Richard R, I really like the idea of using the SSC. I'm only just finishing printing the right hand and arm so I still have to buy servos and now the SSC instead of the arduino. I've been keeping up with your post so I had the same delimna you did with what printer to buy. I went with the davinci 1 and so far so good. It was mostly a price driven decision. I bought it for $400(US) without warranty. We'll see. There are two drawbacks, one is using the company software instead of open source software like pronterface or repetier. The funny part is I don't know anything about 3d printing so their software works great for me. The other problem is you have to use the company filament cartridges which are expensive.
Anyway, I look forward to watching your progress and sharing ideas with you and the others who are building Inmoov. Also hat's off to Gael for sharing such an incredible build!
I ended up with 2 printers... The UP! Plus 2 and more recently the Flashforge Creator Pro.... I am happy (albeit much poorer LOL) with them both... The up uses proprietary software which is very good and easy to use, but lacks features... For the Flashforge I use Simplify3d which is stellar... Loaded with features yet easy to use... Drawback is it cost $140 US....
I know Gael states that you can print the inMoov with a printer that has a build envelop of 12cm x 12cm x 12cm.... However, I have run into a few parts that barely fit my UP! (which has a larger build envelop then 12cm x 12cm x 12cm)... What is your print build area on your Davinci? Great price for it by the way....
Advertised at 20X20X20. I think it's meant as an introductory printer, but heh, I'm new. What parts are the largest on your build so far? I couldn't get the forearm parts to print on our makerspace printer because they where too large but the davinci didn't have a problem. On the other hand, the forearm parts took 5-6 hours each to print.
Wow... 20 x 20 x 20.... Then you're should be good for all the inMoov parts... The chest pieces, some in the torso, head and bicep are the largest... There will be parts that may take almost 8hours to print (depending on your layer resolution and finish quality you've set).... I have been printing my inMoov at 200 microns (.2mm) and with a fine finish... Seems to look pretty decent.... Are you printing with PLA or ABS? I am using abs....
I'm using ABS. I don't know if Davinci will print PLA. I'm using .3mm and medium quality, could probably look better, but I'm ecstatic to get anything! Do you put a coat of acetone on the parts after printing. I read a piece that said it makes them stronger and look better. Gael said he coats the inside of the piece only, he doesn't like the way it looks.
A little tip... print small parts like gears or parts that need a precise fit with a higher resolution and more of a solid infill (gears)... This is especially important for parts that will have a good load put on them....
You're also going to discover some parts will need a bit of sanding to fit well...
@Checksumff, Good idea to make a thread for InMoov and EZ-Robot, why didn't I think of this! InMoov a great project. I know of 5 people in this community running or planning to run their InMoov with Ez-Robot. I will be nice to keep in touch here.
"You're also going to discover some parts will need a bit of sanding to fit well..."
I hear that. I made the forearm parts with raft. That creates a lot of sanding in itself.
I'll keep in mind what you're saying about gearing and print quality. Honestly, using the club printer which is old and worn out, I just assumed that lot's of sanding, gluing and fitting was part of the deal. Maybe not...
Did you mount the arm and play with it alone before starting on the rest of the build, or are you going to build the entire bot and then start programing?
I would really like to duplicate what Gael did with the leap motion controller and the arm. DJ started with Leap motion but I think he said he did not like the sdk. I'm going to try just because it makes such a cool demo.
Sorry to repeat, but I'm really excited about the SSC instead of the arduino!
Sorry, did you have a specific question about the SSC-32?.... I was going to use 2 ezbs, but decided (since I had one) to use an SSC for my inmoov... I now have 12 more ports on the ezb free for other sensors (which I have yet to add still)... I assembled as I went, but actually strung my right hand after building the complete right arm... I was having a little trouble getting the fishing line and fingers to work right... Got that sorted out now... Modifying the 805bb servos for the external pot mod was a little challenging at first, but that too eventually worked out....
I wrote test scripts to test basic movements as I assemble each part... I am currently building the lower stomach (with the two 805bbs for rocking side to side movement) ... When I finish that I can begin more advanced programing...
Eventually I'll post a video of my finished inMoov.... I am a little hesitant as it would be very hard to match Bob Houston's work....
I'd like to joint this tread because I start my own Inmoov project to.
Since the last 3 weeks I have receive my Flashforge Dreamer 3 d printer and have spend both PLA and ABS filament (1 kilo each) printing one arm and part of chest.
I am new in 3d printing and very satisfy with the printing profile given by Flashforge
I am using acetone on the bed so the print stick very well on it.
and acetone works very well to glue parts together.
Sugestion: try to joint parts together with 123 design (depending of the bed size) when you print torso part.
they are design to go press fit and they need sanding before you fit them together
The hand in now controlled by EZ-Robot servos and EZB V4 I did hijack from my roli I have receive at same time of my printer.
I have modify and adapt some horn from Thingivers to fit on the servos.
I also intend to use HDMI connector to reduce the amount of wires (6 servos only for the hand) so there will be only one cable going to the chest
when your hand is ready to operate try the small script named Inmoov-right hand-1 on the cloud, Auto Position control is the tool you need to develop gesture.
see some pic showing where i am with this project.
i am presently waiting for the filament delivery to continue with it.
I am trying to figure out how to install this Short range IR sensor in inMoov's wrist so he will be able to sense whether an object is in his hand or not... It would be nice to be able to hand him something and have his hand close automatically without having to tell him to...
No specific question with the SSC-32, not that far yet. First I have to assemble the forearm/hand. Then a break to play with the leap motion sdk and hand. I'm not very optimistic just based on what DJ said about it. So, you'll be done 15 times over before I get the hand done. BTW, will you guys please take back this cold front, our blood doesn't have any antifreeze down here! (Colorado)
@Aerius... Nice.... Are you printing abs directly on your build plate without kapton tape? Just with acetone?
I also adapted my servo horns in the forearm to work similar to guitar tuning pegs... That way it is simple to loosen or tighten the fishing line as required...
@Checksumff LOL... Not so bad here in southern Ontario where I live... Actually Buffalo New York usually gets worse winter weather than we do in Ontario...
If you need help with the ssc-32 , I can set you up with a sample ARC script I wrote...
since the fingers do not reach the lower part of the hand's palm, you could experiment to stick the sensor in that area and run the cables in the slot going to the wrist.
Richard,
I don't have any ideas on using the I/R detector. Not sure how that would look. You see something there but you don't know if you've captured it.
I did not like the sensors on the Inmoov sight but don't have a better idea.
It would be interesting if they had cheap load cells/strain gauges that could tie inline with the fish string.
That way, if you where tightening grip and load increased before you got to the end of servo travel you would know you have something. Unfortuneately you would need a cell for each finger and it would probably get expensive even if they had cells that small.
I think I will purchase at least one if not 2 ultimaker 2's in March. I had thought about going with either of the two flash forges and starting mine up again this month, but decided to wait and get a couple of the ultimaker 2's. That will give you guys some time to figure out more, and give me more people to go to when I start my build of an Inmoov. I am thinking about a DIY Segway for mobility right now. It seems the best way to allow him to move around and all. Anyway, thanks for the thread. I will be watching closely.
