided to make my very own. With two singing cats and a dog. Here is the front, lower jaw and nose of one of the cats. The back is currently printing. Tell me what u guys think Paul
Hello  all its been awhile on here. My husband and I were wondering if someone who  has built a female version of inmoov and wouldn't mind sharing the files with us. I seen  a pic awhile back where someone had, thanks in  advanced
I believe that design was done by Anthony Ameralis. Due to some unfortunate circumstances Anthony ended up pulling all his content from everywhere he ever posted. There may still be some files that people here hung onto but other than talking to him directly (lives in New Jersey I believe) it may be difficult to get ahold of those files.
If I could get just the files for the arms and shoulders. We we have this old Halloween animatronic, called the beheaded bride. That we done stripped down her head is if not exactly the same size is about the same size head as the original inmoov file and we already have the top back half and top half of the torso with the plastic breast plate. If we can just get a copy of the female version of the shoulders and arms we can work around the rest
If your referring to the xl remale robot the files are for the head. We might just have to stick with the original version for now. Were getting ready to start printing here in just a moment got to start somewhere
#63   — Edited
Good find @JustinRatliff I had no idea those files were still up.

@RedDragonManor sorry those weren't the files you were looking for, I'm likely mistaken, there must be another female inMoov style project out there that I'm not familiar with.
All I'm looking for is a female head but have not been able to find one, and I have looked and looked.
If anyone ever runs into one please post.