I have used black and white RepRapper PLA for the last 2 years in my Makerbot Rep 2 without any problems. Highly recommend it.

Warping with abs is usually due to not enough build plate heat and/or build chamber heat... I have zero warping issues with my UP! Plus 2 printer since I enclosed it, cheap filament or not... ABS needs to cool slowly or it will warp... That's why you need a heated build plate and chamber...

@ANDY ROID What printer do you have?....

RepRap clone I built called a Borlee. With PLA I go along printing well then I make junk. With the same spool, it comes back fine again, using the exact same settings printing the same part. I really think it's the filament.

Regarding ABS,I have a heated bed, and tried covering the machine to keep in the heat. I have tried running the bed as low as 70 and as high as 110 and find the problem never goes away. I have the filament as low as 190 and up to 245. I even mess with the speeds. I would have to get my book to give you those numbers, but I have slowed it to about 75%. I will admit sometimes my tape breaks loose and I get a warp that way, but often I will get a delamination.

I want to have a good brand of filament so I have a good idea of something being constant. Then I can try changing settings.

Ron R

@ bhouston Thanks for the advice.

Ron R

Richard R,

In my R2D2 post is a picture of my printer. Maybe I will make an enclosure like you have done for ABS. I normally just cover it with a fire resistant cloth to keep the heat in. What temperature do you keep the chamber at?

Ron R

You can buy "Smart abs" .... I can get it at Filaments.ca here in Canada (not sure about the US)... I haven't tried it but it claims to be formulated for 90% less warping... It's kind of pricey too.... Smart ABS Filament

Thanks Richard. I will look into it.

I am going to try your suggestion of enclosing the build area. What kind of temperature do you maintain in the build area. I may consider using a heat gun with a thermostat if necessary. We used a similar method when bonding areas on aircraft parts, We would bag the part and heat it with a heat gun and controller to cure it. I think it is overkill, but I really want to make some larger parts out of ABS.

Ron R

Usually you just need to enclose the printer... the nozzle and heated bed keep it nice and toasty...

So just a box around the print area works for you? The heat bed and nozzle give enough heat? I can build that fairly easily. I will give it a try. My cloth idea must have had too many losses.

Thanks,

Ron R

Yep... as long as the box isn't too big (meaning a too large an area to heat efficiently)

Thanks Anthony, I will look in to it. I need to be sure the filament variations go away. Thanks for your You tube post also. Very helpful and informative.

I finally got a good, not great print of the foot for my R2D2. I will resin it for a good finish.

Ron R

Last Update

I went out and bought another piece of glass from Lowes and made up an Acetone ABS slurry. The liquid is the consistency of milk. I applied it twice to a cold heat bed and let it dry. I took an old towel and placed it over the machine to hold in the warmth from the machine when running. I ran some ABS test parts which warped in the past. They came out nice and flat.

I ran a full bed of parts the same way, which was a 22 hour run. They came out great. Thanks to all that helped me with the elimination of a haunting problem.

I plan to take the advice given, when I order my next batch of filament. Sounds like the brands suggested is the way to go.

Ron R