@d.cochran... Segway base sounds awesome... Mine is quite a bit less sophisticated than yours... Couple of robotic lawnmower drive motors and wheels, swivel castor rear wheel and some Vex aluminum structure for a frame(still needs to be a little bit higher, though)....
Sorry can't get the picture rotated....
Mobility for InMoov, Ya, that's where we need to go!
@Richard R, did you build that wheeled base for InMoov? I'd like to work towards something like that too
Richard R,
Do you think those TowerPro MG946's would be suitable for the Inmoov hand and wrist? it would be a great way not to break my meager piggy bank.
I've used both the TowerPro MG995 and the Hi-Tech HS-311 without any problems. I think that the Ez-Robot Heavy duty servo would also be a good one to use.
Thanks Bhouston,
I'm trying to make a display of the hand for our makerspace. I really only need it to actuate not pick up anything. Long story short, cheap is good!
@bob... that's funny... you use a relatively low power servo for your inMoov's wrist and I was using a much stronger MG946 and mine ends up burning out... LOL... To be honest, I think some plastic debris from the forearm dropped into the wrist gears and possibly jammed it which caused the servo to burn out....
bhouston,
Out of curiosity, when you printed your large forearm parts, did you use raft. As I trimmed mine I didn't do such a good job. The join line is very visible. I feel like if I hadn't used raft I would have had a much cleaner looking connection. Any tips on making the join lines less visible? Acetone?
@hecksumff... My rafts tend to come off pretty easy... @Bob used PLA for his inMoov so he would not of used acetone... However, that is what I used and it works very well... You can also use the yellow abs plumbing cement (it has acetone in it). Is thicker so easier to work with. However, being yellow means it will show if you get it on more than just the joints... Most of the time I used just plain acetone, though....
Richard R,
Good to know. My Rafts come off the heat plate easy but are pretty much one with the part. I use and exacto to get them off but it didn't make for a clean line. I notice on yours you can't see where forearm parts join at all. I guess I'll try acetone and then sand.
Probably the photo doesn't show it well... Do the best you can as my joints (especially on the right arm) are not perfect either... I think I read somewhere on the inMoov forum that people were having fitment problems with the forearm pieces... I believe it because I had to do quite a bit of sanding to even get any kind of a fit...
I am not familiar with the software you are using for your DaVinci... However there has to be raft settings you can tweak to help facilitate raft/part separation... Is there a user group or forum for the users your 3d software? Maybe they can help with raft settings?...
I try not to use rafts as they are hard to get off. I use these Helper Disks instead and place them where I need them.
Hmm, can't seem to attach the files for them. @Checksumff what's your email, I'll send them to you that way
you can take some acetone and some filament to make a paste that is thicker and matches the color of your parts (due to being made using the same filament as the part you printed) to bond parts together. You can make it as thick or thin as you like, but I like mine to be about the consistency of a milk shake. From there, you can use a tongue depressor to apply it to the parts to join. This will make a very strong bond and will fill in the lines between the parts. You may be able to see a very faint line when it dries, but some sanding will take it down.
Bhouston,
Thank you but don't bother. I only used rafts because Gael suggest it on his website. I'll add base support in slicr and then import them to my davinci software. I need to get proficient at that process anyway. I think that's my last adventure with rafts.
d.cochran,
Thank you. I've heard of that but had no idea it could be made that thick. Bondo for 3D printers! I have to try that just so I can see how well it works. Learning a lot!
I did use raft when I print the big parts (ABS) of the arm.
I also need to sand the edges to smooth the marks left by the raft piece
All the blue parts are made of PLA and don't need to be sanded and fit nicely.
Acetone is working fine to stick parts together. Just use a small brush and wet the joint without touching the surface.
Once the parts are glued together add acetone inside the arm on the seam.
Suggestion, when you decide to glue the nail part on the fingers, just use 2 small drops of acetone, so if one of the braid line get loose or untie, it will be much easier to have access to it.
This is how I ran the wiring for the finger and wrist servos. I connected all Power and Grounds to the terminal in the picture and then ran all of signal wires and the main power wires back to the EZBv4.
Nice work on your arm!
@ bhouston: tanks
good idea with the power and ground terminal.
I was expecting to fit my HDMI in, but I 'll wait later when I print and assemble the bicep.
Richard R,
I went to order an ssc-32 on lynxmotion and it looks like all they sell is the usb version. Are you using the ssc-32 with the DB9 connector?
@Checksumff .... the usb version of the ssc-32 should work just as well.... I was thinking about ordering one myself just to, well.... have the latest and greatest... LOL
Richard R,
Looking at the back of your Inmoov I see now you don't use the DB9 connection but apparently there are pins on the SSC board for serial connection. I was a little confused. I would like to take you up on your offer of your SSC scripting if you don't mind.
@Checksumff, It took a bit of tweaking to get the strings just right, use a system that allows you to adjust the tension - like Aerius has done.
If by "hub", you mean the electrical connection in my picture - yes. It's 10 less wires to run all the way to the back.
Richard R,
In my never ending quest to spend more money in the long run...I think I'm going to try this one on amazon. Shanhai Arduino 16 Channel servo Motor Control Drive Board Compatible SSC3 . I'll let you know how that turns out!
@Checksumff Both the DB-9 and USB versions of the ssc-32 have Tx and Rx pins... Which makes it a snap to interface with the EZB... Let me know how the Arduino servo controller works out....
I also did a version of what Aerius did. Mine was a "guitar tuning peg" type screw set up to adjust finger line tension...
Here is a little sample code on using the ssc 32 to control servos with the ezb...
#This sample code uses the ezb UART port 0
#it sets the servo ports 0 to 4 on the ssc-32 to 90 degs
$pw="1500" #90deg... min is 500 (1), max is 2500 (180)
$m ="1000" #servo speed... smaller number = faster
UARTWrite(0,0,"#0P"+$pw+"T"+$m,13) #right thumb
UARTWrite(0,0,"#1P"+$pw+"T"+$m,13) #right index
UARTWrite(0,0,"#2P"+$pw+"T"+$m,13) #right middle
UARTWrite(0,0,"#3P"+$pw+"T"+$m,13) #right ring
UARTWrite(0,0,"#4P"+$pw+"T"+$m,13) #right baby
@BHouston, I was trolling and seen this post. Do you mind expanding on the hub or terminal you are using in the arms. Do you just run the signal wires to each port on the EZB and one positive and one negative to the the servos from a power source? I would like to do this to save so many wires going into the back of Inmoov.
That's correct. All the positive and negative servo wires go to a main power bus on the back of the robot and these are powered by two 6v 12 amp/hr batteries. The terminal in the forearm only has 2 power wires running back to the main bus. The signal wires go to the EZB. A common ground goes from the batteries to the EZB.
It works really well. I also have 2 power switches, one to turn the power on to the EZB and the other to power up the servos, once the EZB is connected.
@Josh... It got good reviews on Amazon.com.... However, be aware it only prints PLA due to the lack of a HBP.... Also it is a only single extruder.... If you are in the market and can afford it, I would go for something like the FlashForge Creator Pro.... I have one and it is an awesome printer....
