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It is easy, T-connector cable to the battery, the motor cables without connectors, cable and servo to ez-b, of the latter can cut the red wire because it does not need the BEC
The link seems not to work for me, but I assume you mean these:

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And the red wire of BEC can be eliminated:
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yes those are the ones that i have
thank you
OK, I need to ask... What kind of motors are you driving with 300 amps? You making a self driving car? A giant killer robot? The motor on my Toyota Prius is only 351 amps.

United Kingdom
Nope it's 300A according to every web page and datasheet I can find on it.

Forward Current: 300A
Reverse Current: 150A
BEC: 2A Max 5.6V

That's one beast of a controller:)
I agree Rich, is a beast, but I doubt that the specification of 300 amps is real, do not think the cables or printed circuit hold much current, but if you hold 50 amps continuous to me and I think to most robots will simply so the best thing is the price.
I use two engines and truth roomba I disconnected the fan by noise and do unnecessary power consumption
It might be a bit of over kill but better than too small. I am using it for a dagu 4wd chassis. Does anyone have manual of instruction sheet for this.
It is going to be the chassis for my Droid on Guard (dog)
United Kingdom
it may well be 300A but its only DC brushed and it'll be for low voltage. I thought the prius was a 3 phase DC input ESC with a working voltage of 500 or so volts. I looked into it a while back and I specced up a 750V Lipo cell to go through a siemens ESC, that was about the size of a PC tower (bigger than the motor).

A huge 300 amp controller could be for a Ducted fan jet or 1/4 scale RC aircraft. There are brushed and brushless motors that draw lots of current for short periods. I built a electric 11.1 volt avatar heli and it drew 160 amps max full throttle and it only weighted 6 pounds.
does anyone know what setup i need in in EZ-build to use this controller?
thanks will give that a try tomorrow. off to work now