I use Simplify3D as my slicer... It's not free, but hands down better than even makerware... With the default settings for the Flashforge Creator dual my pro printed perfect right from the get go using Simplify3D...

I agree with using Simplify3d. It seems to have helped a lot of people. It was also the first place I looked when looking at which printers to get that were commercially sold.

Its on my "Replace my reprap printer" list of things to pickup.

Alright, here's some feedback. I DID manage to find myself a 3d-printer A Solidoodle 2. I was hoping to find the cash for a Makerbot, but I did not have $3000 to spare. So my very good friend lend me his SD2 to play with indefinitely. Now that I can afford :-)

I've been reading non-stop since a few day, and phew, so much to lurn, but I really enjoy it.

From all the research I've done, I still have questions. If I understand correctly, there are a 5 main components within 3d-printing system: the 3d object (stl file), the host printer program, the slicer, the printer itself (hardware), and the ABS/PLA filament. Example:

• 3d object file: EZ bits, and Inmov ...
• Host program: Repetier (Solidoodle), Makerbit for Makerbot ? ...
• Slicer: Slic3r (Solidoode). Simplify (recommended, but not free) ...
• Printer: Solidoodle, Makerbot... Of course there are so many more hardware and software, but this is just an example.

Questions:

• Given the same 3d object (stl file), which components would be most important for a successfull print, in order of importance ?
• How critical is the slicer ? Why is Simplify so recommended ? I find Slic3R (open source) highly configurable, but can not compare with any other (yet).
• I heard of a modification to the Solidoodle to help curlup layers which consist of enclosing the printer to increase the printing temperature (thread from Josh). But at the same time, I also read another mod to add a small fan near the extruder (thanks again Josh). That would cool the layers as they print, which is just the opposite of the purpose of the enclosure. I am bit lost here.

Again, comments, feedback, answers would be really appreciated.

@Kazobond... you are seriously over thinking this... If Simplify3d supports your printer buy it... You won't regret it... If you don't want to buy it then check and see if Makerware supports your printer and as a second choice use it...

Have you looked at the Flashforge Creator pro (or even Dreamer)? It cost a lot less than a MakerBot but produces outstanding prints... (I have one so I know).... You can use Makerware which is free or buy Simplify3d (I bought it because it basically makes 3d printing on my flashforge a few mouse clicks)...

I would stay clear of the Solidoodle as it doesn't have a good buyer feedback rating... Go on Amazon.com (not ca) and check out 3d printer reviews...

The process you would go through Get an STL file (unless you are going to start modeling your own parts)

You might need to repair the STL file. Simplify3d does this along with a few other apps.

setup a slicer program to be compatible with your printer. Some of them have preconfigured settings (like Simplify3d) that make this process far easier.

Run the STL file through your slicer program to generate .gcode which Simplify3d does.

Send the .gcode to your printer.

Simplify3d has many abilities like resizing the STL and positioning the STL file on the build platform before printing. You can also have your raft layer printed in one material and the object printed in a different material if you have 2 extruders. It also lets you configure each extruder with different settings for different materials. It also handles all of these functions in one program instead of having to use multiple programs. The price tag is well worth it if your printer is one of the supported printers. The software will allow you to see what your printer is going to do and allow you to make decisions such as what supports to keep and which to remove among other things. It shows the print layer by layer so you can see what is going to happen with the print and make changed before printing the item.

A prime example would be the channels in the inmoov hand. These need to be clean and clear of any supports. If you use slic3r, you cant see what these channels are going to look like before printing. With Simplify3d, you can see if its slicer is going to put any supports in those channels and remove them prior to starting the print and waiting 6 hours to find out that you have an issue.

Also, Simplify3d's slicer is very fast. 3d printing is a very time consuming process and speed matters because waisting 12 hours becomes frustrating very quickly. When it happens 4 times in a row, it becomes extremely frustrating to the point that you are looking for a much better solution.

Use the best tool available for the job at hand. Right now, the best tool is Simplify3D and a good printer.

@Richard, Thanks for your feedback. Highly appreciated. I will check and try Makerware. The local Hobbie shop just purchase the Dremel Dreamer (copy of Flashforge), and I am experimenting with them and I do agree with you, it does give outstanding prints. I am very impressed. btw, I gave a demo of my Roli and the kit to the hobbie shop, and they immediately bought Roli, JD, Six, and the kit, plus many extra bits. They are now an official distributor of EZ Robot :-)

The only reason I am currently playing with the Solidoodle is because I did not pay for it. But I might end up realizing that "resistance is futile" and getting the Makerbot after all.

Just be aware the Dremel only prints in PLA because of not having a heated build plate... I prefer abs because of it's superior strength over pla... and the fact it does not degrade and become brittle over time...

LOL.... DJ will be happy about that (hobby shop)...

The logic behind heating it up more is to allow more time for a second layer to be layer down on top of that layer, giving it more strength and prevent bending. I personally haven't had good luck with this.

The logic of adding a fan is to cool the layer more quickly which adds strength. I have had better luck with this approach and it is the one most people go with. It also helps prevent sagging of overhangs without supports.