@nomad... I will, but it depends on what you need.... I can only do it once in a while, not all the time.... Also, I only use ABS (not PLA) and I only have white or black.....
@nomad... before I give you my email address... you need to realize shipping to you from Canada won't be that cheap.... In the US things like shipping are much cheaper, but in Canada we pay much more... For example, it cost me $15 to ship just a EZB Camera back to EZ Robot in my own country....
Check out my profile for my email address... It is listed under my picture...
Personally I have print 1kilo of each ABS and PLA using the print profile given by the comp and the scraped material I could hold in one hand was beginner mistake I did myself.
b @Richard /b do you buy you filament local? Any suggestion where to buy them?
@Aerius.... I have bought from Robotshop.ca (they are in Quebec and have great service)... They are a little expensive, but great product and fast shipping.... However, I think your Dreamer needs specific filament cartridge? Amazon.ca might have them.... I have also bought filament off of eBay when I can find a deal...
Richard... tanks for the info.
You are right about the size of the cartridge, I will manually transfer the new filament to an empty cartridge.
I have just receive a 1k spool of ABS filament from www.botfeeder.ca
They are in Toronto and ship free by Canada Post.
There prices are in US $. I have paid 37 Can $ for an ABS spool.
I'll report back about their product quality.
@Aerius, why did you have to modify the servo? I've used a couple of different servos for the fingers and didn't have to modify them. Just wondering. Your servo pulley idea looks good.
@Aerius.... Yes, curious ... Did you not use the simple servo bed it the arm? I can't tell from the picture if you did or not... Like Bob, I just used the simple servo bed with no modifications to the finger servos either... Except for the servo pulleys... I did modify them....
I am using the simple servo bed.
The servos i am using are the ones from my Roli kit
As you can see, on the first pic, once you remove the EZ-bit from it, the servo have no bottom cover and also one side is missing the ears attachement.
Ok, I get it now... You had to uses the white servo brackets because you didn't have the original servo backs to use.... Good idea...
I used Tower Hobbies TS-80 giant scale servos instead of the Hitec 805bb. They are identical in every way including performance... I bought them here...Tower Giant Scale servo TS-80 Even with the exchange rate and shipping (no brokerage fees ) they were still cheaper than the Hitec 805bb from Robotshop.ca However, the Canadian dollar is now lower than when I bought them a month ago...
@Merne... I bought these Robtic lawn mower wheel kit My base is a 3 wheel design (actually 4, but only 2 up front drive wheels and 2 rear castor wheels)....
Thank you Richard. What is the width and length of your base? After seeing your latest video I would like to try to build something like your base. I think it would be the best way to make inmoov mobile.
The chassis is about 12 x 12 (the frame, not including the wheels)... Made it out of Vex 1x5 and 1x2 C-channels and L brackets... It's not too bad, but if I had to do it again I probably would have made a stronger chassis out of thicker grade angle iron....
HI Richard R, Can I ask one more question? Are you using the 4 wire hbridge to control the Driving motors of the link you posted. Do you mind posting a link of the controller you are using?
I am using a sabertooth 2 x 5.... but I have very effiecent motors... So depending on your motor requirements you might need a 2 x 12.... See here....Sabertooth motor controller
Don't buy the R/C version unless you plan on using a radio to control your inmoov (remote control radio)... Buy the microcontroller version instead if you are using it with your ezb... The 2 x 5 should work fine.... Both Bob Houston and I have the same motor setup and he is using the 2 x 5 with no issues as well... Try and keep the weight of the base as low (without sacrificing strength) a possible....
@Merne... Be careful with the wiring it up... There is no reverse polarity protection on the sabertooth.... I released the magical blue smoke in one of mine because I was careless and accidently reversed the battery connections...
They are expensive for sure.... But once you get to know how simple and convenient they are to use you won't want to go back to an H-bridge...
I have some example code on how to use the sabertooth so just holler if you need help with setting it up....
Here is an example of using a custom Movement Panel to control the sabertooth... It assumes the sabertooth is on D0 and the dipps are set to 38400 baud... Be aware some of the serial commands may have to be changed if say the robot turns left when it supposed to turn right or reverses instead of moving forward...
sabertooth_example.EZB
Hi Richard, I found an old thread your posted on...
"One is ground and the other is to s1 on the sabertooth... Use any of the ezbs digital ports... ground goes to black pin on the ezb and s1 goes to the white pin on the ezb. Nothing gets connected to the red pin..." (Richard r)
So 0Vis ground goes on D0 ground(black) and S1 goes to D0 Signal (white) do I need any other connections from the sabertoothto EZB?
Using the Simplified Serial, 3800 Buad A on the dip switch, right?
Is this the same for the 2x25, also does it matter which MA1, MA2 and MB1, MB2 connect to the motor(s) is MA1 neg and MA2 positive?
@ merne, you are right on the connections from the EZB to the Sabertooth, only two wires, ground and signal to OV and S1. 12V power to B- and B +, don't mix them up. Use the Simplified Serial dips witch settings. MA and MB are the motor leads and they can be changed positive/negative, so if your motor is turning in the wrong direction change the leads there or on your motor. Hope that helps you
Thanks Bob... @Merne, make sure the dips on the sabertooth are 1,3 and 6 up or on and the rest down or off... This sets the sabertooth for simplified serial at 38400 baud... As Bob mentioned, motors may spin in weird directions... Don't worry about it as we can either tweak the serial commands and/or reverse the motor connections as needed...
@merne, Richard R. taught me everything I know about Sabertooths but he didn't teach me everything he knows about Sabertooths! So keep posting questions and we'll all keep learning. I chimed in because he must have been spending a quiet evening with Andrew. Oh and maybe Sue, too.
@merne .. I am semi retired... and EZ Robot has re-ignited my passion for robotics... With ez robot I can do stuff now I could never do before so I am like a kid in a candy store...
Im shopping for parts for my InMoov now. I really want to put an onboard computer in it. I am looking at a miniITX motherboard with an 4th gen quad core I5, 16 GB of ram, SSD drive, a touch screen, usb hub and a couple of 1920 X 1080 usb cameras. I really want this guy to be completely mobile so that he can go to the schools football games next year and participate in events around town. I might even tether a phone so he can have 3G wifi while away from access points. Being able to connect to the internet with him is becoming increasingly more important and with EZ-AI using JSON queries, the amount of data that would be transferred would be very small..
This and the motors, wires and everything else involved in building an inmoov, and then the segway type base I need to build, I think the 3D printer(s) are out of the question for now.
Can someone list off all of the servos needed to build an InMoov with eye movement and wrists? Also, I am sure I will end up using 2 or 3 small car batteries to power him. For the segway base, I think I am going to go with 24 volt motors. It seems like the 12 volt ones are going to be too small and too slow. Yes Richard, I will be using a sabertooth so be ready to answer more questions
Merne, Thanks for the printing you are doing for me. It allows me to spend that money of the guts of the robot. I do really appreciate it. Now, to figure out what to do when it starts raining while he is out... Anyone know a supplier of huge trash bags? The cops might not think its too funny when they see me putting a stiff 6 foot body into a car. hmmm.
This is the Inmoov main site http://inmoov.fr There is a lot of information there.
