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Inmoov And Synthiam

A thread for using EZ-Robot for Inmoov control so we don't have to keep hijacking other threads.

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Richard R, I really like the idea of using the SSC. I'm only just finishing printing the right hand and arm so I still have to buy servos and now the SSC instead of the arduino. I've been keeping up with your post so I had the same delimna you did with what printer to buy. I went with the davinci 1 and so far so good. It was mostly a price driven decision. I bought it for $400(US) without warranty. We'll see. There are two drawbacks, one is using the company software instead of open source software like pronterface or repetier. The funny part is I don't know anything about 3d printing so their software works great for me. The other problem is you have to use the company filament cartridges which are expensive.

Anyway, I look forward to watching your progress and sharing ideas with you and the others who are building Inmoov. Also hat's off to Gael for sharing such an incredible build!
Not to hijack this thread, but would one of you Canadian guys come get your cold air back?
@b.houston, lol. Richard was building the next Mars equipment for yhe 2024 mission. :)

@richard r. thanks for the help. i dont know how you find the time to build you bots so fast.
@merne .. I am semi retired... and EZ Robot has re-ignited my passion for robotics... With ez robot I can do stuff now I could never do before so I am like a kid in a candy store...:)
@Richard R
Are not we all! (Like a kid in a candy store..)
Im shopping for parts for my InMoov now. I really want to put an onboard computer in it. I am looking at a miniITX motherboard with an 4th gen quad core I5, 16 GB of ram, SSD drive, a touch screen, usb hub and a couple of 1920 X 1080 usb cameras. I really want this guy to be completely mobile so that he can go to the schools football games next year and participate in events around town. I might even tether a phone so he can have 3G wifi while away from access points. Being able to connect to the internet with him is becoming increasingly more important and with EZ-AI using JSON queries, the amount of data that would be transferred would be very small..

This and the motors, wires and everything else involved in building an inmoov, and then the segway type base I need to build, I think the 3D printer(s) are out of the question for now.

Can someone list off all of the servos needed to build an InMoov with eye movement and wrists? Also, I am sure I will end up using 2 or 3 small car batteries to power him. For the segway base, I think I am going to go with 24 volt motors. It seems like the 12 volt ones are going to be too small and too slow. Yes Richard, I will be using a sabertooth so be ready to answer more questions:)

Merne, Thanks for the printing you are doing for me. It allows me to spend that money of the guts of the robot. I do really appreciate it. Now, to figure out what to do when it starts raining while he is out... Anyone know a supplier of huge trash bags? The cops might not think its too funny when they see me putting a stiff 6 foot body into a car. hmmm.
Lol at the 6 foot body, might help in a HOV lane on the freeway?
Here is a link to the BOM info http://www.inmoov.fr/default-hardware-map/

This is the Inmoov main site http://inmoov.fr There is a lot of information there.
You welcome on the printing, I think it's a good trade for your help on your database.

You might want to see how Richard R's servo's are working out. From his video it seem very good with the type of servos Richard is using and cheaper it sounds Like.

The Segway look alike (dareway) uses casters to balance and it's 29 x 29 inch which is too large for my house and I would rather use Richard R's platform for now. I know there is a guy, do not remember right at the moment, is putting together DIY Segway that is self balancing for around $700.00. I don't know the measurements.

BTY, the torso parts are finished, 7 neck part completed. :)
@d.cochran.... Yeah, whatever you need David.... If you're going with a 24V system then make sure you at least buy the 2 x 12 version of the sabertooth.... It might be overkill but you might want to consider the 2 x 25 instead.... Not knowing what amps your motors will be pulling and the size/weight of your inmoov it might be a safer bet... If you need speed ramping, @Rich has developed a script for that....

@OldBotBuilder so true.... Without robotics I would go nuts with cabin fever... Now that Canada has become the new arctic.... :P What I can't understand is that England sent their marginal citizens to nice warm, beautiful Australia (their penal colony) and sent their model citizens to arctic Canada...Hmmmm... *confused*
hi Richard hey I'm trying to get my Sabertooth running I tried the Sabertooth serial Movement Panel but it defaults to board 0 port 23 I need to use board 2 do you mind sending me the script on my email?
@Merne... Go into my custom movement panel's settings and change the following...
SendSerial(D23,38400,127) #127
SendSerial(D23,38400,128) #128
To this
SendSerial(2.D23,38400,127) #127 #2. added to indicate board 2
SendSerial(2.D23,38400,128) #128 #2. added to indicate board 2

You are adding 2. in front of the port to indicated you want to send this command to board 2

do this for all the other movement commands in the custom Movement Panel and for all commands sent to board 2 in general...
@ Richard
I am presently hacking 2 servos for the Inmoov low stomach.

If I understand clearly, both servos will share one external potentiometer and one control connection on EZB.

My question is:
Since both servos circuitry are sharing one pot, is there a need to increase the pot. value?

Tanks for your help.
@Aerius No, set the pot at 90 with you're inmoov standing straight up... You only need about 70 for the min value and 110 for max value for the range of side to side motion... So all you have to do is run 2 wires from the servo with the control board still in it to the servo with only the motor and gears left in it... In other words just run 2 wires from one motor to the other motor... + to + and - to - parallel...
no you should not have to increase the pots value just make sure to or reverse polarity on one of the motors
Tanks Richard and Merne,

Is this correct?
I have remove the wiring diagram pic. which was not relate to the subject
@Aerius ... Not sure about your diagram... You only need two wires to the second servo... One servo has the control board still inside, the second one has the pot and the electronics removed... solder extra wires from that first servo motor contacts and then solder those wires to the second servo motor (which has the complete control board removed)... Motor to motor contacts...Do not reverse the polarity either... When you test them they should both spin in the same direction... The left and right pistons are different so they will take care of the fact they are spinning in the same direction... they will rotate properly as needed... Remember the second servo is just a motor and gears left in it... no electronics so you just solder the 2 wires to the + and - motor contacts...
@ Richard,
You just made my day. I was just going to throw in garbage a HS-805BB with a defective controler in it.
Tanks for the clarifications.
@Aerius LOL... I did the same thing.... one of my 805bb got damaged some how while I was removing the pot so I just removed all the electronics and used it as the second servo in the waist of my inMoov....
Hey guys, I've just started building the shoulders of my Inmoov and im having some difficultly understanding the motor mods. I can understand why the pot is mounted outside and i see the need for rotation greater than 180 degrees but why the reversed polarity for one shoulder? is this just for the sake of uniform programming of the motor movements or am i missing something bigger here? couldnt i just program it with reversed values? I know its not very difficult to reverse 2 connections but I would hate to implement something i dont even understand. I'm probably just not comprehending the instruction very well so any help would be great.
@WilliamK No, not just for uniform programming... If you don't reverse the wires in the pots of the servos in the right shoulder the gearbox(s) will spin but won't ever stop. This is because the gearbox is moving in the opposite direction the pot needs in order to meet its target angle and stop... Try it you will see what I mean... The arms are mirror images of each other.... To summarize 3 servos in the right shoulder need their pot wires reversed for their gearboxes to rotate the potentiometer in the correct direction... No amount of programming will compensate for this...
Yep, that makes perfect sense. I probably should have trusted the instruction and im sure it would have seemed cleared once the parts were together. I can move forward with a little more confidence now. Big thanks for the help.