
robotmaker
USA
Asked
— Edited
i just got my WIFI board in and kinda lazy to check it
i know its 3.3 volts ,gnd tx and rx
i just got my WIFI board in and kinda lazy to check it
i know its 3.3 volts ,gnd tx and rx
i use 3.3 volt LDO,as for all my power supply designs,all most every battery design uses LDO
Also, the only time you need to use separate power is when you exceed the 5 amps on the I/o lines. The I/o is powered by 5 amps, and you can use a simple calculator to figure out how much you're drawing. With a fan, I successfully pull 7-8 amps from my power source.
I do know that WIFI board takes 300ma and thought from what he said that the board has less then 300 ma
i think mostly only SERVO'S need a seperate power supply,i have all my 9 of them version 3
I do see something,on back of the board there is 2 pads one 5 volts and one 3.3 volts
5 volt pad is jumped,so maybe the bluetooth is set at 5 volts.
THAT may be the problem ?
I can check it tonight to see if its 5 volts going to bluetooth board,if you have a meter handy check the voltage at the connector ,if its 5 volts ,cut the trace between the 2 pads of 5 volts
and jump the 2 pads on the 3.3 volts,.make shore you check the pads with a meter after you cut them
from looking at the board it looks like thats only for bluetooth connection or WIFI
Second i am working on the WIFI board to have both WIRED and WIFI since it has PH I/O needed for wired networking
@RobotMaker, you can tell what version of the PCB you have here: http://www.ez-robot.com/Tutorials/Diagnostics.aspx
If the WIFI is connected correctly, there is no reason it should brown out the PCB. Unless the connections are shorted, or the wifi module is drawing more than 3 amps
I see you added on version v3.1b much better heatsinks
what WIFI board are you using,i have USR-WIFI232-B
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