You welcome on the printing, I think it's a good trade for your help on your database.
You might want to see how Richard R's servo's are working out. From his video it seem very good with the type of servos Richard is using and cheaper it sounds Like.
The Segway look alike (dareway) uses casters to balance and it's 29 x 29 inch which is too large for my house and I would rather use Richard R's platform for now. I know there is a guy, do not remember right at the moment, is putting together DIY Segway that is self balancing for around $700.00. I don't know the measurements.
BTY, the torso parts are finished, 7 neck part completed.
@d.cochran.... Yeah, whatever you need David.... If you're going with a 24V system then make sure you at least buy the 2 x 12 version of the sabertooth.... It might be overkill but you might want to consider the 2 x 25 instead.... Not knowing what amps your motors will be pulling and the size/weight of your inmoov it might be a safer bet... If you need speed ramping, @Rich has developed a script for that....
@OldBotBuilder so true.... Without robotics I would go nuts with cabin fever... Now that Canada has become the new arctic.... What I can't understand is that England sent their marginal citizens to nice warm, beautiful Australia (their penal colony) and sent their model citizens to arctic Canada...Hmmmm... confused
hi Richard hey I'm trying to get my Sabertooth running I tried the Sabertooth serial Movement Panel but it defaults to board 0 port 23 I need to use board 2 do you mind sending me the script on my email?
[email protected]
thanks
@Merne... Go into my custom movement panel's settings and change the following...
from...
SendSerial(D23,38400,127) #127
SendSerial(D23,38400,128) #128
To this
SendSerial(2.D23,38400,127) #127 #2. added to indicate board 2
SendSerial(2.D23,38400,128) #128 #2. added to indicate board 2
You are adding 2. in front of the port to indicated you want to send this command to board 2
do this for all the other movement commands in the custom Movement Panel and for all commands sent to board 2 in general...
@Aerius No, set the pot at 90 with you're inmoov standing straight up... You only need about 70 for the min value and 110 for max value for the range of side to side motion... So all you have to do is run 2 wires from the servo with the control board still in it to the servo with only the motor and gears left in it... In other words just run 2 wires from one motor to the other motor... + to + and - to - parallel...
@Aerius ... Not sure about your diagram... You only need two wires to the second servo... One servo has the control board still inside, the second one has the pot and the electronics removed... solder extra wires from that first servo motor contacts and then solder those wires to the second servo motor (which has the complete control board removed)... Motor to motor contacts...Do not reverse the polarity either... When you test them they should both spin in the same direction... The left and right pistons are different so they will take care of the fact they are spinning in the same direction... they will rotate properly as needed... Remember the second servo is just a motor and gears left in it... no electronics so you just solder the 2 wires to the + and - motor contacts...
@Aerius LOL... I did the same thing.... one of my 805bb got damaged some how while I was removing the pot so I just removed all the electronics and used it as the second servo in the waist of my inMoov....
Hey guys, I've just started building the shoulders of my Inmoov and im having some difficultly understanding the motor mods. I can understand why the pot is mounted outside and i see the need for rotation greater than 180 degrees but why the reversed polarity for one shoulder? is this just for the sake of uniform programming of the motor movements or am i missing something bigger here? couldnt i just program it with reversed values? I know its not very difficult to reverse 2 connections but I would hate to implement something i dont even understand. I'm probably just not comprehending the instruction very well so any help would be great.
@WilliamK No, not just for uniform programming... If you don't reverse the wires in the pots of the servos in the right shoulder the gearbox(s) will spin but won't ever stop. This is because the gearbox is moving in the opposite direction the pot needs in order to meet its target angle and stop... Try it you will see what I mean... The arms are mirror images of each other.... To summarize 3 servos in the right shoulder need their pot wires reversed for their gearboxes to rotate the potentiometer in the correct direction... No amount of programming will compensate for this...
Yep, that makes perfect sense. I probably should have trusted the instruction and im sure it would have seemed cleared once the parts were together. I can move forward with a little more confidence now. Big thanks for the help.
Richard R, I really like the idea of using the SSC. I'm only just finishing printing the right hand and arm so I still have to buy servos and now the SSC instead of the arduino. I've been keeping up with your post so I had the same delimna you did with what printer to buy. I went with the davinci 1 and so far so good. It was mostly a price driven decision. I bought it for $400(US) without warranty. We'll see. There are two drawbacks, one is using the company software instead of open source software like pronterface or repetier. The funny part is I don't know anything about 3d printing so their software works great for me. The other problem is you have to use the company filament cartridges which are expensive.
I ended up with 2 printers... The UP! Plus 2 and more recently the Flashforge Creator Pro.... I am happy (albeit much poorer LOL) with them both... The up uses proprietary software which is very good and easy to use, but lacks features... For the Flashforge I use Simplify3d which is stellar... Loaded with features yet easy to use... Drawback is it cost $140 US....
I know Gael states that you can print the inMoov with a printer that has a build envelop of 12cm x 12cm x 12cm.... However, I have run into a few parts that barely fit my UP! (which has a larger build envelop then 12cm x 12cm x 12cm)... What is your print build area on your Davinci? Great price for it by the way....
Advertised at 20X20X20. I think it's meant as an introductory printer, but heh, I'm new. What parts are the largest on your build so far? I couldn't get the forearm parts to print on our makerspace printer because they where too large but the davinci didn't have a problem. On the other hand, the forearm parts took 5-6 hours each to print.
Wow... 20 x 20 x 20.... Then you're should be good for all the inMoov parts... The chest pieces, some in the torso, head and bicep are the largest... There will be parts that may take almost 8hours to print (depending on your layer resolution and finish quality you've set).... I have been printing my inMoov at 200 microns (.2mm) and with a fine finish... Seems to look pretty decent.... Are you printing with PLA or ABS? I am using abs....
I'm using ABS. I don't know if Davinci will print PLA. I'm using .3mm and medium quality, could probably look better, but I'm ecstatic to get anything! Do you put a coat of acetone on the parts after printing. I read a piece that said it makes them stronger and look better. Gael said he coats the inside of the piece only, he doesn't like the way it looks.
A little tip... print small parts like gears or parts that need a precise fit with a higher resolution and more of a solid infill (gears)... This is especially important for parts that will have a good load put on them....
You're also going to discover some parts will need a bit of sanding to fit well...
@Checksumff, Good idea to make a thread for InMoov and EZ-Robot, why didn't I think of this! InMoov a great project. I know of 5 people in this community running or planning to run their InMoov with Ez-Robot. I will be nice to keep in touch here.
Awesome bhouston, I love what you have done so far! Your bot looks great!
Richard R,
"You're also going to discover some parts will need a bit of sanding to fit well..."
I hear that. I made the forearm parts with raft. That creates a lot of sanding in itself. I'll keep in mind what you're saying about gearing and print quality. Honestly, using the club printer which is old and worn out, I just assumed that lot's of sanding, gluing and fitting was part of the deal. Maybe not...
Did you mount the arm and play with it alone before starting on the rest of the build, or are you going to build the entire bot and then start programing?
I would really like to duplicate what Gael did with the leap motion controller and the arm. DJ started with Leap motion but I think he said he did not like the sdk. I'm going to try just because it makes such a cool demo.
Sorry to repeat, but I'm really excited about the SSC instead of the arduino!
Sorry, did you have a specific question about the SSC-32?.... I was going to use 2 ezbs, but decided (since I had one) to use an SSC for my inmoov... I now have 12 more ports on the ezb free for other sensors (which I have yet to add still)... I assembled as I went, but actually strung my right hand after building the complete right arm... I was having a little trouble getting the fishing line and fingers to work right... Got that sorted out now... Modifying the 805bb servos for the external pot mod was a little challenging at first, but that too eventually worked out....
I wrote test scripts to test basic movements as I assemble each part... I am currently building the lower stomach (with the two 805bbs for rocking side to side movement) ... When I finish that I can begin more advanced programing...
Eventually I'll post a video of my finished inMoov.... I am a little hesitant as it would be very hard to match Bob Houston's work....
I'd like to joint this tread because I start my own Inmoov project to.
Since the last 3 weeks I have receive my Flashforge Dreamer 3 d printer and have spend both PLA and ABS filament (1 kilo each) printing one arm and part of chest.
I am new in 3d printing and very satisfy with the printing profile given by Flashforge I am using acetone on the bed so the print stick very well on it. and acetone works very well to glue parts together.
Sugestion: try to joint parts together with 123 design (depending of the bed size) when you print torso part. they are design to go press fit and they need sanding before you fit them together
The hand in now controlled by EZ-Robot servos and EZB V4 I did hijack from my roli I have receive at same time of my printer.
I have modify and adapt some horn from Thingivers to fit on the servos.
I also intend to use HDMI connector to reduce the amount of wires (6 servos only for the hand) so there will be only one cable going to the chest
when your hand is ready to operate try the small script named Inmoov-right hand-1 on the cloud, Auto Position control is the tool you need to develop gesture.
see some pic showing where i am with this project. i am presently waiting for the filament delivery to continue with it.
I am trying to figure out how to install this Short range IR sensor in inMoov's wrist so he will be able to sense whether an object is in his hand or not... It would be nice to be able to hand him something and have his hand close automatically without having to tell him to...
No specific question with the SSC-32, not that far yet. First I have to assemble the forearm/hand. Then a break to play with the leap motion sdk and hand. I'm not very optimistic just based on what DJ said about it. So, you'll be done 15 times over before I get the hand done. BTW, will you guys please take back this cold front, our blood doesn't have any antifreeze down here! (Colorado)
@Aerius... Nice....
Are you printing abs directly on your build plate without kapton tape? Just with acetone?
I also adapted my servo horns in the forearm to work similar to guitar tuning pegs... That way it is simple to loosen or tighten the fishing line as required...
@Checksumff LOL... Not so bad here in southern Ontario where I live... Actually Buffalo New York usually gets worse winter weather than we do in Ontario...
If you need help with the ssc-32 , I can set you up with a sample ARC script I wrote...
Awesome Richard R, Thanks!
Aerius, That looks great! Thanks for the tips!
since the fingers do not reach the lower part of the hand's palm, you could experiment to stick the sensor in that area and run the cables in the slot going to the wrist.
Aerius, Interesting thought with the HDMI cable. Didn't know they had that many wires. What is that peice your connecting called. HDMI breakout board?
@ richard, i am still using the kapton tape supply with the printer.
@ checksumff, lets do it
rr
didn know you had an imoove and a 3d printer.
Female Field Termination Connector for HDMI Applications supply by L-com.com
http://www.l-com.com/audio-video-female-field-termination-connector-for-hdmi-applications
Richard, I don't have any ideas on using the I/R detector. Not sure how that would look. You see something there but you don't know if you've captured it.
I did not like the sensors on the Inmoov sight but don't have a better idea.
It would be interesting if they had cheap load cells/strain gauges that could tie inline with the fish string. That way, if you where tightening grip and load increased before you got to the end of servo travel you would know you have something. Unfortuneately you would need a cell for each finger and it would probably get expensive even if they had cells that small.
Thanks for the link Aerius.
@ Checksumff
just an idea how it could be implement
Aerius, Agreed.
I've never looked but there probably is no sensor small and cheap that we could use.
Besides, I'm way ahead of myself here because I don't even have an arm yet!
Check out Markus blog on www.myrobotlab.org, he did something similar with the HDMI cables. Looks very slick!
@nomad... I actually have 2 printers now... I started building my inMoov in the beginning of November
I think I will purchase at least one if not 2 ultimaker 2's in March. I had thought about going with either of the two flash forges and starting mine up again this month, but decided to wait and get a couple of the ultimaker 2's. That will give you guys some time to figure out more, and give me more people to go to when I start my build of an Inmoov. I am thinking about a DIY Segway for mobility right now. It seems the best way to allow him to move around and all. Anyway, thanks for the thread. I will be watching closely.
@Aerius .. Your inMoov hand looks great... What resolution are you printing at 100 or 200 Microns?
@d.cochran... Segway base sounds awesome... Mine is quite a bit less sophisticated than yours... Couple of robotic lawnmower drive motors and wheels, swivel castor rear wheel and some Vex aluminum structure for a frame(still needs to be a little bit higher, though).... Sorry can't get the picture rotated....
all arm cover have been printed at .20 mm
Mobility for InMoov, Ya, that's where we need to go! @Richard R, did you build that wheeled base for InMoov? I'd like to work towards something like that too
@Bob... sort of (I actually made it for my Halloween robot contest entry).... I will make modifications so it will work with my inMoov...
Richard R, Do you think those TowerPro MG946's would be suitable for the Inmoov hand and wrist? it would be a great way not to break my meager piggy bank.
@Checksumff... these are what I bought.... TowerPro MG946
Thanks Richard R, just bought them. That was timely.
Awesome.... Just don't expect speedy delivery... They are coming from China after all....
I've used both the TowerPro MG995 and the Hi-Tech HS-311 without any problems. I think that the Ez-Robot Heavy duty servo would also be a good one to use.
Thanks Bhouston, I'm trying to make a display of the hand for our makerspace. I really only need it to actuate not pick up anything. Long story short, cheap is good!
I hear ya, The 311's are the cheapest I can buy locally.
@bob... that's funny... you use a relatively low power servo for your inMoov's wrist and I was using a much stronger MG946 and mine ends up burning out... LOL... To be honest, I think some plastic debris from the forearm dropped into the wrist gears and possibly jammed it which caused the servo to burn out....
bhouston, Out of curiosity, when you printed your large forearm parts, did you use raft. As I trimmed mine I didn't do such a good job. The join line is very visible. I feel like if I hadn't used raft I would have had a much cleaner looking connection. Any tips on making the join lines less visible? Acetone?
@hecksumff... My rafts tend to come off pretty easy... @Bob used PLA for his inMoov so he would not of used acetone... However, that is what I used and it works very well... You can also use the yellow abs plumbing cement (it has acetone in it). Is thicker so easier to work with. However, being yellow means it will show if you get it on more than just the joints... Most of the time I used just plain acetone, though....
Richard R, Good to know. My Rafts come off the heat plate easy but are pretty much one with the part. I use and exacto to get them off but it didn't make for a clean line. I notice on yours you can't see where forearm parts join at all. I guess I'll try acetone and then sand.
Probably the photo doesn't show it well... Do the best you can as my joints (especially on the right arm) are not perfect either... I think I read somewhere on the inMoov forum that people were having fitment problems with the forearm pieces... I believe it because I had to do quite a bit of sanding to even get any kind of a fit...
I am not familiar with the software you are using for your DaVinci... However there has to be raft settings you can tweak to help facilitate raft/part separation... Is there a user group or forum for the users your 3d software? Maybe they can help with raft settings?...
There is and I'll check. I'm afraid Arius has set a very high bar. Different colors and it looks perfect.
I try not to use rafts as they are hard to get off. I use these Helper Disks instead and place them where I need them. Hmm, can't seem to attach the files for them. @Checksumff what's your email, I'll send them to you that way
you can take some acetone and some filament to make a paste that is thicker and matches the color of your parts (due to being made using the same filament as the part you printed) to bond parts together. You can make it as thick or thin as you like, but I like mine to be about the consistency of a milk shake. From there, you can use a tongue depressor to apply it to the parts to join. This will make a very strong bond and will fill in the lines between the parts. You may be able to see a very faint line when it dries, but some sanding will take it down.
This only works with ABS but it works very well.
d.cochran.... good tip, thanks!
Bhouston, Thank you but don't bother. I only used rafts because Gael suggest it on his website. I'll add base support in slicr and then import them to my davinci software. I need to get proficient at that process anyway. I think that's my last adventure with rafts.
d.cochran, Thank you. I've heard of that but had no idea it could be made that thick. Bondo for 3D printers! I have to try that just so I can see how well it works. Learning a lot!
I did use raft when I print the big parts (ABS) of the arm. I also need to sand the edges to smooth the marks left by the raft piece
All the blue parts are made of PLA and don't need to be sanded and fit nicely.
Acetone is working fine to stick parts together. Just use a small brush and wet the joint without touching the surface.
Once the parts are glued together add acetone inside the arm on the seam.
Suggestion, when you decide to glue the nail part on the fingers, just use 2 small drops of acetone, so if one of the braid line get loose or untie, it will be much easier to have access to it.
This is how I ran the wiring for the finger and wrist servos. I connected all Power and Grounds to the terminal in the picture and then ran all of signal wires and the main power wires back to the EZBv4. Nice work on your arm!
@ bhouston: tanks good idea with the power and ground terminal. I was expecting to fit my HDMI in, but I 'll wait later when I print and assemble the bicep.
Richard R, I went to order an ssc-32 on lynxmotion and it looks like all they sell is the usb version. Are you using the ssc-32 with the DB9 connector?
hi guys
i was thinking would it be good to ad a little spring on the cables. ive seen this whit other robots too.it gives less stress for the servo.
you can see this excample robosapien v2,all has little springs.
@Checksumff .... the usb version of the ssc-32 should work just as well.... I was thinking about ordering one myself just to, well.... have the latest and greatest... LOL
Some people have been putting springs on the tension lines for the fingers of their InMoov. See the following InMoov forum discussion https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topicsearchin/inmoov/springs/inmoov/j02JsjSSSwI
bhousten
thanks for posting.
BHouston, Having not achieved the string install yet myself... Do you have issues with the string loosening? Do you think that hub is the way to go?
Richard R, Looking at the back of your Inmoov I see now you don't use the DB9 connection but apparently there are pins on the SSC board for serial connection. I was a little confused. I would like to take you up on your offer of your SSC scripting if you don't mind.
@Checksumff, It took a bit of tweaking to get the strings just right, use a system that allows you to adjust the tension - like Aerius has done. If by "hub", you mean the electrical connection in my picture - yes. It's 10 less wires to run all the way to the back.
Thanks BHouston!
Richard R, In my never ending quest to spend more money in the long run...I think I'm going to try this one on amazon. Shanhai Arduino 16 Channel servo Motor Control Drive Board Compatible SSC3 . I'll let you know how that turns out!
@Checksumff Both the DB-9 and USB versions of the ssc-32 have Tx and Rx pins... Which makes it a snap to interface with the EZB... Let me know how the Arduino servo controller works out....
I also did a version of what Aerius did. Mine was a "guitar tuning peg" type screw set up to adjust finger line tension...
Here is a little sample code on using the ssc 32 to control servos with the ezb...
Thanks Richard R!
@BHouston, I was trolling and seen this post. Do you mind expanding on the hub or terminal you are using in the arms. Do you just run the signal wires to each port on the EZB and one positive and one negative to the the servos from a power source? I would like to do this to save so many wires going into the back of Inmoov.
Thanks, Merne
That's correct. All the positive and negative servo wires go to a main power bus on the back of the robot and these are powered by two 6v 12 amp/hr batteries. The terminal in the forearm only has 2 power wires running back to the main bus. The signal wires go to the EZB. A common ground goes from the batteries to the EZB.
@BHouston, Thanks! I am going to try that.
It works really well. I also have 2 power switches, one to turn the power on to the EZB and the other to power up the servos, once the EZB is connected.
By the way, I noticed a "dremel" dream 3d printer. Anyone have anything good to say about it?
@Josh... It got good reviews on Amazon.com.... However, be aware it only prints PLA due to the lack of a HBP.... Also it is a only single extruder.... If you are in the market and can afford it, I would go for something like the FlashForge Creator Pro.... I have one and it is an awesome printer....
rr
do you print parts for averyone?
@nomad... I will, but it depends on what you need.... I can only do it once in a while, not all the time.... Also, I only use ABS (not PLA) and I only have white or black.....
rr can i mail you?
sorry to change the topic a little.
@nomad... before I give you my email address... you need to realize shipping to you from Canada won't be that cheap.... In the US things like shipping are much cheaper, but in Canada we pay much more... For example, it cost me $15 to ship just a EZB Camera back to EZ Robot in my own country....
Check out my profile for my email address... It is listed under my picture...
rr thank you
b @Josh /b the printer you see on picture is a Flash Forge Dreamer 3d. In fact it looks the same as Dremel one. You may compare the specs at http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/3d-printers/flashforge-dreamer-dual-extrusion-3d-printer.html/
you also may watch videos on youtube starting from unpacking to usage http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3MbHtST307o
Personally I have print 1kilo of each ABS and PLA using the print profile given by the comp and the scraped material I could hold in one hand was beginner mistake I did myself.
b @Richard /b do you buy you filament local? Any suggestion where to buy them?
@Aerius.... I have bought from Robotshop.ca (they are in Quebec and have great service)... They are a little expensive, but great product and fast shipping.... However, I think your Dreamer needs specific filament cartridge? Amazon.ca might have them.... I have also bought filament off of eBay when I can find a deal...
Richard... tanks for the info. You are right about the size of the cartridge, I will manually transfer the new filament to an empty cartridge.
I have just receive a 1k spool of ABS filament from www.botfeeder.ca They are in Toronto and ship free by Canada Post. There prices are in US $. I have paid 37 Can $ for an ABS spool. I'll report back about their product quality.
For all you Easteners, check out Voxelfactory.com . They are in Montreal and sell a broad range of filaments. I've used their PLA - good stuff.
@Bob... Those are some seriously good prices... Thanks!
Are the prices Canadian?
Yes
@Bob... Thanks!... Way ahead of ya' ... just bought 3 rolls of abs from them...
@ bhoustob, Just great, they have a public counter and I'll be allowed to pic-up what ever I order. Tanks for the reff.
Bottom cover stl file to modify EZB servo bottomcover-5.stl
Top Holder piece stl file topcover-2.stl
Pulley with bread line attachment
Arm_Servo_pulley_X5_12-26.stl
@Aerius, why did you have to modify the servo? I've used a couple of different servos for the fingers and didn't have to modify them. Just wondering. Your servo pulley idea looks good.
@Aerius.... Yes, curious ... Did you not use the simple servo bed it the arm? I can't tell from the picture if you did or not... Like Bob, I just used the simple servo bed with no modifications to the finger servos either... Except for the servo pulleys... I did modify them....
I am using the simple servo bed. The servos i am using are the ones from my Roli kit As you can see, on the first pic, once you remove the EZ-bit from it, the servo have no bottom cover and also one side is missing the ears attachement.
I could have buy extra servo from Ez-robot, https://synthiam.com/Shop/AccessoriesDetails.aspx?prevCat=9&productNumber=7
But for now i have plenty of them from my kit.
I suppose robotshop is the right place to get the HS-805BB ?
I want to stay away from US delivery, last week I have been charge 46$ (tax and brooker) for an order of 40$.
Ok, I get it now... You had to uses the white servo brackets because you didn't have the original servo backs to use.... Good idea...
I used Tower Hobbies TS-80 giant scale servos instead of the Hitec 805bb. They are identical in every way including performance... I bought them here...Tower Giant Scale servo TS-80 Even with the exchange rate and shipping (no brokerage fees ) they were still cheaper than the Hitec 805bb from Robotshop.ca However, the Canadian dollar is now lower than when I bought them a month ago...
Tanks Richard, I'll give it a try.
Printing the Inmoov project will take long time, but meanwhile we can have fun with what is already done.
Note: the female voice is coming from the laptop and the male voice is from the EZ-B.
Check this Youtube video
EZ-Robot chating with InMoov arm
Aerius, That was really neat! Can you explain a little more about how you did that. Are you using chatbots somehow or was that all scripted?
Tanks Checksumff,
It's all in scripting, It alternate between SayWait..(Laptop) & SayEZBwait (EZB) EX:
:female ControlCommand("Speech Settings", SetVoiceGender, "Female") return
:male ControlCommand("Speech Settings", SetVoiceGender, "Male") return
ControlCommand("Auto Position", AutoPositionFrame, "main relaxe", 5,5,1)
goto (female) SayWait("Hello, My name is ARC, the software made by EZ-Robot and running on this laptop.")..........
goto (male) SayEZBwait("I am THE THING")
goto (female) Saywait("what thing? what do you mean?")
The gesture is frames and actions defined within Auto Position control
@Checksumff Aerius is pretty clever... He is alternating between windows voices and saywait() computer pc and sayezbwait() EZB...
Hi Richard, do you mind sharing the size and what type of motors of you robot base your are using for your inmoov and is it a 3 wheel or 4 wheel base?
Thank you.
@Merne... I bought these Robtic lawn mower wheel kit My base is a 3 wheel design (actually 4, but only 2 up front drive wheels and 2 rear castor wheels)....
Thank you Richard. What is the width and length of your base? After seeing your latest video I would like to try to build something like your base. I think it would be the best way to make inmoov mobile.
Thank a lot for the information.
The chassis is about 12 x 12 (the frame, not including the wheels)... Made it out of Vex 1x5 and 1x2 C-channels and L brackets... It's not too bad, but if I had to do it again I probably would have made a stronger chassis out of thicker grade angle iron....
HI Richard R, Can I ask one more question? Are you using the 4 wire hbridge to control the Driving motors of the link you posted. Do you mind posting a link of the controller you are using?
Thank you.
I am using a sabertooth 2 x 5.... but I have very effiecent motors... So depending on your motor requirements you might need a 2 x 12.... See here....Sabertooth motor controller
Thank you Richard R, I will be using the Robtic lawn mower wheel kit motors, so will the saberthoth 2x5 be ok? spendy little buggers! Thank you.
@Richard R. So is it this one? http://www.robotshop.com/en/sabertooth-2x5a-rc-driver.html
Sabertooth Dual 5A R/C 6-18V Regenerative Motor Driver (R/C)
I just want to make sure because I don't want to buy the wrong part(s)
Thank you for your help.
Don't buy the R/C version unless you plan on using a radio to control your inmoov (remote control radio)... Buy the microcontroller version instead if you are using it with your ezb... The 2 x 5 should work fine.... Both Bob Houston and I have the same motor setup and he is using the 2 x 5 with no issues as well... Try and keep the weight of the base as low (without sacrificing strength) a possible....
@Merne.... on second though... you should get the 2 x 12 sabertooth just to be sure....
Thanks!
@Merne... Be careful with the wiring it up... There is no reverse polarity protection on the sabertooth.... I released the magical blue smoke in one of mine because I was careless and accidently reversed the battery connections...
They are expensive for sure.... But once you get to know how simple and convenient they are to use you won't want to go back to an H-bridge...
I have some example code on how to use the sabertooth so just holler if you need help with setting it up....
Cheers Richard
@Richard R. i got the sabrthooth 2 x 25 do you mind sharing the example code using the sabrthooth?
Thank you
Here is an example of using a custom Movement Panel to control the sabertooth... It assumes the sabertooth is on D0 and the dipps are set to 38400 baud... Be aware some of the serial commands may have to be changed if say the robot turns left when it supposed to turn right or reverses instead of moving forward... sabertooth_example.EZB
@Richard R. could you please spoonfeed me i dont want any magic smoke anymore. Do you mind a diagram to connecrt this saberthooth to the ezb ?
thank you.
Hi Richard, I found an old thread your posted on... "One is ground and the other is to s1 on the sabertooth... Use any of the ezbs digital ports... ground goes to black pin on the ezb and s1 goes to the white pin on the ezb. Nothing gets connected to the red pin..." (Richard r)
So 0Vis ground goes on D0 ground(black) and S1 goes to D0 Signal (white) do I need any other connections from the sabertoothto EZB?
Using the Simplified Serial, 3800 Buad A on the dip switch, right?
Is this the same for the 2x25, also does it matter which MA1, MA2 and MB1, MB2 connect to the motor(s) is MA1 neg and MA2 positive?
Thank you
I forgot 1 more question, I can use a 2vDC connected on B- and B+ right?
Thank you again for all your help! Merne
That last post should have been 12vdc nor 2vdc eek
@ merne, you are right on the connections from the EZB to the Sabertooth, only two wires, ground and signal to OV and S1. 12V power to B- and B +, don't mix them up. Use the Simplified Serial dips witch settings. MA and MB are the motor leads and they can be changed positive/negative, so if your motor is turning in the wrong direction change the leads there or on your motor. Hope that helps you
@bhouston, Thank you! Now I am going to connect it up and try it out!
Thanks Bob... @Merne, make sure the dips on the sabertooth are 1,3 and 6 up or on and the rest down or off... This sets the sabertooth for simplified serial at 38400 baud... As Bob mentioned, motors may spin in weird directions... Don't worry about it as we can either tweak the serial commands and/or reverse the motor connections as needed...
@merne, Richard R. taught me everything I know about Sabertooths but he didn't teach me everything he knows about Sabertooths! So keep posting questions and we'll all keep learning. I chimed in because he must have been spending a quiet evening with Andrew. Oh and maybe Sue, too.
@Bob... Ha, ha... more like the fact I went to bed at 7:30pm (EST)....
Not to hijack this thread, but would one of you Canadian guys come get your cold air back?
@Zap... It's not ours... It's Russia's...
@b.houston, lol. Richard was building the next Mars equipment for yhe 2024 mission.
@richard r. thanks for the help. i dont know how you find the time to build you bots so fast.
@merne .. I am semi retired... and EZ Robot has re-ignited my passion for robotics... With ez robot I can do stuff now I could never do before so I am like a kid in a candy store...
@Richard R Are not we all! (Like a kid in a candy store..)
Im shopping for parts for my InMoov now. I really want to put an onboard computer in it. I am looking at a miniITX motherboard with an 4th gen quad core I5, 16 GB of ram, SSD drive, a touch screen, usb hub and a couple of 1920 X 1080 usb cameras. I really want this guy to be completely mobile so that he can go to the schools football games next year and participate in events around town. I might even tether a phone so he can have 3G wifi while away from access points. Being able to connect to the internet with him is becoming increasingly more important and with EZ-AI using JSON queries, the amount of data that would be transferred would be very small..
This and the motors, wires and everything else involved in building an inmoov, and then the segway type base I need to build, I think the 3D printer(s) are out of the question for now.
Can someone list off all of the servos needed to build an InMoov with eye movement and wrists? Also, I am sure I will end up using 2 or 3 small car batteries to power him. For the segway base, I think I am going to go with 24 volt motors. It seems like the 12 volt ones are going to be too small and too slow. Yes Richard, I will be using a sabertooth so be ready to answer more questions
Merne, Thanks for the printing you are doing for me. It allows me to spend that money of the guts of the robot. I do really appreciate it. Now, to figure out what to do when it starts raining while he is out... Anyone know a supplier of huge trash bags? The cops might not think its too funny when they see me putting a stiff 6 foot body into a car. hmmm.
Lol at the 6 foot body, might help in a HOV lane on the freeway? Here is a link to the BOM info http://www.inmoov.fr/default-hardware-map/
This is the Inmoov main site http://inmoov.fr There is a lot of information there. You welcome on the printing, I think it's a good trade for your help on your database.
You might want to see how Richard R's servo's are working out. From his video it seem very good with the type of servos Richard is using and cheaper it sounds Like.
The Segway look alike (dareway) uses casters to balance and it's 29 x 29 inch which is too large for my house and I would rather use Richard R's platform for now. I know there is a guy, do not remember right at the moment, is putting together DIY Segway that is self balancing for around $700.00. I don't know the measurements.
BTY, the torso parts are finished, 7 neck part completed.
@d.cochran.... Yeah, whatever you need David.... If you're going with a 24V system then make sure you at least buy the 2 x 12 version of the sabertooth.... It might be overkill but you might want to consider the 2 x 25 instead.... Not knowing what amps your motors will be pulling and the size/weight of your inmoov it might be a safer bet... If you need speed ramping, @Rich has developed a script for that....
@OldBotBuilder so true.... Without robotics I would go nuts with cabin fever... Now that Canada has become the new arctic....
What I can't understand is that England sent their marginal citizens to nice warm, beautiful Australia (their penal colony) and sent their model citizens to arctic Canada...Hmmmm... confused
hi Richard hey I'm trying to get my Sabertooth running I tried the Sabertooth serial Movement Panel but it defaults to board 0 port 23 I need to use board 2 do you mind sending me the script on my email? [email protected] thanks
@Merne... Go into my custom movement panel's settings and change the following... from... SendSerial(D23,38400,127) #127 SendSerial(D23,38400,128) #128 To this SendSerial(2.D23,38400,127) #127 #2. added to indicate board 2 SendSerial(2.D23,38400,128) #128 #2. added to indicate board 2
You are adding 2. in front of the port to indicated you want to send this command to board 2
do this for all the other movement commands in the custom Movement Panel and for all commands sent to board 2 in general...
@ Richard I am presently hacking 2 servos for the Inmoov low stomach.
If I understand clearly, both servos will share one external potentiometer and one control connection on EZB.
My question is: Since both servos circuitry are sharing one pot, is there a need to increase the pot. value?
Tanks for your help.
@Aerius No, set the pot at 90 with you're inmoov standing straight up... You only need about 70 for the min value and 110 for max value for the range of side to side motion... So all you have to do is run 2 wires from the servo with the control board still in it to the servo with only the motor and gears left in it... In other words just run 2 wires from one motor to the other motor... + to + and - to - parallel...
no you should not have to increase the pots value just make sure to or reverse polarity on one of the motors
Tanks Richard and Merne,
Is this correct? I have remove the wiring diagram pic. which was not relate to the subject
@Aerius ... Not sure about your diagram... You only need two wires to the second servo... One servo has the control board still inside, the second one has the pot and the electronics removed... solder extra wires from that first servo motor contacts and then solder those wires to the second servo motor (which has the complete control board removed)... Motor to motor contacts...Do not reverse the polarity either... When you test them they should both spin in the same direction... The left and right pistons are different so they will take care of the fact they are spinning in the same direction... they will rotate properly as needed... Remember the second servo is just a motor and gears left in it... no electronics so you just solder the 2 wires to the + and - motor contacts...
@ Richard, You just made my day. I was just going to throw in garbage a HS-805BB with a defective controler in it. Tanks for the clarifications.
@Aerius LOL... I did the same thing.... one of my 805bb got damaged some how while I was removing the pot so I just removed all the electronics and used it as the second servo in the waist of my inMoov....
Hey guys, I've just started building the shoulders of my Inmoov and im having some difficultly understanding the motor mods. I can understand why the pot is mounted outside and i see the need for rotation greater than 180 degrees but why the reversed polarity for one shoulder? is this just for the sake of uniform programming of the motor movements or am i missing something bigger here? couldnt i just program it with reversed values? I know its not very difficult to reverse 2 connections but I would hate to implement something i dont even understand. I'm probably just not comprehending the instruction very well so any help would be great.
@WilliamK No, not just for uniform programming... If you don't reverse the wires in the pots of the servos in the right shoulder the gearbox(s) will spin but won't ever stop. This is because the gearbox is moving in the opposite direction the pot needs in order to meet its target angle and stop... Try it you will see what I mean... The arms are mirror images of each other.... To summarize 3 servos in the right shoulder need their pot wires reversed for their gearboxes to rotate the potentiometer in the correct direction... No amount of programming will compensate for this...
Yep, that makes perfect sense. I probably should have trusted the instruction and im sure it would have seemed cleared once the parts were together. I can move forward with a little more confidence now. Big thanks for the help.